Warrumbungles

Introduction

Far out west lie the Warrumbungles, a series of ancient eroded volcanic towers rising out of the dry scrubby plains. Here you will find climbing on some of the biggest faces in Australia. The four major features - Belougery Spire, Crater Bluff, Bluff Mountain and Tonduron Spire - are impressive peaks which have inspired climbers for generations. Climbing in the Bungles is a fairly serious affair however, with occassional poor rock, poor protection, difficult route finding and long climbs all part of the game. The popular lines on Belougery Spire, Crater Bluff and Bluff Mountain get regular ascents, but the remaining routes in this guide might have seen little or no traffic. This does not necessarily mean they are not quality routes, however. Explore and tell us what you find.

Access

BUSHFIRE UPDATE: The Warrumbungle National Park was extensively burnt in January 2013 and as of June is still largely closed. Amazingly Balor Hut survived the bushfire. Climbers are required to register by filling out an intention sheet at the Rangers Office. For access to the crags which fall outside of the National Park, contact the Coonabarabran Bushwalking Club to arrange access.

Camping

There is extensive car-based camping at Camp Blackman with luxurious showers and amenities (destroyed 2013). There are other designated camping sites marked on the standard maps. Check with the Rangers Office for bookings. Climbers often camp or stay at Balor Hut, as it provides convenient early morning starts to the nearby peaks. The hut itself is filthy inside and barely worth the effort of arranging a booking. There is a water tank here. Access is via a 1 hour knee-destroying slog up the "yellow brick road".