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Has five of the best short routes in the 'Bungles. The climbs are ordered from south to north. A relatively easy alternative to the Breadknife.
| * | Sabre | 16 | 78m | ||
| A very clean wall with excellent protection. Start: Slight broken buttress about 18m left of the scramble down. 1. 18m. Directly to bollard. 2. 27m. Directly to jumbled rock belay - good stance. 3. 33m (crux). Leftward to the weakness - 'A series of broken cracks' leading to gap - Strenuous. | |||||
| John Ewbank/John Worrall, Dec. 1966. | |||||
| * | Rapier | 19 | 81m | ||
| Good line and rock with an airy crux. Not as well protected as Sabre but adequate. START: 12m left of Sabre, cairn. Directly below a large corner at top of cliff. 1. 21m. Directly on quite easy rock. Small stance and peg. 2. 24m. To steeper brown rock - small ledge and peg. 3. 15m. Below a small niche of yellow rock with a hand jam crack in roof. 4. 36m (crux). Up and slightly right (technical), then directly to niche. Left for 4m, under bulging yellow wall, rounded holds. Up wall, surmount small bulge, to corner. Up corner to top. | |||||
| John Ewbank/John Worrall, Dec. 1966 | |||||
| * * | Stiletto | 18M2 | 90m | ||
| Impetuous. A daring long line up the most forbidding section of the face. START: 9m right of Cutlass below a short steep left sloping ramp. 1. 33m. From top of ramp move back right then up steep rock to small overhang at 18m. Turn this on left then up lichenous rock to large blocks and small stance. 2. 27m. Up the blocks then on the wall, peg. Right, then up light coloured wall to small ledge. Left, then up on yellow mooth rock to ledge. Poor peg. Diagonally left 4m to bolt. Small stance. 3. 30m (crux). Up right of bolt to small roof (2 aid nuts). Two bolts lead up and right, then a free move to place poor peg, hen cracker, to another bolt. Free right to juggy wall. Up, strenuous, then mantleshelf to resting place and poor peg. More delicately on pleasant black rock to summit. | |||||
| John Ewbank/Alec Campbell, Feb. 1967 | |||||
| Cutlass | 18 | 87m | |||
| Technical and very strenuous climbing on very steep rock. START: 9m right of the start of Minor Route below a steep wall. Cairn. 1. 33m. Slight rib for 9m on very slick rock.. Left at slight overlap, then quite directly up, trending right at 21m to small stance and a large bollard. 2. 18m. Left 4m then straight up. Easy rock to recess from where wall steepens. Small stance. 3. 30m (crux). Diagonally left for 4m. Good black rock. Up a little then back right until above belayer. Move up, poor peg and a couple of hard moves to next peg. 4. 4m. to easier rock then right to final groove. | |||||
| John Ewbank/Alec Campbell, Feb. 1967 | |||||
| Toast and Jam | 14 | 30m | |||
| Pleasant, being the only crack on the east side of the peak. Start: At the south end of the face, not far from the water tank. Up the crack directly. | |||||
| Ross Vining, Bill Blunt, Al Ross, 1973 | |||||