Wedderburn Cave


Just above the bank of Georges River, The Wedderburn Cave boasts some of the longest roof climbs in the Sydney area. Most of the bouldering is steep technical roof climbing with exciting top outs and is not a recommended area for people relatively new to climbing. The crag gets a little bit of sun during the afternoon and stays dry in wet weather, however all the top outs will be wet until the sun comes out.


Approximately 1km after the small bridge where the road straightens out, park on the left side of Wedderburn Rd, next to a black tree stump protruding a meter or so out of the ground. Cross the road where you see a black tree with two large even sized trunks and head straight into the bush following an old barbed wire fence towards the river. Step over the fence where it breaks down laying over a flat rock, you should see an obvious path veering off to the left. Follow it down till you reach the rock line. There will be a number of rock piles along the track leading down to the rock line to help guide you to the gully where you need to scramble down. Continue to follow the rock piles further down into the bush, over a large tree trunk until you reach the cave.

* * Baby Bonus V8 (SDS)
Start matched on the round hold about a metre and a half towards the back of the cave. Burly moves directly out of the cave to gain a huge jug, then mantel.
Project 1 (SDS)
Start 2 metres right of Baby Bonus. Head directly out to lip.
* * * Anger Management V11 (SDS)
Start matched on jug at far right of cave. Traverse left 1 metre on crimps to slopey crack line. Follow crack all the way out of the cave. Traverse right across face before exciting top out.
* * Persistence V12 (SDS)
Start as for Anger Management. Follow right side of holds to big move to crimpy blob feature and a good jug rest. Head back into Anger Management, along the crack line until a metre before the flared opening. Head directly out towards front of cave via large jug and sharp underclings. Finish as for Anger Management.
* Centrelink Sponsorship V10 (SDS)
Start as for Persistence. Follow right side of holds for ~2 metres towards outside of cave to deep two finger pocket. Move towards lower right side of cave where soil has been removed. Climb the far right side of cave to finish on start hold of Major Lightweight.
Project 2 (SDS)
Start as for Centrelink Sponsorship and follow that problem to just past deep two finger pocket. Continue the direct line leading to large bucket. Big move to end of Centrelink Sponsorship and top out as for Major Lightweight.
* * Major Lightweight V10
Start matched on the large block. Huge moves to a pocket and some bad crimpy side-pulls. Straight up the face to scary mantle top out.