Trendies Corner
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Sea cliff
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Introduction
A continuation of the Rosa Gully cliffline, the cliffs start getting pretty big around here. Access is a bit more involved than most of the other crags in this guide - most require some pretty big abseils, and start from hanging belays or small stances. Definitely an area for experienced climbers only.
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Access
I checked out the top access for the following climbs in 2001 and had a great deal of difficulty getting near the edge of the cliff. There's a small swamp / bush regeneration area in front of the Macquarie Lighthouse that has almost completely engulfed the lighthouse fence. The top 15m of the cliff is also heavily overgrown with steep, thick vegetation, making it extremely difficult and dangerous to get near the edge of the cliff unroped. Julian Anderson recently informed me that he checked out the routes on the slab (Hey Sucker and Bladder Control) in about 1997, and at that stage the bolts were in such bad condition that he could remove them by hand. Take care! Cliffs described left to right (south to north), facing the cliff.
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About 500m north of Rosa Gully is a big wall with a corner. The following climb is accessed by walking north from Rosa Gully along the walk around ledge.
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Housemaid's Knees
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26
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75m
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A difficult and dangerous route - exceptionally loose and run out.
1. 30m (19) Up the arete right of the corner.
2. 15m (24) Layback the loose flake (fear) to a manky BB.
3. 20m (26) Crawl left (scared witless) past a manky BR and then head up until you reach a corroded BB.
4. 10m Head up to top of cliff.
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Giles Bradbury, Mike Law 1980s
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On a recent visit I was unable to find the rap anchor for this climb - the top of the cliff is ridiculously overgrown around here. Park 150m south of the Macquarie lighthouse (at Christison Park), cross the playing fields and leap the fence. A rap anchor is perched on the brink (directly above the climb) and a 90m single pitch abseil leads to the base.
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Quintin's Climb
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25
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100m
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Sustained and exposed. Previously known as Trendies Corner.
1. 20m (19) Head up the corner to a big ledge. Walk right along this until below BR.
2. 20m (21) Straight up wall (manky BR) and flake. Step right to belay (manky BBs).
3. 15m (21) Straight up corner to BBs.
4. 18m (25) Up and left to traverse line. Follow this left (dodgy BRs) to corner. Follow this to the next belay (weathered BBs).
5. 12m (25) Traverse left (manky BRs) and up to belay (weathered BBs).
6. 15m (21) Follow corners then step right to arete and up. Veer slightly right to the rap station.
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Mike Law 1980s
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To get to the following four climbs, park at Christison Park near the Macquarie lighthouse (about 150m north of the previous climb). For the first two climbs, walk along the fence dividing Christison Park from the lighthouse grounds to the cliff top walking track. Cross the track and head slightly south around the swamp until you reach the cliff top fence. Follow this down into the swamp until you see the continuation of the original fence heading out towards the ocean. Rap 40m off the last post on the fence (looks dodgy!) to a semi-hanging belay with 3 BBs (almost certainly manky).
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La Technique
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22
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35m
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Abseil into a semi-hanging belay.
1. 23m (22) Head straight up slab (BR), through overhang (BRs) and on up (BRs) to belay (BB and cams).
2. 12m (22) Traverse right to arete (BR) then veer left towards the rap station.
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Mike Law 1980s
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O/S
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23
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35m
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Start as for LT. Undercling traverse right (exposure!) to arete. Follow this to top (BRs), veering left at the top as for LT P2.
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Mike Law 1980s
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To get to the following two climbs, find a triple BB rap station about 15m north of the LT and O/S rap station (could not be located). A 35m rap leaves you at a hanging belay from two abysmal BBs which have probably fallen out. Take care (and ascenders)!
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Hey Sucker
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21
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35m
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Paul's birthday present. Abseil into a hanging belay.
1. 28m (18) Wander up slab then traverse right to the arete. Follow this (BRs) then head easily left to a ledge. Climb up abseil rope, or
2. 7m (21) From a manky BB, head straight up to the rap station.
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Paul Colyvan 1980s
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Bladder Control
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21
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25m
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Head up to first BR on HS, then traverse right to crack (BRs). Follow this then continue up slabs and over a bulge to the rap station.
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Mike Law 1980s
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