Tonduron Spire


An impressive and major dome.


First ascents were made by local farmers somewhere between West Ridge and Southern Gully. In October 1932 farmer Mclntyre took Dr. and Eleanor Dark as well as Eric Lowe and Osmar White 'around to the south arete to see if they could really climb'.


The usual access is via Gunneemooroo campsite in the south part of the park, which is approached by road from Tooraweenah, off the highway between Gilgandra and Coonabarabran. The easiest descent can be made via various ramps and slabs to the west of the prominent south arete.

* South Arete 12 165m
'The gayest and most light-hearted climb I can remember' - Dr. Dark. START: There are at least three possible starts. 1-2. 90m. Scramble up slabs and grassy ledges. 3. 15m. Around bIock, layback left or exposed moves to right. 4. 60m. Easy scrambling.
Dr. Dark/Mclntyre/Lowe/White, Oct' 1932
Southern Gully 8 150m
The obvious gully on the scrubby south side which joins the west ridge slightly below the top. Generally soloed.
Dr. Dark, about 1935
West Ridge 11 160m
START: Below some slabs slightly right of where the 'west-col' leads up to join the crag itself. Difficulty would appear to depend on the line taken-there's plenty of room for improvement.!!
FA Unknown
* North-west Groove 15 150m
Start at crack-groove on NW side, just off track to WR. 1-5. Crack, past bushy ledge to corner and overhang.
Bryden Allen, Warwick Williams (alt) Easter 1975
Antares 19 155m
Sustained climb on good rock. Original point of aid (19,M1) at top of pitch one has presumably been eliminated by Keith Bell. Start 50 m R of Northern Groove. 1. 15m. Crack through bulge, then R to thread belay at foot of groove leading to roof. 2. 35m. Groove, then fine crack on L. Round blunt arete, then slab to roof. Follow roof L to base of groove. 3. 35m. Groove past ledge, then up R to stance below corner. 4. 30m. Slab R of corner, then up L above corner to sloping ledge. 5. 40m. Slab on L, then through crack in bulge to big ledge. Scramble up.
Keith Bell, lan Thomas 1974
Antares Direct Start 21 35m
Start 5 m L of Antares at twin grooves. Follow discontinuous R-hand groove/crack, then L to gully at top of L-hand groove. Up this to base of groove through Antares roof.
Keith Bell, John Fantini 28-12-67
* Northern Groove 18 150m
''A huge corner punctuated by overhangs'' -Noddy. The easiest yet more impressive line of the north faces. Not so flaming fantastic as a route!!
Bryden Allen/John Davis, about 1963
Rocket Ride 15 40m
Tackles semi-detached pinnacle called North Face Spire. Start 10m R of A Little Rainbow. 1. 20m. Chimney formed by large and small spire. 2. 20m. Chimney formed by large spire and main face. PB; abseil off.
Ian Thomas, Keith Bell (alt) 1974

There is possibly a mini spire still further right that has not yet been climbed.

* * A Little Rainbow 19 150m
A beautifully sound, steep and uncompromising route on rich chocolate brown rock. Classic. START: Five metres left of North Face Spire. 1. 42m. Up wide crack to a small stance. 2. 38m. Four metres up then step left onto the face, up a few moves then back into the corner. Follow this until the line swings left and stops. Traverse right to a good little stance. 3. 36m. Up the corner and swing right onto the face. 4. Step up then traverse right across two cracks and a rib. Climb the crack until it ends then move back into the corner. Up this to chockstone. 5. 34m (crux). Straight up until the line terminates in an overhang. Step right around an arete and up to belay. Scramble off right.
Keith Lockwood/Ray Lassman, Sep' 1973
Starlight Express 22M3 235m
A beautiful route venturing through some steep and hostile territory. Start half-way between Virago and LR at prominent straight groove/crack heading for overhanging pitch. 1. 30m. Scramble up slabs to large blocks R of corner-crack. 2. 45m. Corner-crack to just below small overlap (some poor rock). 3. 15m. Corner crack to shattered blocks below roof. 4. 20m. Free to start of crack, then aid (pitons-come in place: knife-blades, small angles) as crack dies and leans R. L over roof, SHB (wires) on lip. 5. 40m. Flakes to ledge below and L of end of flake. L along ledge, then slab up L to HB in crack. 6. 40m. Crack until it leans L, then slab to ledge. 7. 45m. Large boulder, then crack to easier ground.
John Fantini, Keith Bell (alt) 27-12-87
Virago 20 205m
Start at small L corner below yellow roofs. 1. 20m. Corner, then slab to stance. 2. 25m. L, then slab. Move R, then wall tending L to poor belay. 3. 12m. Slab. 4. 30m. Groove to top of flake, then wall to stance. 5. 20m. L, then groove. 6. 20m. L, then crack. 7. 18m. Crack to ledge. 8. 30m. Crack, then R to another crack. Up to ledge. 9. 30m. Up R groove to easy ground. Scramble up.
Greg Mortimer, Keith Bell (alt) 9-5-74
Saratoga 17 180m
Referred to, but not described, in 76 guide as 'Walpurgis'. Start in groove 10 m L of Virago. 1. 30m. Groove to ledge. 2. 25m. Up continuation through roof to ledge. Belay on L. 3. 25m. Crack, then L to flake. Flake to horizontal break, then R to stance. 4. 20m. L, then crack. 5. 30m. Ramp on L past flakes, then wall and slab to base of small pulpit. 6. 25m. Wall, then R through break. Up to base of groove. 7. 25m. Up groove on R.
Keith Bell, Greg Mortimer (alt) 8-5-74
Chimney Freak 17 80m
A beautiful exercise in squirming on granite. START: Slabs 60m right of base of South Arete. Fig tree in crack. You quickly disappear but the route finding is obvious. Crux is a swing at half height. Chimney opens to ridge.
Joe Friend, solo. Sept' 1976