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1 hour |
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Faces east |
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IntroductionThis cliff is an extension of the Old Baldy cliffs past Sunny Corner, and can be seen across the gully from Petrie's. |
HistoryJoe Friend recorded a solo ascent in 1977. No-one has located the climb or visited the cliff since. |
CampingLittle Capertee |
| Zoroaster | 16 | 75m | |||
| Start 50m L of the exit pools in the historic timberchute gully (this also provides an easy descent from the top with water in the pools all year round). Start in an almost incipient corner. 1. 12m. Up to blocks on the L atop of corner. 2. 25m. Continue through to slab and up juggy wall on the L of partial layback crack. Belay below cave on R. 3. 30m. Turn roof on R then straight up easily to obvious jamb crack. 4. 18m. A couple of layback blocks lead to the top. | |||||
| Joe Friend (solo) 12-2-1977 | |||||
| * | Sandinma | 19 | 60m | ||
| Access: From Lower Baldy, cross 'solo gully' (refer to Wolgan Valley guidebook) when you get to the large amphitheatre, and follow the cliff line (dubbed 'Timber Chute Walls' by Joe Friend) for a few hundred metres. The climb starts 10m right of a chockstone archway at the base of the cliff, approximately 100m before the end of the cliff line and Timber Chute Gully. P1 - 20m (13): Follow right leading crack up to corner, continue up corner to ledge with tree. P2 - 30m (19**): Climb corner/layback crack to change in angle, continue up and left (crux). Continue up and right to belay. P3 - 20m (16): Move belay along easy ledge approx 10m to tree beneath slab. Climb slab (runout) to break, traverse to open corner, follow to top. Descent: A sling was left approx 30m climbers right along the top of the cliff from where the climb finishes. Double 60m ropes will get you to the ground. This rap route appears to follow some of Joe Friends solo route Zoroaster from 1977. | |||||
| M. Arrell, L. Jackson, N. Zwaneveld 28-04-12 | |||||