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Crag faces east |
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Bouldering |
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IntroductionAn excellent bouldering area located in the bushland east of the F1. |
HistoryOriginally discovered by Gavin Portier and David James in 1996, but it was dismissed as another "almost crag". Revisitted again in winter 1997 and suddenly some lines had appeared. They thought it would be good for some easy high-ball problems and maybe the odd 5 or 6. They soon discovered they were wrong with problems ranging from V0 to V9 being added, with harder lines yet to come. |
AccessHead north on the F1 towards Newcastle. Take the Berowra exit ramp, and at the top of the ramp turn right and go around the big loop (so you end up heading back south on the F1). A couple of hundred metres down the freeway is a small dirt track on the left (just before the second small cutting). Park here. If stopping on the freeway sounds freaky, you could probably just park at the layaway in the middle of the big loop and walk the 500m. Follow the track east for about 1km, trending left at every track junction. Eventually you will reach a collection of boulders and buttresses. There are also some slabby bits of rock further to the north. |
| Three Slap Arete | V6 | ||||
| Sit-start. Grab crimp and pocket on arete and work your way up. | |||||
| Unnamed 1 | V0 | ||||
| Sit-start on jugs and go up. | |||||
| Unnamed 2 | V5 | ||||
| Sit-start on sloping edge and crimp at lip of roof with feet underneath. | |||||
| Silly Hands Free | V0 | ||||
| Good for balance and laugh. | |||||
| La Dalle Pour Moi | V1 | ||||
| Gaston RH and sidepull LH, high step to high side pull then top. | |||||
| Project 3 | |||||
| Possibly been done by now? | |||||
| Crack line | V0 | ||||
| Fun if you're in to that sort of thing. | |||||
| Slab 1 | V2 | ||||
| 1m left of arete. Up to good stance then long move to big jug on top. | |||||
| Slab 2 | V2 | ||||
| Start on obvious slot, up to good stance then jump to glory. | |||||
| Slab 3 | V3 | ||||
| Scary. Same as above but jump even higher. V3 for the scare factor. | |||||
| Toby's Problem | V4 | ||||
| Sit-start under arete, right to scoop then top. | |||||
| The Sweetest Thing (aka Avulsion) | V9 | ||||
| Sit-start, LH on 2 finger pocket, RH on edge, slap to top and keep slapping up and over. | |||||
| Unnamed 4 | V4 | ||||
| Sit-start right of The Sweetest Thing in flake, straight up and beack left for the same finishing mantle. | |||||
| Project 5 | |||||
| Beserka | V8 | ||||
| Sit-start. Follow holds up bulging arete to finish under the high bulge. | |||||
| New Map of Tassie Project | |||||
| Unnamed 6 | V4 | ||||
| Sit-start. Straight up wall. | |||||
| Unnamed 7 | V2 | ||||
| Straight up wall. | |||||
| Unnamed 8 | V6 | ||||
| Sit-start. Straight up wall. | |||||
| Unnamed 9 | V6 | ||||
| Variant Start to previous problem. Traverse left from underclings. | |||||
| Mantle Madness | V0 | ||||
| Sit-start. Not a consumer classic. | |||||
| Big Ben | V0 | ||||
| Straight up to summit. | |||||
| Unnamed 10 | V0 | ||||
| Straight up wall. | |||||
| Unnamed 11 | V2 | ||||
| Straight up wall. | |||||
| Unnamed 12 | V0 | ||||
| Straight up wall. | |||||
| Unnamed 13 | V0 | ||||
| Straight up wall. | |||||
| Heel-toe | V1 | ||||
| Sit-start, and slide, slide, slide ... LH side pull and match near with RH. Out to sloping pinch with RH then to big jug at lip. Finish standing on the big jug at the lip of the roof. | |||||
| Unnamed | V5 | ||||
| Sit-start in-between [A] and [C], joins [C] at slopy pinch as a LH gaston then finish as per [C]. | |||||
| L'Araignee Dans Le Plafond | V4 | ||||
| Sit-start. Tiny undercling at right end of cave and sloper RH. Out through roof to big jug then finish as per [A]. | |||||
| Unnamed 14 | |||||
| Has been done. | |||||
| Unnamed 15 | |||||
| Has been done. | |||||