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IntroductionShort sandstone walls with easy access and quality bolting. Some fun routes worth a visit or two. |
AccessDrive to the end of Schofield Pde, Pennant Hills. Park near sign, walk through gate for 100m till a track on the left. Follow this for approximately 200m till it heads right towards the oval. Instead of heading right go more or less straight ahead for 50m and there is a rock cairn (?). Turn left and head through scrub to top of little rocky section. Zig down this section and scramble to the bottom of some rocks. Follow the rock along until it gets to about 3m in height. Look left and there are two smooth gum trees in a small break. Head down this and you come out onto Cave Wall. There are numerous other ways of getting here this just seems to be the easist. For Otherland, instead of turning down the intial track follow the fire trail past the oval and down the hill. About 300-400 metres past the oval, turn left on a faint track to gain the top of the cliff. Access is easiest down the left side (facing the cliff). Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff. |
Chicken Stuffing | 14 | 8m | |||
Start in access gully. Straight up featured wall. Walk off. | |||||
Unknown 2007 |
* | Jazz Maverick | 27 | 10m | ||
The steep proud line. Punchy climbing through nice rock. | |||||
Pat Reynolds, 13-12-2007 |
* * | Mufasta | 18 | 10m | ||
Up to sharp arete tending left at top. | |||||
Andrew Morrison, Stephen Hawkshaw 2002-09 |
* | Bluntman | 20 | 8m | ||
Just right of the wide corner. A balancy start to a pumpy finish up the left feature. | |||||
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-10 |
* | Chronic | 19 | 10m | ||
Straight up the overhanging arete. 1 FH, 2 U bolts to lower off. | |||||
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-08 |
* | Carrots are Vegetables | 16 | 8m | ||
Obvious corner crack at left end of wall. Enjoyable jamming up the crack then move right to avoid the dirty exit. | |||||
Greg Hislop, Kylie Barrett 2006-10 |
The Player of Games | 15 | 9m | |||
4m R of CAV. Up juggy face tending left. | |||||
Rod Wills, 24-12-2007 |
Clipz | 14 | 10m | |||
Start as for TPOG, tending R at first bolt. Up short orange face to jugs. | |||||
Kevin Van Tilburg, 24-12-2007 |
Suspect Zero | 18 | 11m | |||
Up slab onto orange face topping out over the buldge. | |||||
Rod Wills 2005-05 |
* | Yoink | 14 | 10m | ||
A good climb up the prominent flake in middle of wall. | |||||
Andrew Morrison, Stephen Hawkshaw 2002-10 |
* | Yerba | 19 | 10m | ||
The direct start to Y. Hard fun moves up to meet Y at 2nd bolt. | |||||
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-10 |
* | Bunsen Honeydew | 18 | 8m | ||
Easy moves on pockets leads to a big move past bolt to break. Finish up wall. | |||||
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-10 |
Blabbering Fool | 23 | 10m | |||
Start 1m R of Bunsen Honeydew. Up nice arĂȘte. A little contrived, so try and avoid BH and the tree, otherwise take off 4 grades | |||||
Tim Mayer 8-7-2017 |
Disassociative Fugue | 18 | 10m | |||
Step up onto boulder in middle of wall and follow line of rings to the top. | |||||
Mark Page 2005-05 |
* | Psychopath | 24 | 10m | ||
Start 3m R of DF at hard bouldery moves. Nice jump move, then traverse up and L passing 3 RBs. | |||||
Tim Mayer 24-6-17 |
Project Tim Mayer | 10m | ||||
As for Psychopath for the first 2 RBs, then break out R passing another on some nice bouldery moves. | |||||
Constant State of Confusion | 24 | 10m | |||
Thin crimpy slabby goodness. Head up slab to thin move above scoop. | |||||
Stephen Hawkshaw 2003-03 |
Unknown Left | 21 | 10m | |||
3m right of CSoC. Up over bulge to slab. | |||||
Unknown |
Unknown Right | 21 | 10m | |||
Start as for UL. Up over bulge following arete to finish on shared lower offs. | |||||
Unknown |
* | So Far So Good | 21 | 10m | ||
Straight up pockets tending left at final bolt and thin move. | |||||
Stephen Hawkshaw 2002-08 |
Forty Lashes | 17 | 8m | |||
2m R of SGSH. Follow pockets behind tree. | |||||
Kevin van Tilburg, 2-12-2007 |
Mohammeds Teddy Bear | 17 | 8m | |||
2m R of FL. Straight up juggy face tending left at the top. | |||||
Rod Wills 2-12-2007 |
* | Toetality | 21 | 8m | ||
Up and out through roof of cave. Clip 2nd RB before heading to lip to avoid a grounder. | |||||
Andrew Morrison, Stephen Hawkshaw 2003-03 |
What the Hell is a Centograph | 3 | 6m | |||
The access route at the left hand end of the crag. | |||||
Josh Caple (solo), Feb 2004 |
* | Home Made Gonad Guilliotine | 21 | 10m | ||
Starts below arete on right side of cave. | |||||
Josh Caple, Jun 2005 |
* | Enough is Not Enough | 18 | 10m | ||
2m R of HMGG. Start in cave, then up and over to lower offs on HMGG. | |||||
Rod Wills, Aug 2005 |
* | It's all Chips and Gravy | 19 | 10m | ||
2m right of EiNE. Start up over bulge to slab. | |||||
Rod Wills, Jul 2005 |
Shoulder Barge | 19 | 10m | |||
2m R of IaCaG. | |||||
Rod Wills, Jun 2006 |
Shannon's Scooter Sortie | 20 | 10m | |||
5m R of SB. Hard start. | |||||
Vanessa Wills, Jun 2006 |
* | The Hand that Feeds | 17 | 10m | ||
2m R of SSS. Hard start to easy finish. | |||||
Rod Wills, Jul 2005 |
* | Sith Lord | 15 | 10m | ||
Over bulge up orange wall past obvious scoop. | |||||
Rod Wills, May 2005 |
* | Cop That Kev | 19 | 9m | ||
2m R of SL. Up middle of wall following orange streak, | |||||
Rod Wills, May 2005 |
I Don't Like Mondays | 21 | 8m | |||
3m right of CTK. Straight up thin face. | |||||
Jason Lammers, Jul 2006 |
* | Continuum Transfunctioner | 18 | 8m | ||
An obvious face climb with one bigish move. | |||||
Josh Caple, Feb 2004 |
* | Transfunctioner Straightonem | 18 | 9m | ||
Start as for CT. Follow line of bolts right after 1st RB to finish at lower offs on BMtS. | |||||
Rod Wills, May 2005 |
* | Blood Marks the Spot | 20 | 10m | ||
2m R of TS. Up thin face to juggy bulge. | |||||
Mark Page. May 2005 |
* | C U Next Tuesday | 20 | 10m | ||
Start as for BMtS. Up to first bolt on BMtS then tend left past second RBs on both CT & TS finishing at the anchors on the project. | |||||
Jason Lammers, Rod Wills, May 2005 |
* | Interstellar Jumpsuit | 19 | 10m | ||
3m R of BMtS. Up over bulge to slab moving right to lower offs after 3rd RB. | |||||
Josh Caple (solo), Jun 2005 |
Black Hmong Corn Cobs | 14 | 8m | |||
Crack at the far end of the crag. | |||||
Josh Caple, Feb 2004 |