The Stables

5 mins

Crags face generally west


Short sandstone walls with easy access and quality bolting. Some fun routes worth a visit or two.


Drive to the end of Schofield Pde, Pennant Hills. Park near sign, walk through gate for 100m till a track on the left. Follow this for approximately 200m till it heads right towards the oval. Instead of heading right go more or less straight ahead for 50m and there is a rock cairn (?). Turn left and head through scrub to top of little rocky section. Zig down this section and scramble to the bottom of some rocks. Follow the rock along until it gets to about 3m in height. Look left and there are two smooth gum trees in a small break. Head down this and you come out onto Cave Wall. There are numerous other ways of getting here this just seems to be the easist. For Otherland, instead of turning down the intial track follow the fire trail past the oval and down the hill. About 300-400 metres past the oval, turn left on a faint track to gain the top of the cliff. Access is easiest down the left side (facing the cliff). Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.

The Stables

Cave Wall

Chicken Stuffing 14 8m
Start in access gully. Straight up featured wall. Walk off.
Unknown 2007
* Jazz Maverick 27 10m
The steep proud line. Punchy climbing through nice rock.
Pat Reynolds, 13-12-2007
* * Mufasta 18 10m
Up to sharp arete tending left at top.
Andrew Morrison, Stephen Hawkshaw 2002-09
* Bluntman 20 8m
Just right of the wide corner. A balancy start to a pumpy finish up the left feature.
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-10
* Chronic 19 10m
Straight up the overhanging arete. 1 FH, 2 U bolts to lower off.
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-08

Storm Wall

* Carrots are Vegetables 16 8m
Obvious corner crack at left end of wall. Enjoyable jamming up the crack then move right to avoid the dirty exit.
Greg Hislop, Kylie Barrett 2006-10
The Player of Games 15 9m
4m R of CAV. Up juggy face tending left.
Rod Wills, 24-12-2007
Clipz 14 10m
Start as for TPOG, tending R at first bolt. Up short orange face to jugs.
Kevin Van Tilburg, 24-12-2007
Suspect Zero 18 11m
Up slab onto orange face topping out over the buldge.
Rod Wills 2005-05
* Yoink 14 10m
A good climb up the prominent flake in middle of wall.
Andrew Morrison, Stephen Hawkshaw 2002-10
* Yerba 19 10m
The direct start to Y. Hard fun moves up to meet Y at 2nd bolt.
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-10
* Bunsen Honeydew 18 8m
Easy moves on pockets leads to a big move past bolt to break. Finish up wall.
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Morrison 2002-10
Blabbering Fool 23 10m
Start 1m R of Bunsen Honeydew. Up nice arĂȘte. A little contrived, so try and avoid BH and the tree, otherwise take off 4 grades
Tim Mayer 8-7-2017

Finger Pump Face

Disassociative Fugue 18 10m
Step up onto boulder in middle of wall and follow line of rings to the top.
Mark Page 2005-05
* Psychopath 24 10m
Start 3m R of DF at hard bouldery moves. Nice jump move, then traverse up and L passing 3 RBs.
Tim Mayer 24-6-17
Project Tim Mayer 10m
As for Psychopath for the first 2 RBs, then break out R passing another on some nice bouldery moves.
Constant State of Confusion 24 10m
Thin crimpy slabby goodness. Head up slab to thin move above scoop.
Stephen Hawkshaw 2003-03
Unknown Left 21 10m
3m right of CSoC. Up over bulge to slab.
Unknown Right 21 10m
Start as for UL. Up over bulge following arete to finish on shared lower offs.

Corrosion Wall

* So Far So Good 21 10m
Straight up pockets tending left at final bolt and thin move.
Stephen Hawkshaw 2002-08
Forty Lashes 17 8m
2m R of SGSH. Follow pockets behind tree.
Kevin van Tilburg, 2-12-2007
Mohammeds Teddy Bear 17 8m
2m R of FL. Straight up juggy face tending left at the top.
Rod Wills 2-12-2007

The Cult Cave

* Toetality 21 8m
Up and out through roof of cave. Clip 2nd RB before heading to lip to avoid a grounder.
Andrew Morrison, Stephen Hawkshaw 2003-03

The Otherland

What the Hell is a Centograph 3 6m
The access route at the left hand end of the crag.
Josh Caple (solo), Feb 2004
* Home Made Gonad Guilliotine 21 10m
Starts below arete on right side of cave.
Josh Caple, Jun 2005
* Enough is Not Enough 18 10m
2m R of HMGG. Start in cave, then up and over to lower offs on HMGG.
Rod Wills, Aug 2005
* It's all Chips and Gravy 19 10m
2m right of EiNE. Start up over bulge to slab.
Rod Wills, Jul 2005
Shoulder Barge 19 10m
2m R of IaCaG.
Rod Wills, Jun 2006
Shannon's Scooter Sortie 20 10m
5m R of SB. Hard start.
Vanessa Wills, Jun 2006
* The Hand that Feeds 17 10m
2m R of SSS. Hard start to easy finish.
Rod Wills, Jul 2005
* Sith Lord 15 10m
Over bulge up orange wall past obvious scoop.
Rod Wills, May 2005
* Cop That Kev 19 9m
2m R of SL. Up middle of wall following orange streak,
Rod Wills, May 2005
I Don't Like Mondays 21 8m
3m right of CTK. Straight up thin face.
Jason Lammers, Jul 2006
* Continuum Transfunctioner 18 8m
An obvious face climb with one bigish move.
Josh Caple, Feb 2004
* Transfunctioner Straightonem 18 9m
Start as for CT. Follow line of bolts right after 1st RB to finish at lower offs on BMtS.
Rod Wills, May 2005
* Blood Marks the Spot 20 10m
2m R of TS. Up thin face to juggy bulge.
Mark Page. May 2005
* C U Next Tuesday 20 10m
Start as for BMtS. Up to first bolt on BMtS then tend left past second RBs on both CT & TS finishing at the anchors on the project.
Jason Lammers, Rod Wills, May 2005
* Interstellar Jumpsuit 19 10m
3m R of BMtS. Up over bulge to slab moving right to lower offs after 3rd RB.
Josh Caple (solo), Jun 2005
Black Hmong Corn Cobs 14 8m
Crack at the far end of the crag.
Josh Caple, Feb 2004