The Point

30 minutes up

Crag faces north


When standing in the Capertee Campground, this is the obvious cliffline above on the promontory on the south side of the river, opposite the pub, before the cliff line turns south. A huge landslide scar is visible. The main climbing area is to the right of the landslide and vegetated gully. There are two old climbs to the left of the scar.


This crag was previously referred to as "The Landslide Area" in Andrew Penney's 1984 guide.


The orange vertical stripe on the left hand side of the cliff is a good clue for locating the main wall. Cross the river at the ford near the pub, turn left and continue 40m along the road until you find a small cairn marking a trail up the hill. The track is currently marked with white paint markers. (This is the same track for Desperado Walls.) Continue up the steep hillside for 20 minutes, until you meet a large downwards-sloping bulbous gum tree. From here, swing left facing the short cliff band and follow a high pad, keeping left until you have to squeeze through a short boulder. Continue leftwards until you reach the main wall. You should see a karabiner about 12 metres up, below a large black diagonal flake system. Descent is via the walking track from above.

Left Side

The following two old climbs are left of the landslide.

Electric Kool-Aid 15 61m
Start in the large right facing corner 30m to the left of the landslide scar. Can be identified by short twin parallel cracks on the left wall of the corner about 30m up. 1. 23m. (15) Up rotten rock to corner. Layback or jamb up steep edge. Cracker anchor on ledge. 2. 15m. (15) Follow the superb corner, either chimneying (very strenuous) or laybacking. Belay on large platform. 3. 23m. Follow cracks up wall to top. The rock is worse in the upper section. Original route ends in a large, dirty cave.
Warwick Williams, Jim Tierney, Brian Mattick (alt leads) 1970
Psychedelic 15 41m
A classic chimney struggle with fine moves out on the wall at the top. Start 25m right of EK in the big obvious chimney just to the left of the landslide. Tree anchors. The climb cannot be seen until you're at the base of it as the chimney faces left. 1. 8m. Up and around chockstones, strenuous to cracker anchor. 2. 15m. Continue up the chimney, nut protection to nut anchor on ledge. 3. 18m. (crux) To top of chimney then to ledge. Walk slightly right, step delicately around nose and up the wall to top.
Rohan Reynolds, Keith Royce (alt. leads) 18.8.68

Right Side of Landslide

* Wolganeering 15 60m
On the left side of the vegetated gully (opposite Off The Lip etc) is a yellow offwidth corner. Just 2m right of this offwidth is a nice looking hand crack splitting the face. 1. 20m. (15) Up attractive hand crack that drifts right and then up with interest to ledge. 2. 20m. (10) Move right, then launch up black wall, slinging edges as you go. Belay on large ledge. 3. 20m. (12) Traverse right with trepidation (gulp!), step into chimney, then up pleasant chimney to top. This chimney is possibly the last section of Unexpected.
Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin (alt leads) Aug 2015
Unexpected 8 68m
A very easy beginner's chimney. 80m left of Reunion Blues. Visible across from Off the Lip, Ripple Effect etc. 1. 18m Doddle up chimney/gully to large tree. 2. 50m Easily up chimney to top.
Pete Taylor, Owen Manley 29.7.76

Now the ampitheatre on the right of the huge vegetated gully.

* * Off The Lip 18 60m
Start on the lefthand side of the main wall, 2 meters in from the arete. 1. 30m. (18) Follow up wall on delicate holds past 10 BR's to good stance on ledge. DBB in cubbyhole. 2. 20m. (17) Step leftwards steeply to step "off the lip". Move out onto face and continue up wall to base of hollow flake system and 3.5 friend break. Continue up wall on good jugs to top and DBB. 7BR's on this pitch. 3. 10m. (10) Wal up behind big block and bridge short chimney to top. Tree belay.
Caoimhin Ardren, Glen Lewin 6.10.01
* * Crystal Cylinders 19 60m
Start 3m right of OTL, directly below rightwards leaning black flake system. 1. 50m. (19) Up wall for 3m to 0.5 friend break. Continue up wall past 4 BR's to 3 friend break and thread runner in cave. Second bolt runner needs a bent bracket. Continue up inside of rightwards leaning black flake system past 1BR, pull over flake to arrive at small stance with 1BR. Continue up wall trending rightwards past 7BR's and short incipient crack, with 2 friend break. Continue up wall past 2 friend break near top to DBB on ledge. 2. 10m. (10) Bridge short chimney for 3m, step right onto main cliff. Tree belay.
Glen Lewin, Caoimhin Ardren 14.7.01
Mystery Route ? 55m
The arete left of Ripple Effect past spaced BRs.
* The Ripple Effect 13 54m
Start as for RB. Up corner 1m, step left onto main wall and bolt runner. Continue up wall on good holds, past 7BR's to ledge and cave. Step right into crack, follow short crack to top. Tree belay.
Caoimhin Ardren, Glen Lewin 14.7.01
Reunion Blues 11 48m
The first left facing corner (marked 'RB') encountered when coming around from the Mystery Mountain walking track. "A nice relaxing club when you're suffering from a bloody big hangover." 1. 30m. Straight up corner crack to tree anchor. 2. 18m. Follow central crack on the wall all the way to the top. Tree anchor.
Owen Manley, Pete Taylor, 29.7.76