The Noisy Place
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15 mins
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Morning shade
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Introduction
An aptly named old-style crag that got left out of the guidebooks and seems to have been forgotten. Sits at the Mt. Victoria end of Mt. York, just over Victoria Pass, but hidden amongst the trees.<br/> It is a shady spot in the heat of summer and can be quite cold in winter. The routes are generally short, but there are some longer ones thrown into the mix closer to the Mt. Vic end. The bolts are looking very old and the crag is slowly undergoing a rebolt. More recent routes are glue ins but still typically require bolt plates. The line Die Fox Die is a classic rattly fingers test piece.
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History
The Noisy Place was developed primarily by Mt. Vic local Angus Farquhar and a few of his friends back in the late 80s, early 90s. Gemma Williams, Mark Baker, Ben Pearse and Frey Yule all pitched in to help the cause. Most of the bolts here are bashies, so don’t pull out or fall on them. Many of the routes require natural gear, in addition to bolt plates. Take care.
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Access
Turn right on to Mt. York Rd, at the service station in Mt. Victoria, and head out towards Mt. York. Just past the Berghoffers Pass car park descend the bends and park opposite the gated quarry, in a little clearing on the left hand side. Walk up the hill, towards Mt. York, for about 100m and look for a small cairn on the left. A faint track winds down to a gully that breaks through the cliff line. The first wall you should see is Goats Wall on the left (facing out) as you exit the gully.
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Camping
There is camping and toilets at the Mt. York turning circle.
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The slippery descent gully brings you down to the middle of the cliffline. The following routes start heading left, looking in.
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*
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Blue Blistering Barnacles
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21
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I5m
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Starts L (facing in) of the descent gully. Heel-hook roof then arete. 4BR to DBB.
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G. Williams A. Farquhar 90
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*
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Cranky Cat
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22
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12m
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R arete of main wall. Dyno then 4BR to med #Frs and tree.
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A. Farquhar 94
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Pituitary Dwarf
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22
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15m
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Start up RBS. #4Fr break then straight up (2BR), crack in roof.
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A. Farquhar 94
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Randy Budgie Syndrome
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21
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12m
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Start 2m L of CC at jug. Wire on R, then reach to #4Fr break. Traverse R to arete, up (3BR). Double ropes???
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A. Farquhar A. Jones B. Pearse 89
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*
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Cat Scratch Fever
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22
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15m
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# 6Rock, 2BR. 1FH
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A. Farquhar A. Jones 89
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*
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Chilled Puppy Complex
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24
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15m
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Start at small tree. #4 Rock L of starting jug. 4FH to # 1.5Fr. (rebolted 2014)
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A. Farquhar 90
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* *
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Doigte le Trou
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24
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15m
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4 ubolts to lower off. Technical.
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E . Wells 2014
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*
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Endotoxic Shock
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22
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15m
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Thin crack. Boulder (BR) to recess, then up.
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A. Farquhar, A. Jones B. Pearse 89
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Simon's Route
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25
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15m
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Start L of ES. 3BR.
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B. Pearse 91
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Anaphylaxis
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25
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15m
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Start at weakness L of banksia. Up to traverse line and R to BR. L of BR to break (#0.5 Fr). Up (BR) to thin crack (6 nut).
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A. Farquhar 91
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Slimey Limeys
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27
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15m
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Start L ofDFD. 2BR and 2FH. The easy looking finger crack.
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Visiting Poms stole the route
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*
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Die Fox Die
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22
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15m
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The stunning crack right of the corner. Climbs well when dry and clean!
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M.Baker 90
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The Crunched Dog and the Ducati
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14
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15m
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Corner at L of main wall.
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A. Farquhar 89
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Green Eggs and Ham
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17
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14m
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Middle of wall L of TCDatD. Up and L to BR, arete. R side (BR) to BB.
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G. Williams A. Farquhar 90
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Beepers and Biters
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21
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15m
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Start on undercut wall L of GEaH. Dyno past FH, traverse R along break then up brushed streak. Take #Frs.
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A. Farquhar S. Pearse 89
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The next three climbs are on the dirty mossy wall and don't look that inspiring.
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Sodom
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17
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15m
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R end of slab (20m L of BaB). 3BR and #1,#1.5Fr. R at 3rd BR to finish.
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A. Jones A. Farquhar 89
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Gomorrah
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20
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15m
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2m L of S. 2BR, #3.5Fr to tree.
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A. Jones G. Williams 91
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Whippet Overboard
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14
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10m
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Far L end of slab. 2BR and cams.
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G. Williams A. Farquhar 90
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The following routes are on the right of the descent gully, looking in. This is the higher side of the cliff. I think the little crack in the roof at the far right alcove is still open!
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Petrophile Pulchela
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18
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20m
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Left-most route on grey rock. Up past 4BR and a few med cams to lower off. Distinct Thin Crux.
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E . Wells 2013
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* *
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Goats Overhead
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19
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20m
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Start near tree mid way along buttress. Some really good climbing at the grade. A bit thought provoking, perhaps not the best if you are not solid. 3.5Fr & 4BR to roof. BR on lip. BRs replaced 2014, original lower off chains are fine.
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A. Farquhar, D. Murphy, G. Williams 90
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* * *
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Kneely There
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20
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18m
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Start right of tree at small pockets.
Hard move off the ground past BR to cam slot (#0.5?) then straight up past BRs to DRB.
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Evan Wells
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*
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My Cat's Got a Fractured Pelvis
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18
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18m
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4m R of GO. Hard off the ground then more reasonable. A shame it isn’t longer. 3BR to #4Fr. Over R to chain at 3/4 height.
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A. Farquhar, A. Jones 89
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Intimidation
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23
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18m
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Steep crack 4m L of TA Jam R to ledge (BR). Mantle & up (PR), flake through roof. #Frs & wires. DBB 6m back.
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A. Farquhar 95
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* *
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Twisted Ash
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22
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15m
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L side of alcove, just L of cracked roof. From corner move L to #2,#2.5 Fr break, up to BR. Traverse mder roof, up past 2FH, fixed wire & Fr. Stay on small arete. DBB.
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F. Yule P. Tansley 91
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La Dura Dura Dura Dura
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17
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20
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Chossy corner to roof and up. Double med/large cams plus usual rack. Walk Off
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E . Butler , J . Jackson , E . Wells 2013
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There is a giant choosy roof crack here with tick marks and a lone ring bolt above. Has it been done?
The next few routes are approached from the top of Goat Buttress. About 50m R (facing in) of Goat Buttress is a honeycombed alcove with car-sized blocks nesting above. Carefully move past blocks to 3BB at top of wall R of the alcove. Rap to ledge (BB) on HT. It may also be possible to reach this ledge from below.
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Wrestle the Rhino
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18
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12m
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Start at BB. L to BR, then straight up (BR) to bollard (BR) & interesting exit DBB. Take sling.
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F. Yule Tansley 91
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Hammer Time
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19
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12m
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Start at BB. Straight up (4BR).
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B.Pearse S.Pearse 91
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Captain Oak
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20
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14m
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Start at BB. R to BR then up (BRs) R arete to BB.
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F.Yule P.Tansley 91
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Further around is a big black slab which looks promising but is dirty and chossy. A snaking finger crack starting off a block has been climbed half way to a bail carrot, details unknown. It doesn't climb particularly well.
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Walk Away
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18
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35
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Line of fiddly BR's to top out rings over top. Belay from ground or RB on platform.
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H . Sutherland 2012
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*
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Lakes of Fire
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21
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25
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Line of BRs left of crack past a few FH and lower off.
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E . Wells
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Fall into the Sea
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16
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25
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Up right of crack. 1Br then line of FH's to loweroffs.
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E . Wells 2013
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