The Noisy Place

15 mins

Morning shade


An aptly named old-style crag that got left out of the guidebooks and seems to have been forgotten. Sits at the Mt. Victoria end of Mt. York, just over Victoria Pass, but hidden amongst the trees.<br/> It is a shady spot in the heat of summer and can be quite cold in winter. The routes are generally short, but there are some longer ones thrown into the mix closer to the Mt. Vic end. The bolts are looking very old and the crag is slowly undergoing a rebolt. More recent routes are glue ins but still typically require bolt plates. The line Die Fox Die is a classic rattly fingers test piece.


The Noisy Place was developed primarily by Mt. Vic local Angus Farquhar and a few of his friends back in the late 80s, early 90s. Gemma Williams, Mark Baker, Ben Pearse and Frey Yule all pitched in to help the cause. Most of the bolts here are bashies, so don’t pull out or fall on them. Many of the routes require natural gear, in addition to bolt plates. Take care.


Turn right on to Mt. York Rd, at the service station in Mt. Victoria, and head out towards Mt. York. Just past the Berghoffers Pass car park descend the bends and park opposite the gated quarry, in a little clearing on the left hand side. Walk up the hill, towards Mt. York, for about 100m and look for a small cairn on the left. A faint track winds down to a gully that breaks through the cliff line. The first wall you should see is Goats Wall on the left (facing out) as you exit the gully.


There is camping and toilets at the Mt. York turning circle.

The slippery descent gully brings you down to the middle of the cliffline. The following routes start heading left, looking in.

* Blue Blistering Barnacles 21 I5m
Starts L (facing in) of the descent gully. Heel-hook roof then arete. 4BR to DBB.
G. Williams A. Farquhar 90
* Cranky Cat 22 12m
R arete of main wall. Dyno then 4BR to med #Frs and tree.
A. Farquhar 94
Pituitary Dwarf 22 15m
Start up RBS. #4Fr break then straight up (2BR), crack in roof.
A. Farquhar 94
Randy Budgie Syndrome 21 12m
Start 2m L of CC at jug. Wire on R, then reach to #4Fr break. Traverse R to arete, up (3BR). Double ropes???
A. Farquhar A. Jones B. Pearse 89
* Cat Scratch Fever 22 15m
# 6Rock, 2BR. 1FH
A. Farquhar A. Jones 89
* Chilled Puppy Complex 24 15m
Start at small tree. #4 Rock L of starting jug. 4FH to # 1.5Fr. (rebolted 2014)
A. Farquhar 90
* * Doigte le Trou 24 15m
4 ubolts to lower off. Technical.
E . Wells 2014
* Endotoxic Shock 22 15m
Thin crack. Boulder (BR) to recess, then up.
A. Farquhar, A. Jones B. Pearse 89
Simon's Route 25 15m
Start L of ES. 3BR.
B. Pearse 91
Anaphylaxis 25 15m
Start at weakness L of banksia. Up to traverse line and R to BR. L of BR to break (#0.5 Fr). Up (BR) to thin crack (6 nut).
A. Farquhar 91
Slimey Limeys 27 15m
Start L ofDFD. 2BR and 2FH. The easy looking finger crack.
Visiting Poms stole the route
* Die Fox Die 22 15m
The stunning crack right of the corner. Climbs well when dry and clean!
M.Baker 90
The Crunched Dog and the Ducati 14 15m
Corner at L of main wall.
A. Farquhar 89
Green Eggs and Ham 17 14m
Middle of wall L of TCDatD. Up and L to BR, arete. R side (BR) to BB.
G. Williams A. Farquhar 90
Beepers and Biters 21 15m
Start on undercut wall L of GEaH. Dyno past FH, traverse R along break then up brushed streak. Take #Frs.
A. Farquhar S. Pearse 89

The next three climbs are on the dirty mossy wall and don't look that inspiring.

Sodom 17 15m
R end of slab (20m L of BaB). 3BR and #1,#1.5Fr. R at 3rd BR to finish.
A. Jones A. Farquhar 89
Gomorrah 20 15m
2m L of S. 2BR, #3.5Fr to tree.
A. Jones G. Williams 91
Whippet Overboard 14 10m
Far L end of slab. 2BR and cams.
G. Williams A. Farquhar 90

The following routes are on the right of the descent gully, looking in. This is the higher side of the cliff. I think the little crack in the roof at the far right alcove is still open!

Petrophile Pulchela 18 20m
Left-most route on grey rock. Up past 4BR and a few med cams to lower off. Distinct Thin Crux.
E . Wells 2013
* * Goats Overhead 19 20m
Start near tree mid way along buttress. Some really good climbing at the grade. A bit thought provoking, perhaps not the best if you are not solid. 3.5Fr & 4BR to roof. BR on lip. BRs replaced 2014, original lower off chains are fine.
A. Farquhar, D. Murphy, G. Williams 90
* * * Kneely There 20 18m
Start right of tree at small pockets. Hard move off the ground past BR to cam slot (#0.5?) then straight up past BRs to DRB.
Evan Wells
* My Cat's Got a Fractured Pelvis 18 18m
4m R of GO. Hard off the ground then more reasonable. A shame it isn’t longer. 3BR to #4Fr. Over R to chain at 3/4 height.
A. Farquhar, A. Jones 89
Intimidation 23 18m
Steep crack 4m L of TA Jam R to ledge (BR). Mantle & up (PR), flake through roof. #Frs & wires. DBB 6m back.
A. Farquhar 95
* * Twisted Ash 22 15m
L side of alcove, just L of cracked roof. From corner move L to #2,#2.5 Fr break, up to BR. Traverse mder roof, up past 2FH, fixed wire & Fr. Stay on small arete. DBB.
F. Yule P. Tansley 91
La Dura Dura Dura Dura 17 20
Chossy corner to roof and up. Double med/large cams plus usual rack. Walk Off
E . Butler , J . Jackson , E . Wells 2013

There is a giant choosy roof crack here with tick marks and a lone ring bolt above. Has it been done?

The next few routes are approached from the top of Goat Buttress. About 50m R (facing in) of Goat Buttress is a honeycombed alcove with car-sized blocks nesting above. Carefully move past blocks to 3BB at top of wall R of the alcove. Rap to ledge (BB) on HT. It may also be possible to reach this ledge from below.

Wrestle the Rhino 18 12m
Start at BB. L to BR, then straight up (BR) to bollard (BR) & interesting exit DBB. Take sling.
F. Yule Tansley 91
Hammer Time 19 12m
Start at BB. Straight up (4BR).
B.Pearse S.Pearse 91
Captain Oak 20 14m
Start at BB. R to BR then up (BRs) R arete to BB.
F.Yule P.Tansley 91

Further around is a big black slab which looks promising but is dirty and chossy. A snaking finger crack starting off a block has been climbed half way to a bail carrot, details unknown. It doesn't climb particularly well.

Walk Away 18 35
Line of fiddly BR's to top out rings over top. Belay from ground or RB on platform.
H . Sutherland 2012
* Lakes of Fire 21 25
Line of BRs left of crack past a few FH and lower off.
E . Wells
Fall into the Sea 16 25
Up right of crack. 1Br then line of FH's to loweroffs.
E . Wells 2013