The Needle


This is the smallest of the four major spires in the park, being about 60 m high.


Although Eric Dark, Dot English and party altempted this peak in 36, they were unsuccessful and the first recorded ascent was by members of the University of New England Mountaineering Club in 59.


Can be approached from Belougery Spire. Note the crag is on private property so permission must be sought first. Descent is by double-rope abseil from BB down E side, or double-rope abseil from rap station atop The Kiruna Crooner.

Climbs are described anticlockwise from SW Arete.

* The Climb 8 39m
Pleasantly short. START: Obvious; lefthand side of the east face. 1. 9m. Up corner to obvious stance. 2. 30m. There are two ribs to choose from, the left being trickier.
Members of New England (Uni) Mountaineering Club 1959
Colour-blind 11 35m
Start just L of middle of E Face, L of tree and 2 m L of abseil gully. Overlapping crack for 15m, then R to vegetated crack. Up.
B Spry, A Gallagher, M Thornton Easter 79

The next major line R is quite vegetated. This is the E Face abseil descent route.

Safe Bet 11 35m
Small pillar just R of abseil gully, then L side of loose-looking arete.
Greg Croft, Paul Croft 4-8-91
Dreaming 12 35m
Start at crack 1 m L of Optical Illusion. Crack in ramp for 12 m, then R and up vegetated crack on R of loose-looking arete/prow. Poor rock.
Greg Croft, Graeme Bowden, Dan Croft 22-9-90
Optical Illusion 13 35m
Crack I m L of Deception; loose rock and grass.
Warwick Williams, William Blunt Easter 79
Deception 12 35m
Start on east face, 1.5m left of arete. Thin, twin cracks.
Warwick Williams, William Blunt, J.Gallagher Easter 1979
Northern Lights 14 35m
Pleasant and well protected. Start at clean arete on N side. This is the first climb reached when approaching from sealed road to TV tower. Overhanging start, then past BR to ledge. Continue up arete past three BRs to BB on L.
Andrew Penney, Carl Joan Jagusch 13-6-89
Sun and Stars 16 35m
Crack in ramp on W side of N arete, to join NL at three-quarters height.
Rod Kerr, John McKenna
Northern Gusto 22M1 35m
Groove in middle of clean W Face. BRs. Two rests.
Steve Waite, Greg Croft, Alison Greenhalgh 15-1-94
* * Eugowra 19 35m
Sustained and beautiful; best line on cliff. Crack between two bolted routes on W Face.
Greg Croft, Rod Kerr 10-11-93
Line of Stars 19 35m
Line 1 m R of Eugowra. BRs.
Steve Waite, Greg Croft, Alison Greenhalgh 15-1-94
Cold Summer Day 15 30m
Wide crack L of The Kiruna Crooner with large chockstone at one-third height.
Steve Waite, Greg Croft, Alison Greenhalgh 15-1-94
* The Kiruna Crooner 21 35m
Start 40m R of NL, in middle of W Face below wide crack on R of overhanging face split by three cracks. Up R to BR, then wall and arete to top of pillar (six BRs; small wires and SLCDs on R side of arete at half-height and at top). Over boulder, then step across wide crack. Up to ledge, BB.
Andrew Penney, Carl-Joan Jagusch 13-6-89
Forgotten Climb 14 40m
Broken line on NW corner.
Warwick Williams, L Thompson Easter 75
Windy Ways 16 48m
Start in middle of W Face, just R of small arete. Up 5 m, then L to arete. Arete (poor rock), then L into crack/corner.
Phil Draper, John Yealds 4-8-91
Unnamed Climb 15 51m
Start at old bolt at base of roof-capped corner a few m round L of Ramshead South. The line.
FA unknown
Ramshead South 12 57m
Otherwise called "The West Face". START: On the SW face at a crack on the lowest rib. 1. 15m Up crack. 2. 21m The crack on the righthand side of gully Bolts! 3. 21m Scramble up right.
Alec Campbell, John Pickard 30-10-65
Irish Nightmare 18 50m
Start at R corner at base of S Buttress. Corner to chockstone, then up nose. Regain corner after 10 m, then up to stance. L to nose, then face to loose ground (poor rock).
Jim Brown, Greg Croft 9-9-90