The Motherlode
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10-15 mins
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Afternoon sun
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Cliffs up to 20m high
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Introduction
Deep in Berowra Valley, this series of cliffs offers a range of fun climbing. There are three sub areas at this crag. The rock is generally pretty solid, but being a new crag it's not a bad idea to take a helmet just in case of loose holds.
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History
Discovered by Rod Wills in 2011, then independently discovered by Dave Hughes a few months later.
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Access
For top access (Fools Gold wall), park at the end of Somerville Rd in Hornsby Heights, then walk down the Crosslands rd for about 200m before turning left down a fireroad. Follow this to a power tower, then down through the scrub for about 100m to the top of Fools Gold Wall. Descent is on the right (looking out). For bottom access (Lasseters Reef) park at Crosslands reserve then walk upstream for about 10 minutes to a rocky creek crossing under the powerlines. Cross this and immediately head up the hill for 100m or so to the left end of the wall. There is a very rough track connecting these two areas.
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Fools Gold Wall
A short upper crag with several projects on it. These are the earliest lines at the crag, "because they were closest to the car". Please stay off these until they've been ticked by the equipper
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PROJECT - Kev
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??
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6m
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At Left side of wall. Mantle into cave and up....a boulder problem on bolts.
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Kev ???
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PROJECT - Dude
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??
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8m
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About 2m right of Project-Kev. Step onto wall on the left and traverse into bolt and up
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Dude ???
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PROJECT - Rod
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??
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6m
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Up orange over hang in middle of wall, into corner and up over steepish territory.
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Rod ???
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Gold Rush Wall
Across the creek from Lasseter's Reef wall is a small cliff with some potential.
Lasseter's Reef Wall
Really the main area of the crag. There is still some potential at the left and right ends, but the climbing to date has been on one wall which is up to about 20m high. The rock tends to be very solid in this section. There might be a theme to the route names.
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*
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Induction
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24
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12m
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Start beneath cave at left end of main wall, in front of the large casuarina. Easily up to cave, clip first two bolts from ledge, then up obvious line. Swings left to anchors at top
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D. Hughes 2/4/2011
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Goldbricking
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20
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15m
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Start on block 5m right of Induction. Scramble easily on to block, then straight up.
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D. Hughes 7/10/2012
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Ay, You!
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18
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13m
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Start on block, easily up to block, then reachy moves up through scoops to small roof. Heads slightly left to the anchors.
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D. Hughes 24/7/2011
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Dwarvish Poetry
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16
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15m
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Start at right of large block, beneath obvious small L facing corner at break. Up to break (BR) then easily up corner to slab. Take care clipping 2nd bolt
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D. Hughes 24/7/2011
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*
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The Steven Bradbury Strategy
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22
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15m
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Starts 3m right of Dwarvish Poetry. Up through roof then straight up to anchors of Dwarvish Poetry.
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D. Hughes 25/8/2011
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Pyrites of the Caribbean
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22
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13m
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Start under the roof 2m right of tSBS. Up to roof, mantle the dinner plate, then up to crack and anchors
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D. Hughes 11/8/2011
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The Midas Thrutch
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24
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15m
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The token trad route. Follows the flared crack through the roof, then up to the anchors of PotC, or continue all the way to the top near DP.
Reasonably well protected but watch for the piece at the lip being lifted out by the rope. Be aware that the flaring means you need much smaller gear than appearances would suggest.
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D. Hughes 7/10/2012
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Gilt Edge
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25
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12m
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Start at far right of the wall. Easily to the roof, up the left side of the arete to ledge, then balancy to anchors.
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D. Hughes 11/08/2011
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