The Junkyard

10 minutes

Crag faces north and east



One massive cave with a plethora of uber-steep sport routes. If you like to do it on the ceiling, this crag is for you.


One day Matt Brooks came pottering along, admired the fine steep rock, called in Ben Lane, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith and set about creating some modern art with the help of Mr Bosch.


Find Woolwash Rd in Airds (near Campbelltown), and park at the end of the street. It would be wise not to leave any valuables in your car. To get to The Junk Yard Cave, jump the gate, walk down the road and take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Navigate through the burnt out cars, go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves. For the Trackside Cave, instead of taking the first R, continue down the road past a second gate, and following the road past a hairpin bend. The wall will appear on your right a little after this. A total of 500m. The road continues all the way down to the "Woolwash" swimming hole.

Junkyard Cave

* Grand Theft Auto 19 12m
The first climb you come to (far L end) after coming down the descent gully. Juggy steep start heading L and finish with a funky leg jam in the last break. Fun
Marek Brock-Tasler Nov 12
Not Very Ladylike 23 12m
Up the easy start then work hard to get into the slopey break. Probably harder now, holds have broken off at the crux. Finish up LGG.
Matt Brooks 04/09/2012
* Lady Ger Ger 22 12m
Start 2m R of NVL at the L end of the first large cave. Up steeply and over the bulge to the slopey ledge then power up the wall on the jugs to the anchors.
Jason Lammers, Gerard Farmer 08/09/2012
* Short Sharp Loud 25 15m
At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Bouldery steep climbing. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting-in-the-tail finish.
Neil Monteith 4/8/2012
* * Chk Chk Boom Chic! 26 15m
2m right of SSL. Bouldery steep and powerful fun! Boulder through the pockets and slopes then up right through the roof and head back left to the lower offs.
Matt Brooks 1/09/2012
* * Chk Chk Boom Chic Direct Finish 27 15
From CCBC 4th RB go straight up the wall to DUBs.
Matt Brooks 24/02/2012
Communal Spoon 24 15m
3m R of CCBC at RB on the ramp. Up the easy start and follow the juggy flake out L into CCBC to finish.
Jason Lammers 2013
Quick Hit, Quick Fix/Nowra Needles 21 6m
Short and punchy, link into CS for the full deal.
Ben Jenga, 25/7/2015
* Sin City 21 6m
R hand Mini route on small cave R of CCBC.
Matt brooks Nov 12
* Check out my Junk 23 8m
Funny bouldering on big holds. Start at RB in roof 3m R of SC. Boulder L crossing SC past another bolt to the anchors of the Campbelltown Cookup - Project on the L of the lower cave/roof.
Marek Brock-Tasler 24-02-2013
Project MattB Hard 15m
Strat at the anchors of Sin City. Boulder up and R past 4 RBs to join the Top of TFDC.
Project MattB
* * * The Full Dole Cheque 27 20m
The rising L line from after the crux of BD. Follow BD to the big hold just before the anchors, then drop out L onto diagonally L rising line of rings with mono move just before the top.
Ben Lane 3/11/2012
* * Bogan Direct 26 12m
The steep nose and roof at the right end of the first cave 15m of CCB.
Ben Lane 19-08-2012
* * * Feral Kitten 27 15m
Fun steep bouldering. Shares the start with Cougars. 15m R of BD at the fine crack. Boulder the pockets out R then L back into the seam/crack. Follow the R side of this on the good but spaced holds to the top.
Matt Brooks 3/11/2012
* * * Cougars 29 15m
Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Fantastic. One of the hardest routes in Sydney. May be harder.Obvious R rising line of pockets and scoops at the left-hand end of main cave.
Matt Brooks13/10/2012
* * * Battle Cat 28 35m
Wow - Mega line. The King line of the crag. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam, traverse R and up to join Fifty Shades at the nose and finish at its anchors for now.... Sustained junkyard awesomeness
Ben Jenga 25/7/2015
* * * Leaking White Lady 28 30M
From the 5RB of JYD, traverse L staying low on the slopes to the Prow. Duck L around under this and straight up into the finish of FSOMD.
MattB 2013
* * Fifty Shades Of Mt Druitt 23 30m
Another awesome pumper on big holds! As for JYD to the break under the roof. Traverse left under the roof around the arĂȘte and diagonally up the wall to the anchors.
Matt Brooks 28/7/2012
* * The Junk Yard Dog 25 20m
Awesome steep pumper! At the seam line in the middle of the main cave directly below the main prow. Follow the bolts up the seam line, traversing right at the break, then back left along the flake to a lower off.
Matt Brooks 7/7/2012
* * * The Junk Yard Dog Extension 26 30m
Awesome steep pumper extension. One of the best steep lines in Sydney if not NSW. As for JYD, but keep cranking up the prow above the JYD lower off.
Matt Brooks 28/7/2012
* * Sixteen and Pregnant 23 12m
Fun, steep moves, with the first crux of JYD. Start as for JYD. After the first steep section, and the big jug (level with 5RB-dont clip the 5th) go diagonally R up the steep wall past 3 RBs to lower off.
Matt Brooks 4/09/2012
* Smack Crack 22 15m
5m R of JYD at the obvious roof crack line. Straight up this via the ledges and some strange roof moves. Reach helps and finding the hidden jug. Head slightly L to double U bolt anchors.
Neil Monteith, Ben Lane 1/09/2012
* * Beep Beep Big Love 24 20m
5m right of JYD off the big sandy ledge. Climb the ledges and power up the wall right of the crack in the steep wall to lower offs at the right end of the main roof. Steep, powerful and fun climbing!
Ben Lane 14/7/2012
* Manufactured Meat 25 15m
Big roof route! Starts on the far right side of the main cave, just before the scramble up to the right side ledge. Boulder over three tricky shelves to lie down rest underneath massive roof. Crux moves across this 4m ceiling on enriched pockets to pumpy finish. Back-jump to clean.
Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013
* * * The Barstard Child 27 20m
Start 1m L of LG at RB above the short scramble up from the lower level. Head diagonally L up to jugs crossing Neils Project. Keep moving L via a hard move off the jugs to the flake. Go L up into BBBL. Follow this to the anchors.
Matt Brooks 23/09/2012
* Cabramatta girls love you long time 25 15m
Start as for PGPO. Hit the lip and keep going left all the way to the anchors of BBBL. Pumpy with big holds but bring campus arms or be good at heel and toe hooks.
Matt Brooks, 2013
* Penriff Girls Put Out 23 12m
Get your campus boots on. Start as for LGs. Climb the initial arete and first 2 bolts of LGs the campus L then finish up Manufactured Meat.
Ben Lane 1/09/2012
Liverpool Girls 18 10m
Was a bit dirty but went down easily! Start 20m R of BBBL up and right at the higher ledge and alcove. Climbs the left hand arĂȘte out of the ledge, pulling out right onto the face.
Glen Norrell 26/7/2012
Dirty Arse Crack 8m
The ultra dirty arse crack left of H. Lower offs in the roof and boltless holes drilled. Looks like a classic :-)
* Heisenberg Project - Jason Lammers ??? 15m
The slab and roof L of the Negative Funk corner, very thin at the start to a cool roof. Project still please stay off.
Project - Jason Lammers
* * Negative Funk 22 15m
4m R of LG at the corner crack. Good fun steep route on big holds. Stiff little crux at the top. Follow the corner crack to a big move up to the 3rd bolt and break. Traverse right a few moves to a good rest. Head straight up over the lip to the anchors.
Ben Lane 7/7/2012
* * Negative Bird 20 15m
A nice little link of the start of NF and the finish of EB. Good little warm up.
* * Early Bird 23 15m
1m right of NF. Steep fun on big holds. Follow the line of rings up and right following the big holds and breaks, staying out right of NF on the face at the top.
Neil Monteith 4/8/2012
* * Stroke my Mullet 24 15m
The steep left leaning line heading prow coming out of Scrambletown. Climb ST to the 2nd RB and then swing L on the slopes to the arete. Go around this and up the lovely wall.
Matt Brooks 27/10/2012
* * Scrambletown 21 15m
5m right of NF. Really fun steep cranking on good holds. Follow the seam and scoop directly up off the left end of the slopey ledge.
Jason Lammers, Matt Brooks 06/09/2012
* * Tracksuit Timewarp 23 15m
Boulder past the 1st bolt of Scrambletown and the follow the rings diagonally R to the anchors of SB.
Matt Brooks 19-08-2012
* * * Strange Behaviour 24 15m
5m right of Scrambletown. Fantastic climbing on good edges with amazing rock! Mantle onto the first slopey ledge and then move up and right to follow the fine seam crack up the steep yellow wall.
Ben Lane 4/8/2012
* Junk In Ya Trunk 23 15m
Big roof with a nice headwall. Start down and R of SB in the L end of the far R hand cave. Up the slab past 2 bolts the boulder R through the roof, before mantling onto the headwall. Up this past 2RBs to the loweroff.
Matt Brooks 6/03/2013

Junk Yard Cave Lower

Western Redneck 15 10m
Short line of RBs at left end of lower slab.
Jessica Shaham 4/8/2012
Oasis Babes 19 10m
3m right of WR. Some thin bouldery moves directly up the middle of the slab.
Jessica Shaham 4/8/2012
* Foxy Miss Roxy 16 10m
The obvious flake at the right end of the lower slab. Straight up and into the fun little layback and up to the lower off on the main ledge.
Glen Norrell 4/8/2012
OPEN Project 10m
3m right of FMR. Technical. Straight up over the overlaps. If you can be bothered cleaning it your welcome to it!

Trackside Wall

A smaller series of faces and caves to 12m high just off the side of the main road down to the Woolwash swimming hole.

Busted Arse Commodore 24 10m
10m left of Housos' at the nice orange face. Funky hard slab into roof move at the start then follow the steep breaks up and R to the top. Fun bouldery steepness with a few sandy holds at the end.
Matt Brooks 9/7/2012
Busted Arse Commodore Extension (Project) 25 15m
Climb BAC and continue right to the anchors of UBP.
Matt brooks Project
* * The Fat Pizza Link (Project) ?? 20m
Start as for BAC extension, traverse right from the anchors and finish up Housos.
Project Matt Brooks
* Vicious Wallabies Project 10m
Start just R of the big block L of Housos. Boulder to the break and then power L to the anchors of BAC.
Project Matt Brooks
* Ugg Boot Princess 23 10
Follow Housos to the roof then keep going L to the chains.
Matt Brooks 19-08-2012
* * Housos' 21 12m
Middle of the the Tier orange cave at the L end of Trackside Wall. Straight out the steep tiered bands heading slightly left. Short steep fun with some amazing holds and good stone.
Matt Brooks July 2012
* The Commission 25 12m
Steep climbing up the cool looking prow. 10m down and R of Houso's at the bottom of the steep prow.
Matt Brooks 25/09/2012
* * The Commission Extension 26 15m
The way to do this route!!! Climb the Commission to the first jug in the roof, then head L through the roof on fantastic holds to a second set of anchors around L.
Matt Brooks 25/09/2012
* Pinoy Beauty 16 15m
A fun diagonal jaunt across the wall. Looks easier than it is. Start about 5m R of the Commission, up to the break, traverse R and up to the ledge, head R across the slab and up the wall to the anchors.
Jess Shaham, Matt Brooks 19/08/2012
Mudslingers 18 15m
A bit dirty but "will clean up with some ascents and further brushing". Start 3m R of PB. Boulder to the break and ledge and up R as for PB. Head L out across the the slab to a lower off.
Matt Brooks, Jess Shamham 19-08-2012
Project Matt 15m
Start as for MS. Straight up the wall to the MS lower off.
Matt Brooks Project
Project - Ben ?? 10m
10m R of MS, go direct up the wall to PB anchors
Project - Ben Lane
* A Hit a Day keeps the Doctor Away 23 15m
Nice thin face climbing, will clean up with a few more ascents. Start 20m R of MS. Boulder up 1m R of the first bolt then up the L hand side of the scoop. Step L onto the slab. Skirt the top bulge on the L.
Matt Brooks 07/10/2012
Saturday at the Rissole 18 12m
Start at ground level, 4m right of AHADKTDA. Mantle onto right end of lower slab then onto wall and up past 5 RBs to anchor.
Matt Brooks, Marek Brock-Tasler 2013
Aussie Pride 17 10m
Start as for SATR. Mantle onto slab and move right to follow the right hand line up the wall.
Marek Brock-Tasler, Matt Brooks, 2013