The Hideaway
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5 minutes
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Almost all day shade
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Introduction
South West Sydney keeps on giving. Another wall of water washed sandstone with 10-20m high sport routes. A good local alternative to a day at Nowra for those with a shortage of time.
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History
Early recorded history is minimal. Locals call this area Greengate (apparently named after the color of the gate on the main road that was once painted green). Two weird old carrot bolts have been found on this cliff line - one at the base of the Descent Gully Wall and one on the arete on the far right end of Easy Street. Some old faded slings and biners were found in the bush. As a densely developed sport crag the history begins with the discovery by local Matt Brooks after some extensive bush bashing in early 2014.
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Access
Park at the corner of Balmoral and Mercedes Rds in Ingleburn. Head through the locked gate and down the closed bitumen road for about 80 metres till you see a foot track on the R. Turn R down this and follow it for about 150 metres to another faint track on the R and the top of the cliff about 15 metres down this. The descent rungs are about 15 metres L of here (facing out).<br/><br/>A short scramble down a series of rungs here on the northern end of the cliff (the left end facing out). This descent access is not suitable for small children or non-climbers, but it is possible to go 100m further L (facing out) and come down a track and traverse back R.<br/><br/>Climbers have removed a lot of bogan rubbish from the base of this crag, including hundreds of bottles and cans. Please keep the place clean! Don't throw orange peels into the bush, they don't rot. If you see any trash left by others please take it out with you.<br/><br/>There are two large Tarps in the Main cave to keep gear and boots clean - please leave these!
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Easy Street
At the bottom of the descent rungs walk right (facing the cliff) past the Descent Gully Wall, squeeze around rock to small juggy cave, then keep walking another 20m to the grey wall first bolted route.
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Farewell TNF
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V1
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Nice easy longish problem starting from the left side of the cave all the way thru to the nice high jug on the right side of the cave.
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Jason Lammers, 2014
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Unknown
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7m
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Juggy wall right of the cave. Holes are drilled.
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Undercut Easy Route
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15
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Wall just right of a wide crack to the right of the cave. Undercut start at scoop, then up on slopers. Grade 15ish?
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Tim Booth?
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20m further right is a nice grey face with a flake in the middle.
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Easy Route
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13
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Grade unknown. 13ish?
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Tim Booth?
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15m right is a closed corner.
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Pyromaniac
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20
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10m
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Up corner for 5m then left and out bulges to break under rooflet. Hand traverse right to lip, mantle onto ledge and clip anchors.
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Neil Monteith & Marek, 2014
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Christine
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16
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8m
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As for Pyromaniac to first bolt then right under bulge to arete and anchors.
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Neil Monteith, 2014
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Mystery Arete
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There is a lone very very poor carrot high on the arete just right of Corner Project. Grade, name, first ascentist unknown.
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Descent Gully Wall
10m to the right of the descent rungs is a short featured wall with an easy starter on the left and two tricky routes on the right. Rock quality isn't as good here compared to the rest of the crag.
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I'd Rather Be
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12
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10m
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Up easy corner, step L then R to anchors.
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Jessica Shaham, Matt Brooks, 2014
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Winter Soldier
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22
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10m
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To 1st bolt of IRB then step R and up the middle of the wall. Up to top roof and out the flake. Finish with hands on top jug.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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Gettin Wet
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22
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10m
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3m R of IRB. Up pocketed wall past FHs to a slopey move above mid break. Balance up arete to anchors.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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The Ghetto Cave
The first sector you come to as you turn right (facing out) at the bottom of the descent gully is South Centralish - a large very steep cave with assorted graffiti and junk at the base. If you ignore the trash and look up you'll see an impressive pocketed cave with some stellar roof routes. All roped routes start from a sloping terrace about 6m off the ground. Scramble up to this terrace on the right side and belay off the first bolt. There is also an excellent assortment of boulder problems on the 4m wall below the roof.
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* *
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Glenquarie
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24
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13m
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Just to the right of the main cave is this overhung prow with an undercut roof to start. Through roof, up juggy prow to reachy crux section. Finish up onto slab and anchors. If you're really rad you can top out.
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Neil Monteith, 2014
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The following boulder problems are on the short graffiti covered wall below the main cave. Although they look a little ugly the rock is stellar and the problems are excellent. There is currently two large green tarps to protect you from the dirt.
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Trash and Treasure
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V0
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Right side of cave on big holds.
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Neil Monteith
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Arete
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V0
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Steep juggy ledge prow
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* * *
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Ghetto Booty
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V6
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Lower right hand start to Booty
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* * *
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Shank
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V5
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Traverse in from right on slimpers then long move to good hold.
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* *
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Boofa
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V4
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Start left - trend right via long move.
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Tim
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* *
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Slightly Less Cultured
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V5
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Start as for Shazza Dazza, move right and finish up Boofa.
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Matt Brooks, 27/11/2014
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* *
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Shazza Dazza
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V3
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Slopers trending left above dugout dirt cave then up high wall.
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Leigh & Matt 2014
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These routes climb the massive ceiling above the boulder problems. Scramble up the 'slab' right of the Toy boulder problem to small ledge. Belay off bolts.
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* *
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Open Project
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15m
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Start as for GS. Head straight out to lip. From lip work L to the seam then head up wall to anchors. Very hard.
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Set by Matt Brooks, 2013
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* * *
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Ghetto Superstar
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28
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23m
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A 20m roof in Sydney on good rock with fun gymnastic climbing. Start at the right of the cave. Trend left following pockets and scoops to join Riot Project at the large flake. Finish up that route.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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* * *
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Riot Wing
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27
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15m
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Au naturale roof route through centre of cave and finishing out the right side of the large scoop. The first five metres is bouldery upside down climbing on pinches. Shares the second half with Ghetto Superstar. Grey perma-draws on the first 5 bolts
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Neil Monteith, 2014
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Project Matt 2
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15m
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Start as for Riot Wing and from the middle of the roof go left to the anchors of WOSA.
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Set by Matt Brooks, 2014
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* *
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Wipe On Sex Appeal
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25
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12m
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The line left of Riot Wing finishing high up in the back of the cave. A gymnastic and unusual sequence on some pockets brings beautiful featured holds to top.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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Project Matt
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15m
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Start as for WOSA but stay low on the lip and low roof holds, through the large scoop and break to the lip.
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Set by Matt Brooks, 2014
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Grey Slab
50m past the cave is a slab with a capped roof starting about 5m above a series of blocks. Routes have slabby moves down low then burly steepness through the upper section. Because of the roof the slabs remain weather protected in light rain. Bonus!
Scramble up slot on right end to belay ledge.
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Malice a Forethought
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17
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12m
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The R hand route off the ledge. Up past 2 bolts to slab, traverse R along break then up small corner, through bulge to anchors.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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* *
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Tapering
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20
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15m
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Start as for MaF, then right of the vertical seam to steep finish.
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Jason Lammers, 2014
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* *
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Dob in a Dumper
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19
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15m
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Head up the middle of slab past FHs to anchor chain rap anchor under roof. Very well bolted.
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Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith, 2014
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*
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Leed Lemon
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19
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13m
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Start up slab on pockets past U bolts, then balancy face and steep orange bulge. Clip anchor in roof from undercling to the left.
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Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks, 2014
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* *
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Wet Fridays
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18
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14m
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Start on right facing flake then reachy moves between scoops to small ledge. Swing right under roof on juggy rail to clip and go anchor in roof.
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Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks, 2014
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Freeloader
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18
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25m
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A rising traverse of Grey Slab clipping everyone else's bolts along the way! Start up Tapering and then traverse left across Dob in a Dumper, Leed Lemon and step across into Wet Fridays (crux), up a bit and left again all the way to Obscured Pedicure's anchors. Rap off.
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Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin, Feb 2015
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The Prow Wall
50m past after the Grey Slab is a section of overhung orange rock, and a shorter section of lovely (gridbolted) vertical orange rock to the left.
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Foot Fetish
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23
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15m
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Short and technical with a cool undercling crux move. Start 2m right of OP at the left end of the ledge just off ground level. Boulder through the roofs and onto the slab and up to the scoop cave. Duck under the nose of the cave and onto the top slab.
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Matt Brooks, 6/9/2014
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* *
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Obscured Pedicure
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22
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15m
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Start approximately 20m right of the prow at ground level L of the Grey Wall. Up and right over small roof past steep pull onto the slab. Up slab past a few intricate moves.
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Leigh Dawes, Matt Brooks, 2014
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J'ai Froid
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19
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15m
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Start 2m L of OP at small juggy crack. Up the juggy wall onto small edge under roof. Slightly L through the roof and up upper slab.
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Marek Brock-Tasler, Neil Monteith, 5/7/2014
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*
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Trash and Ruin
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22
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15m
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Start at wide left-facing flake 10m left of OP. Up flake roof, hand traverse left along break and finish with rising traverse to anchors of Jack Spaniel. Clean on second.
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Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith, 2014
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Matt B Project
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18m
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As for JS to the 4th bolt. Diagonally R crossing TAR, around bulge and up wall.
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Set by Matt Brooks 2014
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*
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Jack Spaniel
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22
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14m
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Starts behind a small tree. Subtle arete on crimps to stance, then up bulgy wall to anchors under big roof. RB then FHs.
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Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks, 2014
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Hawk Habitat
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21
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12m
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Start just right of Tim's Project. Slippery traverse right to start, then hard mantle onto small ledge. Up through awesome pockets to juggy break. Either climb direct to under roof (22) or bail right along the break and finish up JS (21).
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Jason Lammers, 2014
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Prow Project Tim
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17m
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Up juggy wall then to the top of steep prow feature. Closed project.
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Set 2014
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*
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Yet Another Monty Traverse
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21
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15m
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Start on ledge at base of SOMS and traverse the horizontal weakness with magic pockets to anchors of JS. Requires trad finger to hand sized cams.
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Neil Monteith, 5/7/2014
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Seam of Much Scrubbing - Open Project
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10m
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Start 2m right of BT at the closed seam. Give it a go! Will be 27/28.
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Set by Paul Thompson 2014
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*
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Booby Traps
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23
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15m
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Start 5m right of HG at the fist sized pocket. Up jugs and L to flake. Hard move to next flake and so onto ledge. Finish with hand on top.
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Mcliff about 15 metres down this.
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* *
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Ergonomical Boobies (Link Up)
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23
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15m
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Super Traversin'. Picks all the best parts of the wall. Start the same as Booby Gem but instead of going to its anchors traverse left (just under the roof) and do the pockety finish of Ergonomics
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Niko Eltarenko, 28/7/2015
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* *
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Hidden Boobies (Link-Up)
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21
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13m
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Up HG and head right into BT. Finish as for that route.
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* *
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Hidden Gem
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23
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12m
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The flake, grey face and flake 40m left of The Prow. Finish with hands on top of the cliff.
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Matt Brooks, Tarid Colhouqn, 2014
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* * *
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Ergonomics/Egonomics
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22
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12m
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Start just left of HG. Up vertical wall with big moves to big holds. Victory jug is just AFTER the anchors.
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Jason Lammers, 2014
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*
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Poppin Tags
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24
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15m
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Bouldery down low to a slopey traverse and a fun finish. Start 4m L of Egonomics below the grey rock. Climb this to the break, traverse R and boulder to the anchors of Egonomics.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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Jenga Project
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Bringing back the bold. Corner to slab to steep. 5m L of HG.
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Set by Ben Jenga 2014
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Boganette
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20
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15m
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Start about 20m left of Jenga Project below left facing seam/flake feature.
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Marek Brock-Tasler, 2104
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Chop Chip Wall
Keep wandering along the base for 60m past The Prow Wall passing a short slab to reach this steep orange wall 15m high water polished steep wall hidden in the jungle. Lovely rock - dubious ethics. This wall seeps badly after heavy rain.
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* *
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Pill and Potions
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24
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15m
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The far R route of CC wall, 3m R of CM. Over the roof, up R to flake, then pockets to break and crimps to anchor. Stick-clip 2nd bolt unless very solid at the grade.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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* * *
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Chisel Mode
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25
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14m
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Long dyno through bulge then right past pockets to flake. Up deep fried potato holds to break then last puzzling moves to chain at lip.
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Neil Monteith 2014
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* *
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Crucified
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26
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13m
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As for CM to first bolt then directly up, rightward to then head left up black streak with two mega pockets. Finish up ethically enhanced holds.
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Neil Monteith 2014
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* *
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Artificial Insemenation
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26
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15m
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Straight up the wall on the big breaks and pockets to crimpy finale.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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* *
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Road to Nowhere
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24
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15m
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Start as for AI but at bulge step up left then up wall to the top scoop.
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Matt Brooks, 2014
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Project 1
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Partially bolted roof flake traverse thing
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Ladder Project
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Partially bolted project
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Corner Roof Route
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7m
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Might be a project? Short corner then left under roof. No anchor.
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