Terrey Hills

10 minutes

Shade all day


A pleasant small little crag. Some of the old bolts are manky and top roping is the game. The crag faces south east, so it can be a bit cold in winter. Avoid the place if its rained recently, and beware of leeches and mozzies. The access passes through high conservation value Duffy Forest, home of the rare and unique Grevillea caleyi, so please tread lightly.


The crag is located in bushland between Mona Vale Rd and the Terrey Hills Tip. If coming from the Northern Beaches side, pass Kimbriki Rd on the left, then look for a pullout near the top of the hill. Park here and walk 100m on the bush side of the guard rail until you reach a locked gate and the telecommunications tower. If coming from the city side, go past to the Kimbriki Tip entrance and turn around. Follow the old track past the towers, past another abandoned building, then take the left hand track that soon becomes a cairned path until you are above the crag. Descend to the right (facing out).

Climbs described left to right (facing the cliff). Most of the climbs are marked.

The first seven climbs are in a small ampitheatre hidden behind some bushes.

Warmup Crack 15 3m
The short thin hands crack on the left wall.
C V1 3m
A one move boulder problem. No pro.
BTH ?? 3m
The gap between the perpendicular walls.

The bolts on the following three mini routes are mank; so highball or toprope.

S 22 4m
1m right of BTH. A really hard first move, but easier if you're tall. 2 BRs
* T 18 4m
1m right of S. 2 BRs. Lovely layaways up the arete. Take care with the thin flake at the top.
MA ?? 3m
1m right of T. 1 BR.
CS ?? 4m
2m right of MA. Mantel then cam in break.
* Sexy Mamma 21 8m
Arete 2m right of CS. 2 rusted BRs. Great moves off the ground then hard mantle and easily up.
Buxom 22 10m
Blunt arete 3m right of SM. Up the steep pocketed wall and over the rounded buxom arete. 2BR (apparently?) probably worthless. Take cams, highball or toprope.
Baby Face 25? 10m
Marked. Between Buxom and MM, staying out of the MM crack.
MM ?? 10m
2m right of B. Please clean the start of this nice looking crack.
Agronomist 24 10m
2m right of MM. Up the thin overhanging wall to diagonal groove up high. 3 manky BR. Single manky BB. Vegetation is slowly reclaiming this route unless you get to work.
EC ?? 10m
5m right of A. Wall 1m left of corner crack. Looks good but needs new bolts or toprope.
Bonza 16 10m
Please keep climbing this line so it stays clean. A pleasant route.
* * FTH 20 12m
1m right of B. Bouldery start with a thin, technical move past the 3rd BR. Bad bolts.

There is possibly another route right of FTH on equally shitty bolts.

* * Orgasmotronic 22 12m
10m right of FTH. Head diagonally left up the airy arete past 4 rusty BRs.
A 6 12m
1m right of O. Blocky low angled corner passing wooded ledge.
RR ?? 10m
Start as for A. From ledge head up right side of gully past 2 manky BRs.
* Doctor T. 25 10m
Prow 4m right of RR past 2 BRs (1st is good, 2nd is hideous).
Good Times 15 8m
Up the juggy wall and across the slab. Single BB. Top rope only.
Contrived ?? 5m
Thin crack just right of corner, 4m right of GT.
BTU 23 7m
0.5m right of C. Squeeze them in! Up steep pocketed wall past 2 manky BRs.
PS ?? 5m
1m right of BTU. Thin dirty crack.
Dysphemism 25 7m
1m right of PS. Up the overhanging pocketed wall to the thin diagonal crack in the blank wall. Two manky BR's well past their use-by date.
GC ?? 6m
2m right of D at crack. Up the filthy looking crack.
* * Euphenism 22 9m
5m right of BTU on same pocketed wall. Up the overhanging pocketed wall. 3 new FH. DBB
* FARC 25 8m
Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia. 2m right of E, before arete. Easy overhanging pocketed start to very thin bouldery finish. 2 new FH. Single BB.
SLC ?? 7m
2m right of F, on right side of arete. 1 manky BR up high.

5m right of SLC is an ugly looking offwidth corner crack.

Saffron Pelican 22 10m
Tasty. 15m right of F, 1m right of arete, on short east facing wall. Slightly overhanging start (cams), to rounded edge and up. 2 bad bolts, DBB
Tangerine Canard 16 10m
2m right of SP. Up the vertical edges. 3 new BR's 2 old BRs and cam in break to start. BB

About 50m on is a nice looking pocketed wall about 5m high with some nice top rope problems. 75m further on from that (just past a long low undercut section) is another nice pocketed wall that tends to be a little damp.

Cravin' Sarah 16 10m
100m R of TC at the highest part of the wall. Up the pocketed wall. 2 BR & DBB (all SS). Worth the walk.
Andrew Wilkinson, Andrew Massey, Matt Ryan 1994