Tambourine Bay
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5 Minutes
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Crag faces east and south
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Bouldering and toproping
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Introduction
Tambourine Bay is a pleasant secluded little bay with numerous small cliffs dotted around the shoreline. Most of the clifflets are 10m high and are suited to either highball bouldering or a lazy afternoon of toproping. The easy access and park facilities make it family friendly. The main crag (western side of bay) has sandy rock and provides shady toproping with moderate grades. The eastern sector comprises several short walls on excellent steep rock and is a popular bouldering area.
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History
The recorded climbs at the main crag were first written up by Ian Ryan. Most of these routes were either soloed or led, however most are probably better described as toprope or boulder problems. Information on routes at the eastern sector is sketchy, and most details have been determined by locating old bolts and climb initials, plus notes from Scott Campbell published in Peter Balint's bouldering guide.
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Access
Park or leave your bike at Tambourine Bay Reserve car park. Walk south past the historic wells to the main crag following the power lines, or head east through the park past the BBQs and down to the water to get to the eastern sector. Toilets located between car park and historic well.
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Main Crag
A fun play area somewhat reminiscent of Lindfield, but is less extensive. The moderate grades, easy access and toproping facilities will surely appeal. The area is popular with non-climbers and has a bushcare group, so don't screw up access and retrobolt the walls (which are too short to be worthwhile anyway).
Walk south from the carpark along a track past the historic wells for about 5 minutes until you come across a large 10m high isolated boulder with an overhang on the face overlooking the water.
The first three climbs are on the clifflet to the right before the main block. After extensive and careful searching none of the BB's mentioned in the descriptions could be located.
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Across the Void
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18
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10m
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At right side of the front face, below the overhang. Climb up to the overhang and exit this at its highest point. Climb diagonally left across the wall on improving holds. BB.
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FRA: Ian Ryan 2000-07
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Fumble High
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17
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8m
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Arete 1m right of AtV. Up the arete (alternating between each face) to sloping slab. BB.
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FRA: Ian Ryan 2000-07
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Easy Street
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10
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5m
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8m right of FH, at left side of small cave. Gain the sloping ledge then climb to the top. Sloping ledge is covered with a thick layer of green moss. BB.
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FRA: Ian Ryan 2000-07
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These climbs are all located around the main block. There are various bolt anchors on top to assist top roping, you will need bolt plates. The easiest way up onto the block seems to be the north west corner (see topo). Hint: there is a hidden hold on the first ledge. Otherwise solo or lead one of the easier routes. Descent is via a double ring bolt rap. Remaining rusted FHs replaced March 2011.
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To And Fro
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V0
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(Stand)
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The perfect traverse for the beginner. From the far left of the waist high ledge make your way to the far right and back. Balancy.
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Brendon Allan Flanagan 2010
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In the Groove
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20+
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7m
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The first climb on the back wall, just right of a small suffering tree below a faint groove. A shoulder-wrenching move for tall people; shorter folk may need to be ingenious. BB at top.
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Ian Ryan 2000-07
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Cuchulinn
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21
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7m
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2m right of ItG, below a bulge at mid height. Fingery moves to gain a stance below the bulge. Climb this on the left. BB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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Musical Flakes
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13
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7m
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In the middle of the wall below a large hole. Climb up to this hole and then move left and up. A variant also exits right and up. BB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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Andraste
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19
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7m
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In slight groove 2m right of MF. Up groove to sloping holds and continue to top. BB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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Mananaan
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20
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7m
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1m right of A, below smooth wall. Gain a horizontal break then straight up. BB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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View From the Edge
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12
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8m
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Start below the arete at the right side of the back wall. Climb onto ledge then up the arete on solid holds. BB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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Cruel Fate
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19/22
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10m
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Up VFTE to ledge then move down to reach holds on the wall below a horizontal break. Climb this wall to the top. BB. Direct start is worth 22.
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Ian Ryan 2001-08
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Pretty Short Route
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V2
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In the gully on the south side of the block. Start marked PSR.
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Unknown
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*
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Tambourine Dream
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18
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12m
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Start below the overhang on the left side of the front wall, opposite the PSR initials. Boulder up and left onto the south wall, passing some bollards and several breaks (good cams) for a final challenging exit. DBB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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The Weeping
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18
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10m
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As for TD. Climb up to the large flake and move right and continue up. BB.
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Ian Ryan 2001-07
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Mission Impossible
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23
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10m
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Two toprope carrots are located above the middle of the wall facing the water, above a giant hanging flake. A desperate toprope problem.
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FA Unknown
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There is a horrible rusted bolt on the face between K3 and MI, details unknown.
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K3
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18
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10m
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The right arete is marked K3. Climb up the arete on either side. Toprope DBB.
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FA Unknown
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The following climbs are located on the large slab down near the water. A great place to teach beginners the nuances of slab climbing.
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Hole in the Wall
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16
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7m
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Start below the middle of the slab, on the grassy landing next to the water. Climb through fragile bulges and gain the slab. Up to a hole and then awkwardly mantle onto the top. You can escape right at the hole for an easier climb (about grade 12). DBB anchors at top (reached easily for toproping by climbing up the flakes at the back)
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Ian Ryan 2001-08
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Tambourine Man
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18
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13m
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An excellent exercise of faith in friction. Climb 1m L of Hole in the Wall, religiously avoiding using the hole up high.
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Ian Ryan 2001-08
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Can't See The Forest
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14
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13m
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Start as for HITW. Climb the short wall to the ledge and gain the slab at the left end. Climb steeply on good holds to top. Apparently there is a BB at the top.
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Ian Ryan 2001-08
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The V4 problem "Staircase Traverse" is located about 20 meters past the back wall on the right.
Eastern Sectors
From the carpark, walk past the BBQs and down towards the disused swimming pool. Where the track meets the shore you will walk past a clifflet with some cool trees and a chalked corner.
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The Blob
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V5
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The undercut corner on chipped holds.
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Follow the track another 50m beyond the pool and boat sheds and you'll reach a wall with an arete, marked MA. For beta, search for "tambourine bay bouldering" in Youtube.
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Shariks Roof
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V9
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The well-chalked ceiling starting R to L.
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Masked Avenger
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(Highball)
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Marked MA. No details known.
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Scary
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V2
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(Highball)
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In the middle of the wall with a small boulder in front of it.
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FA Unknown
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A further 50m along the track is an extensive series of good walls with some grafitti "Hello Everybody". If you know some more of the problems here please write them up and send them in.
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Hello Everybody
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V5?
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(Highball)
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Boulder up the wall past a manky BR. Good DBB on top for toproping.
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Wall Traverse
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V3
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A technical thin traverse, finishing at the small ledge on the right.
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Right of this wall is an orange cave with good potential for short power problems. Right again is another wall with more scary potential, and finally around the corner are two good shorter problems.
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Cold Start Left
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V2
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Up the arete.
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Cold Start Right
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V2
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Off the pinch.
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