Stanwell Tops

5-10 mins

East facing. Shade all afternoon.

Mix of sport and trad climbs


Three small crags located along the cliff-line below Stanwell Tops, overlooking the lush forests and beaches of Stanwell Park. Stonehaven is a rap in and climb out affair. Rebolting in recent years has made this crag more accessible, but it still needs some traffic to keep it clean. There is loads of rock and potential for more development, particularly at Stonehaven.


Park at the end of Stonehaven Road, Stanwell Tops. Access to The Lookout and Hargraves Wall is via the Wodi Wodi walking track. Follow the walking track (extension of Stonehaven Road) past the Tumbling Waters retreat, along its fence line, cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T-intersection, go left to the fenced lookout area above The Lookout and Hargraves Wall. It is possible to catch the train to Stanwell Tops as the Wodi Wodi track continues down the hill for 1km to Stanwell Park railway station. <br/> To reach Stonehaven, go right at the 1st T-intersection (heading away from the Hargraves fenced lookout area). Take the next left path, then the next left again and follow the white, sandy leafy path for 80m (if you are on a yellow, rocky path you have taken a wrong turn). 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45 degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the top of the Stonehaven climbs.


* Chainsaw 18 19m
Start at the left side of the small cave. Up past 5 RBs to loweroffs.
Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes 19.3.1994
Princess Lauren of Stonehaven 18 20m
Start as for C to the 2nd bolt, then continue to move right on to easier ground past another 4 RBs to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amongst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach. A direct start has also been bolted (stick clip the first bolt at the lip of the cave); grade unknown.
Jason Lammers 19-12-2006
* * Handful 20 18m
5m to the right of C. The arete and left wall, staying close to the arete. Hidden loweroffs.
John Jakimyszyn, Chris Wilmont 26.6.1993
* Unnamed 22 14m
1m right of arete. Up slabby wall to loweroffs.
Shaun Martin 11-10-2006
* Blood 22 15m
About 3m right of H. Out to the right and up to loweroffs.
Shaun Martin 2006
* Syko 15 15m
4m to the right of H. Climb the corner. Lichen and some small ferns are starting to grow in the corner.
Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont 29.3.1993
Shoulders 10 5m
On the ledge above the start of Syko. The crack then up the chimney.
Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont 29.3.1993
Carpeted Green 16 5m
11m to the right of Shoulders. The arete.
Chris Wilmont, John Jakimyszyn 6.4.1993
Bugs 14 5m
Up the wall and the crack 2m right of CG.
Chris Wilmont , John Jakimyszyn 6.6.1993
Lifes Like That 15 12m
Up the short corner to the roof. Move leftwards to the wide crack then grovel to the top. Needs lower off rings!
Chris Wilmont, Mark Parkinson 1995

The next 5 climbs have not been checked.

One Step In The Clouds 21 23m
Toproped. 100m (!) to the right of Bugs. Start on the left side of the ledge. Up the ironstone and right at the top.
Send Down The Clowns 18 21m
5m right of OSITC. 4 bolts. Exposed and runout. Double ropes are a good idea. Start on the ledge at the left end of the overhang (to the right of the 1st bolt) Pull onto wall and up to small ledge. Climb rightwards towards the arete and corner. Up the arete.
Chris Wilmont, Roger Bourne 23.10.1993
Rocks Don't Floss 18 21m
Toproped. 3m right of SDTC. Start at the low cave. Good start to small ledge then left into honeycomb roof. Continue as long as you can (or the fear of a hold blowing off will let you) and gain the wall. Up the short wall to corner and continue up.
For The Birds 22 20m
Toproped. 5m right of RDF. Up the wall. Crux at the top.
Unforgiven 17 17m
3m right of FTB. The crack. Left at the top through the scrub.
Harry Moss & friends 1993

The Lookout

* North Crack 18 10m
10m left of cleft entrance at start ledge below fenced lookout. There is a RB and carrot bolt for belaying. Up the good crack.
Harry Moss 4-3-1993

There is a line of shiny new RBs that starts at NC. The climb then steps right onto the arete and finishes on the face above. Grade unknown.

Sunday the 13th 17 10m
2m left of NC. Crack to cave. Wider crack above cave.
Chris Wilmott 1-12-2009
Eat My Brains 22 13m
Start at the base of S13 then head left directly up wall without using crack. 5 bolts (including 1 belay bolt) and loweroff. The Heart is Pretty Starred (19) is a pikers variant that moves right at the cave and heads up the S13 crack.
John Koster, David Brown 1-9-1996
All Hands on Deck 18 10m
2m left of S13. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave.
Harry Moss 3-4-1993
Up Periscope 19 10m
Toprope only. 3m left of AHD. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.
Harry Moss 3-4-1993

To access the following climbs, scramble down the southern end of the cliff from the fenced lookout.

Bliss 14 8m
Start is reached from the wide ledge at south end of cliff. Climb down from wide ledge above MLC and climb pocketed wall to crack. The wall looks chossy. 25m left of UP.
Chris Wilmott 1993
Mid Life Crisis 19 7m
11m left of B on wall of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave past 3 RBs. Walk off. Natural belay at top.
Chris Wilmott 1-12-1993

Hargraves Wall

Crakarett 20 10m
The arete at the end of the walk down gully. Not on the main wall. Trad gear can be placed in the crack below the 1st RB. Loweroff at top.
Shaun Martin 2006
Cosmic Punk 17 8m
On the main wall at the mouth of the cleft. The small sandy corner.
Dances With Wolves 14 8m
5m to the right of CP. One BR. Climb to the right of the block at cleft mouth, then up the wall.
Chris Sykes, Luke Wilmott 12.1993
Unclimbed 1 8m
Toproped. 3m to the right of DWW at the end of the 2nd block. Up the wall past the left end of the small roof.
Unclimbed 2 8m
Toproped. 3m to the right of U1. Up the wall this time to the right end of the small roof.
* Little Flower 18 9m
3m to the right of U2. Use the holds on the lower flake to get to the horizontals. Rebolted with loweroffs 2006. Direct is grade 20.
Chris Wilmont, John Jakimyszyn 26.4.1993
Kisses The Rock 19 9m
Starts 2m right of LF. The crack like weakness. Rebolted 2006. There are only 2 RBs and a loweroff so it would be a good idea to supplement with trad gear in the breaks.
John Jakimyszyn, Chris Wilmont, 26.4.1993
Blow Hole 19 11m
1m right of KTR. Stay 1-2m right of KTR and don't use any of its holds! Maybe possible to use KTR bolts.
Chris Wilmont, John Jakimyszyn 26.4.1993
Cane Toad 20 11m
2m right of BH. Up the wall to shared loweroff. Retrobolted.
Roger Bourne, Chris Wilmont 16.10.1993
* After The Storm 18 9m
3m right of CT. Wall left of the black stained wall. Shared loweroff. Rebolted.
Chris Wilmont, Roger Bourne 16.10.1993
* Jugs 23 12m
Right of ATS. Nice start which turns into desperate crimping the higher you go. Shared loweroff with NN. Jugs McDougall (21) is the chicken version that moves out left to RB and then to loweroff.
Shaun Martin 2006
* Neville Naiden 22 10m
Easy start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top!
Shaun Martin 2006
Interdependance 14 9m
6m right of NN. A dodgy climb on pure choss. A classic chosspile! The corner below a small eucalypt then diagonally left on ramp.
John Jakimyszyn, Chris Wilmont 30.3.199
Rose By Annie Other Name 18 9m
5m right of I. Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right. 3 bolts to loweroff.
Shaun Martin 23-2-2010
* i-Nanderthol 21 10m
Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared loweroff with RBAON.
Shaun Martin 23-2-2010
* Back To School 20 10m
At obvious orange flake. Up nice flake to horizontals. Exciting last move. Clipping jugs over the top.
Jason Lammers 17-2-2010
* In Lieu of the Gym 23 12m
In small corner near tree in the rock. Up over bulges to streno thin finish. 4 bolts to loweroff.
Jason Lammers 10-3-2010
The Dance Goes On 19 10m
8m right of ILotG. 3m left of the LARGE eucalypt. Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through sandy horizontal breaks. 4 bolts to loweroff.
Chris Wilmont, John Jakimyszyn & Chris Sykes 12.1993

The next 2 climbs look chossy and are in need of cleaning. Don't bother.

Don't Guild The Orchard 17 10m
Toproped. 5m right of TDGO. Pull onto small ledge. Up the wall avoiding the clumps of small orchids. Left at the top to avoid damaging the many native orchids.
At Peace 18 10m
Rig that toprope again! 2m left of the red gum. At the cliff base near the waterfall. Up the wall past small tree to the flake at the red gum. Up the flake.