St Helens Park


Probably the best bouldering crag found so far near Georges River. This cave is full of classic boulders and will guarantee a fantastic day out whatever your climbing ability. The cave itself stays virtually dry no matter the conditions, but is however known to seep after an extended period of rain.


Drive down to Meredith Cres, St Helens Park. And look for the gate leading into Mary Brookes Park. On foot, follow the tarmac strip and turn right heading down the dirt road till you reach a metal gate. Continue past the gate and turn left at the T-junction. Follow the road around for another 100 metres or so, till you see a pile of rocks near the left turning bend on the right side of the road. At this point head straight into the bush following the piles of rock’s straight down to the creek line. Once you can see the creek, turn left and follow it down another 50 metres or so till you see the large cave.

Project 1 (Stand)
Half a metre left of Nukproof. Stand start from shallow pockets.
* * * Nukproof V9 (Stand)
Stand start RH in 4 finger pocket, LH in 2 finger pocket. To LH pocket, then crimps, dyno to slopey crimp. Up, then committing move to left hand jug at the break.
Dribble V7 (SDS)
Start matched on sloped shelf in large hole. Tricky moves to to large bowl at lip, then right to finish in the break.
Project 2 (SDS)
Start on two undercling slopers, up to left facing horn and a large LH sloper. Head left and finish as for Dribble.
* * Max I Am V8 (SDS)
Start LH on undercling jug and RH on large pinch. Burly moves to gain lip, heading right to edge and small pocket, then to break.
Project 3 (SDS)
Start as for Max I Am. Make big moves right to gain the rail of Ice Eyes and finish as for that problem.
* * Ice Eyes V7 (SDS)
Start on flat jug about 1 metre right of Max I Am. Traverse left to thin rail like edge large enough to match. Tricky move to a left pocket then finish as for Max I Am.
* * Jazz Heart V5 (SDS)
Start as for Ice Eyes. Left to some pockets and then a big move to a good edge. Follow the holds up right to break.
* * Bank Roll V3 (SDS)
Start as for Ice Eyes. Follow right features to break.
* * Rogers Hitman V6 (SDS)
Start LH undercling, RH on forward facing crimp. Out to large hole then right to break.
* * * Style Cat V6 (SDS)
Start as for Rogers Hitman. Head right to 4 finger pocket, big moves to jugs on lip, then desperate move up to break.
* * * Red Alien V11 (SDS)
Start matched on right facing undercling. Head left to large pocket and sharp crimp with thumb catch. Hard moves to large left hand pocket, then up to break.
* * Blue Alien V10 (SDS)
Start as for Red Alien. Difficult moves to shallow pockets on lip then left to break. Eliminate: the right jug pocket in Lektra Ice is "off".
* * Lektra Ice V8 (SDS)
Start matched on right facing undercling. Move left to shallow pockets, then hard moves to gain large pocket on lip. Finish in break.