South Coogee

Morning sun. The crag seeps quite badly after rain.

Sea cliff


A 40m long by 10m high patch of excellent but dead blank sandstone, with a lot of dodgy bolts and chips thrown in for good measure. The crag is located below Alexandria Parade, South Coogee, with a large dodgy "bolt" being the main landmark on top of the cliff. Apart from "Get a Rat Up Ya", almost none of the routes are suitable for leading, since most of the bolts are very badly weathered. Many of the belay bolts were replaced during the 90s, however, so top roping is a good option. Although the rock is excellent and many of the routes are worth doing, the crag has a bad tendency to seep. Apparently this has only started occuring in the last 10 years or so as a result of local landowners dumping their lawn clippings on the cliff side of the road.


To get there by public transport, catch a 372, 373, or 374 bus to Coogee Beach and walk south along the clifftop track (through Grant and Trenerry Reserves) until you reach the crag. Alternatively, you can park in Alexandria Pde. If you're walking south from Coogee Beach, you can scope out the state of the crag from the start of the boardwalk in Trenerry Reserve, about 200m north of the crag.

Climbs are described south to north (left to right, facing the cliff).

A ? 8m
Starts under the massive rooves, 50m south of the main wall. Can only be accessed at low tide and with a small swell. Apparently people have bouldered here in the past as well. Follow 2 or 3 bolts to fixed carabiner lower off. All of the bolts are hideously rusted.
Wop Bop Baloo Bop 26 15m
Start at far left hand end of main wall. Up to BR just above lip, traverse left then follow 3 BRs to the top. All of the bolts are very badly weathered.
Mike Law 1980s
SKP 29 15m
Immortalised by the photograph of Claw dogging on the bolt which appeared on the front cover of the 1991 Rock guide. Head up to the first BR on WBBB, then straight up the wall above, passing 1 (?) more BR. The bolts are all badly weathered.
Mike Law 1980s
Beef and Chips 27 15m
3m right of SKP. Straight up the wall, passing 4 BRs. All of the bolts are hideously rusted.
Mike Law 1980s
Mark's Unnamed 24 15m
At the first BR of BaC, tend right past 3 more BRs. All of the bolts are badly weathered.
Mark Colyvan 1980s
Gash Rash 21 15m
10m right of MU. Up to first bolt on GaRUY, then traverse left and up past 4 more BRs to double BBs (?). All bolts are badly rusted.
Paul Colyvan 1980s
* Get a Rat Up Ya 23 15m
Start directly below the big dodgy "bolt". 5 BRs to double bolt (?) belay.
Paul Colyvan 1980s
Fuck My Dog 21 15m
2m right of GaRUY. 3 rusty BRs to double BB (?).

The following two climbs are located on the big block lying in front of the main wall.

Come On Aussies 23 10m
Starts on the small block below the middle of the southern face of the huge block. Jump onto the wall then up past two badly rusted BRs.
Mike Law 1980s
Jenny's Arete 16 10m
Right of CoA. Up the arete, passing one badly weathered BR.

Back to the main wall.

* Head Hi Takl 23 12m
About 8m left of the big dodgy bolt. Thin and tenuous climbing past 2 rusty BRs to a triple bolt belay.
Mark Colyvan 1980s
All in Brawl 23 12m
3m right of HHT. Up past 2?? BRs to double BBs (?).
Mark Colyvan 1980s
B 21 10m
Obvious chipped top out jug on top. 5m right of AiB. Three badly weathered BRs to a double bolt belay (?).
C 18 10m
Right of B. Reachy mantel practice. Two hideously rusted BRs lead to a double bolt belay (bolts hidden under small bush).
* D 23 10m
5m right of C. Traverse right a little, then slap up the steep prow. May be safe to lead (check the bolts first though!).