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Crag faces north |
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IntroductionAn extensively developed area with lots of blank looking bolted slab routes. A good winter crag since it faces north and gets the sun from about 10am onwards. Despite the low angle of some of the rock, most of the routes here look to be in the middle grades. The slab is surprisingly blank for Sydney sandstone, so it's a great place to practice friction climbing. Be careful of the bolts here - while most are quite well set, many are pretty rusty from continual water runoff from the top. Be very careful of cars (and trail bike hoons) since you will be belaying on the road for most of the routes. Take a couple of long slings for the belays - there are no belay bolts on top of the crag. The top of the crag is quite loose, helmets are highly recommended! |
HistoryThe crag was apparently developed back in the 1980s by Nat Nicholas, but unfortunately all of the information seems to have disappeared (along with Nat). The following names, grades and descriptions are therefore not the original ones. If anyone has any info, please let me know! |
AccessTo get there, drive out along the Putty Rd until you reach the Colo River bridge. Turn left (west) onto the Upper Colo Rd and follow it for about 4.5kms. The crag looms up over the road to the left. |
Climbs described left to right (east to west), facing the cliff.
The following 7 routes are on the smaller, 40m wide wall that is reached first.
| A | ?? | 12m | |||
| At the left hand end of the small cave in the middle of the slab. 4 BRs. | |||||
| B | ?? | 12m | |||
| 4m right of A. 4 BRs through small overlap at top. | |||||
| C | ?? | 12m | |||
| 4m right of B. 3 BRs. | |||||
| D | ?? | 14m | |||
| 3m right of C. 4 BRs. | |||||
| E | ?? | 14m | |||
| 2m right of D. 4 BRs. | |||||
| F | ?? | 14m | |||
| 5m right of E at left edge of cave. 3 BRs, runout between 2nd and 3rd. | |||||
| G | ?? | 12m | |||
| 15m right of F on right edge of cave. 2 BRs up right edge of cave, then up left side of sharp arete past 2 more BRs. Chossy rock and poorly placed bolts - be careful! | |||||
A descent gully splits the crag at this point.
| H | ?? | 12m | |||
| 15m right of G at twisted tree root. 5 BRs. | |||||
| I | ?? | 17m | |||
| 10m right of H (2m right of small cave). 5 BRs up slab and orange streak. | |||||
| J | ?? | 17m | |||
| 2m right of I. 6 BRs. | |||||
A big chossy cave starts here, high up on the wall.
| K | 18 | 17m | |||
| 4m right of J, below cave. 1 BR in yellow slab, 1 BR in chossy roof (take care!), FH out on lip then 2 more BRs up headwall. | |||||
| L | 17 | 15m | |||
| 15m right of K (5m right of right hand edge of cave). 4 rusty BRs up slab and steeper headwall. | |||||
| M | 22 | 15m | |||
| 4m right of L. Hard start, then eases off after the 2nd bolt. 2 rusty BRs to vegetated corner. Take natural gear. | |||||
| * * | N | 22 | 15m | ||
| 2m right of M. 4 rusty BRs then runout up high. | |||||
| O | 20 | 15m | |||
| 2m right of N. 3 BRs, runout between 2nd and 3nd (natural placements may be possible). | |||||
| * * | P | 19 | 15m | ||
| 4m right of O. Up between small caves at half height. 4 BRs. | |||||
| Q | 17 | 15m | |||
| 2m right of P. Over small overlap at half height (crux). 4 BRs. | |||||
| R | 14 | 13m | |||
| 3m right of Q. 3 BRs up slab to slimy, mossy headwall. | |||||