Rocky Point

Various sun and shade options exist

Bouldering on the beach


Rocky Point (also called Wyargine Point or The Island) separates Edwards Beach from Balmoral Beach in Mosman. There are problems to be found on all sides of the point, although the best rock and problems are found on the northern side. The rock has been described as "Sandystone". Landings include sand, rock, picknickers and broken glass.


Find your way to Balmoral Beach - its the obvious rocky promontory in the middle. There is paid parking for your Merc or Beemer on the Esplanade, or free parking for cheapskates 50m back up Awaba St.

The Bridge

* Rightside Lip Traverse V0
Start a few metres left of the concrete bridge, once your bum isn't going to scrape the ground. Heelhook traverse leftwards along the lip for about 15 metres, noting the ground dropping to about 3m below, and one obvious rock not to land on. A fun pump for both arms, your right hamstring and your left tibialis anterior!

There are a few short up-problems underneath the long lip traverse. There's also some good slopers on the lip for static hang problems.

Middle Cave Traverse V1
About 40m L of the bridge is a sandy little cave, about 3m high and 10m wide. Traverse the cave from R to L, only using holds in the roof beneath the lip. Yes, this is a bit contrived and you could also traverse using holds above the lip but its boring jugging, they'd often snap, and you'd want a mat.

The Left Cave

Probably the most "impressive" bit of rock in this vicinity. The roof flakes look (and are) very sandy ... but are hefty enough to seem quite solid. A quick brush and they seem fine. There is a good looking problem linking the flakes from left to right along the 8m roof, then finishing up the 4-5m headwall ... all it needs is someone with a brush, mat(s), spotter(s) and strong shoulders.

* Flake to Wafer V3
Start at the bottom left of the Left Cave. Out the fairly easy flake, drop down R onto a fingery flake/rail, then throw up R onto a wafer. The wafer looks snappable but has survived so far.
Left Cave Bashup V1 (Highball)
There are a few very old and very crap rusty carrots up the headwall on the left side of the Left Cave. You could highball this provided none of the wafer jugs snapped and sent you plummeting. Start on the left side of the Left Cave.
Corner Bashup V3 (Highball)
Start 8-10m L of the left cave. The small buttress has a left-facing corner with a few crappy carrots. Rock quality seems relatively good, might be a good toprope or highball.
Handcrack Trainer V0
Start about 25m L of the Left Cave. You need to scramble over some big-ish boulders to where the fig tree is. A perfect handcrack! Unfortunately if you stand on the tree roots you can put hands on top. But you can get some good jamming practice by choosing some crappy footers and laddering your handjams up and down the crack incy-wincy style.