Planet Clare

Bold "grit style" climbing


A south east facing crag that was originally developed back in the 1980s by Barry Jones. The few bolted lines at the crag date from that era. The real attraction of the crag is its recent reinvention as a grit style crag, complete with British E grades, dubious natural protection and extremely hard moves. The well publicised climb "The Desire Factor" (E7 6a) was put up here back in 1996, and Steve Kelly (the first ascentionist) put up a string of other hard routes before moving to South Australia. There are also a number of E9 projects still awaiting first ascents.


Park as for "The Temple of Doom" and follow the same track east. When you get to a burnt out car wreck (where you turn left to go to the Temple), turn right and follow the track down to the right hand end of the crag. Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff.

Entry Wall

There are three routes (grades 17 to 19) on the right hand wall (facing out) of the descent gully.

A 24/25 12m
Under the low level roof where the descent gully reaches the bottom of the crag. Out the roof.
Spider Line 17 12m
Middle of wall, left of A. Up the wall.
Canadian Club 14 12m
Corner left of SL.

Lust for Life Wall

The wall extending to the left of CC.

Lust for Life 24 12m
Up the middle of the wall, following the BRs.
Gav's Slab Problem 25 12m
The blunt arete left of LfL. Up, following the RBs. Double RB lower off.

Project Wall

B (Project) ?? 12m
Just left of corner. Partially bolted line.
It'll Never Go 25 12m
Towards left hand end of project wall.
Jason's Return 25 12m
Between ING and arete marking left end of project wall. Up.

Fuzzy Chicken Prow

The prominent prow with the dumped car at the base.

Fuzzy Chicken 23 12m
On left hand side of the prow. Up, using a chipped hold. Lower off.
Chicken Without Chips 24 12m
Up as for FC, but without using the chipped hold.
Dave's Vision 19 12m
At arete at left hand end of low angled slabs. Up the crack weakness just next to the arete.
C (Project) E9 12m
Just around arete from DV. Up. Minimal gear.

3 Cracks Wall

D 16 12m
Corner left of the project. DRB lower off.
* The Desire Factor 25 12m
Arete left of D. Steep, bold arete with the only protection in a horizontal break just above the last of the difficulties. English grade: E7 6b.
Steve Kelly 1996-08
Big Heavy Fridge 23 12m
In middle of wall left of tDF.
Bohemian Footstacker 18 12m
Just left of corner left of BHF, and just right of dead tree.
Mike's E5 23 12m
At dead tree. English grade: E5.
Right Arete 21 12m
Arete left of ME5.
Left Arete 23 12m
The next arete left of RA.
The Blackboard 18 12m
Left of LA.
E 24 12m
Left of TB. Only known to have been toproped.
Mondo Madness 21 12m
Left of E. Up past mono.
Harm's Way 21 12m
Offwidth left of MM.