|
Bold "grit style" climbing |
|
IntroductionA south east facing crag that was originally developed back in the 1980s by Barry Jones. The few bolted lines at the crag date from that era. The real attraction of the crag is its recent reinvention as a grit style crag, complete with British E grades, dubious natural protection and extremely hard moves. The well publicised climb "The Desire Factor" (E7 6a) was put up here back in 1996, and Steve Kelly (the first ascentionist) put up a string of other hard routes before moving to South Australia. There are also a number of E9 projects still awaiting first ascents. |
AccessPark as for "The Temple of Doom" and follow the same track east. When you get to a burnt out car wreck (where you turn left to go to the Temple), turn right and follow the track down to the right hand end of the crag. Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff. |
There are three routes (grades 17 to 19) on the right hand wall (facing out) of the descent gully.
| A | 24/25 | 12m | |||
| Under the low level roof where the descent gully reaches the bottom of the crag. Out the roof. | |||||
| Spider Line | 17 | 12m | |||
| Middle of wall, left of A. Up the wall. | |||||
| Canadian Club | 14 | 12m | |||
| Corner left of SL. | |||||
The wall extending to the left of CC.
| Lust for Life | 24 | 12m | |||
| Up the middle of the wall, following the BRs. | |||||
| Gav's Slab Problem | 25 | 12m | |||
| The blunt arete left of LfL. Up, following the RBs. Double RB lower off. | |||||
| B (Project) | ?? | 12m | |||
| Just left of corner. Partially bolted line. | |||||
| It'll Never Go | 25 | 12m | |||
| Towards left hand end of project wall. | |||||
| Jason's Return | 25 | 12m | |||
| Between ING and arete marking left end of project wall. Up. | |||||
The prominent prow with the dumped car at the base.
| Fuzzy Chicken | 23 | 12m | |||
| On left hand side of the prow. Up, using a chipped hold. Lower off. | |||||
| Chicken Without Chips | 24 | 12m | |||
| Up as for FC, but without using the chipped hold. | |||||
| Dave's Vision | 19 | 12m | |||
| At arete at left hand end of low angled slabs. Up the crack weakness just next to the arete. | |||||
| C (Project) | E9 | 12m | |||
| Just around arete from DV. Up. Minimal gear. | |||||
| D | 16 | 12m | |||
| Corner left of the project. DRB lower off. | |||||
| * | The Desire Factor | 25 | 12m | ||
| Arete left of D. Steep, bold arete with the only protection in a horizontal break just above the last of the difficulties. English grade: E7 6b. | |||||
| Steve Kelly 1996-08 | |||||
| Big Heavy Fridge | 23 | 12m | |||
| In middle of wall left of tDF. | |||||
| Bohemian Footstacker | 18 | 12m | |||
| Just left of corner left of BHF, and just right of dead tree. | |||||
| Mike's E5 | 23 | 12m | |||
| At dead tree. English grade: E5. | |||||
| Right Arete | 21 | 12m | |||
| Arete left of ME5. | |||||
| Left Arete | 23 | 12m | |||
| The next arete left of RA. | |||||
| The Blackboard | 18 | 12m | |||
| Left of LA. | |||||
| E | 24 | 12m | |||
| Left of TB. Only known to have been toproped. | |||||
| Mondo Madness | 21 | 12m | |||
| Left of E. Up past mono. | |||||
| Harm's Way | 21 | 12m | |||
| Offwidth left of MM. | |||||