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10 minutes |
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Not much, south facing |
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IntroductionAn extensive area of cliffs located just south of the Sydney South Substation on Henry Lawson Drive. |
HistoryThe original development here went on in the early '60s with scout groups from Revesby and Padstow. The main area was on the other side of the ridge from Blackwall where the cliffs were higher. Climbs were top-roped and used for abseil practice for climbing and caving. As this was the early '60s not many climbs were led but there was not much around in the way of gear - steel crabs and laid nylon and manilla ropes. None of the routes were named but pretty much everything that could be climbed was, starting with the cracks. There may have been a more recent wave of activity in the 1980's and 2000, but nobody has come forward with any details. |
AccessTo get to the crag, drive along Henry Lawson Drive, and park opposite the Sydney South Substation. Hop the locked gate, pass a tank to your right and follow the track for about 200m, looking for a track leading off to the left. Follow this down to the crag, which extends off to the left (facing out). It's easier to park down on the foreshore road and walk up the hill to the crag, but the gate at the top of the foreshore road is sometimes closed. The crag is located within the George's River National Park. Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff. |
| Chimknee | 13 | 15m | |||
| Up the chimney then out onto the wall above. | |||||
| Junk Mail | 17 | 10m | |||
| Up the wall (BRs?). | |||||
| UFA Variant | 17 | 10m | |||
| Up crack to ledge then move right to join UFA. | |||||
| * | UFA | 17 | 10m | ||
| Up the wall (4 BRs) | |||||
| Cranking Like a Lemon | 20 | 10m | |||
| Up the crack (2 BRs) then strenuously up (cam) to top. | |||||
| Love's a Buzz | 21 | 10m | |||
| Up past pocket. 2 BRs and wigglies. | |||||
| A | M1? | 10m | |||
| 30m right of LaB. Old aid route (BR, PR). | |||||
The following climb is located just right of the overhanging wall in the middle of the cliff (about 50m right of the Black Wall). Yianni and Justin also have about a dozen hard (grade 25+) trad projects that tackle the overhanging wall, and there is potential for quite a few more.
| X Mint Time | 21 | 20m | |||
| Marked "X", 4m right of the overhanging wall. Sustained climbing up the steep wall (natural gear). | |||||
| Yianni Bathelmess, Justin Franks 1999 | |||||