Palmer Close
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5 minutes
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All day sun
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Introduction
A small north facing crag with wonderful views onto the river below. Unfortunately the rock seeps heavily and vegetation covers many starts. Access is also a bit annoying with thick lantana along the base. Only worth a visit if you are a local.
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Access
Park at 10 Palmer Close, Illawong. Walk towards the river and down hill for 50m to descent gully. Walk 100m right (facing river) to the main steep wall or 20m left to the easy wall. The main wall is located directly below 20 Palmer Close.
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Easy Wall
50m right (facing cliff) of the descent gully is a narrow buttress of good quality grey rock. There are ring bolt notches down the left side but no recorded routes. Potential for 4 or so sub 20 climbs and maybe one thin face route.
Main Wall
Routes listed left to right.
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*
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MK ultra
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24
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8m
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Starts below subtle orange corner crack with ferns sprouting out of the base. Up corner for 5m then traverse right (scary clip) and across horizontal break then through bulge to finish at rings on the left.
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Cameron Taylor 2007
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The next four routes all share the same start. Look for the hideous rusty FH below a hanging arete.
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Unnatural Selection
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24
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10m
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About 4m of actual worthwhile climbing. Up overhung jugs and mantle left onto heavily vegetated ledge. Climb the left line of bolts up the bulges above to a powerful crux at the end. Try and stay off GL.
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Cameron Taylor 2007
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Guiding Light
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19
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10m
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Climb onto vegetated ledge as for previous route. Now climb the right line of juggy holds up the bulge above.
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Cameron Taylor 2007
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Uprising
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16
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10m
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Same start past manky FH then straight up arête for three rings then half way up break left and run it out to top on jugs.
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Cameron Taylor 2007
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*
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Exogenesis Symphony
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21
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13m
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The steep arete. Nice looking upper half - shame about the start. Same start as previous routes then straight up the overhanging prow finishing around to the right through very steep wall.
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Cameron Taylor 2007
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The next three routes have unknown origins and look partially bolted and cleaned.
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Unfinished Project
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13m
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Starts 6m right of ES. A fixed hanger and ring are visible way up high. Missing bolts in the middle and start looks horribly vegetated.
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Mystery Route
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13m
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Same start as previous route. Line of rings starting between ferns then heading out right up orange steep wall. Mantle small ledge and finish out right. May not have been climbed. Start seeps badly.
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Seeping Mess
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13m
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5m right. Appalling seeping overhang to start past a ring and rusting hanger then left across dirty chimney to ledge. Possibly wins the award for ugliest climb in Australia.
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