Old Baldy Lower

30 mins uphill

Southerly aspect means shade in summer.


Little Capertee Camping Area

Climbs are described from left to right, facing the cliff. Use the Diarrhoea Chimney Track to access the far left end of the Old Baldy Lower Cliff. Routes from Gollum to Homesick start on a ledge above a lower cliffline. The ledge continues about 40m left of Gollum and finishes 15m left of a large, sandy cave. Access to this ledge is via a scramble up route which starts 80m left of Garbage Guts Gully, which is 220m left of the top of the Diarrhoea Chimney Track. 'Up here to climbs' is marked in faint, disappearing paint. Scramble up 6m to the top of a block. Look up to see two faint painted arrows pointing the easiest way up a weakness to a large ledge. You will arrive midway between Anthrax Ripple and Homesick. The section of cliff faces west.

Gollum 14 55m
Has a great second pitch but the first might put you off. Start 25m right of the large sandy cave in a loose looking yellow corner. 1. 25m Up the corner and flakes to a tree anchor on the ledge. 2. 15m Up the good right-facing corner crack to tree. 3. 15m Up as you will to the top.
Mike Law, Pete Taylor 13-9-75
Smeagol 17 55m
Steep and exciting climbing. Start 10m right of Gollum at two cracks in a corner, converging on a tree. Start at the right-hand crack. 1. 25m Up the right-hand crack then corner to belay at base of chimney/cave. 2. 30m (17X) Up the chimney, out to the lip (sandy rock) and up the fine, steep corner above. Tree anchor.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 26-10-74
Yagi Link 11 50m
Enjoyable problems with an amusing finish. Start 20m right of Smeagol in a small corner next to tree. 1. 25m (11) Up the corner and over the broken bulges and overhang to ledge. Boulder thread anchor. 2. 25m Right into huge chimney and up it easily to top. Tree anchor.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 26-10-74

Note: The good looking right-facing corner crack 30m left and 30m up from the base of What's in a Name? is pitch 2 of Gollum.

* What's in a Name? 14 50m
Good rock, varied and interesting climbing. Start 25m right of Yagi Link below an overhang with cracks on both sides. Start on right side. 1. 30m Follow crack to corner and up to a large ledge. 2. 20m (14) Up corner behind to top.
Hugh Ward, Howard Bevan (alt) 10-3-74
Scottish Legacy 12 50m
Start 15m right of What's in a Name? at a right-facing corner leading to a chimney. 1. 25m Up corner chimney to large tree anchor on ledge. 2. 25m (12) Up the left-hand corner crack to a ramp. Follow corner to ledge, up the chimney then around the overhang to a tree anchor. Easy scrambling to the halfway ledge.
Pete Taylor, Brain Ratter 11-4-74
* Anthrax Ripple 14 50m
An enjoyable, sustained wall climb but run-out. Most people only do pitch 1, but doing both pitches allows you to link up with The Amphitheatre on the Upper Cliff. Start marked 13m right of Scottish Legacy at a small left-facing corner. 1. 25m (14) Up and right then veer back left to a stance on a narrow ledge at mid-height, directly below the left of two corner cracks on the upper wall. Up to a large scrubby ledge. Tree anchor. Rap 24m to deck. 2. 25m Follow gully on right and scramble up the boulders to the top.
Mike Law, Pete Taylor 13-9-75
* * Anthrax Ripple RHV 14 25m
Excellent natural protection. Up and right then up veering right to a stance on a narrow ledge at half-height below the shallow right-facing corner crack. Move up past a good large Hex placement to tree anchor as for Anthrax Ripple. Rap 24m to deck.
FRA Wade Stevens, NiNa Cullen 11-99
Homesick 12 50m
Start 20m right of Anthrax Ripple in corner. 1. 25m (12) Straight up to belay on ledge. Take thin tape for thread runner. 2. 25m (10) Continue past a tree and up (large cams) to top. Note: It is possible to scramble right from the ledge on top of pitch 1 of Homesick all the way (about 70m) to Garbage Guts Gully.
Phillip Armstrong, Roger Murphy 19-5-76
Garbage Guts Gully 5 60m
This gully provides the easiest way up to the halfway ledge from this end of the cliff. It provides the only spot to abseil down from the halfway ledge with one rope. Abseiling, however, is not recommended as the upper parts of the gully are loose. Take care not to dislodge debris if coming down the gully. Start at a chossy looking gully, marked 'GGG' (twice!) 220m left of the top of the Diarrhoea Chimney Track. Up the gully as you will. You will probably need climbing shoes (and maybe even a rope) for one steep bit near the top.
Pete Taylor, Wendy Hasling 7-7-74
* Wild One 20 70m
A huge corner crack. The last pitch provides a magnificent climax to a great climb. There's a bit of plant-life re-establishing itself on the climb. Start 40m right of Garbage Guts Gully in the corner. Scramble up to ledge. The start is marked on the ledge and at ground level. 1. 20m Up short jamb crack to ledge, then strenuously over roof. Continue up to tree anchor. 2. 25m Straight up corner to belay deep in the back of the massive cave. 3. 25m (20) Swing out and muscle over large roof then up magnificent corner to top.
Kim Carrigan, Mike Law (alt), Pete Taylor 14-9-74
Death March 17 60m
Was originally graded 19, but was downgraded in the 1984 guide, but looks (and sounds) under-graded at 17! Start 5m right of Wild One in the next corner. Scramble up to ledge. Marked on the ledge and at ground level. Run pitches 1 and 2 together. Take multiple large cams, including a #4 Camalot. 1. 6m Jamb up to small, blocked chimney ledge. 2. 24m Awkwardly out of chimney and superb jambing up to small stance (good pro). 3. 12m (17) Strenuously up the overhanging dihedral to exit (currently blocked by sticks) to tree anchor. 4. 18m Up easy corner to top.
Rick White, Colin Monteath 20-2-71
Sarsparilla Slabs 10 24m
The scramble up to this climb is marked 'SS' and starts under a large orange overhang and undercut arete to the left of Scunge Gully, about 30m right of Death March. Scramble up 6m onto ledge. Walk left along ledge, passing a large tree after 5m (the start of Sarsparilla Slabs Variant Start) to the right-facing corner 6m left of this tree. The route description has not been checked so treat the following description with scepticism. 1. 9m Up crack in right-facing corner and left onto ledge at foot of chimney. 2. 15m Up chimney for 9m onto ledge. Up next chimney to exit right to corner and wall.
Dave Turner, Eric Saxby, Sandra Cosgrove 1964
Sarsparilla Slabs Variant Start 15 30m
Not a great deal of protection. This is a climb in its own right despite the name. Start at the tree 6m right of Sarsparilla Slabs. Climb tree, onto wall then wander up and eventually to the halfway ledge.
John Ewbank, Robert Smith, John Smith 1964 or 1965

A prominent corner 15m left of Scunge Gully has a chipped 'C' at the base. Details of the climb are unknown.

Scunge Gully 8 36m
The name says it all. Start 30m right of the scramble up to Sarsparilla Slabs at the base of the large gully. 'SG' paint is visible from the track if looking up from the right side of the gully. 1. 12m (8) Up dirty crack. 2. 24m Up the middle of the gully then wander left.
George Owens, Ross Johnson (alt), Alan Eagle 29-8-68
Omega et Alpha 7 48m
Gross! Start 12m right of Scunge Gully at the base of a low angled slab/chimney. 1. 12m (7) Up chimney to tree anchor. 2. 12m Wander up right side of gully to base of chimney. 3. 24m Up chimney and easy rock slab to tree anchor. Scramble to halfway ledge.
Ross Johnson, Alan Eagle 26-8-68
The Pulpit 8 39m
Exposed climbing. Most parties only go to anchor 2 and then abseil off. It's just possible to stretch a 50m rope and link pitches 1 and 2 together. Start 6 right of Omega et Alpha on the same level. This is on a ledge 12m up. Start off large block. 1. 39m (8) Up steep, juggy slab trending right to armchair belay (not obvious) on one of the steps on the arete. 2. Wander up the rest of the arete to a 10m wide ledge. 3. Up easy rock to top.
Ian Gaskin, George Owens (alt), Lucy Harrison 1963
* Go! Cat 16 55m
Most people run pitches 1 and 2 together. Start 25m right of The Pulpit on ground level at a fine crack in the wall. 1. 10m (16) Tricky start (crux) up thin crack to base of next small corner. 2. 10m (14) Up small corner to tree anchor. 3. 40m Up chimney or unprotected face on left and corner to top. Descent = double rope abseil to anchor 2, then rap 20m to deck.
P2&3 George Harrison, Ralph Harvey 1970; P1 Pete Jenkins, 'Mungrl' Reynolds 19-10-74
Square 13 40m
A nice, cool chimney. It's advisable to run pitches 2 and 3 together. Start marked with faded paint, 60m left of Diarrhoea Chimney and 5m right of Go! Cat in the open corner below a square roofed cave. 1. 15m (13) Up ramp and niche to ledge. Up and left (#4 Camalot) into corner (or grovel left 2m and stretch across to the next crack) then up to tree anchor. 2. 10m Scramble up blocks inside chimney then exit right to ledge. Poor tree anchor. 3. 15m (13) Up the right-hand crack in the square gully above. Good tree anchor. Descent = abseil 40m to deck off the anchor 3 tree, passing on the outside of the large chockstone wedged in the chimney (take care pulling ropes) or rap 23m to anchor 1 tree, then rap 20m to deck.
Keith Royce, Fergus Bell 18-2-71

From the 1974 guide: 'possible wall route 23m right of Square'.

* Bushrat 17 81m
Start marked 'B' 30m left of Diarrhoea Chimney. Walking left from Diarrhoea Chimney, the track dips down and re-ascends to a narrow bench at the base of the cliff. 1. 25m (17) Step right 4m from the right end of the narrow bench onto the wall at a thin crack right of flakes, then up to a grassy ledge. Crack above to foot-traverse right, then up to a large tree. 2. 46m Right-leading corner/ramp to platform. Traverse right, then crack to sloping shelf. 3. 10m Bridge up to next shelf, then left with care or directly up corner.
John Leicester, Rob Jennsen (alt), Penny Leicester 4-94
Diarrhoea Chimney 9 78m
This incredible natural line was quite a popular climb back in the 60s, but pitch 2 is a bit sandy for today's tastes. The climb was named The Big Chimney by the first ascentionists. Later on, the route was known as Solar Chimney when an extension was added on the Upper Cliffline by Ted Batty and Charlie Ivin. After a later party climbed a more direct variant (Pitch 2 as described here), it became Diarrhoea Chimney. Start 60m right of Square at the base of the very obvious chimney. 1. 27m Up chimney to cave. 2. 33m Up the sandy rock (poor pro) to a good chockstone anchor under roof. 3. 18m (9) Out to end of roof (exposed) and up rest of chimney to tree anchor. Scramble 18m up earth filled fully to halfway ledge.
Charlie Ivin, Ron Carnelli 10-7-60; FA (as described) Ian Gaskin, Lucy Harrison 1964

The Diarrhoea Chimney Track reaches the cliff 10m right of Diarrhoea Chimney.

Mates' Mess 17 48m
Start 30m right of Diarrhoea Chimney at the base of twin cracks to the right of a scrubby corner. 1. 27m Easily up left-hand crack to top of block. Up thin crack which widens briefly to #4 cam to small ledge with niche and small tree. 2. 21m (17) Up continuation crack then step left to large tree. The line continues higher up but is broken by large ledges. Rap off.
FA (14M4) Warwick Williams, Brian 'Auto' Mattick 27-2-71; FFA Tim Day, Wade Stevens 31-12-00
Not Recommended for Children 19 76m
A dangerous excursion up an impressive line. Start 25m right of Mates' Mess in the right-facing corner. 1. 38m (19) Up corner to roof then follow right-hand line past some appalling loose and shattered blocks to a tottering belay. 2. 18m Up chimney to a large roof. Over this gymnastically, then up to tree anchor. 3. 20m Up to ledge and the nice chimney above.
Mike Law, Kim Carrigan 19-10-74
* Occasional Coarse Language 20 50m
Start 6m right of Not Recommended for Children. 1. 25m (18) Ironstone slab (3BRs, wires, #1 cam, 3BRs) to scoop. 2. 25m (20) Make a move up right from belay (BR) then step back left and up to thin left-leaning crack. Follow this through overlap then straight up headwall (3BRs) to semi-hanging 2BB.
Tim Day, NiNa Cullen 3-01-2001

Walking right from Not Recommended for Children, you cross a hillock, then descend through a hole in a jumble of boulders to reach a large, sandy cave (80m right of Not Recommended for Children) on the left side of a large amphitheatre. 20m right of the large sandy cave is a huge flared chimney.

Time Lord 18 65m
A very pushy route. Steep, strange and exciting. 1. 20m (17) Layback traverse the steepening flake over the bulge and into the 'V' above. Up to a bolt belay anchor in the cave. 2. 25m (18) Up the chimney to overhange, drift over the bulge and up the corner to a small tree anchor. 3. 20m Up the overhanging fist jamb crack then up the corner to the top. Tree anchor.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 27-10-74
* Romana 17 73m
A great link-up of three great pitches, A tougher, worthy companion to No Complications. Start as for Time Lord. 1. 25m (17) As for Time Lord pitch 1, but crouch 6m right to tree at No Complications anchor 1. 2. 18m (16) Step back left 3m then exit up and left from sandy cave (BR, small wire) into great corner climbing. Exit right (BR) past tree to small dirt ledge on No Complications. 3. 30m (15) Up wall then move right and up left-facing corner. Small tree anchor. Rap off as for No Complications.
FRA (including FFA P2): NiNa Cullen, Wade Stevens 31-12-2000
* * No Complications 16 57m
A fantastic climb up a good line. The sandbag start has good pro. Some of the trees that are used for belaying are either dead or dying so be careful. Can be split into three pitches. Start 12m right of Time Lord at the small overhang behind a large tree. 1. 15m (16) Strenuously (grade 19?) over bulge then up crack to tree belay. 2. 42m (15) Up continuation finger crack to small dirt ledge. Up wall, step left then follow right-facing corner crack all the way, which widens (take several #4 cams). Save a medium cam for the last moves. Tree anchor on the right. Descent = double rope abseil off the pine tree at the edge of cliff-top then single rope rap off the tree at anchor 1.
Ian Lewis, Pete Morris (alt) 19-10-74
Ichthyosis 14 65m
Steep in places but with an abundance of holds. You will need thin tapes for protection. Run-out. Pitch 2 needs straightening out. Start 6m right of No Complications at the overhang left of the arete. 1. 20m Surmount overhang then right and up arete to ledge. Bolt belay anchor on wall above the large pedestal. 2. 45m Back left to arete, pull over lip then up wall in a right-ward direction to cave. Step left around arete then up thin left-facing corner crack to small tree anchor.
Mike Law, Pete Taylor 14-9-75
An indirect variant start to Unfinished Crack. Poorly protected throughout. Start marked 'UCSV1', 20m right of Ichthyosis at a thin face crack. 1. 25m (19) Up 5m to roof then thin crack for 15m to sloping ledge with blocks on it. Easier up to a bigger ledge. 2. 18m (3) Belly crawl right and grovel along the horizontal ledge to the top of Unfinished Crack pitch 1.
FA (3M4) Dave White, Mike Law 1-9-73; FFA Ian Anger, John Smoothy May 1980
OH-LA-LA! 15 18m
A better way to avoid the first pitch of Unfinished Crack. Quite a good variant. Start on a ledge 15m up the hillside above the track, 18m right of BOOMP-SA-DAISY at the recess before the corner. Up the right-hand corner to chossy roof then traverse left 3m into other corner (piton?). Swing around the next roof and up crack above to big ledge. Tree anchor. Descent = rap off tree
Mike Law, Dave White 1-9-73
Unfinished Crack 13 70m
Not much of a line but seems to have attracted an unwarranted number of variant starts. Start in the corner 3m right of OH-LA-LA! 1. 24m (13) Up to recess, right to crack and up to bush anchor. 2. 18m Traverse right, around arete to corner and up broken rock. 3. 18m Wander left and up to small corner. Tree anchor. 4. 10m Up small wall behind you.
Allan Gordon, George Owens 1965
Mango 14 60m
Start 25m right of Unfinished Crack at twin overhanging corners. Take large pro. 1. 18m (14) Up crack above overhang then continue up crack or wall to cave. 2. 18m Up face or crack to small tree or chockstone anchor above boulder. 3. 24m Up wide crack or face to large tree anchor. Scramble to halfway ledge.
Andrew Stewart, Peter Loder 22-10-72
* * The Last Samurai 20 70m
The inspiring crack line splitting face beneath left end of Upper Baldy. Access: Leisurely 20 minutes walk from Campground. Cross dry creek as for secret swinger then take first small trail uphill marked with cairn. This winds its way around impressive boulders up the hill until arriving at obvious saddle between a very large mound of earth on right where the trail flattens out and contours the slope. (15minutes). Looking up to base of wall from here you will see a large white/yellow patch of rock. The climb starts just right of this. From saddle a stone cairn marks the five minute slog uphill, staying left of large boulders until arriving at base of climb. All bolts are stainless hex bolts glued with industrial epoxy , abseil points are mixture of rings and U-bolts. Start just right of large yellow patch of rock. First pitch can be split in two at obvious belay stance @ 25 mtrs , 6 mtrs above base of crack. For full 50 meter pitch bring triples of camalots size # 0.4 , #0.5 , # 4 and also a #6 (yes!) on top of usual rack. 1. 50m (20) Up face veering left past 7 BR's to base of crack , one move up gains a good cam placement then up never-ending crack to semi hanging DRB at 50m. 2. 20m (20) Re-belay at twin cracks on large ledge above , difficult off ledge onto wall, up a few meters then step right passing 6 BR's on dirty yet solid ironstone to DRB. If intending to access Upper Baldy ignore top anchor for pitch 2 , step left 2 meters to BR , mantle over top and belay at new DUB rap station.
Evan Wells , Marty Doolan 6/8/2015
Viper 16 54m
An enervating route on harsh rock - recommended for the more robust breed of climber. Start approximately 100, right of Mango and about 40m right of the obvious yellow patch of rock below an inspiring crack climb. Start at the wide right-ward curving crack 15m or so above track level. 1. 44m (16) Up crack, then swing over bulge into wide crack. Up to recess where crack widens into a chimney. Squeeze up and eventually out onto a wall and crack. Belay on big tree. Tube chocks recommended. 2. 10m Up thin crack and corner above to top.
Matt Dunstan, Roark Muhlen 19-10-74
The Chain 9 48m
Originally known as Valiant Virgin. Some interesting moves. Protection is fair on the first two pitches, but then improves. Watch rope drag if doing the first two pitches as one. Start 60m right of Viper in the right-facing blocky corner with a small cave in the base. 1. 9m Up sandy corner and onto large blocks beneath overhang then right into corner and up to tree anchor. 2. 9m (9) Up wall beneath lip, over it and up to the base of corner. Belay on lip from multiple small bushes. 3. 15m (7) Straight up easy, clean corner to ledge then right to bush anchor. 4. 15m Up chimney to right then a novelty finish through hole in roof out onto large ledge.
Douglas Moss, George Owens (alt) 1964
Raining Pleasure 22/23 47m
Start up The Chain for 3m to break, then step right (medium cam) and up flake system past small cave, rooflet (#4 cam) and small ledge then small corner to big tree and 2BB on ledge. 14 to 16 BRs (some have FHs).
Stuart Hickson, Linda Stanbury Summer 93/94
* * Secret Swinger 16 55m
A soaring line up a classic, sustained corner. The rock is rotten and loose in places. A popular route that gives good access to the Upper Cliff. Start 20m right of The Chain in the left-facing corner. Starts on a ledge 10m above track level, as does Shrike. It's possible to run pitches 2 and 3 together. 1. 25m (16) A tricky start then straight up the corner to the large cave. Belay at the mouth of the cave. 2. 25m (15) Out over roof with easy but spectacular moves to ledge above (rotten). Over next roof and up the corner to belay at base of wide crack. Retreat is possible from a good tree on the ledge to the left. Rap 48m to deck or continue to top. 3. 10m (15) Originally described as 'up the wide crack to top' but the hand crack on the right gives better climbing. Tree anchor. Scramble with care up the slippery slope to the half way ledge, or descend via tree anchors.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 13-10-74
Shrike 17 35m
Originally started on the wall 2m right of Secret Swinger. However, the lower 6m of the cliff, including the first BR, has fallen away. 1. (17) Start up Secret Swinger then traverse right to BR and start of thin crack just above roof. Up crack to BR then move right to arete and up to tree anchor. 2. Either up wall to top or move left to finish as for Secret Swinger.
Steve Moon, Nat Nicholas (alt) 8-10-83

The Secret Swinger Track reaches the cliff about 10m right and below Secret Swinger.

Polymorphic 14 60m
You will need a large wing-span to get up the wide chimney, but you'll be rewarded with some good hand jambing at the top. Start 120m right of Secret Swinger in the right-facing corner. 1. 40m (14) Up short corner past big flake, bridge around blocks and up wide section above. Hand jamb up corner to tree anchor. 2. 20m Up ramp then traverse across easy face to wide, clean crack. On to top.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 13-10-74
* Ghoul 19 60m
Exposed, sustained and intimidating. Start 10m right of Polymorphic at the obvious wall crack. 1. 40m (19) Up to top of block, heave over roof and up strenuously to scoop. Up diagonal crack (passing a mossy section of wall) to ledge. 2. 20m Up crack and rotten wall to top.
Ian Lewis, Pete Morris (alt) 13-10-74
Xentric 15 60m
Very dirty climbing, not recommended. Take several large cams. Start 80m right of Ghoul just before the avalanche. 1. 40m (15) Up chimney, out to lip then up (very dirty) over two more bulges to tree. Abseil escape possible at twin trees at 30m. 2. 20m Up the gully then up the short wall under the roof. Up right corner to top.
Mike Law, Pete Taylor (alt) 12-10-74
Dance of the Flower Pot Men 17 50m
Pitch 2 goes up a very aesthetic wall. Start as for Xentric. 1. 20m (17) Up chimney as for Xentric for 10m, traverse left along horizontal crack then step down to ledge and belay. 2. 30m Out left then fight jugs to top.
Tom Williams, Adrian Teagus, Steve Moon 16-10-82
* * Room to Move 16 80m
An incredible hand jamb crack. Pitch 2 is reported to be dirty. A good way to access Scimitar on the Upper Cliff. Start 4m right of Xentric, just left of a large avalanche scar. 1. 45m (16) Gymnastically over the roof and up the enjoyable hand jamb corner. Belay on very large ledge. Rap off large gum tree or continue to top. 2. 35m Up the continuation of the crack to tree and up to top.
Ian Lewis, Pete Morris (alt) 12-10-74
Vial 12 60m
A desperate line for desperate climbers. A pile of choss. Start 20m right of Room to Move at a chossy weakness surrounded by crumbly rock and bushes. This is on the right-hand side of the avalanche. 1. 9m Up easily to tree anchor. 2. 36m (12) Up obvious corner on the left. 3. 15m Up miscellaneous rock to top.
John Miller, George Owens (alt) 7-5-71

36m right of Vial is a plaque to Paul Griffiths who was killed whilst climbing Walhalla on the Upper Cliff in August 1962.

Gorgonzola 14 60m
Poor rock at the base spoils an otherwise interesting line. Start 50m right of Vial and 14m right of the plaque in the right-facing corner. 1. 35m (14) Up corner gently to niche below roof (large cam). Finger traverse left out onto wall then over to arete and up to break. Hurry back right into the corner and up past bush to tree anchor. 2. 25m Follow ramp up to base of wall, over this and up to tree anchor.
Mike Law, Pete Taylor (alt) 13-10-74
Crapulence 16 58m
The initial chimney has strange rock formations that would be interesting and aesthetic to anyone else but a climber. Start 20m right of Gorgonzola at a large decaying chimney. 1. 18m Up rotten chimney taking the right-hand side of the roof. Bridge over this to a small stance on the left. 2. 30m (16*) Sustained climbing up corner to tree. 3. 10m Up final corner to top.
Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, Pete Jenkins (alt) 19-10-74
* Warbler 22M0 40m
Sustained climbing. The rock deteriorates near the top. Start (not marked) 20m right of Crapulence at left of two flakes 1m apart. Up left flake 5m then left and up groove (BR). Up and right (3BR) to horizontal break. Left to block then over block to BR. Traverse right 5m to final BR, then up wall trending right to tree anchor in The Slider. Continue up The Slider or rap off.
Steve Moon, Nat Nicholas, John Smoothy 25-10-83
* The Slider 21 60m
Great climbing with an engaging crux. Most rap off after pitch 1. Start 10m right of Warbler in a right-facing corner. 1. 25m (21*) Finger jamb and layback up steepening corner crack then up awkward slab to tree. 2. 35m Up weird cracks and scrubby wall to top.
Ian Lewis, Pete Morris (alt) 13-10-74
The Baldest 17 55m
A bold crux. Start by walking right of The Slider along a short dead end path to a chossy left-facing corner 10m right of The Slider. 1. 25m (17) Up the loose corner to roof and up to tree anchor. 2. 30m Up corner with enjoyable bridging to top.
Mike Law, Dave White 20-5-76

Immediately below The Slider the track drops down 2m then continues contouring east along the base of the Lower Cliff. The Slider Track reaches the Lower Cliff 10m below The Baldest and 10m right of The Slider.

There are no first ascent details for the next three climbs. From the 'carrot' bolts, they probably date from the mid 1980s.

CP 21 11m
Start marked 35m right of The Baldest. Up left side of arete (BR, small cam, 5BRs) to tree anchor. Rap off.
RP ??? 10m
Start marked 2m right of CP at a thin seam 1m right of arete. Wall right of arete (small cam, 5BRs) to tree anchor. Rap off.
TQ ??? 10m
Start marked 1m right of RP. Clamber over loose blocks and up thin corner crack. Step left to tree anchor. Rap off.
Eaten Alive 16 65m
Start marked 'AFC' in a corner 11m right of TQ and 5m left of Chough. 1. 15m Up corner to the base of the flake. 2. 25m (16) Chimney up flake and out onto the crack at the top. Belay at base of corner. 3. Up corner to top.
Bruce Maxwell, John Croker 27-1-85
Chough 20 12m
Start marked 'C' on the wall 55m right of The Baldest and 5m right of the corner marked 'AFC'. Move up and right (BR) then up thin crack. Hardish moves to BR and up to small ledge and bush (large horizontal break, BR). Abseil off 1 bolt belay. BYO tat.
Steve Moon, Nat Nicholas 9-10-83
Mordor 14 70m
Looks sandy and horrendous. Start 15m right of Chough where a wave of rock breaks over some steep sand. 1. 40m Up the rotten slabby gulch. 2. 30m From behind the belay, walk 10m to the back of a cave. Up the cave and exit through a hole, then continue to top.
Rod Young, Philip Armstrong 20-5-76
* * The Divining Line 20 60m
Start 13m right of Mordor and 5m left of Aqualine. 1. 32m (20) Up nose and wall on left (#4 cam, 4BRs) to break. Up left-leaning thin crack then branch off right to gain headwall (BR). Semi-hanging 2BB. 2. 28m (17) Wall (2BR, small cam, BR, #2 cam, 3BRs) to ledge. Tree anchor 8m back on left. Descent = walk right 10m to two trees near top of Aqualine. Rap 48m to deck.
Wade Stevens, NiNa Cullen 5-1-2001
Aqualine 17 56m
Put up in wet conditions. A good first pitch. Take 6'' pro for the second pitch. Start 20m right of Mordor at a block beneath a finger crack starting 6m up. 1. 23m (16*) Up block to base of finger crack, pull into corner with difficulty then up crack to a good tree anchor. Rap off or continue to top. 2. 33m (17) Up the widening line above. Quite classical.
Mike Law, Ian Lewis 3-10-74
Ying Yang 19 20m
Start on the wall 20m right of Aqualine. Up wall, moving right (no pro) onto arete then up to ledge at 10m. Continue as for The Trickster.
Steve Moon, Adrian Teague 17-10-82
The Trickster 12 69m
Hits you with the crux when you least expect it. Start 6m right of Ying Yang in a right-facing corner capped by a large roof. 1. 15m Up corner (sling) to roof, traverse left and up crack. 2. 30m (12) Up right-leading crack to 'V' groove, up this to ledge. Tree anchor. 3. 24m Up corner into gully then left up easier corner.
Philip Julian, George Owens (alt) 1968
* * Zoro's Toaster 17 28m
A fun route. Start 2m left of Zarathustra. Up (2BRs) to ledge then wall and left arete (BR, medium Rock, #1.5 cam, 3BRs) to stance (medium Rock). Traverse 5m right to big tree on Zarathustra. Rap off.
Wade Stevens, NiNa Cullen 24-12-2000
* Zarathustra 15 70m
A very popular and pleasant corner climb. A good first pitch but the upper section is a dirt-filled gully so it's probably best to rap off from the tree at 22m. Start 15m right of The Trickster in the right-facing corner. 1. 40m (15*) Straight up the nice corners past large tree at 22m then follow the corner up to base of large gully. Tree anchor. 2. 30m Easily up the gully to the top.
Pete Taylor, Pete Morris (alt) 12-10-74
Harry Bursts Open 17 55m
Unlikely climbing traversing the wall left of Inversion then an exciting hand traverse to the arete. The bold second pitch and difficulty of retreat deters more ascents. Start as for Inversion. 1. 25m (17*) Up Inversion for 8m to a bush then left to sandy cave. Up 3 left-facing stepped corners then traverse left to arete. Hanging belay (natural pro). 2. 15m (17) Up arete to ledge (poor pro). Peg anchor. 3. 15m Up arete to top.
Tom Williams, Steve Moon 17-10-82
* * Liquid Sky 19 40m
Start as for Inversion. Use double ropes. Two BRs hard to clip. Left and up past horizontal break (#1 cam). Up left-side of arete (manky rock) to the base of 3 left-facing stepped corners (#1.5 cam just below roof). Move right onto wall (BR). Hard moves (2BRs) to horizontal break (medium cams). Up scoops (4BRs) to big ledge. 2BB rap chain, 2BR.
Stuart Hickson, Giles Bradbury August 1984
* * Inversion 18 60m
A tremendous first pitch of bridging and laybacking. The top of pitch 2 tends to collect leaves and sand. It's possible to escape after pitch 1, using the chain at the top of Liquid Sky. Start 25m right of Zarathustra in a large open book corner. 1. 40m (18**) Straight up corner to roof. Layback the bulge to a ledge/cave. Traverse left to the base of a short jamb crack. Step left to Liquid Sky anchor or continue up to ledge and tree. 2. 20m Up the corner with some hard moves to the top. Take care.
Mike Law, Ian Lewis (alt) 12-10-74
* Mopoke 22 40m
An excellent, sustained route. Start at the thin left-ward slanting crack 25m right of Inversion at the top of a steep section of track. This gives a good view of Liquid Sky and Inversion. Up crack (2 pitons used on the first ascent are now missing), veering right at the top to ledge (BR). Move right and up, then back to second BR. Up (BR) to top. Tree anchor.
Steve Moon, Nat Nicholas 2-10-83
* Steppenwolf 21 62m
A good companion route to Woden. Start 8m right of Mopoke at the short jamb crack leading to a ledge with trees. 1. 12m (16) Up short crack to ledge. Tree anchor. 2. 25m (21) Follow left-diagonal crack to a niche then up to tree anchor. 3. 25m (19) Up slab on left leading ramp.
FFA P1 and FA P2 (19M1) Mike Law, Kim Carrigan 15-9-74; FFA P2 Nick Taylor, Mike Law 12-1-75; P3 Matt Dunstan, Rick McGregor 31-1-77
* * Woden 19 55m
A spectacular thin crack up an overhanging wall. Very sustained with few resting places. Start as for Steppenwolf. 1. 12m (16) As for pitch 1 of Steppenwolf to tree anchor on right. 2. 43m (19) Follow the right-hand crack 4m right of Steppenwolf pitch 2 over bulges to top. A dirty finish.
Kim Carrigan, Mike Law 15-9-74
Fire-Power 17 55m
A varied climb involving every climbing technique possible. Pitch 2 has excellent climbing but needs a bold leader. Start 30m right of Woden at the easy angled crack in the wall. 1. 30m Straight up the crack to the overhang. Swing out of overhang and up the line to ledge. Piton anchor, small wires. 2. 25m (17X) Up diagonally to the arete. Up clean slab (no pro) then move back right over crack (#3 RP). Up a series of dirty slabs following the weakness to the top. Tree anchor. Scramble off.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 12-10-74
Arms Race 16 70m
Mixed climbing. Take care with the description - many get lost and end up doing the first two pitches together. Start 20m right of Fire-Power on a short grubby wall below a chimney system. 1. 25m Up short wall to ledge and start of chimney. Up past roofs and follow cracks left-wards to the first of two large trees (even though it looks more obvious to use the second tree). 2. 12m (16) Up the crack above the belay then left-wards to large tree at the corner. 3. 33m Straight up the corner above.
Pete Taylor, Mike Law (alt) 18-11-74
Falcon's Frolics 15 81m
Start 20m right of Arms Race at some blocks and a small ledge with a tree 6m up. 1. 35m (15*X) Up to tree then move right into corner. Great moves up past loose blocks, ledge and tree at 25m, along crack to second tree then right to gully. 2, 20m (15) Up wall on right then along flake to small corner. Up to small ledge. 3. 20m (15) Follow corner till it stops then up wall to huge ledge. Traverse left past bulge to small corner. 4. 6m (15) Up the fist jamb crack to top.
Paul Edwards, Pete Taylor, Pete Jenkins (alt), Owen Manley 26-4-76
* The Weirding Wall 22 54m
Steep and fingery. Very strenuous climbing. Henry Barber did the FFA of this and Flashpoint (Coke Ovens) on the same day to give the Wolgan its first two grade 22 climbs. Start 30m right of Falcon's Frolics at a slight weakness on a glassy wall. 1. 27m (22) Left-leading ramp then wall (no pro so far) and groove to a scoop (hidden BR). Up and left to base of ramp (piton). Up and right then up the overhanging flake to an airy belay on assorted nuts. 2. 27m Up the fierce little wall directly above the belay. Up crack to tree then right and up corner to top.
FA (21MO) Mike Law, Pete Taylor 17-11-74; FFA 'Hot' Henry Barber, Ray Lassman 4-5-74
* * Top of the Pops 25 65m
Strenuous and sustained with some techo moves up a thin, overhanging wall. The original version stepped right into the scoops (now on Smash Hits) where the seam goes blank, but now follows the seam all the way. Rebolted March 2011 (the pitons have also presumably been replaced with bolts), but you still need trad gear. Start (not marked) on a boulder below thin seam 30m right of The Weirding Wall. 1. 40m (25) Stick clip BR. Cruxy up and left past BR. Up the seam (piton, cams) all the way, over a bulge (piton), then move left onto ledge. Sustained climbing (good large wires, piton, BR) up the upper section of seam to a sloping ledge, then traverse right around nose (BR) and up to hanging 3 bolt belay. Rap off. 2. 25m Not very nice and not recommended. Up wall above (BR) to large ledge. Left and up along flake/corner (dirty rock and poor pro) to a final short corner. Up this to tree anchor on edge of cliff.
FA P1 (24M0) Giles Bradbury, Steve Moon, Greg Moore 15-4-84; FFA P2 Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore 9-6-84; FFA P1 Steve Bullen June 1985
* Smash Hits 24 30m
A sustained pitch that gets better and harder the higher you go. Rebolted, but you still need trad gear. Start 1m right of Top of the Pops. Up flake (BR) then around bulge and up (BR). Up scoops (#4 cam) to a BR at the top of the scoops. Step right and up flakes (2BRs). Move left and up to BR (hard to clip). Crux moves lead left and up to the jugs and final BR on Top of the Pops. Hanging 3 bolt belay as for Top of the Pops. Rap off.
FA (23M0) Giles Bradbury 11-6-84 FFA Paul Thompson & Neil Monteith 2014
* * Lysander 19 56m
A superb climb. Most rap off after pitch 1. New anchors installed March 2011. Start 20m right of Top of the Pops in a clean right-facing corner. 1. 25m (19) Up corner and around overhang. Continue up corner to cave. Bolt belay. 2. 25m (17) Continue up next corner to large ledge. 3. 6m Up short cliffline to top.
Kim Carrigan, Mike Law (alt) 14-9-74
* Body Malfunction 23 30m
A good find. Needs a second pitch. Start 7m right of Lysander at a rusty, over-pounded carrot bolt. Hard moves up wall and groove (3BRs) to horizontal break then step through overhang veering slightly right. More hard moves to 2BB on small ledge. 5BRs, cams. Rap off.
Steve Moon, Nat Nicholas Easter 1985

The Lysander Track reaches the cliff about 20m right of Lysander.

Solo Gully

Kin 'Ell 8 33m
An easy chimney. Start marked 'KE' 25m up Solo Gully, where the gully narrows, at the easy, wide chimney in a left-facing corner on the left (facing up the gully). Straight up the chimney.
Pete Taylor, George Owens 19-5-74
Just! 14 25m
Looks desperate. A tight, mossy, bulging chimney. Start opposite the toadstool in the cave. Kin 'Ell is directly opposite and 10m away on the other side of the gully. Struggle up and through bulge, chimney madly to cave, then up the steep crack above to the top.
Mike Law, Pete Taylor 26-10-74
Sunny Corner 22 80m
Highly technical climbing on an unusual line. Probably unrepeated. Start 200m right of Solo Gully below the big open book corner. Start on the right. 1. 20m Up slab and crack to base of corner then up to ledge. 2. 20m (22) Up corner (piton) and a few bulges. The left wall was climbed to avoid moves around the piton. Escape is possible here. 3. 40m Up walls then traverse right to shallow corner leading to roof. Into this and out onto right wall (bit thread) then layback the roof and ramp.
Mike Law, Glenn Tempest (alt) May 1977