Narrabeen Slabs

Crag faces south. Seeps badly after rain, but there are some steep routes that stay dry.


This is the obvious line of cliffs visible on the northern side of the Wakehurst Parkway, about 500m west of the Narrabeen Lakes Sport and Recreation Centre. The crag faces south and is quite shady until noon or so, so it's a really good spot in summer. Unfortunately the slabs also tend to seep quite badly (particularly during winter), so avoid them if there's been recent heavy rain. That being said, the rooves at the far end of the slabs are almost guaranteed to be dry, regardless of the weather. Many routes require natural gear for pro and / or belays. The descent for the main slab routes is at the left end, or rap off a suitable tree (ie. a tree bigger than your arm - don't do what some European visitors do and rap off dead shrubbery!).


It was originally used as an instructional area during the 1960s by John Davis and co.


To find the crag, it's easiest to start at the Sport and Recreation Centre on the Wakehurst Parkway. From here, drive about 500m west until a large gravel area is visible on your right. Continue on for about 200m and park on the left in the next small gravel area with a small cutting. Opposite this is a locked gate that marks the start of the walking track. Follow the track in for about 150m until you find a large open area with a green exhaust stack. Turn right here, cross the creek bed then follow a single walking track that winds up the hill for about 50m to the left hand end of the crag.

The climbs are described left to right, facing the cliff.

* Dunning Kruger Wall 20
Easy looking wall 10m L of where the track hits the cliff. Funky.
mikl 2018
A Spoonful of Sugar 16
Start up Dunning Kruger Wall and right to seam
Claire Fox 2018
* * Stiction 22
Cute boulder problem to start. Wall 4m R of where the track hits the cliff.
mikl 2018
* Lindsay's easy warmup 20
Easy looking line 6m R of where the track hits the cliff. 3 funky cruxes. Up and left.
Jeff Crass 2018

The following route was an old abandoned project, complete with a rusty chain lower off and a couple of pre-drilled bolt holes. There is also a suspect pocket in the lower half of the route which is not the work of the first ascentionist!

* Son of a Bad Man 24 12m
Start below obvious flake 2m left of H. Climb flake and wall via 4 RBs to double RB lower off.
Chris Yeomans 2005-06-17
* Hampsters 23 10m
At far left hand end of slabs. A great and varied slab. 4 Ubolts to lower off.
Mikl Law 1980s
* Some Girls Wander By Mistake 22 14m
Start as for K. After interesting start (crux), step left as for K then after the 2nd RB step left again. Straight up wall past 2 RBs via a large pocket on the left to double RB lower off (4 RBs in total to double RB lower off).
Chris Yeomans 2004-07-03
* Kiosks 22 10m
5m right of H. Up diagonal flake / ramp (RB) then step left into seam. Follow this (2 RBs to double RB lower off).
Mikl Law 1980s
* * Show Us Your Ticks 22 10m
A direct and more sustained variant to Kiosks. Follow the line of RBs to the lower-offs.
Craig Dungey 2001-12-09
* Elmo Needs Some Air 23 12m
2m right of K. Up and right to flake (small cams possible), hard past RB then easier past cam breaks to lower offs.
Dale Tweedie, Chris Yeomans 2004-12-19
* Iron Chef 23 13m
Follow F past BR and FH, then step left onto pedestal. Slopers and friction moves trend up and left initially, then up wall via pockets and small edges (3 RBs) to double RB lower off.
Chris Yeomans 2004-10-10
Frantic 21 15m
7m right of K. Athletic start. Head up past BR and 3 FHs, then step right and back to fourth FH. Over two bulges to double RB lower off.
Jeff Boyton, Gayle Matus 2002-01
* * Into the Void 19 15m
At highest part of wall, below big jug (3m right of F). Boulder to jug, balancy slab past 3 BRs.
Mikl Law 1980s
* S.I.A.N 17 27m
As this climb is a rising traverse crossing most of the routes on the main slab it is best attempted on quiet days! It is a pleasant and longish girdle traverse of the main slab Start at the foot of Into The Void. Climb Into The Void to bolt 2. Traverse right to the third fixed hanger on Manic, traverse right to Ag Science bolt 3. Cross The Appliance of Domestic Science at the chicken head, move down slightly and reach the third bolt on Technical Short Talk, traverse right again and clip bolt 3 on Kicks. Climb up to the top of Kicks and lower off the Kicks double ring bolts During the lower off unclip last quick draw on Kicks to make life much more pleasant for the second(!)
08.10.13 Michael Combley and Kate Baecher


Mum's the Word 16 10m
Second pitch of ITV. 3m right, onto clean wall and up.
Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton, Nicole Dombrain 1999-03-13
For the Good of the Claws 24 15m
4m right of ITV. Thin. Up to new BR, then trend left to finish up ItV.
Mikl Law 1980s
* * Manic 17 17m
3m left of AS. An excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right-arcing line. 4 FH to double RB lower off. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it's a bit easier than that.
Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh, Nicole Dombrain 2001-11
* Ag Science 16 13m
1m left of seam. Line of 4 BRs (bring bolt plates) up slab to finish as for M (DRB lower off).
Mikl Law 1980s
The Appliance of Domestic Science 17 12m
Climb directly up the thin natural seam 1 metre to the right of Ag Science using the bolts on Ag Science for protection Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam. Climb the seam using the Ag Science bolts for pro to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height. Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk
Michael Combley / James Carpenter, 2012
* * Mental as Anything 21 25m
Another traversing exercise for quiet days Start as for either Ag Science or Appliance of DS. Clip the first carrot of Ag Science. Move a meter left and clip the ring bolt. Try to traverse left to good holds, fall off and grab the good holds (someone really tall will probably clean this move on a day when the rubber grips) Traverse left across Into The Void heading to the finish of Frantic. Clip the last 3 rb’s of Frantic and lower off
Michael Combley, Kate Baecher, Andrew Rigden. October 2013
* * Technical Short Talk 18 12m
Marked. 2m right of seam. Up to BR, left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to double RB lower off.
Mikl Law 1980s
Kicks 18 12m
1m right of TST. Up the wall past the hole then a delicate finish past the final bolt. Recently rebolted as Taranesque (20 cm right!). Originally graded 20, but a few people have suggested that it's a bit easier than that with fixed gear.
Mikl Law 1980s
* Common Origin 16 12m
Marked. 1m right of T. Up slight ramp to hole (new BR). Wall (cams) then finish past BR. New double RB lower off.
Craig Martin, John Davis 1982-11-14

The next 2 routes are on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slab.

Wimples 24 10m
Steep second pitch to CO. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop. 3 manky BRs.
Mikl Law 1980s
* Dimples 21 15m
Start as for W. Clip the dodgy looking bolt(s) and keep heading right across the scoop. Finish up the right hand side of the arete (no gear - groundfall potential). Unseconded.
Steve Kelly 1998

Back to the slab.

Common Sense 17 12m
Marked HTS. 3m right of CO. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.
TPI 15 10m
2m up right of CS, just right of crack. Crack to break, then trend right past BR.
Question Marks 14 7m
4m right of TPI. Up crack, left past old BR.

The following 7 routes are on the block downhill from CO.

* A 18 10m
Start on the huge block in front of the cliff. Up pleasant, slightly overhanging wall past BR and 2 FHs. Double BB belay on top of block.
* Quick Fang Down the Parkway 18 10m
3m right of A. Up T (thread runner possible) to first bolt (now replaced). Up steep wall past break and mantle onto ledge. Final headwall brings jugs to finish. 4 RBs to tree belay, or belay as for A.
Chris Yeomans, Duane Maxwell 2003-07-19
* * Trickles 21 10m
Start as for QFDtP. Follow lip right past 3 RBs. Mantle then straight forward finish as for QFDtP (RB). Belay as for A or QFDtP.
Mikl Law 1980s
Mega Ryuushi Requiem Shoot 23 8m
In the cave to the right of Trickles. Punchy moves through the roof, then left along the lip to the fixed maillon. Back-jumping recommended. 4 RB's.
Sam Darley 2017
Roof Project (open) Project 10m
Powerful roof starting from the right corner of the cave. Engaging moves left along arete to top out at the end of Mega Ryuushi, then move right to lower-offs. 3RB's and 1 fixed maillon. Open project somewhere north of 28.
Open Project bolted 2017
Roof Project Direct (open) Project 8m
Direct, less aesthetic variant of similar difficulty. Starting at the right corner of the cave and up pockets and slopers. Open project.
Open Project bolted 2017
Communal Nose 9 12m
8m right of T. Pleasant right arete of the block (little pro).
Craig Martin, Russ Davis 1982-11-14

Back to the slabs.

* * Lunatic 18 19m
7m right of QM. Nice moves up black wall to third RB. Move right to fourth RB through broken blocks and straight up steep headwall, searching for good holds. 5 RB to double RB lower off. An excellent route by many accounts!
Rod Kotkis, Nicole Dombrain, Craig Dungey, Jeff Boyton 2001-12
* * * Fat, Sallow and Drunk 24 15m
3m right of L. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree, and up block above. 5 RBs to double U bolt lower off. The first RB is quite high so either stick clip it or take care.
Mikl Law 1980s
* * Muscoviet Mosquito 18 15m
3m right of L. Companion route to Lunatic. Follow the clean slab up to a small roof, over this, finishing up obvious flake / right edge of blunt arete (opposite arete of summit headwall to Lunatic). 5 RBs to double RB lower off.
Chris Yeomans, Nick Clow 2004-04-24
Colonial Mentality 8 10m
The corner crack at the far right hand end of the main slab, 8m right of FSAD.
FRA: Craig Martin (solo) 1984-07-02
* Born Under Lunges 18 12m
2m right of CM. Up overhanging nose then step right. 3 BRs.
Craig Martin, SID 1984-08-03

3 steep routes start in the cave beneath the hanging arete.

* B 21 18m
Marked 20. 5m R of BUL. Good sustained climbing. Up short wall past 1 BR and 2 FHs, then swing left past RB to RB on nose (lie down rest). Up the airy thin head wall past 2 FHs and chain lower off.
* * C 18 8m
Start as for B. A big, excellent and easy roof - one for the masses! Steeply past BR and 2 FHs to roof. Great positions out roof past FH to chain lower off in break.
Unfair Dismissal 21 15m
Start as for C. From the end of C, continue out then up the vertical face / arete to the top of the cliff. Anchors are set back 2m on a small wall. This climb is difficult to clean - it's probably easiest to backjump.
* Surfboard 24 15m
2m right of C. Boulder up the initial wall, then out the impressively steep territory above. Be wary of the big slung "surfboard" (it doesn't look particularly strong and the sling is starting to get a bit long in the tooth), and also when clipping the bolt just above it - if you blow the clip you could easily hit the deck. 2 RBs, sling on surfboard, FH to fixed biner lower off. There is also a chain lower off / rap anchor on a ledge above the climb (but below the top of the cliff).
Sweet Mercury 15 12m
The first crack 5m right of cave.
Craig Martin 1984-04-05
Shivering Jemmy 17 10m
Thin crack 10m right of SM. Boulder thin crack past cams and poor PR. Up to BR and thread runner. Straight up crack above, or belay and exit right along slippery ledge. Double ring bolt belay.
Craig Martin, SID 1984-04-03