Mystery Rocks
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3-4 mins
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Sandstone Bouldering
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Introduction
A good bouldering area off the end of Lawson Place in Cherrybrook. The crag has 4 distinct sections and offers numerous problems from V0- to V5.
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History
Probably first climbed on by Colin Larter and Niel Wallace in 1995/6. Written up as "Mystery Rocks" by Rod Wills and friends sometime later.
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Access
Easiest access is via Behan Place, park near end of street and walk down faint track to the walk marked on the map. Turn right and follow track, which heads straight for mystery. You can also walk in off Lawson Place. Walking time 3-4 minutes either way. There have been reports of frequent Red Belly Black Snake sightings in and around this crag. Although they're generally pretty docile, they are highly venemous so be extra careful when visiting this crag.
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SECTION 1
AREA A
Face up high on hill, with small cave on the left hand side.
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Oversight
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V5
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Through cool scoop finishing out left through a fun mantle.
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Tim O'Neill, Adam Griffiths Oct 2002
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AREA B
Dirty small face. No problems yet.
AREA C
Short face with small cave on left hand side, and another seperate small cave just above it.
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Moss Monster
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V0
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Sit start on left hand side of cave, up face to mossy slab.
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Rod Wills Nov 2002
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Discovery
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V1
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Sit start with feet in cave, big move to start to jugs.
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Rod Wills Nov 2002
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It's all Chips and Gravy
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V2
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Sit start with hard move to start, jugs to top, interesting mantle.
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Rod Wills Nov 2002
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SECTION 2
AREA D
High wall with good features and landings.
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Cool Mo D
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V2
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Straight up through obvious scoop.
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Colin Larter Late 2001?
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Sketch Artist
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V1
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Up sharp crimpers to a reachy finish and welcome juggy lip.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003
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Palm Flapper
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V1
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Up past some sharp crimpers to an interesting mantle.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003
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Tree Hugging Hippee
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V1
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Start hands matched on low jug and up arete.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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Sand Crimping Skippy
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V2
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Thin dynamic moves 2 metres right of arete.
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Josh Caple Oct 2005
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Down On Ya Knees
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V3
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Dynos up obvious features. Its pretty dodgy crawling off there until it cleans up a bit.
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Josh Caple Oct 2005
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*
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Gravy Train
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V3
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Three finger pocket to gaston then break, left then up.
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P.Reynolds Jan 2003
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Vine Wrangler
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V3
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Mono to gaston, move left and up.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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AREA E
Face with generally thin features.
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The Elipse
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V0
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1m rt of corner, eliptical feature then up tending right.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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Crap Off
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V0+
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Contrived fun sillyness.Layback the left side of the fallen block and then up the arete.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003
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Crap On
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V0
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Contrived fun sillyness. Layback the right side of the fallen block and then up the arete.
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Andrew Morrison Jan 2003
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Project 1
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Start just Lt of block, up crimpers, jugs at top, staying off block.
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AREA F
Large boulder away from main walls.
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Cranky Joe
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V1
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Standing start to two obvious big knobs then up.
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Colin Larter Early 2001?
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Project 2
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Obvious feature in centre of wall, with big move left to knobs.
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Slip, Grate and Bounce
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V2
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Straight up blank slab, just left of block.
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Stephen Hawkshaw jan 2003
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Project 3
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Start in right side of cave wedged between two boulders, up left to hard mantle.
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AREA G
Large high cave.
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Tell Him He's Dreaming
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V1
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Up the left side of the cave.
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Rod Wills Oct 2002
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One Week in a Bucket
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V2
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Up the left sided jugs in the middle of cave, to interesting mantle.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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Project 4
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Start as for OWIAB up for a couple of moves then breaks right on slopers to jugs and up as for the project to the right.
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Project 5
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Right hand line about 1 metre to the right.
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Turbulence
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V3
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2m left of edge of cave. Start on jugs and move powerfully up through roof.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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Turbidity
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V4
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Sits start on the arete and link it into the second hold on turbulence. Long sustained classic.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003
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Project 6
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Obvious high ball line right of cave.
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Heat Attack
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V1
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Up through hole to good top out.
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Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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AREA H
Boulder in front of cave.
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Cock Mobster
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V2
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Sit start, up to break, left to edge and up.
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Rod Wills Jan 2003
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Dont Get Cocky
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V3
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Start up Cock Mobster then traverse right to good RH jug then topout.
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Paul Cook Mar 2003
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Half Cocked
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V3
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Sit start to medium incut and straight up.
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Paul Cook Mar 2003
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Project 9
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Sit start to to small crimpers, then up.
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Bahumbug
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V1
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Sit start,incut holds to top and over.
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Andrew Secomb Dec 2002
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SECTION 3
AREA I
Face left of big cave.
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Fat Tongue
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V0
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Up Arete.
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Andrew Morrison Oct 2002
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Panic Man
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V1
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Obvious diagonal rail, then straight up.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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Lego Man
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V0
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Up to obvious V hold and over.
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Andrew Morrison Oct 2002
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Civil Twilight
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V1
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Climbs obvious feature on right side of wall.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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AREA J
Large boulder off main wall.
No problems yet.
AREA K
Large boulder off main wall.
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Project 10
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Sit start to pocket then up.
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Project 11
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Sit start with two finger pockets then up past cave.
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Skewered
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V0-
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1m Rt of cave. Mantle up Jugs.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 03
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The Conqueror
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V0-
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1m Rt of S. Up.
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P Reynolds Jan 03
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AREA L
Short wall.
No problems yet.
AREA M
Boulder off main wall.
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Never Trust a Junkie
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V2
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Sit start in cave, up and left out of cave around bulge and up over top.
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Rod Wills Nov 2002
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Bush Bash
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V1
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Sit start on obvious jug left side of cave, moving right through cave and underclings, face to top.
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Rod Wills Dec 2002
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The next problems are on the monolith below main boulder
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Cordon Beau
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V1
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Start at flakes on Rt side. Up and over.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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Le Menestrel
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V1
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Lt hand arete up channel bravely.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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Profiterole
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V2
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Stenuous start, up arete.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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Bleau
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V2
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Balance you way delicately left of centre.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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AREA N
Face with obvious arete in the middle.
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Water Hammer
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V0-
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Up arete and face right of cave.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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Access
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V0-
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Up face left of arete.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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*
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Cool Bananas
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V0
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Up knife blade arete.
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Andrew Morrison Oct 2002
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AREA O
Alleyway between two walls.
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The Brown Arete
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V1
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Up arete.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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Project 12
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Up face, slab to top.
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Day of the Triffid
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V0-
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Straight up faint seem below gum tree.
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Rod Wills Dec 2002
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The Scoop
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V0
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Start at large scoop, straight up.
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Rod Wills Dec 2002
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Fuck George Bush and his Ugly Wife
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V0
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Up left side of arete.
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Rod Wills Dec 2002
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Far out Brussel Sprout
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V0
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Up huge incut rail (pull and tread lightly) and continue to glory.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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Mosstang Sally
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V0
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Up and over.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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SECTION 4
Leave main track to follow ridge line with several solitary boulders and two large caves.
AREA P
Boulder with small cave on left side.
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Cheese Sandwich
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V1
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Straight out roof and up arete.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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Full Piss
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V0+
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Up rt hand side of cave, to obvious rail. Traverse left and up arete.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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Dont Piss In My Pocket
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V0
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Start as for Full Piss, straight up.
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Andrew Secomb Jan 2003
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Sketchpad
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V0+
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Up Arete.
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P Reynolds Jan 2003
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Off Cheese
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V0+
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Start as for Sketchpad, traverse left along face and finish on Cheese Sandwich.
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A Secomb Jan 2003
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The following problem is on a boulder right of P, 6 m's up the gully.
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Project 13
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Start on arĂȘte with R/hand crimp at waist level step up to L/hand knob then up.
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AREA Q
Boulder right of large cave.
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Featureless
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V2
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Slab up middle of boulder.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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Juxtapose
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V2
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Start left side of boulder following the right obvious seam to the top.
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Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002
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AREA R
Huge cave.
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Unnamed 1
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V7
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Start left side of cave folloing lip and over.
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Matt Tait 2002
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AREA S
Two scattered low lying boulders.
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Unnamed 2
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V0
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Start with feet in cave and head straight up.
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Kevin Van Tilburg Oct 2002
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Height is no Adversity
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V1
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Just left of the boulders nose, up to undercling in break, and up.
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Kevin Van Tilburg Oct 2002
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AREA T
Huge cave.
No problems yet.