Mt Kuringai
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5-25 mins
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Crags face west and north
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Quality climbing at a variety of crags up to 20m high, mostly sport
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Introduction
An extensive and recently developed series of crags located within the picturesque Berowra Valley Bushland Park. The majority of the routes are sport bolted with loweroffs, so it is a popular area. A wide range of grades means there is something for everyone. Beware the midges! Make sure you pack your insect repellent otherwise you might leave looking like you have chicken pox. The midge season is from November to April but you may find them outside these times.
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History
The area was rediscovered by Rod Wills in late 2003 although a couple of manky carrots were found at a couple of locations on Motocross wall. Rod and his cousin Vanessa started development at Fossil wall and moved north.
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Access
Drive to the very end of Beaumont Rd, Mt Kuringai and park in the turning circle at the end. The climbing is located on a number of distinct walls located along the cliff band to the west of the fire trail that leads north from the end of Beaumont Rd. The best climbing is at Lost & Found Walls and Faraway Walls, but they also have the longest walk-ins. The climbing at Fossil Wall and Motocross Wall is shorter and lesser quality, but popular due to ease of access. Go the quality and stretch those legs.
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Fossil Wall
Routes are described left to right (facing cliff).
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King Kyle
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23
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6m
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2.5m L of VTV. Up past 2 RB finishing at same anchors as VTV. One move wander.
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Tim Mayer 2010
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Vanstone the Vampire
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16
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7m
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Just right of descent gully. Up short wall.
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Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
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Children Overboard
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22
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7m
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Up thin face.
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Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
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Political Prisoner
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17
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7m
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Straight up passing 2 breaks and an orange grey streak. Shorties can add a grade.
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Rod Wills, Sep 2003
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Ruddock the Ring Wraith
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20
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12m
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Follow flake right over slab to top.
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Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
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* *
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The Mind has Mountains
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20
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10m
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Up pockets then trend right over bulge.
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Vanessa Wills, Aug 2003
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* *
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Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman
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18
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10m
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The first route at Mt Kuringai. Up pockets then diagonal break through bulge. Pumpy!
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Rod Wills, Sep 2003
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*
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Professor Poopy Pants
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20
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8m
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Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout.
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Rod Wills, Aug 2004
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Project 2
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10m
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The crack with 4 RBs.
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Open Project
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*
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On any Given Sunday
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17
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29m
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Improved version of "Working from home". Start 7m R of '10' 'Open Project', for a more interesting start, and finish on Political Prisioner. 3 bolts to start, and an extra bolt along the way mean that the sports bunnies can now be spared the need for trad gear.
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Tim Mayer, Aug 2013
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*
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Legoland
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16
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15m
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Up obvious line with ledges.
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Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003
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Working from Home
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16
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50m
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Start as for L.
Rising traverse following ledge / break / crack to finish on RtRW. Broken into 2 pitches with belay on Captain Underpants.
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Andrew Ingles, Colin Larter 2005
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*
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Elbow Abrasions
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16
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15m
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Escapes the crux of UM. Up UM to 3rd bolt then step left and finish up L.
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Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003
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* *
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Unguarded Moment
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21
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15m
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At right hand end of wall. Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, step R to crux over bulge. Possibly harder if you're short.
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Chris Yoemans, April 2004
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Middle Wall
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*
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Best Of The Shaved
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19
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9m
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Start as for CFZ. Step L at 2nd bolt then up.
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David Filan, 30-12-2007
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*
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Care Factor Zero
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18
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8m
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Left side of slab.
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Rod Wills, 6-5-2007
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*
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Ecstatic Addict
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18
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10m
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3m R of CFZ. Up centre of wall, left side of obvious feature.
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Kevin Van Tinburg, 6-5-2007
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*
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Midge Madness
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21
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10m
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2m R of EA. Up centre of wall on R side of obvious feature.
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Vanessa Wills, Dec 2004
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Project 3
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6m
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10m R of MM. Right side of cave, tending straight up out of cave.
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Project 4
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6m
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Possibly another project with the same start.
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Well It Ain't Everest
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17
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7m
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8m R of Project. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared lower-offs or walk off.
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Rod Wills, 2007
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Well it Ain't K2
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17
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7m
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2m R of WIAE. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared loweroffs or walk off.
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Rod Wills, 2007
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Motocross Wall
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The Grudge
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18
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12m
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Staight up face on wall directly after access gully. Top out, belay off trees at the top.
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Rod Wills, Oct 2004
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Extinction Never Felt So Good
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17
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12m
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15m R of TG on next prominent wall. Up over two ledges to face and crux.
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Rod Wills, Oct 2004
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*
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Dinosaurs Must Die
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19
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12m
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2m R of ENFSG. Up L side of cave onto tricky face.
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Rod Wills, Oct 2003
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*
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Life On Hold
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20
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12m
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Hard start, possibly harder since a hold broke. Up R side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab.
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Vanessa Wills, Oct 2003
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Petrified Wood
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20
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10m
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Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? Shared lower offs.
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Vanessa Wills, Dec 2003
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A Dream, Nothing More
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15
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10m
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Corner R of PW. Up corner crack (RB) then up easy corner (gear).
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Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003
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Fossilized Thought
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18
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10m
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Start as for ADNM. Boulder up face left of corner crack, step across right to face. Then easily up slab to hard finish. Bridging in the corner up high only gets you 15.
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Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003
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Project 5
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8m
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Around corner on next wall. Over rooflet onto face. Go for it!
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Open Project
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* *
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Ragged Claw
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23
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15m
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Start in middle of next face around arete. Over bulge, onto slab then thin face.
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Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004
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* *
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Rains of Destiny
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25
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15m
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Start 3m R of RC on the obvious crack. Up to Ledge, and then hit the wall and enjoy some big moves on some nice small crimps, finishing on DRB’s on headwall.
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Tim Mayer 4th Mar 2014
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Two Short Scrambles and a Long Walk
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18
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20m
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Start just left of SoP.
1. 18. Up to ledge. Walk left along ledge to corner.
2. 12. Up corner
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Christian Diemont & Colin Larter, 2012
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* *
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Screams of Passion
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25
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18m
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Starts on bulging ramp about 1.5m L of PS. Easily up ramp to rest hold up left, then explode on to bad holds and even worse footers to the top, with a dyno on the way. You'll be screaming to stay on the wall too.
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Tim Mayer 25th Aug 2013
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Pinkie Shredder
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18
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15m
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On the next wall is a large obvious splitter crack.
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Duane White, Dec 2004
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* * *
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The Devil Inside
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23
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15m
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1m R of PS. Bouldery start up prow then onto thin technical face.
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Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004
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* * *
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Heresy
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22
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15m
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2m R of TDI. A crimpy classic by all accounts! Bouldery start over bulge onto face.
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Rod Wills, Sep 2004
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Project 9
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15m
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2m R of H. Up wall and arete.
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Goblin Grotto
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15M2
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15m
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L of FG in grotto. Up crack, aid through roof and up small gully tending left over boulders to top.
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Colin Larter, June 2004
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*
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Goofy Foot
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19
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10m
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Up right side of cave via jug to top.
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Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
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Babsgotabz
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24
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15m
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4m R of GF. Over ledge through middle of "wave" shaped wall. One move wander.
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Nathan Millard 2013
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Malibu Rider
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13
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10m
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Start as for open project (cam in break), then traverse R across slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs.
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Vanessa Wills (solo), Mar 2004
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Grommet
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17
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10m
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A direct start to MR, straight up crack.
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Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
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Skank
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21
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10m
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1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.
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Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007
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Project 11
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10m
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Up through some very hard territory in the middle of the cave. Still needs another bolt.
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Guns, Germs and Steel
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18
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10m
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5m past cave. The slab to small bulging crack line.
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Luke Atkinson, 2004
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Ball Buster
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23
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12m
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Up face and left side of weakness.
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Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007
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* *
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Somewhere Down The Barrel
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21
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12m
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5m R of GGAS. Up orange face and weakness.
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Elliot Braham, Apr 2004
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Lost & Found Wall
The Furnace
The first few climbs are 300m left of the access gully (facing in). Scramble uphill onto ledge. Routes described left to right.
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Shoe Lizard
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17
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12m
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Start at far left end of wall in little cave under block. Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.
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Colin Larter 2008
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Great Balls of Fire
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22
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15m
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Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, then up through orange top section.
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Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007
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*
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Solar Flare
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22
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15m
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Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.
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Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007
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The Welsh Route
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10
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8m
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Starts at R end of wall. Up cracks on left side of gully.
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Bryony Ruscoe 2007
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Ding Bat Wall
The following routes are 50m left of the access gully (facing in).
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Bumphlegm
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15
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10m
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Start at base of big block 3m L of GH. Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.
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Colin Larter 2007
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Goblin Horde
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8
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10m
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Chimney 1m L of LF.
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Colin Larter 2007
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The following two climbs are very clean and obviously getting a lot of attention.
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*
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Lactose Free
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16
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13m
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Straight up featured face.
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Rod Wills, Nov 2007
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*
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Ding Bat
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14
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11m
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2m R of LF. Up juggy wall.
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Kevin Van Tilburg 2006
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Left of Access Creek
The following four climbs are immediately left of the access gully (facing in).
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*
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Pig Shootin
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13
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15m
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Start 15m R of project past cave around corner. Up nice looking crack with bomber pro.
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Dale Tweedie, Feb 2004
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* *
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Bummagedon
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20
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15m
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Start 3m R of PS. Up steep scoops over bulge.
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Rod Wills 2005
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*
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Tingles
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21
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16m
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Start just R of B and L of the crack. Directly up the wall.
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Jason Lammers 10-5-2008
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Kodak Moment
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15
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15m
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The nice looking crack.
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Elliot Braham, Feb 2004
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Right of Access Creek
Now for the routes to the right of the access gully (facing in).
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Project 12
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2m R of gully. Straight up face through ledge/cave to top.
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Project Vanessa
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*
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Dog Beta
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22
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15m
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From right side of cave step left at 2nd bolt then up to ledge, then step right to shared anchors.
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Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
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* *
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Dead Letter Office
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23
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15m
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Start as for DB, then straight up past left of smaller higher cave to lower offs. Popular.
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Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
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*
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Lichen a Virgin Dog
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18
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15m
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Start: as for IADL, then left at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.
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Tony Tang 2006
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*
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It's A Dog's Life
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19
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15m
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Up middle of face just right of small cave, over ledge to slab.
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Rod Wills, Feb 2006
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* *
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Foundling
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17
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15m
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2m right of IADL, up past thin flake to arête. Very popular.
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Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
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*
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Lost Property
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17
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15m
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2m right of F. Up obvious crack tending left to finish up arête of F.
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Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
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Big Cave
Scramble up to the tier above from the right.
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* *
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Woken Furies
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19
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10m
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Start up hill in big cave. Up steep wall on left hand side.
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Rod Wills, Feb 2006
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STW
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18
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6m
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3m R of WF. Up steep terrain over small roof to lower offs.
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Andrew Fell, Jul 2007
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Roxie and Matey Go Quantity Surveying
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20
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12m
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Start on slab R of big cave, 2m L of S. Up slab to short steep headwall.
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Vanessa Wills, Jun 2006
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Scorpion Slab
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Scorpion
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18
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13m
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Start on slab wall R of big cave. Slab to short steep headwall.
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Rod Wills, Mar 2006
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Broke Rib Mountain
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14
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12m
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2m R of S. Slab to short steep headwall.
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Rod Wills, Nov 2006
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Bill and Ben Area
The next climbs are around the corner and up the hill.
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Worth The Walk?
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15
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6m
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20m L of B. Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.
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Greg Hislop 9-8-2008
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Bill
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14
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10m
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Wide flared crack. Mmmmm, sounds great!
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Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
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Ben
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17
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10m
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2m R of B. Up crack with a steepish start.
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Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
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Science vs Religion Slabs
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Intelligent Design
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16
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9m
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Mantle start, then straight up blunt arete.
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Rod Wills, Dec 2006
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*
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Evolution
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17
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9m
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2m R of arete. Up tending L to shared anchors. Stay off arete until 3rd bolt.
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Rod Wills, Dec 2006
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*
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The Meaning of Life
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15
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11m
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Straight up middle of slab.
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Rod Wills, Dec 2006
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Carbon Credit Ampitheatre
Scramble further on up to beneath the big impressive wall. The first few routes are accessed by scrambling up to a precarious ledge.
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*
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Farewell to Fear
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19
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13m
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Start up on ledge R of big cave. Step left at 2nd bolt traversing L then up arete.
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Vanessa Wills, June 2006
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Fearless
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24
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12m
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Start off the block as for D. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break. Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF.
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Vanessa Wills 2009
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*
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Dendrobium
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18
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12m
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Start for as FTF. Bridge up orange face to airy headwall. Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.
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Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006
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Ficus
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9
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12m
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Up easy corner R of D. Sounds like another classic!
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Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006
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* *
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Siliconciousness
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22
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14m
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Start R of F on main face. Up past balancy flake following orange streak.
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Vanessa Wills 1-7-2006
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* * *
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Carbon Credits
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24
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18m
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5m R of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.
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Vanessa Wills 2007
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* * *
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She Who Must Be Obeyed
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20
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20m
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5m R of CC. Up middle of wall following obvious ramp.
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Rod Wills, July 2006
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*
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Tickfest
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22
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20m
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5m R of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.
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Vanessa Wills, June 2006
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* *
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Aerospace
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18
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16m
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2m R of T. Straight up faint arête tending left at the top. Unfortunately the last bolt is positioned such that stuffing up the crux might land your ankles on the ledge. Take care.
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Vanessa Wills, June 2006
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Black Box
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21
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14m
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2m R of A, straight up the face.
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Vanessa Wills 2007
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Wing Commander
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17
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12m
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2m R of BB. Straight up the face on big holds. Shared loweroffs.
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Vanessa Wills 2007
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ZoZo Cave
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* *
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ZoZo The Mandarin Fiend
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18
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15m
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100m R of WC, past big cave. A steep and impressive natural line up the left side of a cave. To descend, rap off a suitable tree.
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Vanessa Wills, Anthony Geogheghan, 2007
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Faraway Wall
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*
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Sapphire Bullets Of Pure Love
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12
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8m
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Access is gained by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds.
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Jason Lammers 2007
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Birdhouse In Your Soul
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21
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10m
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2m R of SBOPL. Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as this could result in a grounder.
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Jason Lammers 2005
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Low Voltage
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18
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9m
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On the next face. Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway.
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Rod Wills 1-11-2004
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*
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High Voltage
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24
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18m
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An extension to LV, continuing straight up the face.
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Daniel Webster 21-4-2007
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*
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Death Adder
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19
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15m
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3m R of LV under roof. Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors.
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Vanessa Wills 1-12-2004
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* *
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A New Way of Living
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20
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13m
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5m R of DA. Up to R face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors.
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Chris Yeomans 1-9-2005
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The Angry Goblin
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18
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15m
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Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.
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Colin Larter 1-12-2005
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*
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The Dark Con of Man
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22
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15m
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3m R of TAG. Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa!
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Vanessa Wills 1-4-2007
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* * *
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Vitruvian Man
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23
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20m
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6m R of TDCOM. Up stepped arete to sit-down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face.
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Stephen Hawkshaw 1-11-2004
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* * *
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The Memory Cathedral
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22
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20m
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3m R of VM. Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM.
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Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004
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The Happy Goblin
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15
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10m
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1m R of MC. Up corner/crack.
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Colin Larter 1-2-2006
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Kiss and Make Up
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22
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12m
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1m R of THG. Straight up face between corner and cave.
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Greg Hislop 2007
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The Mischievous Leprechaun
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16
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10m
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2m L of PLC. Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.
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Colin Larter, August 2009
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*
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Peruvian Love Child
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14
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10m
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4m R of KAMU. Up left side of shorter wall, 2m R of cave. Star only if clean.
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Rod Wills 1-11-2004
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Phyto-Bezoar
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9
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10m
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4m R of PLC. Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.
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Vanessa Wills (solo) 1-10-2004
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*
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Chilli in Chile
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20
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8m
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3m R of PB. Up thin face past pockets.
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Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004
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Istanbul (not Constantinople)
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16
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8m
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3m R of CIC. Pocket to edge then up jugs. Nice moves. Add a grade if you're short.
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Jason Lammers 1-11-2004
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The Underworld
At Faraway Wall as soon as you scamble down access cliff to base, head left along base of cliff for 50-100m then head straight down the hill. Alternatively if at Lost and Found just keep heading along cliff line for about 300m after Zozo. Either way its a bit of a bush bash.
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*
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Summer Roll For Your Soul
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17
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8m
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Up left side of weakness. Fun jug hauling and mantling.
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Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008
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*
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Hard Candy
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18
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8m
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2m R of SRFYS. Up right crack, onto face at first bolt and straight up face.
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Rod Wills 6-7-2008
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Project 13
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7m
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4m R of HC
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Project Dave
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Shrinky Dink
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14
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7m
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|
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1m R of crack up arete. Up crack stepping R onto face at 3rd bolt and up.
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Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008
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*
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Final Atonement
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18
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7m
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2m R of SD, up blank face. Fingery start and top bouldery finish.
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Project 14
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7m
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5m R of FA, L side of shallow cave in middle of wall.
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Project Kev
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Crapola
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16
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7m
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10m R of Kev's project. L side of cave onto blank slab.
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Rod Wills 24-8-2008
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The Very Far, Far Away Crag
Continue following the broken cliffline north-east from The Furnace, until it forms a substantial set of walls again. Walking time 15 minutes. It is also possible to approach from the ridge line above following cairns, but you'll need a GPS or phone map.
Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff.
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The Three Hundred Thousand Dollar Man
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16
|
18m
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Start at the right hand end of the main wall. Up crack to ledge and tree then continue up chimney.
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Colin Larter, 2015
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*
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WOMBAT
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20
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20m
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The thin seam with 4 FHs to a large ledge, then past another FH to top. Rap rings over top. Technical and fun.
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Stu Dobbie, May 2014
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*
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Snakes and Ladders
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17
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20m
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The central line of the wall, to the half way ledge, then up past horizontal breaks to top and rap rings. Get some good gear in before going for the half way ledge. There are 2 RB on the ledge for an intermediate belay.
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Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin (alt. leads), Danny Kumar, Winter 2012
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Hey Man Nice Shot
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17
|
20m
|
|
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The left-leaning hand crack left of SAL. The line continues all the way to the top.
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Rod Smith, Enmoore Lin, Winter 2012
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* *
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Third Time Lucky
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18
|
18m
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Left facing striped corner capped by a massive roof.
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Colin Larter, 2015
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Bandicute
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18
|
20m
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The flared fingers and hand crack at the far left end of the big black slabby wall, just right of a short chimney. When the crack ends, continue carefully up to top-out at massive gum tree. Rap possible here or walk back to the Snakes and Ladders rap.
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Enmoore Lin, Stu Dobbie and Danny Kumar, Winter 2012
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