Mt Gibraltar
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5 mins
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Trachyte
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Access
To get there follow the signs in Mittagong up to the top and park at Mt Jellore lookout. Walk 50m to the lookout and the corner of Slow Twitch is straight below the little stone shelter. Best to rap down by fixing a 50m rope off 2 Ubolts in the trench by the little tree. To walk down the Northern Descent, go north along the rim track for about 80m to the end of the rock shelf, then head down and left, there is a big boulder above "Punks on the Gib", the gully is just to the left of it. The gully between this buttress and the slabs is too scary to descend (and a bit grim to climb up) To get out, walk up the Northern Descent.
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Bat Cave
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Punks on the Gib
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22
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15m
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The only route in the Bat Cave.
Up to BR then to jug, move right then up past 2 BRs. DBB.
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G. Miller
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14 Wall
10m right of Bat Cave is a slabby wall with many jugs - this is the 14 Wall. Scrubbed up a bit by a UNSWOC trip in 2014. A great top-roping spot for gym-trained beginners as an alternative to Mt Alex. Although the starts are hard, the slab climbing up the top is fun.
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Skier's Crack
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14
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8m
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A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay.
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Previously soloed by several people
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One
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14
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10m
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Start at tree on far left of wall.
Up past BR.
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T. Cartwright
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Two
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13
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10m
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Original description started at tree and traversed right, but it's better to start on the ground and mantel onto the rail. Up past BR, then juggy wall.
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T.Cartwright
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*
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Three
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16
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10m
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Start just right of Two. Up past 3 FHs to chain. Rebolted 2014.
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T.Cartwright
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Four
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15
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10m
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Right again. Up past 2 BRs to chain.
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T.Cartwright
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Flake Wall
The Flake Wall is immediately (1m) right of 14 Wall and is easily identified by the flake which forms a mini-roof over all others.
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Five
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17
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10m
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About 2m right of the double cracks. Up wall past 2 BRs to small overlap, past BR and small tree. DBB.
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T.Cartwright
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The Great Prawn Hunt
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17
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15m
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Up as for Four to overlap, traverse right along flake to join Six. 3BRs.
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F.Duxfield, G.Williamson 1996
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Six
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15
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10m
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Start as for Four. Traverse right along low flake to BR, then up and past another BR to tree.
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T.Cartwright
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Continue right about 100m to where a small boulder caps a low cliffline. The route on the left is Chadwick's DS.
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Seven
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22
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10m
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Line of bolts left of Chadwick's D.S.
Bouldery start to minor lip then up, 4 BRs. DBB.
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T.Cartwright
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Chadwick's Dynamic Society
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22
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7m
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Where large boulder caps the cliffline. Up closed corner, through roof, up slab. 3BRs.
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G.Miller Jun 1991
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Chadwick's Revenge
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17
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10m
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Start 2m right of Chadwick's DS. Up layback, over roof, up slab. 3BRs.
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G.Miller
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Main Wall
Easiest to rap in 2 rings 6m below and right of the lookout, leave a 50m rope and haul up your packs when you scramble or climb out.
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* *
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Trubl
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26
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50m
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Thin crack on left wall of main corner. Desperate and I once cut a rope working it.
1. 20m. (crux) To small tree then right to BR (hard clip) to crack and up past 2BRs (probably dodgy with Aluminium hangers, please retrobolt)
3. 22m. Easily up small corner left or traverse further to tree belay.
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M.Law, S.Butler 1987
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Crackenback
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17
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10m
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Start on sloping halfway ledge up and left of Trubl at small bush.
Layback and bridge up twin cracks.
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F.Duxfield, G.Murray, G.Williamson May 97
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*
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the Italian Route
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20
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20m
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Nice slab, start 10m left of the massive corner (Slow Twitch). Up past 4 Brs to lower-off.
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Patric Burr 2012
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* *
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The Anty Climb
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22
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20m
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Cool slab, start about 6m left of massive corner. Don't go up obvious easy corner (full of ants!) but up thin wall past bolt on left. Up past 6 BRs to lower-off.
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Vanessa Peterson 2012
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* * *
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Slow Twitch
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20
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30m
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Start beneath massive yellow corner, about 50m right of Trubl. Up slab below corner, continue up corner to hardish finish, Ubolt loweroff / anchor. 7 BRs.
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M.Law 1988
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* * *
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Slow Twitch Extension
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25
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40m
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As for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top, belay possible at 3BB at 30m
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M Law 1988
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Slow Twitch Variant
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10
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At second pitch belay move left along obvious traverse to easy corner.
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* * *
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Slow Gulpa
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24
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38m
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Links Slow Twitch into the top pitch of Sluj Gulpa past 1 additional bolt and a techy boulder-problem to create a 38m mega pitch from the ground. The best pitch at Mount Gibraltar?
Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top.
A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope.
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Paul Thomson, 26th May 2015
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two fairly amusing mikl projects here, might be done by Xmas....
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* * *
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Sluj Gulpa
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23
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60m
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Mega Classic, should be obligatory for any trip down the Hume Highway. 6m down and right of Slow Twitch. varied climbing on good rock
1. 20m. (22) Up face and corner to diagonal crack, right along this end of halfway ledge. 4 bolts.
2. 15m. (22) Right to first BR, up to second. Left and up, 5 bolts.
3. 23m. (23) Follow BRs, past traverse moves, into flake, up to top. 6 bolts.
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Mike Law, Geg Child, Greg Moore, Giles Bradbury 1988-04-01
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The Access Climb
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16
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25m
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Start about 12m downhill from the massive corner (Slow Twitch) in a chimney/crack system.
Up system till you can step left. Continue out sickle shaped crack to ledge and tree belay. Abseil off (dodgy tree) or continue to top via one of the many other routes.
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?
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All Racked Up And Nowhere To Go
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23
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45m
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Very runout!
1. 25m Up Access Route.
2. 20m Up obvious fading crack to small cam below flake, onto ledge. Good tree belay a further 5m higher.
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J.Bell, G.Williamson 1996
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Route Fourteen
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16
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45m
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Up Access Route to big ledge, right to corner/crack, up with poor protection.
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Unknown
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Iron Man
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10M1
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45m
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Start as for Access Route.
1. Up to halfway ledge, right to belay beneath small roof.
2. Up and around lip to easy moves above to tree belay.
3. Either up dirty corner or climb tree to slab.
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G.Williamson, F.Duxfield Jun 96
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Modern Masculinity
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20
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75 m
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(Please remove red tag if you climb this, route has been sent.)
Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.
Pitch 1 (17): Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.
Pitch 2 (20): Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.
Pitch 3 (18): Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.
Pitch 4 (19): Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and the up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for big bird.
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James Bultitude, Rene Provis, Samuel May 8/02/15
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This shot shows the 'money' pitches on 'All Racked up' (23), 'Route Fourteen' (16) and Iron man' (10 M1)
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Offal Dredger
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22
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12m
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Short curving corner about 30m downhill from Slow Twitch.
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A.Prehn 1979
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* * *
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Big Bird
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20
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75m
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Varied sport route, rap down the corner and walk 60m to start up shallow groove.
1 (15m 17) Up onto ledge then up groove and R arete to 2 U belay.
2 (35m 20) Steep layback corner soon eases to top of block, then right past 2 bolts to a hard step up and right, up to a 2U belay on slab.
3 (25m 18) Right to weird moves u[p left wall of gully and onto 'The Beak', very airy. Up easily to Ubolt.
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Gareth Downey, Mikl Law, 28-10-2012
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Patrick Burr leading P1 of Big Bird
Patrick wrestling with the big beak on P3 of Big Bird.
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Comyns
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20
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50m
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Starts about 15m right of Offal Dredger. Climbs rib right of obvious corner.
1 (20m, 17) Up to corner and ledge, belay at bolt and natural gear, nice pitch.
2 (45m, 20, 5 bolts) Step right and around arete (airy!) and up slab. After 4th bolt head up R onto ridge, then easily back L to tree
3 (20m, 10) Up V cracks behind to easy ground
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Mike Law, G.Eggins 1986
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Slab Wall
Sizable expanse of rock separated from Main Wall by large vegetated gully. Best to fix a rope and rap in down the main corner below the lookout.Walk right (south) about 80m to a gully with the steeper main wall on the left and the slabs on the right. About 20m right of the gully is an obvious wide corner crack which is quite vegetated - this is Suicidal Dreams.
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Suicidal Dreams
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18
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55m
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Offwidth corner crack about 50m right of Access Route.
1. 20m. Up crack past bush to poor belay.
2. 30m. Up slaby seam with poor protection to poor belay under boulder.
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F.Duxfield, G.Williamson 1996
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R.R.P.?
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16
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55m
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About 10m right of Suicidal Dreams. Marked.
1. 55m. Up past bush to poor belay to join Suicidal Dreams second pitch.
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Uknown
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RRP Variant
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To belay then traverse right to BR, then up wall.
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Unknown
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* * *
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Gripping Yarn
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16
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95m
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Nice slabbing with a few easy runouts. Easiest to fix a rope and rap down the main corner. Walk down and right 50m to Big Bird, then go another 20m R to pass a gully. 30m R of this is a fine thin crack up the face of short flake.
P1 15m Up past 3 bolts then on to DBB
P2 50m Straight up past 8 bolts and then traverse left to DBB
P3 30m Head left up easy slab (BR) and mantel (BR) past cracks and up over 2 bulges, walk back to tree.
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Jeff Crass, mikl
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The Very Easy Route
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12
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50m
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Up on ledge about 30m right of RRP - take care.
Traverse out left along ramp for about 30m, up small seam - poor protection.
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Unknown
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The slightly harder route
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From the Maur i Rompa belay bolt at the left end of the ledge, follow the seam leftwards, 2m past Gripping Yarn and up past a carrot. Then diag L to jug and around arete to good crack. Follow this to horBreak then follow easy seam with no gear for 10m and leftwards to GY Belay#2
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mikl 1988 solo then bolted
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* *
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Maur i Rompa
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Walk around for 50 m from the start of big bird till you come to an easy crack/ramp which runs diagonally up from left to right (this is also the very easy Route). Follow this to the first bolt then up past another bolt to an easy bridging corner.
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James Bultitude 2014
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Unknown Wall
The following route descriptions could not be located. If you can figure it out, let us know!
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Afterthought
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9
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23m
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Halfway down descent gully on right behind wattle trees.
Up slab to groove/crack, up this and wall to right, to ledge. Up between cracks.
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N.Wilson, N.Jacobs Dec 77
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Three D
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15
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29m
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At crack about 5m right of descent gully.
Up crack to block, up right of block. Righwards onto wall and up slabs to chimney.
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W.Newton, N.Wilson, Dec 77
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Cricket Hat
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12
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50m
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At block leaning against cliff about 15m right of Three D.
Up to tree right of blade to corner, up onto ramp to right. Up crack and wall to trees. Right onto wall and up slabs to chimney.
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N.Wilson, W.Newton, J.Warren Nov 77
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Jwan
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9
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58m
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At corner 5m right of Cricket Hat.
Up corner and loose rock to another corner, to bushy ledge. Up slab towards crack, just below bush move right onto wall and up.
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N.Wilson et al Nov 77
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Second Thoughts
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14
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26m
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Behind wattle tree about 20m right of 'F'.
Up wall to slab, then to trees. Up wall and slab to crack in block, left to crack, up block to top.
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N.Wilson Jan 78
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Goat Track
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15
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45m
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At overhanging corner and wall about 4m right of Second T.
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N.Wilson, W.Newton Dec 77
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