Mt Alexandra
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10 minutes
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Crag faces north
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Sandstone
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Introduction
A large and popular crag located in the outskirts of Mittagong in the Southern Highlands. The crag faces north and can get hot in summer despite the higher altitude. The routes in the main cave probably stay dry in light rain.
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Access
Direct yourself to Mittagong using a car navigator or old fashioned street directory. (Hint: Take the Hume Freeway south from Sydney) When entering the town from the Sydney side, head down the main street until Victoria St appears on your right. Take the next right after Victoria St, then circle back to meet it (there's a concrete divider that prevents cars from turning right directly onto Victoria St). Follow Victoria St up a short, steep hill and park in the carpark at the end. Walk through a small cutting to the left and wander on down the hill to the start of the crag. There is some OK bouldering on the smaller walls to your right as you walk in ("Sicko Wall" and "Garth's Gallery"), as well as some good bouldering at the "Mega Choss" bouldering area further down the hill (continue straight down instead of tracking right under the cliff). Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.
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First Cave
A good looking cave with nice orange rock. There is also some good bouldering along the base. The first two routes are just to the right of the cave.
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*
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Snuffs Enuff
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20
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12m
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The first route you come to. Balancy start (without using the side of the cave) leads to delicate moves over the slight bulge to an easy headwall. 5 RBs to double RB lower off.
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Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson 2001-06-03
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Dancing with Deborah
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23
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12m
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2m left of SE. Route with FHs. Unpopular.
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Death of a New Car Salesman
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20
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10m
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At very right hand end of cave, behind tree. Up (5 RBs, 2nd is hard to clip) to U anchor lower off. Try not to damage the tree when lowering off.
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Mark Woodard 1997-05
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*
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Progress Comes to Shitsville
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22
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10m
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Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs (2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS. Sustained.
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Mark Woodard 1998-04-25
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Electric Gut Stick Gobblers
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24
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10m
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Left of PCtS, below round feature. Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD. Finish as for LHdlDDF. 6 RBs in total (including the anchor on LHdlD).
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Graeme Hill 1998-04-25
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Party Hat
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24
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15m
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Up EGSG for 3 bolts then up and slightly right through roof. Take of the tree near the top.
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Andy Addison 2006
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* * *
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Los Hermanos de la Denitente
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23
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10m
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Crag Classic !! Hard start (or stand on stump). Up wall (crux) to roof. Pull through roof to small cave (double RB lower off). 4 FHs in all.
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Garth Miller 1992-08-15
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* *
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Los Hermanos de la Denitente Direct Finish
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24
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15m
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From lower off, continue up to crimp then move right (RB) to flake. Easy to double RB lower off.
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Graeme Hill 1998-04-25
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* * *
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Biafra
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26
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12m
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Next to trees near left edge of cave. Another Classic!. Stick clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest. Sustained moves up wall then out steep territory above to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total. Easy for the grade.
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Cameron Breeze 1999-06-07
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*
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Top Hat
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26
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16m
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Up B then continue past one more RB through roof to lower offs.
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Andy Addison 2006
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*
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Galvanise
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20
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12m
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Just left of B. Up nice orange face past break to letterbox jug. Over bulge and up steep jugs to anchor. Would get 2 stars without the ledges.
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Jason Lammers, Stephen Hawkshaw 2006-12-09
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*
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Jello
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21
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16m
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Up G for 4 bolts, then traverse right (RB) to join B above the crux. Lower off as for B, keeping in mind that the gear can't be cleaned while lowering off.
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Jason Lammers, Stephen Hawkshaw 2006-12-09
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* *
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The Nose in 4 Minutes
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22
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9m
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Below nose at left hand side of first cave. Racey start to balancy headwall. 3 RB's to DRB lower off. Begging for an extension through the roof.
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Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray 2004-02-14
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The Nose in 4 Minutes - Extension
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24
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15m
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From the anchors on tNi4m, keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.
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Jason Lammers
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* *
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Chook
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20
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12m
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5m left of TNi4M. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.
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Unknown 2000
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*
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Chicken
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20
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15m
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2m left of C. Up face left of C passing 5 RBs to join C for the final headwall.
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Simon Vaughan 2006-12-16
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*
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Corner From Hell
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16
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15m
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15m left of C. Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay.
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David Duke (solo)
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* *
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Corner From Heaven
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18
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20
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Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook
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Simon Vaughan 2010-08-21
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The following six climbs are scattered between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall.
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Bundy's Bulge - Project !
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??
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12m
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2m left of tCfH. Up thin face and through bulge. Note: this is NOT an open project. Please stay off unless invited to try it by Jason.
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Jason Lammers
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* *
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Surprise
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20
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15m
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10m left of CFH, near tree. Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.
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Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan 2002-04-21
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* *
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Mousetrap
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19
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10m
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2m left of S. Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.
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Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin 2001-08-19
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Trollberg
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19/22
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16m
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2m left of M, below bulgy wall. Up wall (5 RBs) to double RB lower off. Weird crux can be avoided by moving left to crack at 3rd RB (grade 19 variant - "Trollberg McDougall").
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Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 1997-12
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*
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Pinocchio's Nose
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18
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18m
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2m left of T, below corner crack. Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay. A little run out at the top.
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Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 1997-11
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*
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The Red Room
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18
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16m
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2m left of PN. Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.
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Mick Wever, Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray 2001-12-17
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*
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Hugh Town
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19
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15m
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Up RR for 2 RBs then step left and continue up face and overlap to anchor.
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Simon Vaughan 2006-10-08
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Vox Populi Wall
The prominent blank looking black wall with a small overlap near the top, just left of PN.
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*
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Dorothy the Dinosaur
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17
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16m
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4m left of PN. Up past 5 RBs and through overlap to double RB lower off. Was a rather technical 18 until I ripped a big bit of rock off the crux on the 3rd ascent, leaving a jug!
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Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 1997-11
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* *
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Three and a Half Thousand
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20
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16m
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1m left of DtD. Lovely slopey slab climbing, and just a tad runout to keep you on your toes. Up with increasing difficulty past 3 RBs to double RB lower off.
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Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 1997-11
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* *
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Vox Populi
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18
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15m
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5m left of TaaHT. An excellent and engaging climb up the groove and through the small roof. Take wires and cams for the wall, then up past 4 bolts (mix of FHs, RBs and a U anchor) to a double RB lower off. Take care pulling through the roof - a lot of people seem to pull bits of rock off there.
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Garth Miller, David Duke 1992-07-12
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Vox Populi Lite
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22
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15m
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Up Vox Populi to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on Vox Populi finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for Vox Populi up to and including the crack.
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Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan 2002-01-08
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Silver Fox
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20
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16m
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4m left of VP. Up balancy slab to overlap, then move right to crack on VP. Where VP moves left, move straight up over rooflet then up to lower off as for VP (from double RBs, not the U anchor lower down).
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Jason Lammers 2006
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Michael in Shorts
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16
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15m
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3m left of VP, below corner. Up the corner then over the overlap (BR) to tree belay.
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Craig Martin 1996
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*
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Michael in Vox
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18
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15m
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Start as for MiS. At the break above the BR, traverse right to join VP.
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Craig Martin 1996
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Digit Dave
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12
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15m
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Start as for MiS. Up corner then move left and up second vague corner.
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David Duke, Simon Duke 1990-05-17
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Central Area
The large area centred around the big corner crack around the arete from the Vox Populi Wall.
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Open to Public Scrutiny
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14
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20m
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Start below right hand slab. Ramble up slabs, clipping BRs as necessary. Used to have 4 BRs, but one may have fallen out recently.
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Garth Miller, Jay Williams 1992-07-04
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* *
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B
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15
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15m
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Start at vegetated corner 2m left of OtPS. Deduct a star if you avoid the 2nd pitch.
P1. 12m (14/15) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above. At top, either step left (14) to belay as for QDS, continue straight up past BR (15), or move right to tree (14).
P2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake 5m right of P1. Natural belay.
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P1. Craig Sloss 1991. P2. David Duke (solo) 1990
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The following route is on the upper tier.
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*
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Piccolo Luna
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20
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8m
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3m right of P2 of B. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off.
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Simon Vaughan 2004-01-20
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Back to ground level.
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*
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Quart de Seicle
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19
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15m
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3m left of B. Up the easy slab (2 BRs) to overhang (FH). Pull through overhang then move right (crux) to FH. Up (FH) to double RB lower off. Be careful through the crux - you could hit the ledge below if you fall.
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Garth Miller 1992-08-08
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*
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Deception
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19
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15m
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Up QDS until past the overhang. Move left and up past another FH to top (BB).
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Garth Miller 1992-11-28
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Deception Variant
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20
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15m
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Continue traversing left from the FH on D (runout - apparently there was a bolt here once).
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Garth Miller
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*
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C
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17
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15m
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Up slab as for QDS then move left to steep yellow corner. Up the corner (BRs and small wires) to tree belay.
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Tim Cartwright 1991
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C Piker's Variant
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15
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15m
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At stance halfway up corner, move left around arete and up the easy wall to rejoin C.
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Peter Monks 1997-11
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*
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In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness
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13
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20m
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Up to first BR on QDS, then move diagonally up and left and over bulges past BRs. Continue up (BRs) to tree belay. Rather runout.
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Garth Miller, Jay Williams 1991-12-27
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Snooze and You Lose
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14
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20m
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5m left of ItIotSH. Up the seam.
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Garth Miller (solo) 1991-12-27
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*
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Parents in Pain
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15
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20m
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2m left of SaYL. Up and over bulge (small wires - hard to protect) to prominent arete. Move easily up arete (FHs and BRs) to natural belay.
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Garth Miller, Jay Williams 1991-09-01
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Parents in Pain Pussy Variant
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13
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20m
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At bulging overhang, move right and up then rejoin PiP.
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D
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10
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20m
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2m left of PiP below large corner. Up the corner.
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David Duke (solo) 1990-03-12
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There's been a large bee hive below the overhang in the following section for quite some time. Take care if you're climbing here!
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* *
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Pre Pimple Pop
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19
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10m or 15m
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7m left of PiP, below imposing overhang. Up onto slab (BR). Out overhang to U anchor, or continue up juggy choss to top. 4 BRs in total (and optional cam between 3rd and 4th BRs).
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Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright, Craig Sloss 1991-07-04
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* *
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Judas Escariot
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21
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15m
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2m left of PPP. Hard move to gain slab then up through overhang and up corner above. All ring bolts with lower off on the right.
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Tim Cartwright 1991-07-06
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* *
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Mango Tango
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22
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15m
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Starts below small corner left of JE. Up corner, over small bulge then great moves up final face. 4 RBs to lower off.
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Garth Miller 1991-07-06
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E
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14
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15m
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Up MT, but continue up crack. Worthless.
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Flint Duxfield (solo)
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F (Project)
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25?
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15m
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7m left of MT. Dodgy bolts.
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Manchester United Wall
The wall to the left of the obvious corner, offering some great, and often solid at the grade, climbing.
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*
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Drill Attack
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23
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15m
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15m left of MT. Up (RB) then left and power through overhang. Just waiting for a chossy direct start!
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Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 1997
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* *
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Manchester United
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20
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15m
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1m left of PDA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3 RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off.
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Flying Voodoo
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25
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15m
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3m left of MU. Hard moves up face, over bulge and up thin face. 5 RBs to lower off.
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Mark Farrel
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*
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The Big Day Out
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24
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15m
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Left of TNMN. Stick clip FH then up to huge reach at 2nd FH. Continue up (3 more FHs) to cave (rap chain).
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Garth Miller 1992-07-08
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* * *
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Quickie Quimm Fill
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25
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12m
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3m left of TBDO, just around the arete. Superb rock and moves. Stick clip first BR then get ready to sidepull like there's no tomorrow. Move right to corner (funky moves) then up to thought provoking finish. 5 bolts in total to lower off.
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Graeme Hill 1997-05
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H (Project)
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??
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12m
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Start as for QQ. Heads right to arete and up. Note: this is NOT an open project. Please stay off unless invited to try it by Will.
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Will Watkins
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The Dead Horse Project (Bundy)
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PROJECT
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15
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PROJECT !! - Up QQ and past crux till 4th bolt, then move left on great pockets clipping a bolt. Then enter the crux on SA and up to new lower offs. 26ish ??
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Project - Jason Lammers
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* *
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Suspended Animation
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24M1
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10m
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A fantastic route up a superb line. 3m L of QQ. Stick dip first bolt, batman up to obvious jug, then up the crimpy wall to the crux past the last bolt.
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Garth Miller 1992-06-21
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*
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Green Gate
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22
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15
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Start just left of SA at the green grassy 'gate'. Open the gate !! and pull up the little corner to the pedestal. Edges, slopes and layaways up vertical wall after stepping right from the corner when you can.
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Simon Vaughan, 2012-09-15
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Ramble Scramble
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5
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10m
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At left end of wall. Up left slanting corner crack.
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Nicki Munro, Anton Weller 2004-11-14
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I
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10
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10m
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Below the crack left of RS. Up the crack.
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Craig Sloss
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The Boulder
Located downhill from SA is a large boulder with the following three climbs on it.
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I'd Rather be Gardening
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12
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10m
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At the left hand side of the boulder (facing uphill). Up the filthy wall with no pro. Absolutely worthless.
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Uncle Tom Cobbly and all
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J
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16
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7m
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On the left hand side of the bottom wall of the boulder. Hard start then up to chain (3 BRs).
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K
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16
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7m
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On the right hand side of the bottom wall of the boulder. Up (dodgy BRs).
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The Main Cave
The obvious massive cave with the high rooves, 50m left of SA. The first 5 routes are located on the small buttress just before and above the cave proper. Most of the routes in the cave itself are variants of one another.
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L
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8
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10m
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Twin diagonal cracks 30m left of SA. Good pro.
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Craig Sloss (solo)
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M
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17
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10m
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Arete left of L. Start up left side, then move right and up. No pro.
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Tim Cartwright (solo)
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N
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25
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10m
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Straight up left side of arete, with only 3 holds! No pro
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O
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14
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10m
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Chimney / corner left of N.
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Craig Sloss
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El Captain Pants
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17
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10m
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4m left and down from O, below prominent wall. Climb onto block and place gear out left (back it up). Follow the disappearing crack right to pocket then up pleasant wall (2 BRs) above.
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Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson 1998-03-14
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Three Wise Monkeys
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22
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10m
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Just left of ECP at blunt arete. Up past 2 BRs and a FH.
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Geordie Williamson, Fint Duxfield 1998-03-14
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* *
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White Limbo
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19
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20m
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As for ECP, at traverse line. Good jugging through a small section of the main roof. Traverse left (mid size cam and 2 BRs) to small roof (BR). Up and left (2 FHs) to double RB lower off.
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Garth Miller 1991-07-07
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What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded?
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19
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20m
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Below WL, just left of tree. Easy start up nice slab to BR then continue up (crossing WL) to upper wall. Move left to crack and follow it until forced right. Continue up and left to tree belay.
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Flint Duxfield 1998-04-21
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* *
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Opiate
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19
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20m
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Start: As for WWYSiIStYttGwL(!).
1. Up to first BR on WWYSiIStYttGwL. Step left and up to BR then continue up to cross WL (BR) and up the final wall (cam, BR) to dodgy lower off chain (used as an aid piece for the bolting of WL).
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Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield 1998-04-21
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* *
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White Limbo Direct
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19
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20m
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Up O to WL, then finish as for WL.
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Flint Duxfield. 1998-04
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*
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Desparate Liaisons
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27
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15m
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Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.
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Garth Miller 1992-08-20
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*
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Ultine Demence
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27
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15m
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4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain.
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Garth Miller 1993-01-28
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* *
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Controlled Hysteria
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25
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15m
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At 6th BR of UD, head left past BR to chain.
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Garth Miller 1991-09-01
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* *
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Diagonal du Fou
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23
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15m
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Up to 3rd BR on UD, then continue slightly left and over small roof (crux). Traverse left to lip then follow lip out right to the chain on CH. 9 BRs in total.
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Garth Miller 1992-06-06
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The Cave Direct (Project)
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21?
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15m
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3m left of UD. Up to join DdF then continue past 3 BRs. Go straight past an RB and the FH on CH to finish at the chains on CH.
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Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield
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*
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Diagonal Hysteria
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25
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15m
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Up TCD to 5th BR, then go straight ahead past an RB to join CH.
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Out on a Limb
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21
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10m
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10m left of TCD. Move right (natural pro) to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF.
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Flint Duxfield 1997
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Fright of the Bumbly Bee
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12
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40m
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As for OoaL, but at roof continue with feet on lip (natural pro). Continue round to double RBs on WL. Rap.
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Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson 1996
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Empire of the Senseless
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17
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10m
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Start as for OoaL. Straight up (U anchor at top of wall for top roping).
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Garth Miller (solo)
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20m left of the cave is a thin crack / seam. This is a V0 top rope problem called "Seamingly Sane". 30m past that is a collection of V3 - V5 boulder problems on a pocketed wall.
The following 3 climbs are located 50m beyond the pocketed wall at a prominent corner.
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People Everywhere
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19
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15m
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Start below large easy corner. Up the corner then move right to the crack and up. A bold lead.
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Everyday People
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17
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15m
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As for PE. Follow the corner then blast up the headwall. No pro on headwall.
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Garth Miller (solo)
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Weird People
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18/19
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15m
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Up EP to headwall, then move left until 1m right of the arete. Up. No pro on headwall.
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