Lanagans Falls

50 minutes

Crag faces south-east to north-east



Lanagan's Falls is a series of largish buttresses and walls formed of dioritic rock. In parts it is massive, in others it is almost columnar. Flying Buttress is the tallest section, being about 120-130 metres high. The major section of the crag is approximately 300 metres wide, but several more subsiduary sections extend both left and right of this, adding almost as much width again. The rock provides both good holds and friction. However then wet the rock tends to be rather slippery. The black rock is superb, but when climbing on the red/yellowish coloured rock, some care is recommended as this colour usually indicates deep weathering. New routes often require some cleaning, but once this has been completed the rock underneath is usually of top quality.


This crag had been seen from Perpendicular Rock for several years, but at that distance it appears broken and low angled; and the route to the base of the crag somewhat rugged. Consequently, it did not evoke any interest. During the 70's several attempts were made, without success, to reach the crag from the top and from side spurs. In March 1982, Ron Miller and Harry Luxford made the first climbing visit to the crag. Not only did the walk-up turnout to be fairly easy, but the surrounding environs were rather pleasant. The result of the first trip - a healthy dose of "respect". The weeks later Kevin Westren and Harry camped at the Goodmans Ford for five days and commenced the crag's development. The first completed climb was Wonga Crack on Raven Wall. Lanagan's Falls is rather cold in winter, but the enthusiasm was so high that another eight climbs were completed between April and August, by Harry and Kevin. This was during a period of drought, thus they were able to do the actual falls in the dry, now the route Slipstream. The warmth of Spring brought Bruce Cameron out of hibernation and development accelerated. The rest of the year produced six routes in September, five in October, nine in November and three in December. All bar one done by Bruce and Harry. By now the crag was no longer a secret, many climbers began to visit the area. But the number of new routes increased only slowly - though not from a lack of potential. An interim guide was produced in 1984. But the time was not right for the crag to be popular. Many people did not like the walk up, or the drive from Sydney, or the wildness of the place; and at that time there was plenty of new sandstone areas being developed. The area was almost forgotten. Maybe this guidebook will help change this. [Ho ho ho - this was written in 1998!]


Lanagans Falls is located on the opposite side of the valley from Perpendicular Rock. Cross Goodmans Ford (now a bridge) and continue up the road for 1400 metres to where the creek crosses. There is lots of space, so parking is easy. The most obvious way to the crag is to simply follow the creek bed. This involves quite a bit of boulder hopping and some minor climbing. There is an old track on the left (southern) valley side which joins the creek at about 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately, this track can be hard to find and thus can take longer then the creek bed route. The walk from car to crag takes about 50 minutes. There has been a change in the status of the creek area, as a track to allow motorised vehicles has recently been constructed, and a tape barrier across the track. It may be necessary to see the camp manager/owner for permission to walk up the creek bed - I suspect his main concern is to keep out trail-bikes and 4 wheel drives. This crag is on private property.

Left of Waterfall

Playing Truant 8 40m
An easy way up the left wall. Start: Immediately above pool. 1. 40m. Follow series of corners and ledges.
H.Luxford, S.Kitchen, Sep 84

Flying Buttress - Shady Side Lower

* Slipstream 11? 175m
Grade is for when a drought is on. Start: Just follow the stream - it is the actual falls. 1. 20m. Chimney through hole, up to ledge. 2. 20m. Up to next ledge. 3. 20m (crux). Rightish then up. 4,5,6. 100m. Easily up. 7. 15m. Bridge onto block, right into corner and up.
K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82
Shadows From The Past 15 55m
Some enjoyable moves on steepish, black wall. Start: First crack on right wall in the black gully. 1. 42m (crux). Straight up. 2. 13m. Left to abseil tree.
H.Luxford, K.Westren, Aug 82
The Rites of Spring 12 150m
An enjoyable meander that stays just left of nose all the way to the top. Start: Crack immediately above the pool. 1. 20m. Up corner to steep part, then left, up to belay. 2. 25m. Onto block, then across to tree. 3. 25m. Up as will to large ledge. 4. 30m (crux). Up cracks right on nose, then left and up to trees. 5. 5m. Up to largest tree. 6. 25m. Up corner above tree. 7. 20m. To top as will.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82

Flying Buttress - Shady Side Upper

The easiest way to reach this area is to climb Peewee, cross the Flight Deck and move left around the buttress. Green Gully will then be on your right.

Edges 7 20m
The rock gives the climb its name. Start: Left side of Green Gully. 1. 15m. Up crack to ledge. 2. 5m. To top.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron, Dec 82
* * Skyrider 18/19 80m
A very good climb. Start: The major corner-crack on right side of Green Gully. 1. 20m. Up wide corner to ledge. 2. 30m (crux). Up great corner, belay at roof. 3. 30m. Climb roof via huge wedged blocks to left, up weakness to ledges.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) 1982
Agapornis 17/18 50m
Top pitch is a good wall and crack. Start: On eastern side of Green Gully, the corner behind the tree. 1. 30m. Up corners to largish horizontal tree. 2. 20m (crux). Crack left of tree - straight up.
B.Cameron, K.Westren (alt leads) H.Luxford, Sep 82
Stone The Crows 15 45m
Top pitch is enjoyable. Start: Left of nose on Flight Deck. 1. 20m. Tight chimney to crack, up corner to ledge and tree. 2. 5m. Across to trees. 3. 20m (crux). Rightish to small wall, up to corner, to double cracks, left to wider crack, then up.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82

Flying Buttress - Sunny Side

This is the eastern and north-eastern sides of Flying Buttress.

Family Secrets 9 50m
A quick way to get to the Flight Deck. Start: Through the tree, high to right of pool. 1 and 2. Just follow the easiest way through the vegetation.
H.Luxford, S.Kitchen Sep 84
Anniversary Route 13 145m
First climb on Flying Buttress. Kevin had celebrated his twenty-fifth year of climbing just two days previously. Start: Centre of lower wall - directly below obvious central crack and corner. 1. 35m. Up corner-crack. 2. 30m. Through the tree to slop then as will to base of main corner. 3. 20m. Mixed tree and rock climbing to ledge with gum tree. 4. 20m (crux). Up cracks, then right up to large ledge. 5. 25m. Rightish onto flake and pinnacle, back onto wall then up to large ledge. Around to the right of summit blocks. 6. 15m. Up blocks to right OR straight up crack.
H.Luxford, K.Westren Apr 82
* * Pegasus 18/19 120m
A varied and enjoyable series of corners and cracks up front of Flying Buttress. Start: Marked. At left sloping ramp, goes straight above marker. 1. 25m. Up slab to thin crack and corner. 2. 30m. To widish corner-crack then series of crack in steep wall. 3. 20m (crux). Easiest looking crack - slightly overhanging, up to tree. 4. 45m. Series of crack and corners tending slightly left.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Sep 82
Peewee 5 60m
A way to Flight Deck. Original start corner/crack further left and down. Start: As for Flight of Fancy. 1. 30m. Diagonally left to nose of buttress. 2. 30m. Up as will.
H.Luxford Sep 82
Flight of Fancy 16 140m
Variety of pitches, including three "steps" at top. Start: Marked. As for Peewee - move left to original line, up cracks etc. 1. 35m. Up to large ledge. 2. 18m. Either crack to ledge. 3. 15m. Corner to small tree. 4. 20m. Corner-crack to ledge, slightly left, up to largish ledge. 5. 12m. First of three steps. 6. 15m (crux). Second step. 7. 25m. Third step - chimney.
H.Luxford, K.Westren (alt leads) May 82
* On A Wing And A Prayer 16M0 140m
A couple of very enjoyable pitches. Start: Marked. At 'open space' at righthand end of Flying Buttress - chose your own line through variety of cracks and corners. 1 and 2. 50m. Choice of cracks and corners to ledge - wide corner plus 2 cracks in red wall. 3. 20m. Left to small tre, up behind this, right past overhang then up to ledge. 4. 30m. Right to main line - short wall then slabbish corner. 5. 15m (crux). Onto block then up crack. 6. 25m. Up corner, on block, across to cracks, up.
K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) May 82
* Snappa 21M0 70m
A hard and varied route. Start: Obvious yellow ramp on right of Flying Buttress. 1. 10m. Up to ramp. 2. 40m. Yellow ramp to large block, up cracks to left. 3. 10m (crux). Finger crack in orange wall. 4. 10m. Corner and cracks.
B.Cameron, J.Fantini (alt leads) Jan 83

The Nest

Easiest way to the start of these climbs is to do Raven Wall. Start at Wonga Crack, move diagonally left up lower ramp to corner. Up this, then left across obvious left - belay needed - to trees.

Sparrow 6 25m
Easy way to top. Start: Left end of Nest. 1. 25m. Up crack into corner then chimney.
H.Luxford, K.Seddon Apr 83
Scallywag 10 25m
Superb rock. 1. 25m. Follow easy crack right of Sparrow.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford, Sep 82
Yibb-Yabba 15 25m
Start: Right of Scallywag. 1. 25m. To ledge, widish crack to roof, right, then squeeze to top.
B.Cameron, W.Moon Oct 83
* Leading Edge 12 25m
Good climbing on good rock. Start: Obvious corner out of Nest. 1. 8m. Crack and corner. 2. 17m. Straight up.
H.Luxford, K.Westren (alt leads) R.Miller, Aug 82
* Little Gem 18/19 16m
Steep crack. Start: As for Leading Edge. 1. 15m. Thin crack in right wall.
J.Fantini, B.Cameron, Jan 83
Tailspin 14 30m
Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree. 1. 15m (crux). Up to tree. 2. 15m. Up flake to top.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron Sep 82
Fools Errand 13/14 30m
A fair climb. Start: Diagonal corner-crack in right side of Nest. 1. 12m. Up corner to ledge. 2. 18m (crux). Follow diagonal crack.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82
Rising Sun 15 30m
Two fair pitches. Stat: Right of Fools Errand. Cross over Fools Errand at belay. 1. 10m (crux). Up corner, left to block. 2. 20m. Straight up to top of tower.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82
Skylark 16 27m
Pleasant first pitch. Start: Overhang behind tree. 1. 13m. Up crack. 2. 14m (crux). Corner-crack at rear.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82
Digit 18 10m
Good fun. Start: Crack opposite summit pinnacle. 1. 10m. Up crack.
W.Moon, B.Cameron Oct 83

Raven Wall

Opulant 18/19 20m
Felt harder than 18 to me. Start: Orange corner in left end of middle ledge on Raven Wall. 1. 20m. Up cracks then left into corner.
J.Fantini, B.Cameron Jan 83
Beauty 21/22 20m
Thin climbing on steep black wall. Start: Left end of Raven Wall, below overhanging gum tree. 1. 20m. Up black seam past bolt.
G.Bradbury, G.Moore 1983
Pretty Polly 11 110m
More enjoyable than it looks - thankfully. Start: As for Wonga Crack. 1. 50m. Easily up to tree, onto higher ramp, left to corner, then up to large ledge. 2. 18m (crux). Up orange wall, into corner, up to tree. 3. 18m. Widish corner-crack, to ledge then right to back of ledge. 4. 20m. Delightful chimney to top.
K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82
Wonga Crack 14 90m
First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall. 1. 25m. Up to, and around, bulge to top of block. 2. 10m. Corner to ledge. 3. 15m. To tree. 4. 25m (crux). Obvious crack to ledge. 5. 15m. Up as will to top.
H.Luxford, K.Westren, Apr 82
Man of Diamond 14 90m
Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack. 1. 45m. Up black wall to piton, slightly left to ledge. 2. 45m. Up Wonga Crack to rising traverse line - across this.
W.Moon, B.Moon Dec 82
* Corvus 12? 90m
A good first pitch then easily to top. Start: Marked. Fairly obvious leftwards slanting weakness leading to thin crack. 1. 25m (crux). Up wall to ledge. 2. 10m. Right, then corner to shrubs. 3. 35m. Corner and crack. 4. 20m. Up as will to top.
K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 82
* * Dance Of The Butterfly 14 30m
Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack. 1. 30m. Follow line to tree. Either abseil off OR up as will to top.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron, W.Moon Nov 82
* * Gentle On The Breeze 13/14 80m
Very enjoyable slab and corner. Start: Marked. As for Dance Of The Butterfly, but moves right at 7 metres. 1. 40m (crux). Up 7m, rightish to small tree, slightly left, up to ledge. 2. 40m. Corners behind blocks, then corner and crack in black wall.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82
Shattered Pillar 17 80m
Third pitch provides interest. Start: Easy looking crack at right end of Raven Wall. 1. 10m. Up to tre. 2. 15m. Up corners to largish ledge. 3. 10m (crux). Orange corner. 4. 45m. Left to crack, then to corner, to top.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Nov 82
Hidden Corner 10 70m
An enjoyable, easy climb. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Corner just into gully at far end of wall. 1. 25m. Corner-crack to ledge. 2. 10m. Left over block into wide corner, to ledge. 3. 35m. Left around nose to crack, to corner, up to top.
H.Luxford, S.Chambers, Nov 82

Middle Buttress

Cowboy 13/14 85m
Follows easiest route up nose of buttress. Start: Short corner on lower right side of buttress. Route follows easiest line up the buttress - that is all I can remember about it.
H.Luxford, J.Wayne Mar 84
Pipedream 13 70m
A long, fairly easy chimney. Start: Gully separating Middle and Bowerbird Buttresses. 1. 13m. Chimney past two lots of blocks. 2. 20m. Up to large blocks. 3. 35m. To blocks, through at rear, up to grassy slope. 4. ?. Up grassy gully to top.
H.Luxford, K.Seddon Apr 83

Bowerbird Buttress

Second largest buttress, the one with obvious crack lines and corners.

* * * Soar The Wild Wind 18/19 75m
Good climbing in a grand situation! Start: Up ramp at base of buttress, to tree. 1. 20m. Onto ledge then into corner, up to small ledge. 2. 20m. Continue to larger ledge. 3. 17m. Up to roof - poor belay! 4. 18m (crux). Out under roof then up.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83
* Thunderbirds Are Go 21 75m
Superb line. Start: The orange crack system with small overhang. Giles does not remember much about the route, so I cannot give you a description.
G.Bradbury, G.Moore Apr 83
Galah 17/18 75m
A wandering route. Start: Middle of front of buttress. 1. 6m. Scramble up to blank corner. 2. 10m (crux). Up then into crack in right wall, to slopey ledge. 3. 40m. Right to widish crack, up, then diagonally left, up corner to tree. 4. 24m. Up twin cracks.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83
Sericulus 15/16 76m
First climb on Bowerbird Buttress. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Right end of buttress. Large flake and weakeness to tree. 1. 18m. Up to large tree. 2. 18m. Crack to nose, then left to largish ledge. 3. 20m. Left into corner-crack, to tree then right to corner. 4. 20m (crux). Up corner.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82
* Balmain Bugs 22/23 70m
Thin and steep. Good looking line. Start: As for Sericulus. 1. 18m. Up to tree. 2. 35m (crux). Thin crack then wall and over block. 3. 15m. Thin black crack and small roof.
S.Moon, B.Cameron (alt leads), Mar 85

Peregrine Point

Left Branch 14 75m
Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail. 1. 30m. Leftish up corner to below tree, then left into smaller corner-crack, to tree. 2. 35m (crux). Left into crack, to wall, to corner, to slight overhang, to ledge. 3. 10m. Up corner.
H.Luxford, R.Miller Nov 82
Main Route 11 75m
Second pitch worthwhile. Start: Just left of Silvertail. 1. 30m. Leftish up corner to tree. 2. 30m (crux). Into corner-chimney, to ledge, across and up to chimney. 3. 10m. To top.
H.Luxford, R.Miller Nov 82
Right Branch 9 60m
Should be a good beginners climb when fully cleaned. Start: As for Main Route. 1. 30m. Leftish up corner to tree. 2. 10m. Rightish across chimney to crack and flake, up to tree. 3. 20m. Left to corner crack.
H.Luxford, R.Miller Nov 82
* * * Silvertail 16 42m
A first rate crack and climb. Start: Obvious hand size crack. 1. 42m. Straight up.
H.Luxford, B.Cameron Nov 82
* Houken Ensemble 20/21 50m
Looks harder than 20. Start: Corner right of Silvertail. 1. 50m. Up to roof, thin crack and pockets to tree.
S.Moon, B.Cameron Mar 85
Wallopers 21M0 60m
A good first pitch, the second is a shocker. Start: Thin crack in wall 10m left of Condor Corner. 1. 15m (crux). Up thin crack, 2 rests. 2. 45m. Up wide crack in orange wall.
T.Williams, B.Cameron Apr 85
Condor Corner 19/20 55m
An interesting first pitch. Big gear needed. Start: Obvious, largish corner on point of Peregrine. 1. 40m. Straight up. 2. 15m. Up again, widish bulge.
B.Cameron, H.Luxford Nov 82
Joe Banana Blake 12 25m
Looks a bit scrubby. Start: Corner right of Condor Corner. 1. ?. Up corner to tree. 2. ?. Right, up rubbish, or escape right.
B.Cameron, B.Moon Dec 82

North Crag

The broken and short area at most northern part of gully. The rock is cleaner than it looks from the falls.

Cold Comfort 12 40m
A bit of a grunt. 1. 40m. Crack/chimney between wall and left side of protruding buttress.
H.Luxford, K.Westren, S.Parkes Jun 83
Cleavage 13 40m
Top section is worthwhile. 1. 40m. Widish crack/chimney on left of protruding buttress.
H.Luxford, T.Seddon Jun 83
Fun Time 11 45m
First section OK. 1. 40m. Double crack on front of protruding buttress.
H.Luxford, T.Seddon Jun 83