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IntroductionLanagan's Falls is a series of largish buttresses and walls formed of dioritic rock. In parts it is massive, in others it is almost columnar. Flying Buttress is the tallest section, being about 120-130 metres high. The major section of the crag is approximately 300 metres wide, but several more subsiduary sections extend both left and right of this, adding almost as much width again. The rock provides both good holds and friction. However then wet the rock tends to be rather slippery. The black rock is superb, but when climbing on the red/yellowish coloured rock, some care is recommended as this colour usually indicates deep weathering. New routes often require some cleaning, but once this has been completed the rock underneath is usually of top quality. |
HistoryThis crag had been seen from Perpendicular Rock for several years, but at that distance it appears broken and low angled; and the route to the base of the crag somewhat rugged. Consequently, it did not evoke any interest. During the 70's several attempts were made, without success, to reach the crag from the top and from side spurs. In March 1982, Ron Miller and Harry Luxford made the first climbing visit to the crag. Not only did the walk-up turnout to be fairly easy, but the surrounding environs were rather pleasant. The result of the first trip - a healthy dose of "respect". The weeks later Kevin Westren and Harry camped at the Goodmans Ford for five days and commenced the crag's development. The first completed climb was Wonga Crack on Raven Wall. Lanagan's Falls is rather cold in winter, but the enthusiasm was so high that another eight climbs were completed between April and August, by Harry and Kevin. This was during a period of drought, thus they were able to do the actual falls in the dry, now the route Slipstream. The warmth of Spring brought Bruce Cameron out of hibernation and development accelerated. The rest of the year produced six routes in September, five in October, nine in November and three in December. All bar one done by Bruce and Harry. By now the crag was no longer a secret, many climbers began to visit the area. But the number of new routes increased only slowly - though not from a lack of potential. An interim guide was produced in 1984. But the time was not right for the crag to be popular. Many people did not like the walk up, or the drive from Sydney, or the wildness of the place; and at that time there was plenty of new sandstone areas being developed. The area was almost forgotten. Maybe this guidebook will help change this. [Ho ho ho - this was written in 1998!] |
AccessLanagans Falls is located on the opposite side of the valley from Perpendicular Rock. Cross Goodmans Ford (now a bridge) and continue up the road for 1400 metres to where the creek crosses. There is lots of space, so parking is easy. The most obvious way to the crag is to simply follow the creek bed. This involves quite a bit of boulder hopping and some minor climbing. There is an old track on the left (southern) valley side which joins the creek at about 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately, this track can be hard to find and thus can take longer then the creek bed route. The walk from car to crag takes about 50 minutes. There has been a change in the status of the creek area, as a track to allow motorised vehicles has recently been constructed, and a tape barrier across the track. It may be necessary to see the camp manager/owner for permission to walk up the creek bed - I suspect his main concern is to keep out trail-bikes and 4 wheel drives. This crag is on private property. |
| Playing Truant | 8 | 40m | |||
| An easy way up the left wall. Start: Immediately above pool. 1. 40m. Follow series of corners and ledges. | |||||
| H.Luxford, S.Kitchen, Sep 84 | |||||
| * | Slipstream | 11? | 175m | ||
| Grade is for when a drought is on. Start: Just follow the stream - it is the actual falls. 1. 20m. Chimney through hole, up to ledge. 2. 20m. Up to next ledge. 3. 20m (crux). Rightish then up. 4,5,6. 100m. Easily up. 7. 15m. Bridge onto block, right into corner and up. | |||||
| K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82 | |||||
| Shadows From The Past | 15 | 55m | |||
| Some enjoyable moves on steepish, black wall. Start: First crack on right wall in the black gully. 1. 42m (crux). Straight up. 2. 13m. Left to abseil tree. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Westren, Aug 82 | |||||
| The Rites of Spring | 12 | 150m | |||
| An enjoyable meander that stays just left of nose all the way to the top. Start: Crack immediately above the pool. 1. 20m. Up corner to steep part, then left, up to belay. 2. 25m. Onto block, then across to tree. 3. 25m. Up as will to large ledge. 4. 30m (crux). Up cracks right on nose, then left and up to trees. 5. 5m. Up to largest tree. 6. 25m. Up corner above tree. 7. 20m. To top as will. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82 | |||||
The easiest way to reach this area is to climb Peewee, cross the Flight Deck and move left around the buttress. Green Gully will then be on your right.
| Edges | 7 | 20m | |||
| The rock gives the climb its name. Start: Left side of Green Gully. 1. 15m. Up crack to ledge. 2. 5m. To top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron, Dec 82 | |||||
| * * | Skyrider | 18/19 | 80m | ||
| A very good climb. Start: The major corner-crack on right side of Green Gully. 1. 20m. Up wide corner to ledge. 2. 30m (crux). Up great corner, belay at roof. 3. 30m. Climb roof via huge wedged blocks to left, up weakness to ledges. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) 1982 | |||||
| Agapornis | 17/18 | 50m | |||
| Top pitch is a good wall and crack. Start: On eastern side of Green Gully, the corner behind the tree. 1. 30m. Up corners to largish horizontal tree. 2. 20m (crux). Crack left of tree - straight up. | |||||
| B.Cameron, K.Westren (alt leads) H.Luxford, Sep 82 | |||||
| Stone The Crows | 15 | 45m | |||
| Top pitch is enjoyable. Start: Left of nose on Flight Deck. 1. 20m. Tight chimney to crack, up corner to ledge and tree. 2. 5m. Across to trees. 3. 20m (crux). Rightish to small wall, up to corner, to double cracks, left to wider crack, then up. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82 | |||||
This is the eastern and north-eastern sides of Flying Buttress.
| Family Secrets | 9 | 50m | |||
| A quick way to get to the Flight Deck. Start: Through the tree, high to right of pool. 1 and 2. Just follow the easiest way through the vegetation. | |||||
| H.Luxford, S.Kitchen Sep 84 | |||||
| Anniversary Route | 13 | 145m | |||
| First climb on Flying Buttress. Kevin had celebrated his twenty-fifth year of climbing just two days previously. Start: Centre of lower wall - directly below obvious central crack and corner. 1. 35m. Up corner-crack. 2. 30m. Through the tree to slop then as will to base of main corner. 3. 20m. Mixed tree and rock climbing to ledge with gum tree. 4. 20m (crux). Up cracks, then right up to large ledge. 5. 25m. Rightish onto flake and pinnacle, back onto wall then up to large ledge. Around to the right of summit blocks. 6. 15m. Up blocks to right OR straight up crack. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Westren Apr 82 | |||||
| * * | Pegasus | 18/19 | 120m | ||
| A varied and enjoyable series of corners and cracks up front of Flying Buttress. Start: Marked. At left sloping ramp, goes straight above marker. 1. 25m. Up slab to thin crack and corner. 2. 30m. To widish corner-crack then series of crack in steep wall. 3. 20m (crux). Easiest looking crack - slightly overhanging, up to tree. 4. 45m. Series of crack and corners tending slightly left. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Sep 82 | |||||
| Peewee | 5 | 60m | |||
| A way to Flight Deck. Original start corner/crack further left and down. Start: As for Flight of Fancy. 1. 30m. Diagonally left to nose of buttress. 2. 30m. Up as will. | |||||
| H.Luxford Sep 82 | |||||
| Flight of Fancy | 16 | 140m | |||
| Variety of pitches, including three "steps" at top. Start: Marked. As for Peewee - move left to original line, up cracks etc. 1. 35m. Up to large ledge. 2. 18m. Either crack to ledge. 3. 15m. Corner to small tree. 4. 20m. Corner-crack to ledge, slightly left, up to largish ledge. 5. 12m. First of three steps. 6. 15m (crux). Second step. 7. 25m. Third step - chimney. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Westren (alt leads) May 82 | |||||
| * | On A Wing And A Prayer | 16M0 | 140m | ||
| A couple of very enjoyable pitches. Start: Marked. At 'open space' at righthand end of Flying Buttress - chose your own line through variety of cracks and corners. 1 and 2. 50m. Choice of cracks and corners to ledge - wide corner plus 2 cracks in red wall. 3. 20m. Left to small tre, up behind this, right past overhang then up to ledge. 4. 30m. Right to main line - short wall then slabbish corner. 5. 15m (crux). Onto block then up crack. 6. 25m. Up corner, on block, across to cracks, up. | |||||
| K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) May 82 | |||||
| * | Snappa | 21M0 | 70m | ||
| A hard and varied route. Start: Obvious yellow ramp on right of Flying Buttress. 1. 10m. Up to ramp. 2. 40m. Yellow ramp to large block, up cracks to left. 3. 10m (crux). Finger crack in orange wall. 4. 10m. Corner and cracks. | |||||
| B.Cameron, J.Fantini (alt leads) Jan 83 | |||||
Easiest way to the start of these climbs is to do Raven Wall. Start at Wonga Crack, move diagonally left up lower ramp to corner. Up this, then left across obvious left - belay needed - to trees.
| Sparrow | 6 | 25m | |||
| Easy way to top. Start: Left end of Nest. 1. 25m. Up crack into corner then chimney. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Seddon Apr 83 | |||||
| Scallywag | 10 | 25m | |||
| Superb rock. 1. 25m. Follow easy crack right of Sparrow. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford, Sep 82 | |||||
| Yibb-Yabba | 15 | 25m | |||
| Start: Right of Scallywag. 1. 25m. To ledge, widish crack to roof, right, then squeeze to top. | |||||
| B.Cameron, W.Moon Oct 83 | |||||
| * | Leading Edge | 12 | 25m | ||
| Good climbing on good rock. Start: Obvious corner out of Nest. 1. 8m. Crack and corner. 2. 17m. Straight up. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Westren (alt leads) R.Miller, Aug 82 | |||||
| * | Little Gem | 18/19 | 16m | ||
| Steep crack. Start: As for Leading Edge. 1. 15m. Thin crack in right wall. | |||||
| J.Fantini, B.Cameron, Jan 83 | |||||
| Tailspin | 14 | 30m | |||
| Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree. 1. 15m (crux). Up to tree. 2. 15m. Up flake to top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron Sep 82 | |||||
| Fools Errand | 13/14 | 30m | |||
| A fair climb. Start: Diagonal corner-crack in right side of Nest. 1. 12m. Up corner to ledge. 2. 18m (crux). Follow diagonal crack. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82 | |||||
| Rising Sun | 15 | 30m | |||
| Two fair pitches. Stat: Right of Fools Errand. Cross over Fools Errand at belay. 1. 10m (crux). Up corner, left to block. 2. 20m. Straight up to top of tower. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82 | |||||
| Skylark | 16 | 27m | |||
| Pleasant first pitch. Start: Overhang behind tree. 1. 13m. Up crack. 2. 14m (crux). Corner-crack at rear. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82 | |||||
| Digit | 18 | 10m | |||
| Good fun. Start: Crack opposite summit pinnacle. 1. 10m. Up crack. | |||||
| W.Moon, B.Cameron Oct 83 | |||||
| Opulant | 18/19 | 20m | |||
| Felt harder than 18 to me. Start: Orange corner in left end of middle ledge on Raven Wall. 1. 20m. Up cracks then left into corner. | |||||
| J.Fantini, B.Cameron Jan 83 | |||||
| Beauty | 21/22 | 20m | |||
| Thin climbing on steep black wall. Start: Left end of Raven Wall, below overhanging gum tree. 1. 20m. Up black seam past bolt. | |||||
| G.Bradbury, G.Moore 1983 | |||||
| Pretty Polly | 11 | 110m | |||
| More enjoyable than it looks - thankfully. Start: As for Wonga Crack. 1. 50m. Easily up to tree, onto higher ramp, left to corner, then up to large ledge. 2. 18m (crux). Up orange wall, into corner, up to tree. 3. 18m. Widish corner-crack, to ledge then right to back of ledge. 4. 20m. Delightful chimney to top. | |||||
| K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82 | |||||
| Wonga Crack | 14 | 90m | |||
| First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall. 1. 25m. Up to, and around, bulge to top of block. 2. 10m. Corner to ledge. 3. 15m. To tree. 4. 25m (crux). Obvious crack to ledge. 5. 15m. Up as will to top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Westren, Apr 82 | |||||
| Man of Diamond | 14 | 90m | |||
| Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack. 1. 45m. Up black wall to piton, slightly left to ledge. 2. 45m. Up Wonga Crack to rising traverse line - across this. | |||||
| W.Moon, B.Moon Dec 82 | |||||
| * | Corvus | 12? | 90m | ||
| A good first pitch then easily to top. Start: Marked. Fairly obvious leftwards slanting weakness leading to thin crack. 1. 25m (crux). Up wall to ledge. 2. 10m. Right, then corner to shrubs. 3. 35m. Corner and crack. 4. 20m. Up as will to top. | |||||
| K.Westren, H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 82 | |||||
| * * | Dance Of The Butterfly | 14 | 30m | ||
| Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack. 1. 30m. Follow line to tree. Either abseil off OR up as will to top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron, W.Moon Nov 82 | |||||
| * * | Gentle On The Breeze | 13/14 | 80m | ||
| Very enjoyable slab and corner. Start: Marked. As for Dance Of The Butterfly, but moves right at 7 metres. 1. 40m (crux). Up 7m, rightish to small tree, slightly left, up to ledge. 2. 40m. Corners behind blocks, then corner and crack in black wall. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82 | |||||
| Shattered Pillar | 17 | 80m | |||
| Third pitch provides interest. Start: Easy looking crack at right end of Raven Wall. 1. 10m. Up to tre. 2. 15m. Up corners to largish ledge. 3. 10m (crux). Orange corner. 4. 45m. Left to crack, then to corner, to top. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Nov 82 | |||||
| Hidden Corner | 10 | 70m | |||
| An enjoyable, easy climb. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Corner just into gully at far end of wall. 1. 25m. Corner-crack to ledge. 2. 10m. Left over block into wide corner, to ledge. 3. 35m. Left around nose to crack, to corner, up to top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, S.Chambers, Nov 82 | |||||
| Cowboy | 13/14 | 85m | |||
| Follows easiest route up nose of buttress. Start: Short corner on lower right side of buttress. Route follows easiest line up the buttress - that is all I can remember about it. | |||||
| H.Luxford, J.Wayne Mar 84 | |||||
| Pipedream | 13 | 70m | |||
| A long, fairly easy chimney. Start: Gully separating Middle and Bowerbird Buttresses. 1. 13m. Chimney past two lots of blocks. 2. 20m. Up to large blocks. 3. 35m. To blocks, through at rear, up to grassy slope. 4. ?. Up grassy gully to top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Seddon Apr 83 | |||||
Second largest buttress, the one with obvious crack lines and corners.
| * * * | Soar The Wild Wind | 18/19 | 75m | ||
| Good climbing in a grand situation! Start: Up ramp at base of buttress, to tree. 1. 20m. Onto ledge then into corner, up to small ledge. 2. 20m. Continue to larger ledge. 3. 17m. Up to roof - poor belay! 4. 18m (crux). Out under roof then up. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83 | |||||
| * | Thunderbirds Are Go | 21 | 75m | ||
| Superb line. Start: The orange crack system with small overhang. Giles does not remember much about the route, so I cannot give you a description. | |||||
| G.Bradbury, G.Moore Apr 83 | |||||
| Galah | 17/18 | 75m | |||
| A wandering route. Start: Middle of front of buttress. 1. 6m. Scramble up to blank corner. 2. 10m (crux). Up then into crack in right wall, to slopey ledge. 3. 40m. Right to widish crack, up, then diagonally left, up corner to tree. 4. 24m. Up twin cracks. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83 | |||||
| Sericulus | 15/16 | 76m | |||
| First climb on Bowerbird Buttress. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Right end of buttress. Large flake and weakeness to tree. 1. 18m. Up to large tree. 2. 18m. Crack to nose, then left to largish ledge. 3. 20m. Left into corner-crack, to tree then right to corner. 4. 20m (crux). Up corner. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82 | |||||
| * | Balmain Bugs | 22/23 | 70m | ||
| Thin and steep. Good looking line. Start: As for Sericulus. 1. 18m. Up to tree. 2. 35m (crux). Thin crack then wall and over block. 3. 15m. Thin black crack and small roof. | |||||
| S.Moon, B.Cameron (alt leads), Mar 85 | |||||
| Left Branch | 14 | 75m | |||
| Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail. 1. 30m. Leftish up corner to below tree, then left into smaller corner-crack, to tree. 2. 35m (crux). Left into crack, to wall, to corner, to slight overhang, to ledge. 3. 10m. Up corner. | |||||
| H.Luxford, R.Miller Nov 82 | |||||
| Main Route | 11 | 75m | |||
| Second pitch worthwhile. Start: Just left of Silvertail. 1. 30m. Leftish up corner to tree. 2. 30m (crux). Into corner-chimney, to ledge, across and up to chimney. 3. 10m. To top. | |||||
| H.Luxford, R.Miller Nov 82 | |||||
| Right Branch | 9 | 60m | |||
| Should be a good beginners climb when fully cleaned. Start: As for Main Route. 1. 30m. Leftish up corner to tree. 2. 10m. Rightish across chimney to crack and flake, up to tree. 3. 20m. Left to corner crack. | |||||
| H.Luxford, R.Miller Nov 82 | |||||
| * * * | Silvertail | 16 | 42m | ||
| A first rate crack and climb. Start: Obvious hand size crack. 1. 42m. Straight up. | |||||
| H.Luxford, B.Cameron Nov 82 | |||||
| * | Houken Ensemble | 20/21 | 50m | ||
| Looks harder than 20. Start: Corner right of Silvertail. 1. 50m. Up to roof, thin crack and pockets to tree. | |||||
| S.Moon, B.Cameron Mar 85 | |||||
| Wallopers | 21M0 | 60m | |||
| A good first pitch, the second is a shocker. Start: Thin crack in wall 10m left of Condor Corner. 1. 15m (crux). Up thin crack, 2 rests. 2. 45m. Up wide crack in orange wall. | |||||
| T.Williams, B.Cameron Apr 85 | |||||
| Condor Corner | 19/20 | 55m | |||
| An interesting first pitch. Big gear needed. Start: Obvious, largish corner on point of Peregrine. 1. 40m. Straight up. 2. 15m. Up again, widish bulge. | |||||
| B.Cameron, H.Luxford Nov 82 | |||||
| Joe Banana Blake | 12 | 25m | |||
| Looks a bit scrubby. Start: Corner right of Condor Corner. 1. ?. Up corner to tree. 2. ?. Right, up rubbish, or escape right. | |||||
| B.Cameron, B.Moon Dec 82 | |||||
North Crag
The broken and short area at most northern part of gully. The rock is cleaner than it looks from the falls.
| Cold Comfort | 12 | 40m | |||
| A bit of a grunt. 1. 40m. Crack/chimney between wall and left side of protruding buttress. | |||||
| H.Luxford, K.Westren, S.Parkes Jun 83 | |||||
| Cleavage | 13 | 40m | |||
| Top section is worthwhile. 1. 40m. Widish crack/chimney on left of protruding buttress. | |||||
| H.Luxford, T.Seddon Jun 83 | |||||
| Fun Time | 11 | 45m | |||
| First section OK. 1. 40m. Double crack on front of protruding buttress. | |||||
| H.Luxford, T.Seddon Jun 83 | |||||
