Kingsview Umina
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Crag faces south
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Sandstone
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Introduction
This is a pleasant South facing summer crag with a few moderately graded classic sporty routes in a unique setting amongst a She Oak forest.
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History
The first routes at this crag were developed in 1996 in a frenzy by Richard Jeffrey and Craig Galoway.
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Access
Turn right off Ocean Beach Road at Umina Mall into Lone Pine Avenue (at the chicane the street name changes to Kingsview Drive). About 300m from the chicane before the road veers right there is a gravel driveway on the left that marks the top of the crag and the obvious descent gully. Parking here is best kerbside rather than adding to the erosion of the gravelled area. All but one of the routes here are to the west of the descent gully.
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Right of Descent Gully
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First Full of Bucks
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21
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6m
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20m right of descent gully. Up bulging wall on left side of cave. 3 BRs.
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Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 2000
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The Bat Cave
The first large chossy cave to the left (west) of the descent gully.
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Pine O Clean
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15
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10m
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At centre of well rounded arete, 3m left of the Bat Cave. Straight up arete to top, passing good friend breaks at about 6m.
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Grant Severn, Phil Allen 1998
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Mum's New Home
The very large cave about 30m left of the descent gully.
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* * *
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Bike Boy
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19
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15m
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At day a mild mannered plumber but on weekends, donning his vented helmet and lycra pants 'Bike Boy'. Able to scare old women with a single yell, amaze onlookers with his one wheeled antics, lost more skin than a burn victim, got more stitches than a hot air balloon. But all that said, when the pressure is on, the coffee's brewing, the milk's all gone and the shop is more than a walk away, 'Bike Boy'.
On left side of cave. Classic. Up narrow arete to underside of roof, then break right around roof and up headwall. 5 BRs, 1RB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
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Mr Funny Hair Puts up a Climb
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11
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15m
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Dirty offwidth crack left of BB. Large Friends and slings for the chock stones.
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David Russell, Ross Linsley 1996
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* *
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Deliverance
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23
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15m
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Right side of steep wall left of Mum's New Home. Straight up with a thin start. 5 BRs and 1 RB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 2000
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* *
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Stainless Steel
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22
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15m
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2m left of D. Thin start up centre of wall, passing BR to break (large friends). Up then left to join UF. 3 BRs, 2 RBs and large friends.
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Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 2000
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* * *
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User Friendly
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20
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15m
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2m left of SS. Classic. Straight up left side of steep wall. 5 BRs and 1 RB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
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Big Black Spider
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18
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15m
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Around left of UF, at lower level. Up right side of wall. 5 BRs to BB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
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Big Black Spider, Left Hand Variant
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17
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12m
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Around left of UF, at upper level. 4 BRs to BB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
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* *
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Fax Me
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22
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9m
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I'm gonna make you squeal like a fax machine, boy! Good belayer handy! 4m left of BBS. 3 BR to BB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
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Little Block
Small block with two climbs about 30m left of Mum's New Home.
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Fist Full of Pine Needles
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20
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8m
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Below right side of block behind large she-oak. 3 BRs and 1 RB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
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* * *
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Finesse
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21
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12m
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Classic. Up left side of block then to top. 3 BRs to double BB.
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Paul Riviere 1996
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Post Office Corner
The high corner above Little Block, access via gully about 10m left.
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PO Box 123
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19
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7m
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Below right side of short, steep wall. Harder if you resist the urge to break onto the slab. 3 BRs and 1 RB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1996
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* * *
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Express Delivery
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23
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7m
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Left side of short, steep wall. 3 BRs and 1 RB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Peter Lynch 1996
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* *
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Fist Full of Lube
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19
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8m
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Star below obvious large block. Stick clip first RB, then up over block and up thin seam. 2 RBs, #0.5 friend to double BB.
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Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn 2002
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(Open Project)
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??
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8m
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Right crack through roof.
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The Fire That Burns
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20
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8m
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Left crack through roof.
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Ross Linsley 1997
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Crack House
Short featured wall about 40m left of Little Block, up on higher terrace.
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A
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15
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10m
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Up left side of wall, then left to far seam, then straight up. Friends.
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David Forbes, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 2000
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Berocca Man
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19
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10m
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Up corner and straight up seam. Friends and wires.
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Paul Riviere, Greg Riviere 2000
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* * *
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Flaco and the Sandman
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18
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15m
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Up charming centre crack with cross over, straight up over top block. Friends and wires.
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Ross Linsley, David Russell 1996
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Ripple
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23
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10m
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2m right of FATS. Bold thin seam. RPs, wires and #1.5 and #2.0 friends.
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Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 2000
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Davo's Crack
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20
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6m
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Wide fist crack at right end of wall.
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David Forbes, Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn, Gordon Porter 2000
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* * *
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Between the Sheets
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23
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15m
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Off ledge and left under edge of roof, then up far arete. Double ropes highly recommended. #1.0 friend, 5 RBs to double BB.
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Paul Riviere 2000
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Kumagutsa Area
The next large open book corner left of Crack House.
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* * *
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Kumagutsa
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21
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12m
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At right hand end of steep wall. 2 RBs, friends to double BB.
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Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 1999
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* *
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C'est Une Femme
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23
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10m
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At left hand end of steep wall. Often wet. 1 BR, 2 RBs to double BB.
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Paul Riviere 1999
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* * *
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Here Comes the Sun
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20
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15m
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Left side of slab. 2 BRs, friends for the top (optional). Double BB belay.
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Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn, Paul Riviere 1999
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Mu
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22
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15m
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3m left of HCTS. Up left side of arete. Friends, 2 RBs to double BB as for HCTS.
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Paul Riviere 2000
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* * *
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For Pete's Sake
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20
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12m
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4m left of M. Up centre of wall, passing 1 BR, 1 RB, #1.5 and #2.0 friends. The use of a screw gate in lieu of quickdraw on the first runner might help save the ankles.
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Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn 1999
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