Forbidden sport climbing


A great, harder crag in a lovely bushland setting. However, climbing has been banned here by the NPWS for a while now, and its proximity to the Kalkari NPWS information centre ensures you will get noticed, and possible fined or have gear confiscated. I've included this crag in the guide as an example of when access is lost if good relationships with land managers are not developed and maintained.


Park at the Kalkari information centre and walk south for about 200m. The crag degenerates towards its left hand end. Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.

Gothic Horror 20 12m
Start: In a small corner below the right hand edge of a big cave (about 12m left of a prominent, grotty corner crack). Up the corner (BR) and over roof to cave (BR). Up the right hand edge of the cave and the slab above (BR).
* * Watergate 23 12m
Start: 3m right of GH, below a vague orange corner. Up the corner for 2m then left to a ledge (BRs). Up steep wall, over roof and up delicate groove (3 BRs).
* * White House 23 12m
Start: As for W. Up W for 2m then right (BR) and up over roof. Up wall to small cave (BRs), then either finish up W or traverse right to the chain on RFB.
* * Rapid Fat Boys 25 10m
Start: 3m right of WH. Up flake (BRs) to roof (BR). Continue up wall (2 FHs) to cave and chain lower off.
* The American Way 21 12m
Start: 4m right of RFB (2m left of the grotty corner). Blast straight up the pumpy wall, passing 7 BRs and a FH.

Just right of tAW is a grotty corner crack and a crappy slab.

Traction in Action 24 9m
Start: Marked "M". Up for 2m, then step left and up (3 BRs) to belay (tree).
* * Mesopotamia 21 10m
Start: As for TiA. Straight up (BR) then up and right to little cave (BR). Continue up and right (BRs) then back left to belay (tree).
* * Greg Moore's Dog 22 12m
Start: 2m right of M. Up the steep sustained corner.
* Greg Moore's Dog Direct Start 21 4m
Start: 2m right of GMD. Up the tenuous corner (BR).
* * * Rushmore 26 15m
Start: 2m right of GMDDS, below steep little wall. Steep, pumpy and sustained. Stick clip first BR, the head up and right through roof, left over bulge and up to top. 7 BRs in total (2nd is dodgy).
* UK Boltfest 24M1 25m
Start: 6m right of R. Batman to first FH, then up short corner. Move left and over a roof to a stance, then continue up and right across wall. 9 BRs in total.
* * * Led Zep 78 26 20m
Start: 4m right of UKB. Excellent climbing up the increasingly steep wall (8 BRs).
Snatch of Glory 22 17m
Start: 5m right of LZ78. Follow the line of BRs up a vague weakness.

A block leans against the cliff just here.

Something Steep 19 10m
Start: 4m right of the block (7m right of SoG). A vegetated start leads to excellent steep jamming up the corner crack.