Joll's Bridge
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10 minutes
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Crag faces west
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Introduction
One of the most extensive crags in the Sydney region. Faces west overlooking the Hawkesbury estuary. Great in the cooler months. Developed back in the dark ages, but recently many quality routes at the southern end have been re-bolted. Rock quality varies so take care. Not kid-friendly.
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History
Development commenced here in October 1992 when climbers from Gosford and Sydney caught each other sniffing about with the prospect of bagging some prime lines. This encounter gave rise to the naming of one of the many routes "Sniffing Dogs". 10 years later there are over 130 climbs to flap about on, with everything from traditional numbers with mixed natural protection to sport routes.
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Access
Drive north on the Sydney to Newcastle expressway, cross the Hawkesbury River bridge and continue for 2km to Joll's Bridge. About 200m further north there is an emergency bay which provides access to a relatively large parking area (~6 cars if you are happy to park others in). The cliff is less than 20m from here and access gullies are located about 200m north or south. Locals have been parking here since 2009 without incident but if you are concerned with security or the possibility of fines you can still park on the old Pacific Highway 500m south of the bridge and bush bash up and under the bridge, then traverse carefully below the freeway to Absolute Honey wall.
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Southern Descent Access
Access to the southern routes (south of Hang Ten) is best done by the squeeze down at the south end of the cliff: Follow obvious path south from car park along fence line. Just south of the gully which accesses the top of HGSA etc, take the obvious gully [~ 200m south of car park]. Veer left and squeeze down at end of big ledge (~ 2.5m) on the glued in rungs. Pass bags up/down. Follow path down and north 20m to Absolute Honey.
Routes are described right to left, facing the cliff.
Absolute Honey Wall
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*
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Absolute Honey
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20
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13m
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20m left of descent squeeze. A delicate grunt up a slightly overhanging wall. Thin flake to roof, hang off edge of cave now up wall passing 4 RBs to Lower Offs. Rebolted 2009.
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Andrew Powell, Linda Leman 1993-03-01
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* *
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Rapunzel Let Your Hair Down
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22
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15m
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Direct to first bolt shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared lower offs with SD. Rebolted 2011.
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Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 1993-02
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* *
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Sniffing Dogs
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20
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15m
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3.5m left of RLYHD. Fun work out with fingery crux. Up easy ground to cave, now swing on up overhanging blocks and up wall Lower Offs shared with RLYHD passing 5 RBs. Rebolted 2010.
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Ross Linsley, Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 1993-06-14
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*
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Wilde Thing
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23
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15m
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Out flake in chossy roof then up past a series of overlaps past BR and a #0.5 friend to a tree belay on top.
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John Wilde 1993-01
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King Kong
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16
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15m
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2m left of WT. Pump up those beginners. Reach your way up through blocks, round top and up, passing small tree to top.
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Nat Nichols, Susie 1993-02
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*
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Fully Loaded Man
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21
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19m
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Start 1.5m L of KK at small crack. Up past 3 BRs and cam placements to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB at about grade 19)
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Dale Tweedie, Daniel Webster, Sept, 2009
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* *
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High Goose Stepping Action
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21
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18m
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3m left of KK. Yet another gem that doesn't let up till you haul through the final bulge. Boulder up past friend to BR, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this (2 BRs) to overhang and #2 friend placement. Now get out there and finish that "gorr dam job" passing BR/FH. DBB added - bring bolt plates and cams.
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Phill Stallard, Andrew Powell 1993-07-24
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*
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Natie Head
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17
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8m
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3m left of HGSA. Slink your way up nose/flake passing two BRs to tree and DRB loweroffs. Rebolted 2009. Optional cam down low.
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Nat Nichols 1993-02
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* *
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Bad Luck Silverback
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19
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12m
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2m left of NH. A snacky little pump that winds its way up some beautiful orange rock. Out past #3.5 friend placement then to BR, back right above overlap #0.75 and #2 friend. Across to flake, up this to horizontal small friend placements, then to top via small flake.
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1993-02-14
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* *
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Channel Bill Cuckoo
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24
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12m
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About 2m left of BLS. Straight up the middle of the wall past 4 RBs to Lower Offs on boulder left of large tree and ledge. Be gentle with the small pedestal hold just above the last RB. Pumpy! Rebolted 2011.
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Paul Riviere 1994-01
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Chocolate Coated Parents
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16
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12m
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4m left of CBC. Tricky open book corner with some nice bridging. This climb holds pride of place in being the first line to fall in this guide. Large friends and hexes for protection.
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Phill Stallard, Andrew Powell 1992-11-21
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*
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French and Blonde
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24
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15m
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Start 1m left of CCP. Move up the flake past 2 BRs and tackle an amusing crux. At the big horizontal break trend left up easier ground to the top past 2 more RBs. Lower offs shared with BBB. Rebolted 2011.
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Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 1993-05
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* *
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Big Black Box
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23
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15m
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Just left of FaB, below stunning black wall. Balance up wall passing 3 RBs. At third RB dip right and up to horizontal, easing ground passing 2 more bolts to lower offs. Rebolted 2011.
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 1993-01-17
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*
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The Block That Was
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22
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15m
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Down and left of boulder. Great positions up inviting crack. Follow RB's up to ledge then swing out left to base of crack. Straight up crack to lower offs passing 5 RBs in total. Top moves can be a little dirty. Don't jerk around with the final blocks or you might get a nasty surprise! Previously graded 19! Rebolted 2011.
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Andrew Powell, Tim (Rainman) Maroney 1993-02-21
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* *
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Sand Man
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23
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25m
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Up yellow wall to join TBTW. 6 RBs. Rebolted 2011.
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John Wilde, Daniel Wilde 1994-09-25
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At this point you can either stay high under the roof to access SYM etc or you can go low to drop down and around to the base of EMO and all climbs north.
Succulent Young Men Wall
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* *
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Succulent Young Men
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23
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18m
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About 10m left of S. Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for! Up corner to ledge passing 3 RBs. Don't just stand there! Clip RB and off out right, passing 3 RB's. "So simple", now push it straight up from here passing 2 more RB's to lower offs in alcove (hard to see from ground). Long draws help reduce the drag. Rebolted 2011.
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Andrew Powell
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* *
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Go North Young Thang
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21
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20m
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Direct variant to SYM. Up SYM till you hit the 4th RB, from here head north young thang, passing RBs through roof to loweroffs on right. Classic.
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard
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Texas
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19
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20m
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Start as for SYM, but head left past rusting BRs and up through hanging grey block. Wires and #3 friend protect corner and final moves off right to finish. Needs rebolting.
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Phill Stallard, Mickie, Andrew Powell 1993-01-17
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I'll Ask Her
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16
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20m
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0.5m left of T. A nice bit of air on the traverse. Slab your way up shallow corner passing BR and on to second BR of T, make another move then swing left to ledge to finish up corner behind.
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Nat Nichols, Susie 1993-03
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I Wanna Be The Table
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18
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12m
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3m left of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Slip on up to #4 friend placement then levitate up thin slab, BR, to ledge and straight up to top (watch your pro).
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Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker, Andrew Powell 1993-05-29
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Humping The Table
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17
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12m
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1m left of IWBTT. Nice slabby arete. Move up through some balance moves (2 BRs) into blank corner to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 and #0.5 friends.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1993-05-29
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Three Stooges Wall
Next 3 climbs are located on the small upper cliff-line, on a big platform up left of Texas. Access is easiest from the top. Locate the cave/overhang 50m south of the end of the carpark. Walk around to the left (facing out from the cliff) until you find short overhang and wall. If you are already at the bottom, climb IAH and climbs are 5m to the left starting with "Moe".
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Moe
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21
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6m
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At right hand end of wall. One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off concrete bollard.
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Paul Riviere 1993-02
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*
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Curly
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21
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8m
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2m left of M, at weakness. One BR and a #3 friend in horizontal break at 6m.
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Paul Riviere 1993-02
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* *
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Larry
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25
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7m
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Obvious overhanging corner. Beautiful rock. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 friend will soothe the nerves.
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Paul Riviere 1993-02
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Two Tribes Wall
Continuing on past Humping The Table...
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Oral Stretch Marks
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20
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15m
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10m left of HTT, at left end of overhang. Locate the double bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse left past 2 BRs then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the top. 3 BRs. #2.5 friend and wires.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1994-01-03
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*
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Two Tribes
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20
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15m
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10m left of large overhang at short corner. Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 and #3 friends. Out and up right to BR via ramp then straight to finish on left side of block (small friend near top).
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Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 1993-01-10
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* *
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Thin Heat
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21
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18m
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Start as for TT. Fine face work on ironstone blades. Up corner through small overlap then slightly left to top passing 2 BRs and #2 friend.
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1993-02-14
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Plato Makes My Head Hurt
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17
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18m
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Start as for TT. Blast up corner to top. Belay off small friends.
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Phil Stallard, Micky, Carl 1993-01-03
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*
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Frogs Outa Water
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22
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10m
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On ledge 1m left of corner crack. Short wall with 3 BR. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Friends handy above top BR. Belay with friends in the cave.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1993-02
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*
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River Rat
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16
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12m
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1.5m left of FOW at diagonal seam/weakness. Trend L up the cracks to finish at L end of cave.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1993-02
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Oysterland
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Oysterland
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21
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15m
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1m left of RR. Up, staying just right of arete, then the wall/slab on left side of cave to another BR and finish on top. 2 BRs and friends.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1993-01
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*
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Eat More Oysters
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22
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25m
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5m left of corner up the slab. The short open book corner with a U bolt at 3m.
1. 15m (17) Up the short crack and onto slab protected by friends. Belay at the tree below arete.
2. 10m (22) Clip the BR on Oysterland then the U bolt on arete. Onto face with friends to protect.
[Rebolted as 1 pitch: X RB + DBB on top of cliff. Take long sling to lower off and pick it up on the way out]
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Paul Riviere, Saxon Johns 1995-01-01
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The Big Lick
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21
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25m
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The corner/arete 3m left of oysterland.
1. 15m Two BRs up a left facing corner lead the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk left. Easily up left side of the short orange wall (BR), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay.
2. 10m (Aid if wet) onto white block (good friend placements just above), and up into the corner until you are forced right onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 BRs and a rack of friends.
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Paul Riviere, Darren Grey, Matthew Arnott 1994-04-29
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Under My Tongue
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22
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10m
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Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From below move right under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Friends protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1995-01-14
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Pretzel Logic Wall
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* *
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Pretzel Logic
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25
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10m
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4m left of TBL, directly below large angophora. The first of two fine, short cracks which finish in the alcove below the cave. Don't be put off by the seepage on the lower section of these two climbs - they are definitely worth the effort. 3 RBs to rap anchor in alcove.
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Paul Riviere, Simon Atkins 1994-06-24
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* *
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Wet When Slippery
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25
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10m
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3m left of PL. Another gem! One BR and two FHs to rap anchor in alcove.
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Paul Riviere 1995-02-26
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The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of TBL and then walk left under the large orange overhang.
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* * *
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Monkey In The Soul
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23
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15m
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Start at base of overhanging nose of orange rock. Up the short crack (#0.75 friend keeps the rope out of your way), clip the first RB then through the overhang. The next two chain runners are attempts to remedy two problematic clips. After chains traverse right along lip passing 3 more RBs and finish just below the manky roof at rap station.
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Paul Riviere 1994-12-11
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* * *
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Heart of Stone
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27
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15m
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8m left of MitS at left end of cave (2 BBs). Move right across the overlaps up into the corner then further right across the yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 FH and 6 RBs.
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Paul Riviere, David Russell 1994-11-20
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Honey I'm Late Wall
Back down at ground level, continue along until you can spot the initials of HIL.
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* * *
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Vulgar Direct
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21
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32m
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Approx 40m left of TT. Straight up to top, passing 13 RBs to lower offs (60m Rope only just gets you to the ground on stretch). Long draws down low help drag. Rebolted 2011.
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Mike Law 1993-07
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*
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Honey I'm Late
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19
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40m
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Still packs plenty of drama despite the rebolting. Take gear to supplement the bolts if you scare easily. Use slings to avoid rope drag.
1. 10m (15) Start at initials. Up short crack to ledge, traverse left to belay at RB and old BR.
2. 20m (19) Up left to edge of cave with care, past RBs, then up and right into corner and up. Traverse above the void (ignore first line of RBs going directly up) and follow right line of RBs up wall. Belay at ledge on right at tree.
3. 10m (14) Up black fin trending left to top. DRB belay/rap above chimney.
A 60m rope apparently just reaches the ground, tie knots in the end and take care.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1993-12-26
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*
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Honey I'm Direct
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21
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35m
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Start as for HIL. Start across traverse then up and out into hanging crack/flake, up this to top passing some gear placements and RBs. Care needed with block just before top. Best done as a single pitch with double ropes to reduced drag (60m Rope only just gets you to the ground on stretch).
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Andrew Powell John Cadogan 1994-07-02
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* * *
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B Jam
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22
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40m
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About 3m left of HIL. Quality all the way on superb rock.
1. 30m (22) Slip up little slab #3.5 friend and BR to horizontal then up over small roof (good pro) to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeeha! Reach out blindly to clip FH, now swing on out and up trending right (#4 and #0.5 friend) to easy but airy ground (wires and #3 friend) to belay off tree in cave.
2. 10m Short exit up final moves of NBH (BR).
[Rebolt: In Progress - 2nd attempt ended with 1 melted battery, the other not operating and a hamstring tear - it might be a while before this gets completed... The climb can be done as is but it is recommended to use some gear on the easy section between the DBB and the lip of the roof. There is also a ~ 8m run out after the 2nd bolt past the lip over easy ground which can be slight shortened by using a small cam in the big pocket. Also the new bolts trend left at the lip of the roof - could be harder than 22]
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Andrew Poweil, Paul Riviere 1993-03-21
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* *
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Wheelie Big Fish
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19
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35m
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2m left of BJ.
1. (19) Reachy boulder moves to start and up wall passing BR to tree belay on second ledge next to orange wall.
2. (19) Up corner behind tree to hairy, desperate traverse off right to finish.
[Rebolted (do lower part of BJ and traverse left at roof): X RB + Rap Anchors (extend with long sling to lower off - 60m Rope! or use DBB below roof)]
Watch for 2 snakes living on this climb - beware the yellow arrows!
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Phil Stallard, Micky 1993-02
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Whairy Fin Fish
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19
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9m
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A gripping little variant finish to 2nd pitch of WBF. Slip on up orange wall passing BR and #00, #1, #3 and #0.5 friends to roofs. Clip BR on lip and mantle up, out and over like a tuna.
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Andrew Powell, Milton Sams 1993-05-02
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*
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No Boots and Panties
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19
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35m
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Whole lotta air out there. Up WBF for 10m passing BR to first ledge and small tree. Now out onto right wall just inside arete (wires and friends) and up to final BR on airy bulge.
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney, Phil Stallard 1993-03-31
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Woodface
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* * *
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Woodface
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20
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40m
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About 4m left of WBF. Beautiful open face climbing.
1. Bumble up 4m to start under a FH. Now up flake (BR) then trend out left passing #2 friend to BR and #3 friend. Just above this traverse right to blunt arete (#1 friend). Cruise on up trending left passing last BR to top. Chain belay.
2. Shoot up rounded arete with 2 BRs and small friends.
[Rebolted: X RB - NO Lower Offs]
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1993-12-26
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* * *
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Woodface Direct
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20
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40m
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Instead of trending left after the flake croooooze straight up the arete to join the bolt on the original route. Ross had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming that it was Woodface's natural line. 2 empty bolt holes attested to Andrew's plan to straighten out his original wandering line. He returned next day, unaware of Ross's exploits, to place the two bolts.
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Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 1994-10-30
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* * *
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Hang Ten
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25/26
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35m
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2m left of W, on a ledge 2m above the ground.
1. 28m (25/26) Follow the line of fixed hangers up the steep wall (carry a bolt bracket for carrot at midheight). Chain belay on large ledge just below the roof.
2. 7m (13) The flake which runs left to right along the lip of the roof and finishes up a short open book corner.
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Paul Riviere 1994-10-16
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Tum Fun
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21
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30m
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3m left of HT, on vegetated ledge. Up.
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard
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* *
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Son of a Gun
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26
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20m
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30m left of HT at the large, hollow spear of rock. Follow the line of U bolts through the manky section, then trend steeply left, past short yellow arete. Move back right to small ledge and finish up pocketed headwall. The rock improves dramatically after the first 3m. 12 U bolts in total.
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Paul Riviere 1994-05-29
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* * *
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Lethal Weapon
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24
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20m
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Popular steep sportclimb with a memorable mantle. Start as for SoaG. Sandy start up shield to rooflet, Awkward mantle at 4th U bolt. Finish up delightful white polished bulge. 12 U bolts in total.
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Paul Riviere 1995-01-01
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The Damp Wagon
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16
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12m
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10m left of SoaG. Up blunt arete (small friends) to ledge, then up corner to exit right. Flaky finish at top.
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 1993-05-08
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*
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Pigmy Sex Low Down
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17
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10m
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Start as for TDW. Short but very sweet. Head left (small friends and wires) to small cave. Swing up around left end of cave to finish.
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 1993-07-24
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*
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Squeezin' Out Sparks
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20
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13m
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4m left of PSLD. A very pleasant outing. A couple of moves up corner (#1.5 friend, wire) then right passing BR to crack (#2, #3.5 friends). Continue right (#1 friend).
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 1993-07-18
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Pig in a Wig
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17
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13m
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As for SOS. Corner to block on right.
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Carl Power, Ivan Baker 1993
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Gold Possum Wall
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Be Still My Beating Possum
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18
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18m
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6m left of PiaW. Great line pushing through the red centre. Be careful with small furry friends. Start up slab to ledge, then up orange wall (friends, wires) to finish on small ledge. Exit carefully right.
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Phill Stallard, Philippe, Ivan Baker 1993-07-12
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* *
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Ringtail
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24
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18m
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Left of BSmBP. Up orange wall past BRs to small alcove. Crux is headwall above. Rap anchor. 2BRs and 3FHs in total.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1993-11-04
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* *
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666 The Beast
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19
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15m
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At corner below R. It'll scare you but worth the adventure. Up the superb flake 5m left of R (friend, wires). Finishes atop the precarious block at belay station.
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Ross Linsley, Bruce Wells, Paul Riviere 1993-11-16
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* *
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668 Neighbour Of The Beast
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19
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15m
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Up 666TB for 3m then move left into the seam. Follow this (full set of friends and #4 WC rock) to belay as for 666TB.
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Ross Linsley, Nigel Kennedy, Paul Riviere 1994-05-21
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*
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Corrosion Castle
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19
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30m
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Start left of 666NOTB at thin crack. Steep, airy and scary, violent crumble for the masses. Rusty carrots are in a shocking state - back them up with medium to large cams. This was once led as two pitches, but since then the belay tree died and was then cutdown. Up thin crack (2 BRs) to large ledge. Boldly rightwards and up overhung chossy arete and wall above (9 BRs). Belay off tree well back.
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Mike Law, Paul Riviere 1993-07
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Frontline
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22
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10m
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3m left of CC. A short wall with an undercut start. One BR, a U bolt and a #1.5 friend to a tree belay.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1994-10-19
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Cornered
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18
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10m
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2m left of F. Up short corner, capped by roof (1 BR, 1 U bolt and a #2.5 friend). Awkward belay from the tree.
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Paul Riviera, Ross Linsley 1994-10-19
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*
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Black Diamond
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25
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10m
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Start below buckety black wall left of C. 3 RBs and rap anchor (3rd RB hard to clip).
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Paul Riviere 1994-11-05
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*
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Biceps Femoris
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21
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6m
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2m left of BD. Up past 3 RBs to finish up smooth slab. Double BB belay.
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Paul Riviere 1994-03-05
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*
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Biceps Brachii
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21
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8m
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1.5m left of BF. Up the little corner then as for BB.
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Paul Riviere 1993-01-29
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The following climbs start 10m off the ground on a large ledge system at the base of the upper wall.
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O
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14
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25m
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Start: From big ledge, scramble up gully and right onto ledge below steep wall.
1. 19m (14) Straight up wall to below roof then escape left. Up and around right to belay on big ledge.
2. 6m Up small corner to top.
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Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker, Kathy Merz 1993-06
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The Sports Wall
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Trotsky's Nipples
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18
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12m
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Up and left of O, at far right hand end of Sports Wall (at corner with black right hand wall). Up black wall then up arete above (friends).
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Phil Stallard, Andrew Powell 1993-10
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Triangle
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11
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10m
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Up as for TN, then move left into corner at top.
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Phil Stallard. Ivan Baker 1993-06
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*
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Feelin Kinda Sporty
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22
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15m
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3m left of T. What a grunt of a finish! Head up and left to first BR, now pull hard on jugs to good friend placement in horizontal. Mantel onto small ledge above, get a wire in flake under roof before clipping first of the U-bolts. Now the fun starts, finish off head wall passing another U-bolt and #3 friend (feelin' kinda rooted!).
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Andrew Powell
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* *
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Mega Luv Jugs
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18
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15m
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As for FKS. From one extreme to another. Grope your way up jug-fest passing BR (shared with FKS) and friends to right side of jutting block on ledge (BR just above). Uneasy moves up on to slab using block. Exit left up slab #1, #0.75 friends.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1993-09-12
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*
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Slippery Air
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20
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10m
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2m left of MLJ. A short pump's a good pump. Up gently overhung wall passing 2 BRs. After second, trend right (#1, #3 and #1 friends) to top.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1993-09-12
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Marxist Breakfast
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17
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10m
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1m left of SA. Climbs the right hand side of the large cave. Straight up, passing 1 BR and #2, #3 friends to ledge.
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Phil Stallard, Andrew Powell 1993-08-30
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* * *
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One Sick Puppy
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20/21
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12m
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10m left of MB. It'll hump and pump and blow your arms away. Clip first BR then swing out and up on user friendly holds passing 3 more BRs to rap anchor.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1993-09-26
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* *
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Read My Lips
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24
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10m
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2m left of OSP at unusual extrusion in back of cave. Set a belay with a #3 friend, then move up and right to RB. Continue around roof to two more RBs, finishing at a small broken angophora. Rap anchor as for OSP.
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Paul Riviere 1994-09-11
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*
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Shining Path
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25
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15m
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At 1st orange stain on wall left of cave. One BR and 2 RBs plus rack of friends for upper section. Tree belay.
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Paul Riviere 1995-02-26
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* * *
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Golden Shower
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25
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15m
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Left hand vertical orange streak. Great moves down low then eases after 2nd RB. 3rd RB and friend to top.
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Paul Riviere 1993-06
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* *
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Stairway To Heaven
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21
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20m
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Up diagonal ramp left of GS past BR to some friend placements. Traverse right 2m to the short corner. BR above this. Proceed up (friends) to tree belay.
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Paul Riviere 1993-04
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* *
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River's Edge
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24
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15m
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5m left of STH. Problematic start. Thin moves past ironstone flakes on a steep face passing fixed hanger, friend break. Now run it out moving L and up to next horizontal friends to protect. Tree belay.
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Paul Riviere 1993-03
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* *
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Finger Candy
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22
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15m
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20m left of RE. Taste the pump! Straight up wall just beside cave, passing 5 BRs plus #2.5, #1, #3.5 and #1 friends. Tree belay. Enjoy!
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Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 1994-08-07
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Ten Pin Gully
To get to this gully from the top, take the well worn track heading north from the back of the car park, after about 5 minutes walk (200m) the path turns almost 180° and drops into Ten Pin Gully which is quite steep.
About 2/3rds the way down the path cross a shallow cave. Break south for climbs south (i.e. The Sports Wall) or continue further down the rock slope for climbs north.
To locate the following climbs walk north along the base of the cliff.
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Short Black
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21
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10m
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At the bottom of the first drop of Ten Pin Gully. A crimp fest requiring care when clipping the second piece of gear (the ground could come up and bite you!). 1 BR and #3, #3.5 friends, then run it out to the top.
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Square
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13
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15m
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At obvious wide crack splitting the wall before Crack 'n' Up Wall. As the name Implies, except maybe sharper. Straight up crack and veer L and up wall to top.
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Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker, Kathy 1993-06
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Huge Carpet Sale
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19
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15m
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3m left of S. A plus for the Box, steep slab work. Over little bulge and up fine edged section passing 2 BRs. Trend slightly right through horizontals, friends to small vertical crack and on to top. Tree belay.
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Phill Stallard, Philippe, Andrew Powell 1994-03-27
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*
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Struggle Rug
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19
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13m
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2m left of HCS. Steeper, sharper neighbour. Up edges passing 2 BRs and on, keeping to the right of jutting block on the way to top. #4, #3.5 and #0.5 friends handy. Belay as for HCS.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 1994-03-27
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Not A Pretty Face
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19
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10m
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Left arete of the buttress. 2 BRs and a #0.5 friend. Take a few smaller friends for the belay.
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Paul Riviere, Andrew Powell 1994-06-19
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Crack 'n' Up Wall
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* * *
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The Hawkesbury Connection
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25
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12m
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2m left of the chimney. Sequential moves on a vertical wall. Up to flake at 5m. Then slap to good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave (bolt belay). 4 FHs and #0.5 friend. Somewhat harder since a cruxy undercling at 3m snapped.
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Paul Riviere 1993-04
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The Hawkesbury Desideratum
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25
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16m
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From the 4th FH on THC, move leftwards past 2 more FHs to double U bolt belay.
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Paul Riviere 1994-08-07
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* * *
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Crack 'n' Up
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22
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30m
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5m left of THC at attractive crack. Up crack and traverse left at top onto ledge. Continue up a short crack system before moving back right on to the face passing 2 BR. Tree belay. 3 BRs, friends and wires.
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Paul Riviere, John Wilde 1993-04
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*
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Teddy
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19
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25m
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7m left of CnU, at crack behind 2 black boys. Climb the crack up to and move right to climb another short crack. Continue straight up passing a BR to a large ledge. Climb the corner crack and move right onto the face with a BR to protect. Tree belay 3 BRs, friends and wires.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1993-08
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I'd Rather Be Fishing
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19
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30m
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5m left of T at corner. Up right facing corner past 2 BRs and a #3 friend to alcove. Pull up through centre of roof onto another ledge next to small but solid angophora tree (sling). Straight up wall past another 3 BRs and friends.
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Paul Riviere, Bruce Wells, Ross Linsley 1993-11-16
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*
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Fish Head Soup
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17
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25m
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3m left of IRbF at crack. Up crack to alcove at 4m. Continue straight up past 3 BRs onto a big ledge and another BR. Move up into short corner then slightly right to finish in small cave. Tree belay. 4 BRs, friends and wires.
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Paul Riviere, Jeff Conley 1994-03-05
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*
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Smells of Excess
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22
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25m
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0.5m left of FHS. Just thin for starters. Crimp your way up left to BR, then crooze up to ledge taking middle crack with mixed gear and 2 more BRs. Finish up final wall of AF to tree belay.
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Andrew Powell, Ashley Mackevicius 1997-06-09
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*
|
Absolutely Fab
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22
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25m
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Thin wall left of SoE. Hard start followed by some dicey holds (BR) above the horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear. Tree belay.
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Ross Linsley 1994-08-07
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* *
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Hooked on Rock
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19
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20m
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The shallow corner left of AF to a BR, then straight up the wall/slab passing 2 FHs. Chain belay.
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Paul Riviere. Ross Linsley 1993-11-27
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* *
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Strung up
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21
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20m
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4m left of HOR. Up the vertical crack for 10m, then move up right to a ledge and pad it up (BR). Rack of friends and nuts. Shares chain belay with HoR.
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Paul Riviere. Ross Linsley 1993-11-27
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Chips And Chicken Salt
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22
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15m
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The left most climb on Crack 'n' Up Wall. 6 U bolts plus a few medium friends will bring you safely to a rap anchor.
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Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1995-06-17
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Billy's Buttress
The next climbs are located down at the left hand end of Crack 'n' Up wall. Bumble up to recessed area below striking L facing orange corner.
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*
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Fffffit
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20
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21m
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The arete. Mixed gear with 2 BRs at the top.
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Phil Stallard, Andrew Powell 1993-08-08
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*
|
Mr. Whip Me
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21
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23m
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The corner. Not all things get hard, but some do! Throw a large nut into the crack on the wall and away you go! Blast up the middle of the wall (#3 friend) to BR, then to crack (#4 friend). Hang out to the right and grab the arete and up this (2 BRs) to a small ledge. Clip one last BR and finish.
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Andrew Powell, Philippe, Phil Stallard 1993-08-22
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* *
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Phvvvit
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17
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23m
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Start as for MWM. Bill and Ben had to do a lot of bucket and spade work to unearth this class line. Straight up corner to small roof then traverse out right with air and care of hollow sounding flake, and up to a small stance. Now up and out left to top through some loose country.
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Phil Stallard , Andrew Powell 1993-08-01
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* * *
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La La Land
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20
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23m
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5m left of P. Just bloody great. Slink up the black wall (runout) till you hit the orange (microcam essential). Traverse right a metre or so (hard) and up to small roof (great friends and wires on this section). Grab a magic under cling, clip the FH and head up final wall passing #4 friend, BR and #2 friend to top.
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Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard, Paul Riviere 1993-08-14
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*
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Up The End
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22
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10m
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25m left of LLL, up and over the rise. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (NOT!), passing 2 BRs to horizontal break (#3 friend). Now up to hole and over bulge (BR) on high crimps.
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Andrew Powell. Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1994-10-09
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Wall of Thighs
An excellent little wall. From the car park, follow the fence line atop the cliff north for approximately 250m, then cross the fence and move towards the cliff. The Wall of Thighs is an upper tier cliff. From the bottom, these ten climbs are located about 50m up the slope behind Phvvvit (the orange corner on Billy's Buttress).
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* *
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Sun King Baby
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22
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15m
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Right most line on the wall. Not a straight forward little grunt. After first BR traverse right and up to big hole, then back L to second BR, now fire straight up from here passing two more BRs.
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Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 1995-02-12
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*
|
Sister Moon
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25
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15m
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Follow the streak between SKB and PG past 5 U bolts.
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Paul Riviere
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Piggy Grunter
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18
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12m
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4m left of SKB. Chalk up the trotters and oink. A #11 hex comes in handy and it can be climbed without getting inside.
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Andrew Powell 1994
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Heaven and Hell
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22
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15m
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2m left of PG. Up the middle of the wall past some poor rock at half height. Pad up a slab to finish at rap anchor. 7 U bolts.
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Paul Riviere 1995-11-12
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The Seventh Wave
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25
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15m
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4m left of HAH. Up corner for 3m then move right across the pockets onto the face and up past 5 U bolts. Rap anchor as for HAH.
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Paul Riviere
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|
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Benny Hill's Buttocks
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17
|
15m
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|
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Start as for TSW. Straight up corner / crack trending off to the right and up final head wall for a last bit of slap and tickle!
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Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker 1994-02-06
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The Link Experience
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25
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15m
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5m left of BHB. Up wall to the overhanging crack to finish. 7 U bolts to rap anchor.
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Paul Riviere 1995-07-13
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|
|
Burning Sensation
|
20
|
11m
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|
You should always leave a little something for the end. Kick off as for TLE, puff up over block and move left to crack (#1.5 friend). One move up (#3.5 friend) then slip back to the left (BR). Straight up from this, passing #0.75 friend and BR to top out on right side of tree on edge.
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Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 1994-02-06
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Hey, Where's That Cream?
|
19
|
11m
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|
Something smooth close at hand. Up BS till you hit the first BR, now slip out to your left across a little slab (BR) and up corner (#0.5 friend).
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Andrew Powell 1994-07-08
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Short Arrs
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17
|
6m
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10m left of BS at corner. Damn shame it's not a lot longer. Up the corner.
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Andrew Powell, John Cadogan 1994-03-07
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The Hall of Horrors
Walk 150m left along the ledge system running from the left end of the Wall Of Thighs to get to this area. The Hall of Horrors is a 10m high, overhanging sport area with potential for some hard shorties.
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Scarface
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27
|
10m
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|
Start at the diagonal overhanging rise. Traverse in from right to left then straight up to the undercling and anchor.
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Paul Riviere
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(Project)
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24
|
6m
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Ramp / arete rising up to the right. 5 U bolts (may just be holes).
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Projectile Fear
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21
|
6m
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|
Up the bulging prow following the RBs. Lower off final RB at roof.
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Paul Riviere, Andrew Powell 1995-06-04
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The Basement Wall
This slabby, compact, 20m high wall is located directly below the Hall of Horrors. It is also located on the same level as the Crack 'n' Up wall and can be reached from there by walking left for about 140m. All of the climbs here start off a ledge about 5m above off the main level. Gain this ledge at its southern end via a step-up under a small cave.
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Full Body Fluff
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16
|
12m
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|
Above the step-up. Nice warm up to Basement Wall. Climb steepening slab on edge of cave to small corner, clip BR and finish it off.
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1995-08-13
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|
* *
|
D9 Lust
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21
|
20m
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10m left of FBF. A little grubby in the middle, but still worth the effort. Up 4m to #1 friend. Over small overlap (#4 friend) then on to a perfect #3.5 friend hole. Continue up and right to the base of vertical crack (#0.75 friend) and up this (wires). Move left 1m to swing out to clip BR and finish up thin slab moves. Belay/rap anchor at stance.
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Andrew Powell John Codogen 1995-11-19
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|
* * *
|
Hot Black Light
|
19
|
22m
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4m left of D9L. Great moves on great rock. Thin climbing for 4m to first pro (#2 friend). Onward passing small pro (#0.5, #0.75 friends) just under lip of small black wall. Up this (2 BRs) and continue up small flake (small wires) to horizontal (#3 friend) and swing up right to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.
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Andrew Powell, John Cadogen 1995-11-09
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*
|
Horny Bugger
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20
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22m
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5m left of HBL next to grass tree. Kick in the end of this one. Up wall with pockets (range of friends) to horn (sling this). On to small ledge (#0.75 friend), now some fingery moves up clean orange rock passing 2 BRs to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1995-08-13
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*
|
Cool Street
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21
|
20m
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10m up and left of HB. Full rack of friends plus 2 U bolts will get you to the top this wee pump. Belay off the angophora tree with its root curling over the cliff edge.
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Paul Riviere, Andrew Powell 1995-07-28
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Uncle Clouse
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19
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17m
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12m left of CS. A nice bouldery pocketed start. Up 4m to first pro (#1, #2 friends). Grunt through bulge then up easier wall with wide range of friends and a medium hex. Good climbing finishes at tree (clean rap from here).
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Andrew Powell
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Bondi
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15
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17m
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8m left of UC at broken orange wall beneath cave. More sand than Bondi (at least at the start). Up edge to horizontal edge, move right to clean rock and mantel. Good rock begins. Up corner and flake system behind tree to top. Belay off tree located up the hill a bit.
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Tim Maroney. Andrew Powell 1997-09-01
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*
|
The Box Under The Stairs
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22
|
15m
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4m left of B. Pump start - slab finish. Up to first BR, then snap for the next couple of jugs and bomb proof #3 or #2.5 friend placement. On to second BR on lip then up slab (3rd and final BR) to belay tree atop block.
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Andrew Powell
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*
|
Holding Down Two Lives
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20
|
23m
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|
8m left of tBUtS. The bottom and the very top gives this one its grade. Up flake veering right slightly to get on top of big block (good #0.75 friend in horizontal). Another move or two gets you to some more holes and a bomber #1.5 friend placement. Balance your way up a bit left to the first BR (crux). Cruise up easy slab (BR) to final stiff moves (BR). Grunt over the little roof to finish at good belay tree.
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Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1997-08-27
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The Hollows
Size isn't everything, but in this case a bit more sure would be nice. Still, this is a nice little set of slabs of about 11m. It can be found tucked away 30m directly down hill from HB (on Basement Wall).
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Nobody Home
|
15
|
11m
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|
At lefthand side of base. Pleasant climbing. Up the middle of the slab with adequate pro.
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Andrew Powell (solo) 1996-05-14
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Timbre
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15
|
11m
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|
Very much the same as NH, but keeping to the left hand edge of the wall, through overlap and onto top. Once again not bad pro.
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Andrew Powell (solo) 1996-05-14
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*
|
Gate Keeper
|
20
|
10m
|
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|
Left of slot opening at grey streak. Nice moves on compact grey streak. Straight up streak (2 BRs) to bolt belay 3m back on block.
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|
Andrew Powell. Tim Maroney, Paul Riviere 1996-06-02
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|
*
|
Thin Skinned
|
22
|
10m
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|
0.5m left of GK. Thin just thin, good though! Trend left up black rock on massive edges (3 BRs). Tree belay.
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|
|
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Glass Snout
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17
|
10m
|
|
|
4m left of TS. An easing slab. Pad up past BR, #1.5 friend and small wires. Tree belay.
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|
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 1996-06-02
|
The Long White Roof
The highest section of cliff offering some of the best rock at Joll's. Best accessed by walking left along the base of the cliff from Crack 'n' Up and Basement Walls for about 280m. The 70m long roof with its polished white stone is reminiscent of Tjuringa Wall at Mt Arapiles.
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* *
|
Rock 'n' Robyn
|
22
|
20m
|
|
|
Just before the right hand end of the roof at short, overhanging wall. Up the easy wall (2 U bolts) then an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Up the orange stain (#1, #2 friends in the middle) then two RBs to the top. Tree belay.
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|
Paul Riviere 1996-04
|
|
* *
|
Dreamtime
|
26
|
15m
|
|
|
5m left of RnR. Move up to roof and out R along flake heading for the overhanging arete.
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|
Paul Riviere
|
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|
Pass The Ladder
|
24
|
25m
|
|
|
4m left of D. Move left initially then right at 5m where a horizontal band hides a U bolt placed well back. Swing further right past huge pockets to the apex of the roof. Follow the line up the headwall to a large ledge with a tree. 7 U bolts in all.
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|
Paul Riviere 1996-05
|
|
* *
|
Three's A Crowd
|
24
|
50m
|
|
|
The main break in the roof. The Coast's answer to Stranger's EIiminate. Take a full rack of friends plus some wires.
1. (24) 3 U bolts and a #3 friend bring you to a double BB anchor out left on a ledge.
2. (22) Up into corner to get good rock and friend placements. Over the small bulge past 2 U bolts and it gets slabby until you reach a big ledge. Natural belay (wires and friends).
3. (22) Move 5m right along the ledge, then up final steep section to find natural belay anchors in cave.
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|
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1995-07-23
|
|
* * *
|
Power and Glory
|
25
|
35m
|
|
|
10m left of TAC. Up the rib/flake to the roof, passing 3 U bolts and an expansion bolt originally used for aid. Hard moves through the roof (bomber #1.5 and #2 friends). 2 more U bolts bring you to a rap anchor.
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|
Paul Riviere
|
