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A striking line that climbs the top half of a large wall, with excellent views and exposure. 70m of quality crack climbing with a bolt protected chossy start and easy finish. The climb faces south. Escape may be possible by traversing right (facing In) along the shale ledge then contouring around the point and back to pick up the lower part of the walking trail, but this has not been attempted and not recommended.
Locate 2 bolts at head height in rock outcrop to your right (facing out) of small clear area. 33m rap to ledge with another 2 bolts, 50m rap to shale ledge and 2 belay bolts near old chain, Rope just reaches. You can rap in using a doubled single 60m rope with a lot of jiggery pokery.
Recommended rack: 10 quickdraws and slings, friends 1 x 0.5, 2 x 2, 3 x 2.5, 3 x 3, 1 x 3.5, 2 x 4, 2 x 5 and 13 bolt brackets. Pitches could be linked but you'll need a bigger rack.
P1 13m 17. Starting on large sloping shale band climb the short wall to reach 2nd shale band, delicately traverse left over the shale to ledge, number 5 friend and bolt belay. 6 bolts.
P2 24m 20. Follow bolts up vertical juggy wall with soft rock, to gain arête, Place a high 3.5 or 4 friend in shallow break then traverse right to crack, Great crack climbing from this point up. Save a couple of 2.5 friends for belay. 3 bolts.
P3 25m 18. Up crack to bolt belay, another good pitch.
P4 25m 17. Up crack veer left at 25m and belay 2m leftwards near small grass tree on small ledge. Medium friend belay.
P5 23m 14. Diagonally left and up left side of arête. Gear and 2 bolts.
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