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Cliffs up to 15m high |
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IntroductionAll the routes probably need cleaning, most of them have only had one or two ascents, so grades may vary. Also there may still be some loose holds. All the fixed gear is glue-ins, and stainless. There is potential for some excellent routes here. Be very discreet and minimise your impact while climbing here - this crag may be on private property. |
AccessFind Crosslands Rd, off Galston Rd. If coming from Hornsby go through the gorge and turn right at the top. Drive north to the end (about 6km), park just before the road winds down the hill to the Conference Centre, there is a sign here saying private road from this point, and no public access to river. The Conference Centre often have their rubbish bins here. Step over logs and follow a fire trail north along the ridge top. Take the right hand trail after about 400m and follow it to the clifftop (about another 200m). Descent is possible at either end, but the end closer to the carpark is best. Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff. |
| Pipsqueak | 13 | 5m | |||
| Short crack from ledge on descent route. | |||||
| Julian Anderson (solo) 1999 | |||||
| * * | Life in the Bus Lane | 23 | 10m | ||
| First route on main wall. The start has become harder since a hold broke. Up flake line then right and up on pockets. 4 BRs to lower offs. An excellent route. | |||||
| Julian Anderson 2001 | |||||
| Open Project #1 | ?? | 10m | |||
| 6m right of LitBL. Cleaned, top roped and drilled by Julian, but he never got around to equipping it. | |||||
| Open Project #2 | ?? | 10m | |||
| 2m right of OP1. Cleaned, top roped and drilled by Julian, but he never got around to equipping it. 1 BR. | |||||
| Nasty | 16 | 6m | |||
| Short slab climb at right end of main wall. 2RB to lower-off | |||||
| Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | |||||
| Less than Nasty | 10 | 12m | |||
| Start 1m right of Nasty. Up blocks to corner.Then up slab following RB's to lower-off. | |||||
| R Wills, 2009 | |||||
| Short Corner | 6 | 6m | |||
| Up the short corner! (Forms lower part of Less than Nasty) | |||||
| Stuart Preston (solo) | |||||
| One Hit Wonder | 16 | 12m | |||
| Up over block. One hard move from block then up slab to lower-off | |||||
| Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | |||||
| John West Reject | 10 | 10m | |||
| Up blocks onto ledge, bouldery move then up slab. | |||||
| Julian Anderson (solo) 1999 | |||||
| * | Split Enzo | 13 | 10m | ||
| The obvious crack. Good climbing, good gear. | |||||
| Julian Andersen, Stuart Preston, Jim McMillan 2000 | |||||
| Youth Enhanced | 21 | 10m | |||
| 1m right of SE. 4 BRs to tree. | |||||
| Julian Anderson 2001 | |||||
| * | Mind Quest | 18 | 9m | ||
| R Wills, 5 July 2009 | |||||
| Age Impaired | 22? | 15m | |||
| 10m right of YE. Up shallow arete and corner past 2 BRs. Go left (crux) to mantle. #2.5 friend, then up small corner to ledge (BR). Up slab to tree. | |||||
| Julian Anderson 2001 | |||||
| Exterior Expectations | 19 | 15m | |||
| 4m right of AI. Onto ledge past BR, then left up slab past 3 more BRs to tree. | |||||
| Julian Andersen, Jim McMillan 2000 | |||||
| Feral Fashions | 18 | 15m | |||
| Start as for EE. At ledge go right and straight up wall past 4 or so BRs to BB. | |||||
| Julian Anderson 2000 | |||||
| It's Only Natural | 12 | 15m | |||
| Up the chimney, and thrutch to glory. Take big gear. | |||||
The next routes are 10m right past big sandy cave.
| Possum Hollow | 15 | 12m | |||
| Up wall to RB, then onto ledge, go left and up wall to top. wires and cams. | |||||
| Julian Andersen, Marcus Andersen 2000 | |||||
| Green With Envy | 14 | 12m | |||
| Start as for PH. Right up shallow corner to top. Wires and cams. | |||||
| Julian Andersen, Marcus Andersen 2000 | |||||
The following climbs are located at the northern end of the crag.
| A Little Problematic | 16 | 8m | |||
| Kevin Van Tilburg, Feb 2009 | |||||
| Problematic Voiding | 12 | 9m | |||
| R Wills, Feb 2009 | |||||
| Across The Void | 12 | 8m | |||
| R Wills, Feb 2009 | |||||