Cracks Corner

Sun from 10am

Introduction

Cracks Corner is located right beside the Upper Colo Rd, about 14km west of the Colo River Bridge. If you do climb here, be very careful of cars (and trail bike hoons) since you will be belaying on the road for most of the routes.

History

The crag was apparently developed back in the 1980s by Nat Nichols, but unfortunately all of the information seems to have disappeared (along with Nat). The following names, grades and descriptions are therefore not the original ones.

Access

Drive out to Windsor, and go straight ahead (onto Putty Rd) just after crossing the Hawkesbury. About 20 minutes after leaving Windsor you will reach the big Colo River bridge. Take the turn off to the left just before the bridge, and at the T intersection turn left (west) onto the Upper Colo Rd. Follow this road for about 14kms (about 1km past the "Colo Heights" turn off that leads to Funnelweb Gulch).


Roadside Crag

Climbs described left to right (east to west) facing the cliff.

A ?? 12m
Short offwidth at far left hand end of the crag. Up to ledge. Up blocks.
B ?? 12m
1m right of A. Dirty, fused corner crack.
Play Misty For Me 14 12m
5m right of B below obvious splitter crack. Up pleasant hand crack to ledge. Meander up blocks to tree belay.
C 8? 12m
As for PMFM. Up low angled, right tending corner crack. BR out right near the top (on SSLT). Tree belay.
SSLT 17? 12m
3m right of C. Marked (very faintly). Rounded arete with 4 BRs (2nd and 3rd look dodgy). Tree belay.
D ?? 12m
4m right of SSLT. Vegetated offwidth (hold me back!).
E ?? 12m
3m right of D. 4 BRs (2nd is dodgy).
F ?? 10m
4m right of E. Corner crack.
G ?? 10m
1m right of F. Left tending dirty offwidth.
H ?? 12m
Obvious corner crack in middle of crag. 3 BRs tending left (1st is dodgy).
* * Do You Feel Lucky, Punk? 18 12m
As for H. Straight up the crack and through the roof at the top. Sustained good moves and good rock the entire way up. Tree belay well back.
I ?? 12m
As for H. 2 dodgy BRs tending right to arete, runout to third dodgy BR over bulge (hidden from the ground). Tree belay well back.
J 18? 15m
10m right of I, at twin cracks. 3 BRs tending left up middle of black wall.
* Bronco Billy 14 15m
As for J. Straight up the twin cracks then continue up the lovely thin crack above. Step right to WDY, or continue up dirty, chossy, runout headwall.
* Well Do Ya? 15 15m
3m right of BB, below small left facing corner. Up the lovely crack / corner then step right to the thin splitter crack in the headwall (take care with pro). Tree belay.
* * The Eiger Sanction Direct 19 15m
3m right of WDY at thin, dirty corner crack. Up the crack without using the arete. Very technical with some very delicate bridging.
The Eiger Sanction 16 15m
As for TESD. Up the crack, using the arete to the right.

Upper Cracks Corner