Camp Cove

Morning sun

Sea cliff


Despite its name, the crag is better described as South Head, since it lies on the eastern (seaward) side of the point, just below the South Head (Hornby) Lighthouse. Although some of the climbs here look quite good, the fixed protection is very badly weathered, making most of the climbs unleadable. In addition, the crag lies within the Sydney Harbour National Park, meaning that climbing is banned (and police and rangers actively enforce the ban within this NP). The cliff and route descriptions have been included in here in the hope that one day access is restored. It looks like there are a couple more routes at the crag than is described. They are distinguished by lines of manky bolts.


To get there, drive out to Vaucluse, and park at the Camp Cove carpark (which can be very busy during summer). A pleasant 10 minute walk leads up past Camp Cove and Lady Bay Beach (a popular gay nudist beach) and on towards the lighthouse. Scramble down to the rocks at the end of the point, then head right (east) around the headland then south for about 100m around the bottom of the cliff (which gets increasingly bigger the further you go). Climbs described right to left (north to south), facing the cliff.

And the Big Man's Fly 20 15m
4m right of GPG. Up the wall (BRs).
Mikl Law 1980's
Gentlemen Prefer Gentlemen 22 18m
5m right of G, below corner. Up corner to break. Continue up corner before heading left (crux) to the top.
Giles Bradbury 1980's
* * Gayline 22 18m
Marked. The obvious, left facing thin corner line. Up the corner for 5m then step left and up to big block. Up the wall on pockets (BRs) then continue up the final part of the corner.
Mikl Law 1980's
* Strange Bedfellows 22 20m
8m left of G, just left of steep corner and roof crack. Up and right (BR) to the corner. Follow this up and through roof.
Giles Bradbury 1980's
* Heavy Pants 21 15m
Up as for SB, then step left at 5m and climb up wall (BR).
Mikl Law 1980's
Camping Out 21 10m
Just around the arete left of HP. Up the small wall (BRs).
Giles Bradbury 1980s