Introduction
Despite its name, the crag is better described as South Head, since it lies on the eastern (seaward) side of the point, just below the South Head (Hornby) Lighthouse. Although some of the climbs here look quite good, the fixed protection is very badly weathered, making most of the climbs unleadable. In addition, the crag lies within the Sydney Harbour National Park, meaning that climbing is banned (and police and rangers actively enforce the ban within this NP). The cliff and route descriptions have been included in here in the hope that one day access is restored. It looks like there are a couple more routes at the crag than is described. They are distinguished by lines of manky bolts.
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Access
To get there, drive out to Vaucluse, and park at the Camp Cove carpark (which can be very busy during summer). A pleasant 10 minute walk leads up past Camp Cove and Lady Bay Beach (a popular gay nudist beach) and on towards the lighthouse. Scramble down to the rocks at the end of the point, then head right (east) around the headland then south for about 100m around the bottom of the cliff (which gets increasingly bigger the further you go). Climbs described right to left (north to south), facing the cliff.
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