Bungonia Gorge



Unfinished guide. Many route descriptions in the wrong order as the ACA guide is majorly mangled. Please be patient while this guide is being put together.


from the Mike Law-Smith guide... "Bungonia Gorge consists of limestone, a rock that is new to the Australian hand. Cracks, flakes and ribs offer challenging route finding with sporty cruxes amidst a big wall situation. Most routes are long and arduous, and require a full day to complete. However, there are a few shorter (1 or 2 pitch) routes which offer high quality climbing without too much commitment. Alternatively it is possible to link combinations of different dimbs, many of which allow the option of retreat at the end of each pitch. Generally speaking the quality of rock you are most likely to encounter ranges from fair to excellent with the odd bit of choss here and there. Climbing conditions in the gorge are predominantly favourable all year round. The North Wall is shaded and provides a cool haven during the height of summer whereas the South Wall is mostly sunlit, making it ideal during the cooler months. The Gorge can fill up with water after extended periods of rain and wading may be required to access some routes at certain times of the year."


The Bungonia Recreation Area has camp sites and showers.

North Wall (Western End)

Operation Zucchini 18 30m
Start at the extreme left hand end of the North Wall below a water polished buttress with a small roof at 10M (about 200M down from the Red Efflux track). Up to the roof and get some threads. Pull over this and up to the tree belay. Rap off.
Tony Barten, Mike Peck 1986
Green Peace 19 120m
Could this be a jungle safari? 1: 30M (17) Up the easy corner to a tree and then traverse R to a ledge belay. 2: 45M (19) Cut back leftwards and continue up lots of flakes, scoops and greenery to a good stance. 3: 45M (16) Even greener! Climb the ledges, scoops and trees leftwards to a tree belay.
Matt Madin, Andrew Kean 1986 or 87
Roger Ramjet 20 65m
Cleaner, harder and more direct than “Green Peace”. 1: 20M (19) Up the thin wall to the big ledge. 2: 45M (20) A longer pitch offering varied climbing. Head pretty much straight upwards to a stance.
Matt Madin, Dave McGregor 1986 or 87
Solar Wind 21 115m
Exploration and discovery. 1: 20M (12) Shares the same start as “Rum Bum and Gramophones”. Move easily up to the big ledge. Walk left to a prominent flake. 2: 40M (21) A good traditional pitch. Climb the flake and traverse left to easier ground. Now head straight up to a tree belay. 3: 30M (14) Follow a series of crater shaped ledges and scoops. Belay where convenient. 4: 25M (12) Continue rightwards to link up with “Rum Bum and Gramophones” and the 5th belay of “Strangeness and Charm”.
John Fantini, Will Moon 1987
* Rum, Bum and Gramaphones 21 130m
Quite good fun. 1: 20M (12) Up to the left hand end of the big ledge, as for “Solar Wind”. 2: 40M (21) Take the nice exfoliated flakes above, trend R and upwards past some delicate moves that lead to a relaxing belay in a round recess (sapling belay). 3: 40M (20) Continue straight up for 4M then L to the steepening buttress. Follow the moderate corner system on its left side. Look for a good stance at 40M. 4: 30M (12) Finish more easily to the 5th belay on “Strangeness and Charm”.
John Smoothy, W Moon 1984
Cosmic Tickler 22 45m
A harder alternative to “Rum Bum and Gramophones”. 1: 45M (22) Start from the “relaxing belay” on “Rum Bum and Gramophones”. Take the R side of the steepening buttress and follow it to connect with the final crux on “Strangeness and Charm (slings, wires and things). A difficult move above leads to the 4th belay on “Strangeness and Charm”.
John Fantini, Matt Madin 1987
* * Space Quakes 24 140m
Quite Challenging. 1: 45M (24) Climb easily up to a bulge and then move through it with caution to a bolt which leads to another bolt on top of a flake. Step down and teeter leftwards for several metres (gr 24) or stand in a foot sling to reach the flake on the left. Move leftwards into a groove and continue up past another bolt with some interesting moves on flakes to gain the bolt belay on the right. 2: 45M (21) Up more easily to the top of the flake and traverse horizontally R for 3 metres. Keep moving up trending R past a few flakes and natural pro to gain the 3rd belay on “Strangeness and Charm”. 3: 45M (22) Traverse back leftwards and upwards to a prominent spike and climb up its L side to the steepening rock above. Place a good wire at the bulge and make a hard couple of moves to reach the 4th belay on "Strangeness and Charm”.
John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith (1 Aid) 1986. FFA Mike Law-Smith 1989
* * Strangeness and Charm Direct Start 23 45m
Superb. Easily up to a large scoop (friends and wires). Up to the roof and slot a #3½ friend beneath it. Lean out and clip a bolt before pulling over the lip (crux). Clip another bolt and then ascend diagonally R past an assortment of bolts, wires and friends to the 2nd belay on “Strangeness and Charm”.
Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore 1984
Synchrotron 26 45m
Rather extreme. 1: 45M (26) Straight up to the roof using side runners. Slot a #1 friend in the roof, clip a bolt and swing over the roof (crux). Continue up past 3 more bolts.
Mike Law-Smith, Glenn Tempest 1989
* * Wailing Cockatoo 24 or 22 45m
Perfect climbing in dicey situations. 1: 45M (24 or 22) Up the crack to a large scoop (wires). A few more moves give way to a bolt. Up to the roof (#1 friend) and R around it to another bolt. Get the hollow sounding flake above and trend leftwards past a bolt and straight up towards 2 more bolts which are 3 metres apart. Either wimp out L to connect with “Strangeness And Charm DS” (gr 22) or directly upwards past a 4th bolt (gr 24).
John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith (22) 1988. Glenn Tempest (24) 1989
* * * Critical Mass 24 85m
An excellent climb offering run-out situations with a mixture of bolts and natural protection. 1: 20M (22) Really nice thin wall climbing up some strange looking rock (4 bolts) leads to a cute belay in the scoop. 2: 25M (24) Move leftwards up the slab to a bolt then continue straight up to cross the traverse on “Strangeness and Charm” to a steep headwall. Straight up this past 2 more bolts (crux) to a belay chain. 3: 40M (23) Some delicate slabbing L from the belay leads to a bolt. Clip this and continue straight up past 3 more bolts and eventually stepping L to the 3rd belay on “Strangeness and Charm”.
Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith 1989
* * Comet Chaser 24 150m
Scary and sustained. This climb would probably get more ascents if the route had been set up better. However, it is a fine example of what can be done on sight (from the ground up without any prior inspection). 1: 45M (22) Really nice climbing up the steep sections. Start directly below a niche and move out L and up the steep rock on good positive holds to reach the left end of a small ledge. Place a #3 Friend in a hole, traverse R and up a small corner to gain the belay on “Strangeness and Charm”. 2: 20M (24) Straight up from the belay to the overlap for a good stopper placement, move L and upwards to gain the prominent small corner. Continue up past a hard move (24 was 22A1) to gain the hanging belay at an obvious short crack. 3: 45M (24) This pitch needs a good solid rack of gear. Struggle up the L side of a flake before traversing R to gain a series of pockets which lead to a solitary bolt high up. Make some hard moves past the bolt to gain a bolt belay a few metres above. 4: 40M (22) Continue straight up past a few fixed wires or traverse horizontally L to gain the 4th belay on “Strangeness and Charm”.
John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith 1 Aid 1986. FFA S Boyden M Snell (Britain) 1987
Microwave 21 45m
A gap filler. The difficult bit is at the bulge. Hammer in the odd wire and continue up to the 1st belay on “Strangeness and Charm”.
John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith 1986
* * * Strangeness and Charm 22 160m
An all time classic on beautiful limestone. The most popular route at Bungonia. 1: 45M (18) Up the wide crack and wall to a ledge with a tree. Join 2 slings together and sling the tree. Now move out L and up to a large scoop with a couple of wires. Continue trending diagonally up leftwards to a small belay ledge with 2 bolts. 2: 20M (18) Delicately across the traverse to a hanging belay chain. 3: 30M (22) Pleasant climbing up a flake system that leads to a steeper section with 2 bolts (crux). Continue up the line to finish out L, past the restriction, to a belay with a bolt and thread. 4: 20M (22) Easily up to another steep section with bolts. A long reach gives way to a scoop (crux). Step L to a lounge chair belay with chain in a large round hole. 5: 45M (19) Up to a bolt before moving down L and up to the top of the North Wall. Retreat by rapping back down the route.
Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore 1984
* Galactic Wanderer 25A1 190m
This route was started by Giles Bradbury and was finished off by John Fantini. 1: 45M (19) As for “Strangeness and Charm” pitch 1 to the scoop and L to the belay on 2 bolts. Move rightwards past a bolt to a stance with a chain. 2: 45M (21A1 or 25) Easily but carefully up the slab above the belay to a bolt. At the roof, move left, then either use 3 aids or free climb to get across the roof. Up the corner to a hanging belay (bolts). 3: 50M (21) Up past 3 bolts and continue trending L to a hanging belay at 50M. Route finding ability is a useful asset on this pitch. 4: 50M (20) Continue a leftward trend which aims for the protruding blackboy above.
Pitches 1 & 2: Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore 1985 Pitches 2 & 3: John Fantini, Matt Madin
Cosmos 22 45m
Nice climbing after a grubby start. Start about 5M right of “Strangeness and Charm”. Some steep moves up the short wall give way to the ledge (wires). Continue up to a bolt with some thin moves (crux). Up to the 1st belay on Galactic Wanderer.
Mike Law-Smith 1986
Big, Dark and Mysterious 24 ?m
1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of Strangeness. 1 ?m (19) 2.?m (22) 3. ?m (24)
Graham Fairbain
* * Masters of the Universe 26 110m
Line of hangers to the right of Big, dark and mysterious. P1 (20m, 18) Start in short open corner and head up following bolts. A small/medium nut reduces the runout up the slab. Belay on bolts just below the first overlap. P2 (20m, 23) Cruxy. Out roof (crux) and up slabby wall. Continue past rap anchor and two more bolts to bolted belay up under the second overlap. It may be more comfortable to belay at the rap anchor - it gives a better view of the next pitch. P3 (25m, 26) Traverse left from the belay to the stalagtite and out the overlap. Into the corner to the right, up a couple of metres and head left and up following bolts. Belay in the big hole. Great climbing! P4 (45m, 23) A great, sustained pitch. Out of the belay hole to the left and follow bolts up. At about the half-way mark is an obvious thread that may make the run out a bit more comfortable, it requires a 120cm sling. Where the bolts trend right, use a couple of long slings to reduce drag. At about 35m, clip a bolt to the right (long sling) and head up and left easily to the belay. Be cautious rapping from here - if you thread all three bolts the rope may not pull. Rap to anchor on ledge 10m left of the third belay. Rap again to station halfway up Pitch 2, and again to the ground. P5 (25) Fully bolted as far as I know. Looks dirty and unappealing. Take a big brush!
Graham Fairbain

North Wall (Eastern End)

Chicken Head Row 25 45m
The obvious overhanging line immediately to the left of the “Morgan Mortimer Route”. Good steep rock to keep the adrenalin level up. 1: 20M (25) Up past the overhanging block using an aid point to gain the tree belay above. 2: 25M (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a fine sequence of chicken heads to gain a hanging double bolt belay.
John Fantini, Dave McGregor 1989. FFA Richard Watts
* Morgan Mortimer Route 22 75m
A tremendous effort for its time. 1: 50M (22) A hard start with sketchy protection gives way to a good short crack higher up. Now move across left to the void and up into a shallow groove with a piton. Continue up to gain the top of a small pedestal. Belay on good Stoppers and Friends. 2: 25M (22) Directly up to a bolt/stud before dropping down to traverse out R to gain an obvious groove. Make a series of interesting moves to continue upwards and finish with some fine bridging to reach a double bolt belay.
Pete Morgan, Greg Mortimer mid 1970s
* * Coal Sack 22A1 195m
A big wall. 1: 40M (22) As for the “Morgan Mortimer Route” to the stance on top of a small block. 2: 40M (21) Gain the obvious traverse weakness above and continue horizontally until forced to drop down to the big ledge and tree way out to the right. 3: 40M (22) Start R of the tree on small holds. Continue for a few metres until it’s possible to go out left. Continue up and leftwards doing a rising arc to gain the hanging belay. 4: 40M (21A1) Straight up and over some rather unique steep rock on pockets until forced to resort to aiding for 5 points due to calcified rock. Continue up on mind blowing chicken heads to gain a good thread belay. 5: 35M (21) Continue up a groove/flake system then almost horizontally right to a small sapling. Follow the weakness upwards until forced to move left around an awkward groove to the hanging stance on the left with a bolt rappel anchor.
John Fantini, Dave McGregor 1985
Red Shift 23A1 167m
A connection from “Jewel Box” to “Coal Sack”. 1: 42M (23) Up “Jewel Box” to a hanging belay in a large scoop just below the cave. 2: 50M (22) Traverse leftwards until the holds run out. Do a tension traverse to gain some good holds again and join the 3rd pitch of “Coal Sack”. 3 & 4: Continue as for pitches 4 and 5 of “Coal Sack”.
John Fantini, Matt Madin 1985
* * * Jewel Box 23 150m
A very sustained and strenuous route which has repelled many strong leaders. A classic that gives three of the best naturally protected pitches at Bungonia. 1: 50M (23) Start right next to the camping cave. An unprotected start leads to a #3 Friend at 9M. Move left around the bulge to a steep wall with a fixed sling. Thin moves up this to a ledge (crux) and a no hands rest. Teeter left to surmount the block (with caution) and then up to a small cave high up. Sustained but well protected climbing brings you to the belay cave. 2: 50M (23) Lean out and place a wire just above the cave. Step down and traverse across leftwards for a few moves and then follow a line of holds to the roof. Clip a fixed pin and get a #2 or #2½ Friend up high and to the left. Ape your way right across the roof (crux) to a “thank god” flake and rest. Easier climbing leads to a stance at 50M (2 bolts on the stance). 3: 50M (21) From the belay take the rising groove to the left and continue up leftwards in a rising arc to a block at the overlap. Pull through the overlap and continue directly up a few metres before traversing horizontally left. Move leftwards to a groove which seems the only sane way up. Continue up using lots of good small Stoppers to a point where it is possible to traverse way out left to the bolt rap station.
John Fantini, Tony Barten 2 Aids 1984. FFA (pitch 1) J Demontjoy (pitch 2) Chris Plant 1986
Hyperspace 22A1 125m
Steep with plenty of space between the knees. Start 6M right of “Jewel Box”. 1: 35M (21A1) Up the flake to the first bolt and continue left and on up past some bolts on aid until it is possible to free climb on excellent rock to the belay cave. 2: 25M (21A1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay under the roof. 3: 40M (22A1) Aid through the roof on bolts and stoppers to a wall above, then move right to the flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay. 4: 25M (19) Move left from the belay and up to the obvious buttress above on beautiful rock. Note: The route finishes at the foot of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.
John Fantini
* * * Teflon 31 23m
Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.
Lee Cossey 2001
* * Olympus Mons 26A1 220m
The mother climb at Bungonia. Takes all the obvious orange overhanging corners at the right hand end of the North Wall. The route was hand bolted over a period of 3 weekends. All belays are on bolts. The first pitch was eventually done free at 26 by a visiting Italian hot shot after it was power bolted for fast clips. Most of the lower pitches used substantial aid moves on the first ascent. 1: 40M (26) Start at the very obvious overhanging crack and continue out steeply, 26 or Al, to a vertical wall and cave. Go out and over the top of the cave lip and trend diagonally right over some interesting moves to the bolt belay. 2: 40M (21A1) Surmount an overlap and traverse left on bolts to further bolts. Over the next steep overlap to finish up a free crack to gain the next niche belay. 3: 30M (21A1) Continue up the crack to the slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay. 4: 40M (21A1) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue free climbing up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay. 5: 30M (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt runner. Traverse left at the obvious line to gain a steep groove and bulge which lead to a belay ledge. 6: 40M (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take an obvious leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.
John Fantini, Keith Bell 1991. FFA (pitch 1) Rolando Archer (Italy)
* * Planet Gorgonberg 27 20m
Great climbing on the wall just right of Olympus Mons.
Andrew Bull 2001
Crab Nebula 21 220m
Almost a girdle. Pitch 1 not the best but the remainder are well worth while if one likes girdles. 1: 50M (19) Start at the very right hand end of the roofs on the North Wall. Up some choss to a tree at 50M. 2: 35M (20) Follow the scoops, cracks and ledges L to another tree belay. 3: 30M (17) Continue leftwards past a tree to a good stance. 4: 30M (16) More traversing leftwards to the 2nd belay on “Jewel Box”. 5: 40M (21) Up “Jewel Box” for about 5M then diagonally leftwards to the 4th belay on “Coal Sack”. 6: 35M (21) As for the 5th pitch of “Coal Sack”. Continue up a groove/flake system then almost horizontally right to a small sapling. Follow the weakness upwards until forced to move left around an awkward groove to the hanging stance on the left with a bolt rappel anchor.
John Fantini, Dave McGregor 1985
Premonition 22 170m
Start 60m right of Olympus Mons at the toe of the wide prominent buttress. No bolts. Scary. P1 (45m, 14) Wander up the buttress to belay at a ledge. P2 (50m, 17) Continue up the buttress to a tree belay. P3 (40m, 22) Scary and hard. Follow the line to the steep wall right of the prominent corner. Up the wall trending rightwards on the obvious, steep line of holds. Belay at a blackboy after the wall kicks back. P4 (35m, 18) Up the slab to rejoin the very loose corner. Belay at a fixed hex up high. Rap the route to retreat.
Vera Wong, Andrew McAuley 04-1998

Chicken Wall

Further downstream is a yellow wall about 60m uphill.

Finger Lickin' Good 23 25m
The left line.
Andrew Bull 1999
Hawaiian Pack 24 30m
The right line.
Rob LeBreton 1999

South Wall

Teiger Very Severe (maybe 17?) 20 pitches
The first ascent of the South Wall was made by John Davis and Bryden Allen in the early 1960s, after an initial attempt by Rick Higgins and Davis. The line taken is unclear, but the first pitch of 100ft (30m) was achieved by 'climbing a convenient tree', and the 2nd pitch was 'the very image of a photo we had seen of the Hinterstoisser traverse on the Eiger'. Pitch 3 was 120ft (36m) of aid on a 'perfectly smooth' and slightly overhanging face - 5 bolts and 13 pitons. Higgins and Davis bivvied at the base of this pitch, and by midday on the 2nd day they were 'directly under a monstrous overhang'. They retreated from 300ft (90m) up. On the successful climb 2 weeks later, Davis and Allen 'went on past the overhang, where the climbing 'soon became quite dicey'. They 'had been climbing forty-five degrees to the left, keeping above an ever-increasing overhang' which made abseil retreat impossible. 'At nightfall, after an exciting hand traverse and layback, we found a niche in the wall big enough for one person...and beside it a small ledge big enough for a bivouac.' They 'finished the climb next day having done twenty pitches of overall grade "Very Severe"'. They called it Teiger, to be pronounced 'teeger' at Allen's insistence. (Reference: 'The Bushwalker' Vol. 2, No. 3, no date, NSW Federation of Bushwalking Clubs)
John Davis, Bryden Allen (and Rick Higgins) (var.) early 1960s
Slope'n Soap'n 24 50m
1. 25m (24) Start 3M left of “Pulsar”, a wide bridge across to the wall and bolt. A hard move leads to sustained climbing past five more bolts. Chain belay on ledge. 2. 25M (21) A fun pitch with good pro. Up the crack then left to a bolt, traverse left and up a slippery wall to a good ledge. Rap off tree (3 bolts).
Tony Barten, Andrew Bull (pitch 1) 1990. Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell, Brogan Bunt (pitch 2) 1989
* * Pulsar 18 50m
A delightful introduction. Bridge across from the large boulder until the corner crack can be gained. Up this to a ledge and bolt (you can belay here). Follow the corner/crack system until it peters out. Step left and then delicately up to a tree and bolt belay.
Phil Georgeff, Bill Begg, Matt Madin 1985
Stardust 20 50m
Thin, slippery and totally worthless as the bolts only lead to two thirds height. Up the slab with 4 bolts a few metres right of “Pulsar”.
Scott Camps 1985
Startrek 18 50m
Not worth it. Up the grotty slab further right of “Stardust”.
Antique 20 50m
Nothing special. Up the slab past 3 bolts to a ledge and tree belay.
FA Unknown
* In The Lap Of The Mountain Gods 21 65m
Can be used as a variant start to “Red Supergiant”. 1: 40M (21) Up the thin crack and wall to an overlap. Follow the line leftwards and up past a fixed peg to a ledge and tree. Now either take the crack above all the way or merge into the left crack (best option). Finish easily up the arete to a good stance with bolts. 2: 25M (17) Move up the right side of the arete above and continue trending right to gain the 2nd belay on “Red Supergiant”.
Will Moon Bruce Cameron 1985
* * Red Supergiant 20A1 365m
A good alpine adventure despite the fact that the rock quality rates fair at its best. The only route that finishes at the old “Cooee Point” lookout. 1: 45M (20) A chipped square marks the start. Delicate moves up the slab lead to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to anchors. 2: 45M (20) Up 2 metres from the belay to a series of holds leading right. Continue right to a short corner in the overlap (#3–#5 Rocks). Some balancey moves over this to easier ground (crux) and tree. Continue upwards trending leftwards, at 6M surmount another small overlap, then on up to the belay 8M above. 3: 50M (16) Move left from the stance to a corner, up this and through the overlap (good pro). Straight up to a tree belay at 50M out to the left and along the ramp. 4: 50M (12) Easy bush-bashing up the ramp to a tree belay at 50M. 5: 45M (13) Up the ramp for 10M. Move right at the tree and ledge, continue to do so by making a rightwards traverse to gain the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock. 6: 30M (18) Things steepen a bit now. Step right from the ledge into a corner and up it. When the corner finishes, step left into another line and follow it to a good belay ledge. This is a good spot to eat lunch whilst contemplating the steep orange wall above. 7: 50M (20) Make some committing moves up the orange groove (#3/4 Friend). Continue up an orange niche and make some difficult moves to gain the easier rock above. Up to the small stance under the steepening orange wall (large size Friends in pockets). More difficult moves lead onto the precarious block over to the left (crux). Get some good small sized Friends in the corner and follow it. From the corner step right onto the buttress and follow a large ramp to a neat little cave beneath an overhang. 8: 50M (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite (slings) until the ramp finishes. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of an orange corner with a bolt in it. Stand on the bolt and reach very high for a #4 Friend (Al). Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets in it (Friends with 4 or 5 slings attached so as to avoid rope drag). Move delicately rightwards onto the wall above. Go up and over right to a good #4 tube chock in a neat little pocket. Now up the corner to the old “Cooec Point Lookout”.
John Fantini, Dave McGregor 1985
Project - Rob LeBreton and Tim Booth ?m
Takes a line through the big orange overhang left of its apex.
Strider 16 35m
Needs cleaning. Start from a grassy ledge almost direcdy opposite the campsite. Go through the roof (crux) and up the easy wall above.
Steve Schnell 1989
* * Nitro Express 23 115m
Excellent dimbing although a bit run out in places. Bolts where you want them and natural pro in between. Start 5M left of “Arachnophobia”. 1: 25M (19) Up through the steep overlap past 2 bolts to the tree and belay. 2: 30M (22) Up through the overhang with bolts and then the wall with a mixture of natural protection and bolts. A bit run out in places. 3: 15M (23) Straight up the corner from the belay and move left to the tree belay. 4: 45M (23) Some desperate moves through the bulge (bolt) lead to a run out slab with bolts to the chain belay left of the big cave in the big orange overhanging wall. One can also deviate from the line to the 3rd belay on “Iron Curtain”.
John Fantini, Keith Bell (alt leads) 1991
* Arachnophobia 20 35m
As slippery as a butcher’s dick. Up the technical wall past 3 bolts to a good #2 Friend. Step left and pad your way left into the crack. Climb the crack and finish up past several more bolts. Good belay ledge off to the left.
Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, Glenn Robbins 1989
Iron Curtain 22 125m
A well protected, thoroughly enjoyable multi-pitch climb starting between “Arachnophobia” and “Bob Yabbie”. 1: 35M 21 An excellent pitch in its own right. Take a full rack of quickdraws and a selection of Friends, and clip on up to a bolt belay behind a small tree. 2: 30M 22 Move left for about 5 metres until you reach some bolts leading through an overlap. Straight up past the abseil chain and through another overlap to a corner which has some difficult moves to exit left. 2 bolts with shackles, threads and Friends for the belay. 3: 30M 22 Move left from the belay, slot in a wire and then power on up the bulging wall and slab above. At about 25 metres, clip a directional bolt and move right to a comfortable ledge with 3 bolts to belay. 4: 30M 18 A novel pitch. From the comfort of the belay move back out left to the directional bolt and then up the slab to a large stalactite with a couple of threads. Continue up through a plague of bolts and some chossy stuff to yet another bolt belay below the imposing red wall.
Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Brogan Bunt Pitch 1 1990. Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell (var) Pitches 2–4 1990.
* Bob Yabbie 22 40m
Good mixed climbing with a solid move through the bulge. Up the slab to a bulge with a bolt. Through this with difficulty and onto the easier slab above to finish on a ledge with a bolt belay.
David (Bobby) Gilbert, Greg Coterill 1988
Screaming Tribesman 22A1 280m
“Bob Yabbie” to the top. It had to be completed by others as the Poms ran out of time to finish this fine project. An excellent climb up through the spectacular orange headwall. 1: 35M (22) As for “Bob Yabbie”. Up the slab to a bulge with a bolt. Through this with difficulty and onto the easier slab above to finish on a ledge with a bolt belay. 2: 25M (21) Directly up past the overlap to a good double Friend belay at 25M. 3: 20M (20) Short interesting pitch weaving up to a tree. 4: 10M (12) An easy 10M pitch leads directly above to a ledge and 2 fixed pins. 5: 40M (18) An interesting and varied pitch. Climb directly up and leftwards to a hole above. Sink in the worlds best #3½ Friend and continue up leftwards past chicken heads to belay at a fixed sling at the base of the orange headwall. 6: 8M Abseil down and leftwards to gain the obvious belay chain. 7: 22M (22) This pitch is what you do the climb for. Leave the belay trending right and up the orange headwall on great jugs and jambs. Follow the obvious weakness to gain the “thank god” ledge and double bolt belay above. 8: 35M (22A1) Don’t go up the bolts leading off the belay, instead, move horizontally right along the ledge to gain a bolt runner on top of the pedestal. Blast up with strenuous and gymnastic moves leading to three aid bolts. Up the corner to finish out leftwards with difficulty at a good ledge and double bolt belay. 9: 40M (16) Move easily left for 5 metres and surmount the short headwall to gain easy 15 pastures above. Continue up the rightwards sloping ramp to belay on top of the pedestal at the thread. 10: 45M (12) Continue to the top with care.
Completed over three days by John Fantini, Phil Georgeff and Dave McGregor. Final complete ascent by John Fantini and Ed Garnett.
* The Misfits 23M1 30m
A spectacular pitch tackling a very steep line through the Screaming Tribesmen orange cave. A variant on the best pitch of Screaming Tribesman but even more awesome and harder. Start at a bomber gear belay just down and right of the DBB atop the 5th pitch of Iron Curtain/ Nitro Express/ Screaming Tribesman. Move right to the weakness in the huge cave. Up with fear and trepidation on jugs and good gear. Bolt on the left under the final roof before moving across right past a fixed hex. Aid (or up very strenuously) through the roof to cave (bolt). Left from small cave aiding on two bolts then free up to the ledge. Either left to the DBB, or better still head right to the top of the pedestal to belay before finishing up Screaming Tribesmen.
Ken Luck, Andrew McAuley 1999
* * Red Heat 22A1 242m
1: 45M (20) Start up an obvious weakness via a rising rightwards sloping break. After 3 metres, traverse leftwards and up to a horizontal weakness to its left end. Continue up on small face holds past a bolt to a small niche and trend horizontally right for 4M and up to the obvious big tree. 2: 45M (21) Continue up the steep wall to the left of the tree on a series of interesting face moves for 10 metres to gain a ramp heading up to the right. Scramble up the ramp until you are directly below a big tree. Now climb the little wall to belay at the tree. 3: 25M (20) Traverse rightwards to the bottom of the corner/groove and follow the leftwards corner to a cave 25 metres above the belay. 4: 50M (20) Head out leftwards from the cave and up to a block with a bomb proof Stopper 16 placement. Trend rightwards and up diagonally past sinker Friend pockets to the big cave 50M above (bolt belay). 5: 12M (12) From the cave traverse out horizontally right and up to another small cave at the foot of the steep groove. 6: 25M (21) Up the steep overhanging groove on fantastic holds to the chimney. Continue up on “thank god” holds to a small ledge on the left side. Move left 2 metres and up to the hanging belay on cliff tower nuts (Hexcentrics—sizes 6, 7, 8 & 9 are useful). 7: 40M (22A1) The “Master Blaster” pitch. Requires 8 long slings to minimise rope drag on the upper headwall. Up the steep groove on unique holds to its end (2 aid points used). Cut loose from the top of the fixed aid stopper and step left with an adrenalin pumped brain to gain a small niche and sinker protection. Continue straight up and then diagonally right past a #4 Friend pocket and a big thread using many interesting moves to gain the horizontal. Note: This climb has a direct finish, see “Jump Master”.
John Fantini, Keith Bell 1990
Old And Grey 18M4 330m
A meandering route on which Don Fletcher made a number of attempts over several years, at first with Richard Lansdowne. The actual ascent used the aid as described below, and a bivvy in the big cave (pitch 7). Starts downstream of the Reason for Man corner, by scrambling leftwards up a ramp to a tree. Original description: 1. 30m (14) Up the tree and slab to a bushy ledge. Traverse right along ledge to a kurrajong tree. 2. 48m (9) Up slightly, then continue along ledge to another kurrajong. 3. 32m (10) Rightwards then up a short, clean wall to a higher ledge. Grovel through trees to the right to a short corner. 4. 18m (17) The real climbing begins (Reason for Man seems to come up here). Up the wall to the next ledge and kurrajongs. 5. 26m (18) Out along the left branch of the tree and up wall to a shallow orange corner. Up rightwards to groove and chossy cave. 6. 16m (17, M3) The key pitch. Aid over the bulge to the right of the cave, then free up slab and left along ramp to a fixed peg (?) in a slight corner. Tension left off the peg and reach around into a small cave. Bolt and thread anchors. 7. 35m (14) Drop down from the cave and move about 4m left. Straight up to the big cave and belay on right edge. 8. 30m (13) Leave the cave on the left and make a rising traverse to the end of the ramp. 9. 20m (13, M4) Step left and up to a short corner. Aid up the wall, moving left past a bolt at the top. Final moves free to a big ledge and move left to belay. 10. 25m (8) Climb the small corner on the left and up the scrubby gully to a thread belay on top of the pedestal. 11. 50m (14) Nicely up the leftward-slanting line to the top. More recent description: Follow up a series of ledges, as for “Reason for Man”. Up the 3rd and 4th pitches of “Reason for Man”. Go up pitch 5 for a little way then left for 8 metres until a small corner/niche is gained. Continue straight up a steep bulge past an old carrot bolt to arrive at a bush ledge. Traverse to the left hand end of the ledge and climb the last 40M to the top. Warning: the 2nd last pitch is quite serious.
Don Fletcher, Ian Brown, April 1976
Scorpion 22 305m
Similar to “Reason for Man” except that it has more of a sting. 1: 50M (22) Climb the strenuous corner to the top of the spike past 3 bolts. There is a chain belay at the top of the spike. 2: 45M (19) You can get to this pitch more easily by using “Old and Grey”. Pleasant climbing up the wall and slab above to a tree belay. 3: 30M (17) Easier slab climbing to the “Green Ledge” and tree belay. 4: 50M (21) Up easily for a few metres to connect into a weakness at the start of the orange rock. Follow a groove and a flake, which provides some interesting moments, to gain the obvious big block seen from the bottom of the gorge. 5: 45M (21) From the block, head right for 3 metres and weave your way through the blankness. Put in some Friends and continue bravely on and upwards, trending left to the belay at a “thank god” break. 6: 45M (19) Move horizontally right to a nose and eventually get some runners when the difficulty eases. Continue upwards over a steep bulge past an old carrot bolt on good, clean, grey rock to finish at a welcome sit down belay. 7: 40M (10) An easy scramble to the top.
John Fantini, Dave Sargent 1985
* * Reason For Man 22 295m
Similar to “Red Supergiant” but harder. 1: 50M (22) Climb the strenuous corner to the top of the spike past 3 bolts. There is a chain belay at the top of the spike. 2: 45M (19) You can get to this pitch more easily by using “Old and Grey”. Pleasant climbing up the wall and slab above to a tree belay. 3: 30M (17) Easier slab climbing to the “Green Ledge” and tree belay. 4: 30M (17) More pleasant steep climbing to the cave belay. Many parties retreat from here. 5: 45M (20) Move right from the cave to a bolt. Now more directly upwards to a ramp and some good stoppers. Continue upwards trending rightwards 17 up a groove on some mediocre rock to finish at a big ledge. Note: this is a serious pitch! 6: 45M (14) Step right from the ledge and move around right above the overhang to another big ledge at 45 metres (loose). 7: 50M (22) Walk right along the ramp to sling a stalactite before launching onto steep ground above. Up ribs and cracks to a hard crank at 35 metres (crux). More easily to the belay.
John Fantini, Tony Barten 1985
Storm Front 21 270m
1: 45M (20) Up the flake, step left and up to the ledge, traverse 3 metres left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right, now on to the belay. 2: 40M (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear. On past one of the twin trees to where the obvious crack splits (left is “Red Heat”). Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts. 3: 40M (20) Step off the belay and follow up the crack. 4: 40M (17) Up the easy crack above. 5: 35M (20) From the left side of the cave/ledge (pitch 6 of “Old and Grey”?) 6: 40M (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay. 7: 30M (10) Continue easily to the top.
Richard Watts, Mark Wilson
Jump Master 23A1 50m
This climb takes the steep orange wall to the left of “Siblings of the Sun”. It starts from the biggest cave at the base of the wall and carries on to the top via another smaller cave directly above. A terrifying abseil leads to the cave. Once there, allow a suitable amount of time to calm down. 1: 20M (23) Up the right wall of the cave past two bolts to a niche and traverse left up through a gap to finish on a good bolt belay. 2: 30M (22A1) Follow the water line up through the steep orange rock above to a niche. Use a point of aid to surmount the obstacle to gain the steep grey rock above. One further aid move on smooth grey rock to achieve easier rock to the top.
Pump Lust 29 25m
The line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave. Joins Jump Master at the top of the first pitch.
George Feig late 90s

Not sure where these two climbs are relative to the others.

* * * Evolution 24 235m
Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of friends and wires and about 14 quickdraws. Start in the rainforest 30m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, its not a taste of what’s to come. P1 (15m, 15) Scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts in the bush under a water run/ chimney thing. Move up a few moves and step left onto a leftward sloping ramp (wires). At the overlap move back right to a DBB. P2 (35m, 22) Follow the bolts to a fixed thread at 12m. Up the slab to a DBB. P3 (40m, 21) Follow the bolts before pulling onto a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this a fair way right (20m) until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, then move right and up the slab to a belay at the tree (small cams behind). P4 (30m, 23) Step right, then up the corner. Reach up to clip a bolt and follow a zillion pockets and bolts to a DBB on top of the spike. P5 (35m, 22) Follow the bolts to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave. A ripsnorter. P6 (30m, 24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left side of the cave (the bolts heading directly up through steep ground are Pump Lust). Fantastic rock, mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2-3 cam near the top. DBB. P7 (50m, 23) (23M1) Up and left past some bolts, pulling on the second to reach a jug. Trend up and left, with difficulty past a small tree on the arête. Go around the corner out of sight. Suck up the exposure and bridge upwards to glory (wires). Belay with care by stringing together several saplings. Pitch 7(b) (40m, 27?) : An alternative final pitch to Evolution. Free the initial aid moves then instead of trending left go straight up and slightly right following a vague scoop, one or two more bolts and some natural gear. Classic, a little runout and hard.
Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley, Greg James 1997. FFA pitch 7(b) Lee Cossey 2000
Aurora 25 235m
As per Evolution to tree belay end pitch 3. P4 (25m, 18) Easily up slab past Evolution and Scorpion to small tree, past this to ring bolt then continue under overhang to double ring belay. P5 (40m, 24) Steep but easy through overhang to thread, step right then up wall with big holds, rings and friends (3.5 essential in bombproof slot). Rest at small stance as the wall becomes slightly off vertical, crux moves past last 3 or 4 rings. DRB belay at stance. P6 (30m, 24) Good pitch, difficult to onsite. Awkward slab to stance below a short overhanging wall, pumpy and technical up the wall then hard moves to gain small ledge, bouldery moves to step left and get established on another short steep wall which leads to ledge. This is the big ledge where you belay for the last pitch of Old and Grey, Scorpion & Storm Front. DRB belay P7 (30m, 25) Great pitch, mostly rings, friends in final crack. Steep slab leads to short steep wall with hard moves, then a short easy slab. Traverse on to steep wall above the overhang and very delicate climbing for several metres to a pocket, (crux). Fine climbing up wall to base of crack, crack and flake for several metres to small ledge. DRB belay. P8 (20m, 19) Easy but nice wall to top. Thread and ring bolt belay.
M Wilson and J Clark 2001
* * * Siblings Of The Sun 26 235m
A multi pitch, multi star classic which blasts straight up the South Wall. 30 man days in the making with multi bolt chain belays on every pitch. 54 protection bolts and 1 peg, a minimum of loose rock and a maximum of climbing pleasure. Start at the big corner to the left of the huge overhangs on the South Wall. 1: 35M (22) Climb the strenuous corner to the top of the spike past 3 bolts. There is a chain belay at the top of the spike. 2: 40M (21) Up past 6 bolts then right past four more to belay chains. 3: 45M (23) A hard start then follow the 12 bolts to the “Green Ledge”. A #4 Friend and wires are handy. 4: 30M (22) From the right hand end of the “Green Ledge”, move right and up to a semi hanging belay left of the orange cave. 10 bolts and a #3 Friend. 5: 30M (21) Right into the cave (#3 Friend and #2 TCU). Up and out to the right. Trend left past 5 bolts and a fixed peg. A #4 Friend at the bottom of the red band then up to the “Red Ledge”. 6: 30M (24) Left to a bolt then up the red wall past lots of natural pro and four more bolts to the “Red Pillar”, very pumpy. 7: 10M (26) “The Porcupine Pitch”. Up the steep wall and over the roof using a multitude of chipped holds and bolts to the “Madonna Ledge”. 8: 15M (18) Very situational! Follow the ramp leading up left past a bolt and then up the wall past four more and a giant thread to gain the top of the gorge. The bolt belay is slightly back from the edge.
Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell Var Sept 1989
Andrews Arete 25 35m
An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Looks like great climbing. The route takes the sharp arête with one bolt 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1.
Steve Monks early 90s
Overture to the Sun 27 75m
no details
* * The Penumbra Variant 19 35m
Was going to be part of “Siblings 0f the Sun” until a better alternative was found. To start scramble right 20M along a vegetated ledge from the start of pitch 3 of “Siblings of the Sun”. Belay off the last tree. 1: 15M (19) Delightful wall climbing and jug hauling past 6 bolts to a chain belay 2: 20M (17) Up the corner past 5 bolts and some wires to the “Green Ledge”.
Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull (Alt), Tony Barten, Sept 1989
* * * Albino 24 240m
A real stonker which also finishes at the top of the gorge. Was supposed to be grade 18 but things sometimes look easier than they actually are! Good clean well protected climbing with chain belays at the end of each pitch. 1: 35M (22) As per “Siblings of the Sun”. 2: 40M (21) As per “Siblings of the Sun”. Then scramble right for 20M along the obvious ledge. 3: 30M (22) Starts at the same point as “The Penumbra Variant”. A long traverse right along the lip of the roof to a hanging belay on chains. A considerable number of bolts augment the natural protection. 4: 20M (22) Left and up from the chains through a small roof to a sloping ledge and belay. 5: 30M (24) Delicate and sustained moves. 8 bolts with a small Friend/TCU between the 3rd and 4th bolts. 6: 50M (22) A rope stretcher up some superb rock. Take all the quickdraws you can find, some wires and friends. Up the wall behind the belay then along the flake. Up a corner trending left and up through a small roof, then right to a comfortable belay ledge. Be careful with the flake. 7: 25M (22) Up the orange wall then turn left at the blackboy and scramble up to the final chains and a well earned rest.
Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell Sept 1990–June 1991
* * Solar Flare 22 150m
Abseil down “Tony’s Rap Line” to a comfortable cave recess at the end of the 3rd long rappel. Start at 2 bolts located near a tree with a red sling attached. The rappel line splits on the 2nd drop. Trend right to gain the 4th anchor. Don’t follow the bolts over to the left as this is another rap line. 1: 45M (22) Start in the comfortable cave recess at the end of the 3rd long rappel. Leave the luxury of the cave recess and head up the little weaknesses that continually appear (sustained). You should arrive at the 3rd rap anchor at about 45 metres (a fine pitch). 2: 10M (15) A short pitch on some mediocre rock to gain the good stuff above. 3: 50M (21) Head up through some good steep rock above, connecting all the weaknesses together. Belay at the 2nd rap anchor. 4: 45M (18) A fine and enjoyable pitch. Move diagonally right to gain a scoop that heads to the top on fine grey rock.
John Fantini, Richard Watts, Keith Bell 1987
Celestial Mechanics 24A1 65m
An incomplete route with good climbing up the obvious corner and arete about 80 metres left of “Polenta Pumper”. No first pitch yet but it is possible to traverse across to the 3rd pitch from the first pitch of “Planet Earth”. 1: 20M (21) From a stance on a slab, cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this (crux) then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner. 2: 20M (24A1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay. 3: 25M (23A1) Up the sharp arete past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Double bolt/chain belay. Rap down.
Mike Peck, Pete Mills, John Stone (var) 1990

The following two climbs take the only break in the big overhangs between Polenta Pumper and the first pitch of Siblings of the Sun. To reach this rising rightwards break follow the south wall downstream, staying next to the wall so that the fallen blocks are on your left. There are 3 bolts on the wall trending slightly right to a block and right trending crack line.

Nosferatu 25 120m
P1 (30m, 24) Up past three bolts to a hard move rightwards and up into the crack. Up to a double bolt belay. P2 (50m, 21) Up and left past bolts to a ledge. Superfluid goes up and right from here, Nosferatu up and left. Climb up the slabs on natural gear, with several long runouts. Belay left of the apex of the steep black wall. P3 (40m, 25) (25M1) Up past a sprinkling of bolts. Hard and runout. Natural belay. To abseil move 15m right to chains on Superfluid.�.
Mike Peck, Tony Barten early 90's
Superfluid 24 120m
P1 (30m, 24) Same as Nosferatu pitch 1. P2 (50m, 22) Up and left past the bolts to a ledge. Up a flake crack for a few moves before trending slightly right up a slab. Follow the bolts over some bulges (crux) with friends also handy in the pockets. Belay at the chains in the orange cave at the base of the steep wall. P3 (40m, 24) Follow the bolts past some great holes, kneebars and no hands rests. A really good pitch. Belay at the chains.�
Julie Styles, Mike Peck, Ken Luck, Kieran Lawton 1998
Polenta Pumper 25 25m
Pumpy, what else? Starts out of the sandy river bed situated at the very right hand end of the South Wall. Up the overhanging wall past a bunch of bolts to a roof with two fixed slings.
Mike Peck 1987 Mike Law-Smith first free ascent 1988
Planet Earth 25 65m
Fearsome and primordial! Starts about 100 metres down stream from the “Efflux Track”, where the gorge closes in, there are two fixed red threads hanging out of the roof of the massive orange cave high on the right wall. Start below the roof, at the overhanging corner about 10 metres right of “Polenta Pumper”. 1: 20M (25) Up the corner past 3 bolts then hard moves left and up onto the slab. More slopes past another bolt lead into a groove (Friends and wires) then up onto a sloping ledge. A ridiculous move out left past the final bolt, then up to a chain belay. 2: 35M (19) A great pitch up fabulous orange rock with heaps of threads. Up to a bolt on the 20 slab above, then up and left to the base of the orange corner. Up this past 2 bolts near the top of the “Bone Cave”. Belay on threads among the carcasses! 3: 10M (18/22) Straight forward but steep! Climb onto the right wall of the cave and up the bulges above, bomb proof threads all the way, the last couple are fixed. A cave, complete with a no hands rest offers sanctuary right at the lip. From here, step out right and up to a double bolt belay and chain. Two raps to the ground.
George Feig, Mike Peck (var), John Stone 1991
Auto Arrest 20 30m
Very, very well protected. This route is useful as an access pitch to “Big Greenie” (the ledge systems that extends for about 150 metres along the South Wall). Start about 20 metres right of “Polenta Pumper”. Fight your way up past some bushes then up a corner system to the right hand end of the ledge.
Tony Barten, Mike Peck 1986

Cooee Point

Continuum 24 40m
no idea where this is
The Comfort Zone 26 40m
Sounds like an alternative start to Continuum.

There are several routes on the wall above and to the left of the old “Cooee Point” lookout. Most routes have ring bolts and double bolt belays, top and bottom.

In The Realm Of The Senses 22 25m
Excellent face climbing in a very exposed position. Look for the double ring bolt belay down from a dead tree about 50 metres right of the old “Cooee Point” lookout. Rap down to a ledge and another double ring bolt belay. Up following the bolts.
Brogan Bunt Tony Barte
The Fat Controller 20 25m
Rap in from a double ring bolt belay about 20 metres right of “In the Realm of the Senses”. Up a crack and then a face (ring bolts). Double ring bolt belay at the base.
Mike Peck
Siren 23 15m
Starts from the gully behind and up from the top of the above two climbs. Double ring bolt belay at the base. Up the face then trend right to the base of the arete. Up the arete to yet more double rings.
Creole Cruiser 22 18m
Rap down to the double bolt belay. Up and left past two bolts to a cave and mega thread runner (double sling runner required). Up to a no hands rest in the next cave then up past two more bolts (crux) to a double bolt belay.
Mike Peck and Laura from MD’s
This Is Hip 22 15m
Good steep climbing on good pockets and jugs. Up right of “Creole Cruiser” (using the same belay) past four bolts to the top.
Mike Peck Wendy Stevenson Phil Dunn

Adams Lookout

There is a small Sydney Rockclimbing Club cliff about 300 metres down from “Adams Lookout”. All the climbs here are easy except for one grade 17 and a 22 with one bolt. The rock is solid and is a great beginners area. [If anybody has details on these climbs, please submit them!]

About halfway back along the “Green Track” and 100 metres down the hill is a great little wall route.

* Feel The Groove 23 15m
An excellent little wall climb. Step off the flake/ledge into a diagonal line leading to the left (nuts and wires). At the top of this move up through the steeper stuff past a bolt and on to the top.
Dave Sargent John Smart 1985