Morning sun

Sea cliff


A secluded but rather limited little sea cliff located in front of the Waverley Cemetery (North Clovelly / South Bronte).


To get there, park at the corner of Boundary and Ocean Sts in Clovelly and follow the popular cliff top track north. Just south of the rubbishy gully in the middle of the cemetery is a large rock platform. A fisherperson's track leads down between the boulders at the southern end of this. You can also scramble south around the rocks from the rubbishy gully. The climbs around Mail Sorter (the obvious roof crack in the centre of the crag) start in the littoral zone, and waves often come rushing in under the huge block, with little warning. Take care if you're climbing here. There is also a bit of bouldering to be had on the huge boulders around the base of the southern descent route.

Climbs described left to right facing the cliff (south to north).

Flexitime 25 25m
7m left of MS on small boulder. 1. 18m (25). Traverse right to small cave. Over roof then continue traversing right to corner. Up this then over roof (manky BB). 2. 7m. Delicate moves lead left and up.
Mikl Law 1980's
* * * Mail Sorter 23 20m
Cool roof crack. Starting just right of the obvious roof crack. Up and left to crack then out.
Greg Child 1980s
* * Having Babies 24 18m
Head halfway out the roof of MS, then launch right out the roof then continue up (dodgy BRs).
Mikl Law 1980's
Japanese Route 14 12m
The scrappy corner right of MS.
Mike Law 1980's
Men Only 22 20m
As for JR to roof, then traverse left along the lip (clipping manky BRs on HB).
Mikl Law 1980's
Not Wot It Seams 15 12m
Just right of JR, behind the huge block. Climb steep wall past rotten BR, move left then up the face above (manky BR). Single BB in the middle of the rock platform, with small cams right near the edge.
Mikl Law 1980's
* * Wrinkle City 23 15m
About 10m right of NWIS, just left of arete. Onto wall, veer slightly right to rooves then a hard move past a rotten BR. Three manky BBs for the belay.
Mikl Law 1980's
* Poste Haste 21 18m
As for WC up to break at 4m, traverse right to arete then up, moving around the arete near the top. Manky BBs at the top.
Mikl Law 1980's
Post Haste Direct Start 23 18m
The arete right of PH.
Mikl Law 1980's
* Hook, Line and G String 23 18m
On boulder 10m right of PHDS. Batman to the holds below the first BR, then up through rooves and up nice wall above. Five manky BRs in all.
Mikl Stacey 1990's

The following two climbs are located on the north facing walls on the southern side of the wide rubbishy gully.

Mal's Corner 15 10m
Recessed corner 10m right of HLaGS. Up the corner, traverse right around roof then up wall above. Often wet.
Mal Johnson 1980's
Cracksville 15 10m
3m right of MC. Up the lovely thin crack in orange rock then continue up the wall above.
Mikl Law 1980's

The following climb is located just north of the gully.

A 13 12m
Just past the arete on the northern side of the rubbishy gully. Up over the obvious wind blown cave then up the (sometimes damp) wall above. Two good BBs for the belay. Top rope only.