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Late afternoon |
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IntroductionLove the Dams Cliffs? You'll also like this! A lovely section of shady orange rock tucked away in a scenic bend of the Georges River with great swimming right below the cliff. All routes are well equipped with ringbolts and lower-offs. Stick-clipping the first bolt is advised on all routes. The cliff faces south west, so gets late afternoon sun (around 4pm in summer). A faint track leads down to the swimming from below the route Makers Mark.<br/><br/>All routes have lower-offs. You can also walk easily to the top of the cliff to setup topropes off large trees. |
HistoryDiscovered by Monty & Matt on yet another kayak trip. An old telegraph pole, small cemented rock pool and various bits of ironmongery below the crag are evidence of previous human occupation in decades past. The routes were all bolted and climbed by Neil Monteith & Jeff Crass over a few busy weeks of unemployment and retirement. |
AccessDrive to 96 Old Kent Rd, Kentlyn.<br/><br/>Park on bush side of road next to silver fence. Walk around left end of fence and follow overgrown fireroad downhill for 50m to gully, cross it and continue along vague road with large fence and Bubbas house on the the right for another 50m until better defined fireroad heads down into the bush on the left.<br/><br/>Follow the fireroad downhill for a few hundred metres, ignoring minor side tracks, until a large dirtbike jump appears on the left. Walk past this and down to major intersection with yellow street sign.<br/><br/>Walk right along fireroad for 20m and look for rock cairns and blue tape markers that show the start of the climbers track. Follow cairns and blue tape along flat ground then steeply down rocky hillside to crag. It is right above the large swimming hole. |
| Hooch | 18 | 10m | |||
| Worst route at the crag. Overhung little prow on far right of cliff. Scramble onto ledge, then swing up undercut start. Anchor bolts are a tricky clip. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 2015 | |||||
| * | Jack Daniels | 17 | 10m | ||
| Best place to warm up. Tricky mantle to start then up via blobs and horizontal jugs to anchors under rooflet. Take care with the big undercling at the 2nd bolt. | |||||
| Jeff Crass & Neil Monteith, 30/01/2015 | |||||
| Black Dirt Bourbon Project | 10m | ||||
| Right of Bulleit. Crimpy. | |||||
| * * | Bulleit | 21 | 13m | ||
| Crag classic. 2nd of the major orange streaks starting in front of a small mutli-trunked tree. Easy start then long move off sidepull to gain rail. Up and left on crimps then better holds but pumpy moves up and back right through rooflet at top. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 18/01/2015 | |||||
| * * | Woodstock | 23 | 13m | ||
| The most sustained route at the crag. Starts just right of large grass-tree growing against the cliff base, in the middle of the cliff. Fantastic orange rock with a tough move at the fourth bolt. Hands on top of the cliff for the full tick. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 19/01/2015 | |||||
| * * * | Bundy | 24 | 14m | ||
| Left of Woodstock. Sustained pumpy slopes on sweet stone. Up there with the best at the crag if it stays clean. | |||||
| Jason Lammers, 2015 | |||||
| Jim Bean | 24 | 12m | |||
| Left trending line with hard thin crux. Finishes back right with rad little roof flake. 4th bolt is hard to clip until it's at your chest. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 19/01/2015 | |||||
| * | Kentucky Straight | 23 | 12m | ||
| Easy start for a few bolts then pinchy underclings through white wall to rooflet. Powerful undercling through this and finish rightwards over final rooflet with victory jugs just above the anchor bolts. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 30/01/2015 | |||||
| Wild Turkey | 20 | 12m | |||
| More great rock and steep climbing! Bouldery wall to start then reachy jugs and out past nest to steep exciting finish and rap chain. The 'official' finish hold is just right of the bolt on the rap chain. The large pigeon (?) nest near the top of this route is amazingly constructed so please don't touch it and if you see any sort of bird present bail off immediately. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, Jeff Crass & Jo the American, 19/01/2015 | |||||
| * | Devil's Cut | 20 | 13m | ||
| Tricky start then into the mini corner for a metre. Out right and up left side of the scoop, finishing at anchors just left of amazing birds nest (take care not to touch the nest). | |||||
| Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2015 | |||||
| * * | Southern Comfort | 19 | 11m | ||
| Steep! And one of the best routes at the crag. Climbs the right edge of the cave, starting a few metres right of gumtree growing against cliff on left side of crag. Bouldery start to gain shelf then up and right through steepness. Stay right of last bolt for maximum fun, quality and pump! Climbing right and past the lower-off anchors to the top of the cliff is grade 22. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 18/01/2015 | |||||
| * | Moonshine | 21 | 11m | ||
| A bit rough. Starts just right of tree growing against cliff. Long move to start then easily to ledge. Swing through steepness and up into jug encrusted cave. Finish right to clip single chain lower-off. | |||||
| Neil Monteith, 30/01/2015 | |||||
| * | Maker's Mark | 22 | 12m | ||
| Far left route, starting on left side of tree growing against cliff. Juggy wall to ledge, clip high bolt, then biiiiig reach through bulge to jugs. Finish up flake and bouldery square arete to ledge and lower-off. | |||||
| Neil Monteith & Jeff Crass, 30/01/2015 | |||||