Bonnet Bay

1 minute

Shady all day



One of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best grade 24 and 27 sport routes in Sydney, but all grades are catered for. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area, and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. It faces south and is an ice box in winter. There has been much rebolting in recent years. Please keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.


The crag is located near 188 Washington Drive, Bonnet Bay. From the intersection between Washington Drive and Harrison Ave, walk back up Washington Drive for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Hike up the track for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. Climbs are described from left to right as you face the cliff.

Left Wall

Stuck in the City 22 8m
The far left arete on subtle sloping pockets. Top-out on blob holds to tree belay - or reverse mantle and lower-off single large bolt.
Neil Monteith, 10/05/2015
Overkilled 18 10m
The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.
Ed Rutherford?
* Stopping Short 18 10m
Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly U-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.
Ed Rutherford?
Mildly Bent 17 11m
Another slabby wall with three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.
Ed Rutherford?
The Easy Root 15 10m
Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

Middle Wall

Suburban Crack Fiend 16 6m
Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.
Premature Evacuation 16 8m
Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts and lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.
Ed Rutherford?
Tiptoe Ridge 12 12m
Was once a good easy route, but now a lovely vine grows down the top crack and a ringtail possom lives in a pocket. Stay off. Starts just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.
The Chimney 15 12m
Stem up the gap between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Lower-off anchor high up on the left.
Gay Welders Union 2011

First ascent details for the following three excellent climbs are unknown so I have made up names for them.

* * * Kim 21 10m
The left arete on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.
Graham Fairbairn and mates, early 80s
* * * Mowgli 18 10m
The featured wall right of Kim with three ringbolts. Lower-off at top.
Graham Fairbairn and mates, early 80s
* The Jungle Book 15 9m
Up to first bolt of Mowgli then step right to ledge then straight up past two ringbolts. Shares loweroff with Mowgli.
FA Unknown
The Right Edge 12 10m
The right arete of this wall, right of a tree. Fun juggy climbing up a thin rock ridge. Not much protection. Soloed on first ascent.
Gay Welders Union (solo) 2011

Right Wall

The first few routes are up and left behind the trees.

* * Slapperette 24 10m
Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.
Mikl 2011
* * * Glorious Manglervision 19 13m
Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Funky climbing that leaves you in tangles. Recently retro-bolted. A brush-tailed possum sometimes lives beneath the anchors, don't scare him too much!
Mike Law 1980s
* * Between the Lines 23 16m
Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. To stay on route no stepping on right side of wide crack. If you step over the line then it's probably 22.
Neil Monteith 2010
* * Bruised and Scratched 20 15m
A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to anchors. Retro-bolted
Mike Law 1980s
* * * Lean Beef 24 15m
Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB lower off. Big reaches or dynos. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.
Mike Law 1990s
* * * Heavy Haulage 27 15m
Start as for Lean Beef, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct to DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to Lean Beef lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!
Giles Bradbury and Mike Law 1990s
* Offalwidth 18 16m
Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.
* * A1 22 15m
Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out of the crack for the real tick. DBB lower off up high near the trees.
* Aardvark 19 10m
The rooflet and steep wall to the right of A1 and left of the scoopy cave. U-bolts and carrots. Heave-ho over the easy overhang then up the wall, jugs on right help or eliminate them for a harder variant.
Burning Shells 17 14m
Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

Far Right Wall

Climb at Own Risk 16 12m
Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to DBB.
Ian and Matt 2001
Lumberjack 17 12m
Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. Steeply over bulge to flake then traverse left onto face to top. 4 U-bolts and giant U-bolt lower-off.
Neil Monteith 2010
Entrenched 12 15m
Dirty chimney right of Lumberjack. Top out and walk to tree belay back from cliff edge.
Matthew Robbins, 9.8.2015