Bonnet Bay

	1 minute
	Shady all day
	Great

Introduction

One of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best grade 24 and 27 sport routes in Sydney, but all grades are catered for. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area, and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. It faces south and is an ice box in winter. There has been much rebolting in recent years. Please keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.

Access

The crag is located near 188 Washington Drive, Bonnet Bay. From the intersection between Washington Drive and Harrison Ave, walk back up Washington Drive for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Hike up the track for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. Climbs are described from left to right as you face the cliff.

Left Wall

Stuck in the City	22	8m
The far left arete on subtle sloping pockets. Top-out on blob holds to tree belay - or reverse mantle and lower-off single large bolt.
Neil Monteith, 10/05/2015

Overkilled	18	10m
The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.
Ed Rutherford?

*	Stopping Short	18	10m
	Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly U-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.
	Ed Rutherford?

Mildly Bent	17	11m
Another slabby wall with three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.
Ed Rutherford?

The Easy Root	15	10m
Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

Middle Wall

Suburban Crack Fiend	16	6m
Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

Premature Evacuation	16	8m
Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts and lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.
Ed Rutherford?

Tiptoe Ridge	12	12m
Was once a good easy route, but now a lovely vine grows down the top crack and a ringtail possom lives in a pocket. Stay off. Starts just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

The Chimney	15	12m
Stem up the gap between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Lower-off anchor high up on the left.
Gay Welders Union 2011

First ascent details for the following three excellent climbs are unknown so I have made up names for them.

* * *	Kim	21	10m
	The left arete on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.
	Graham Fairbairn and mates, early 80s

* * *	Mowgli	18	10m
	The featured wall right of Kim with three ringbolts. Lower-off at top.
	Graham Fairbairn and mates, early 80s

*	The Jungle Book	15	9m
	Up to first bolt of Mowgli then step right to ledge then straight up past two ringbolts. Shares loweroff with Mowgli.
	FA Unknown

The Right Edge	12	10m
The right arete of this wall, right of a tree. Fun juggy climbing up a thin rock ridge. Not much protection. Soloed on first ascent.
Gay Welders Union (solo) 2011

Right Wall

The first few routes are up and left behind the trees.

* *	Slapperette	24	10m
	Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.
	Mikl 2011

* * *	Glorious Manglervision	19	13m
	Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Funky climbing that leaves you in tangles. Recently retro-bolted. A brush-tailed possum sometimes lives beneath the anchors, don't scare him too much!
	Mike Law 1980s

* *	Between the Lines	23	16m
	Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. To stay on route no stepping on right side of wide crack. If you step over the line then it's probably 22.
	Neil Monteith 2010

* *	Bruised and Scratched	20	15m
	A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to anchors. Retro-bolted
	Mike Law 1980s

* * *	Lean Beef	24	15m
	Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB lower off. Big reaches or dynos. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.
	Mike Law 1990s

* * *	Heavy Haulage	27	15m
	Start as for Lean Beef, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct to DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to Lean Beef lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!
	Giles Bradbury and Mike Law 1990s

*	Offalwidth	18	16m
	Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

* *	A1	22	15m
	Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out of the crack for the real tick. DBB lower off up high near the trees.
	?

*	Aardvark	19	10m
	The rooflet and steep wall to the right of A1 and left of the scoopy cave. U-bolts and carrots. Heave-ho over the easy overhang then up the wall, jugs on right help or eliminate them for a harder variant.

Burning Shells	17	14m
Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

Far Right Wall

Climb at Own Risk	16	12m
Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to DBB.
Ian and Matt 2001

Lumberjack	17	12m
Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. Steeply over bulge to flake then traverse left onto face to top. 4 U-bolts and giant U-bolt lower-off.
Neil Monteith 2010

Entrenched	12	15m
Dirty chimney right of Lumberjack. Top out and walk to tree belay back from cliff edge.
Matthew Robbins, 9.8.2015