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Full sun from early morning. Routes on the western end of the face receive the sun later in the morning. |
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IntroductionThe pre-eminent peak, both for it's sheer enormity, sculpturing and more top-class routes than both Belougery and Crater Bluff together. This cliff possibly outclasses any other large trachyte faces in the southern hemisphere. It therefore demands some respect for time, a good climbing partner and wise gear-selection in order that the better routes be enjoyed fully. Retreat maybe problematical from some routes e.g. Elijah and Aladinsane. |
AccessMost people approach from Nuada Saddle. North east of the camp ground a cairned path contours around and dips around some rocky ridges, finally emerging onto a giant scree slope at the east end of the face. It's worth sussing out the access before an early start on your chosen mega climb. From Balor hut this approach takes around 45 minutes to an hour. From camp Pincham the fastest approach to Bluff Mt is by taking the West Spirey Creek track to Ogma Saddle. Leave the trail at the junction heading south east. Contour across Bluff Creek and head for the obvious scree slope beneath Stonewall Jackson. This approach involves some scrub bashing but it is possible to be roped up and climbing in just over an hour. To descend, follow the tourist walking track from the summit back to Nuada Saddle. |
[pic] The main face of Bluff Mountain. We need to mark in Bastion Buttress, Stonewall Jackson, Flight of the Pheonix, Elijah and Aladinsane.
| North West Gully | 10 | 189m | |||
| A bit scrappy - a piker's Sunday picnic! The line of a small waterway leading up left on the left-hand side of the eastern face. 1. 30m. General leftward scramble. 2. 33m. To small ledge benrath a small wall in a gully. 3. 24m. Right then up to a crack. Up it to belay on left. 4. 30m. Up gully until blocked by a small chimney. Go 2m to the right, then left to large ledge around corner. 5. 36m. General scramble. 6. 36m. Anywhere! Pleasant slabs. | |||||
| C Ivin/B. Montgomery/P. Griffiths 1960 | |||||
| * * | Bastion Buttress | 12 | 240m | ||
| An alpine-style warm-up - easy classic. Start just right of grey buttress to the left of Stonewall Jackson. 1-2. 60m (crux). Climb slab then left via easiest line across slabby blocks to arete. Overhang relents to the left of grey buttress. 3-8. 180m. Up and rightwards towards buttress. The rock looks steep and rotten but surprisingly offers beautiful climbing of a consistent grade of about ten! Good protection abounds. From crest of the ridge all pitches tend slightly rightwards. | |||||
| Keith Bell/Greg Mortimer Dec' 1972 | |||||
| Rim-fire | 17 | 480m | |||
| Girdle traverse of Bluff Mountain from BB to Ginsberg. Start as for BB. 1-2. 90m. Follow BB to sloping ledge on prow. 3. 10m. Traverse R across slab to corner. 4. 35m. Traverse R, comer, then R to belay. just short of Stonewall Jackson. 5. Down climb crack to stance in SJ, near lone grass-tree. 6. 35m. R to sickle-shaped comer. 7. 35m. Corner, then R on face to large rock on ledge. 8. 25m. R, then R and up across orange rock to good ledge. 9. Traverse R to start of pitch 12 on Elijah. 10. 35m. R and up to ledge. 11. 30m. Traverse R. 12. 30m. R across void. 13. 15m. Round buttress to good ledge at base of gully. 14-15. 90m. Finish up Ginsberg. | |||||
| Greg Mortimer, Keith Bell (alt) 76 | |||||
| Rim-fire Variant | 17M1 | 500m | |||
| Inferior to original. 1-9. As for Rim-fire. 10-16. Down and along Elijah's traverse. Continue traversing R at this level for about one pitch, then lower off fixed nut to easy ledges. Along these to join Ginsberg. Finishup Ginsberg or Neruda. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood 1-77 | |||||
| Corinth | 21 | 235m | |||
| Start between Bastion Buttress and Over and Out. 1. 50m Straight up to prominent slab which has a left facing corner on the right. Up through corner directly above the slab. Belay on ledge. 2. 40m Traverse diagonally right for 25m until at the base of a prominent V. Climb the corner which forms the left branch of the V. Straight up face to ledge. RP and bolt. 3. 25m (crux) Start left of piton, up to rail, traverse right, bolt, to corner. Up corner then left onto ledge, bolt, up past bolt to gain ledge. Traverse diagonally left to base of prominent corner. 4. 25m Up steep corner to ledge. Up to sloping ledge at base of corner. 5. 55m Up corner until possible to traverse right for 10m. Up through roof and corner to easier ground. 6. 40m Up easily. | |||||
| Peter Grezl, Peter Kuczera 15/9/2012 | |||||
| Over and Out | 21 | 250m | |||
| Starts 15 m L of Stonewall Jackson. 1. 45m. Up groove to R-leading ramps. Lower ramp for 10m, then ramp above to small roof. Past this on R; lower then upper ramp to flake. 2. 35m. Ramp for 15m, then up past ledges to small corner below flake-crack. 3. 20m. Flake, past bulge to ledges. 4. 35m. Crack on R; L to cracks. Up to BB. 5. 30m. Up to bush, then R along lip of SJ roof. Groove. 6. 45m. Up R to groove on L. Groove, then R past tree. 7. 40m. Up L, then easily to L-leading groove. Up. | |||||
| Lucas Trihey, Keith Bell (alt) 25-3-89 | |||||
| Stonewall Jackson | 20 | 209m | |||
| The most obvious crack-corner line to a big roof at half height. Start in easy angled groove to the right of the main corner. 1. 38m. Up groove then more steeply above, trending right for a little then delicately left to a large ledge. 2. 38m. Up to small ledge below shallow black recess. Up peg, then into easier corner. Two further pegs in steeper section lead to a fir tree. 3. 15m. Easily left to corner. Up it and left to ledge. Peg. 4. 15m. Up and traverse to and up right wall of corner. Peg. 5. 22m. Watch slick and loose blocks in corner. Pegs. Traverse left 2m to below small corner. Good bivi-site on left. 6. 27m. Up corner, over bulge then keep puffing to reach peg and bolt together. Slight stance. 7. 27m. Traverse right, pegs then after 15m diagonally right over grey rock to rock shelf. Peg. 8. 24m. Small corner, peg. Chimney corner leads to bolt below where things steepen. 9. 21m (Crux). Over bush and bulge, small roof and loose blocks. Up squeeze chimney and final bulge. Small ledge above dead tree. 10. 18m. Up below bulge 4m then left along shelf below smooth over-hung wall, around nose then right to tree. 11. 21m. Chimney gully. 12. 24m. Right-hand side of chimney-cum-gully. | |||||
| John Ewbank/Bryden Allen Oct' 1969 FFA: Kim Carrigan/lan Lewis Feb' 1974 | |||||
| Rebel Tour | 17 | 150m | |||
| Variant to SJ, avoiding poor rock below roof. 1-2. 76m. As for SJ. 3. 24m. Wall, then diagonally R to large ledge below roof. 4. 45m. L-leading crack past grass-tree to L side of roof. Roof, then R to stance L of groove. 5. 5m. Wall to ledge at end of roof on SJ. Finish up SJ. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 9-9-83 | |||||
| Blade-runner | 20 | 255m | |||
| Steep; exposed. 1-3. 100m. As for RT. 4. 40m. Up and slightly R to surmount sickle-shaped overhang, then up R to belay. 5. 40m. Wall, staying close to arete. 6. 35m. Slab on R of buttress to steepening, then L to front of buttress. Up, then swing L to ledge. Up to belay ledge. 7. 40m. Slab on R or buttress on L. | |||||
| Keith Bell, John Fantini (alt) 30-12-87 | |||||
| * | London's Dockyard | 19 | 300m | ||
| Wall at half-height is one of the best pitches on Bluff Mountain. Start as for SJ. 1-8. Follow SJ until about pitch three. Move R to ledge below sickle-shaped roof. Continue R until below R end of roof, then R from corner. Wall above. | |||||
| Keith Lockwood, John Bowen 76 | |||||
| Escalade | 19 | 230m | |||
| This route apparently climbs out of LD, leaving that route at wall on pitch five (although there seems to be some confusion over exactly where LD goes in the upper pitches). Approach by way of SJ. 1-3. 110m. As for RT. 4. 10m. Traverse R along ledges to blocks in corner. 5. 30m. Corner, then R round block on to main face. Now slightly L up wall to small tree. 6. 30m. Traverse R to end of ledge, then up to BB in corner below bulge. 7. 30m. Move L, then bulge. 8. 20m. Easily up. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 21-1-82 | |||||
| Poor Man's Flight | 20 | 300m | |||
| Approach by way of SJ. 1-3. 110m. As for RT. 4. 45m. Descend to traverse-line, then R along this. Now crack formed by large blocks; step across blocks, then R to stance. 5. 35m. Vague corner, staying R of brown rock. Exit L, then L and up to stance. 6. 40m. Groove to ledge 5 m below roofs. 7. 40m. Traverse L, then wall to L of arete. Now R to groove above overhang. Groove, then R under bulges. 8. 30m. Up, then L into final gully of Flight of the Phoenix. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 10-9-83 | |||||
| Kante Betrachtugn | 20 | 300m | |||
| Start at foot of large tree just L of prominent over-hung arete between SJ and Flight of the Phoenix. 1. 40m. Up and R awkwardly to bass of prominent orange dihedral. Up and slightly L past BR, then up L round nose to easier ground. 2-6. Continue up past belay ledges on good rock, sparse pro. | |||||
| Roark Muhlen-Schulte, Tony Nemec Easter 85 | |||||
| * * * | Flight Of The Phoenix | 18 | 330m | ||
| The classic of the mountain, if not all of Australia! Takes the distinctive orange 'wing' right of the big corner of SJ. Starts about 20m right of SJ corner. You are aiming for the ledge with trees two pitches up. Currently there is a set of chains half way up which will give you an idea of where you want to be heading for the first pitch. 1. 50m. Up and slightly right and up to belay left of the loose looking blocks that lead away right. A surprisingly technical pitch. 2. 20m (crux). Directly up to a big block and ledge with slings. Quite sustained with much interest. (It is possible to avoid the ledge and downclimb/abseil by traversing far right at about grade 19, to join pitch 4. However, this avoids the best climbing!) 3. 15m. Descend (advise backrope or abseil) to belay at a point from where it is reasonable to begin an upward traverse under roofs. 4. 50m. Up right on sloping ledges on the light coloured clean rock. Stay below the orange wing finding the best path. Brilliant exposed climbing. 5. 50m. Through blocks and more, slightly right, natural belay. 6. 50m. Roofs appear up right. Begin coming back left but keep steeply on up until the summit leading gully is encountered. 7. 90m. Exit gully to top. | |||||
| Keith Bell/Ray Lassman, about 1974 | |||||
| Flight of the Phoenix Variant Finish | 16 | 90m | |||
| 7a-8a. Buttress R of exit gully. | |||||
| Mike Law, Chris Baxter 23-5-82 | |||||
| Xoanon | 22 | 110m | |||
| Possibly the first three pitches of Cracked Pane. Start 50 m R of SJ. 1. 35m. Prominent weakness to headwall, cracks. Move R to corner, then wide crackto stance. 2. 35m. Prominent corner tending R to top of ramp. Up to blocks below groove. 3. 40m. Steep wall and groove, then L to join FP. Belay on ledge level with top of diagonal overhang. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 19-11-83 | |||||
| Cracked Pane | 24 | 300m | |||
| Climbs up to and across FP, joining LD to finish. | |||||
| Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, Mark Moorhead 25-5-82 | |||||
| Ahab | 19 | 360m | |||
| Tackles arete between FP and Elijah. Start near Xoanon. 1. 40m. Up for 15 m, then R along ramp. 2. 25m. Up, then R over block to stance. 3. 30m. Wall above through bulges, then L to tree. 4. 35m. Groove, then L and up slab. At headwall, traverse R along ramp. 5. 35m. L, then bulge to vague groove. Groove to belay on L. 6. 30m. R, then L up groove until possible to move R towards arete. 7. 35m. Wall to groove above overhang. Groove, then wall. 8. 35m. R across buttress, then up to big ledge. Now L, through bulge, up wall to BB at top of Elijah pitch 12. 9-11. 95m. As for Elijah. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 22-1-82 | |||||
| Lusty's | 21 | 300m | |||
| Start just R of arete between FP and Elijah. Climb arete, mainly on its R. Sustained. | |||||
| Mike Law, Mark Moorhead 26-5-82 | |||||
| * | Elijah | 17 | 358m | ||
| Not exactly beginners' stuff. The highest part of the face is contained in two main buttresses. The climb starts up rock which to begin with is easy angled and therefore hard to find and follow. The major overhangs halfwav up are avoided by traversing to the left buttress. 1. 36m. Up easy angled rock, going left past a small tree to a bolt in a chimney type gully. 2. 15m. Up chimney, right to bolt. 3. 30m. Up and left, thread, up right and so to big ledge. Walk right, up and easily left to good peg. 4. 18m. Left and up, somewhat delicate. Up, bolt, right to bolt. 5. 4m. Up to big ledge and bolt. 6. 21m. Left and up, continue left to peg. Left and beneath overhang to boit. 7. 18m. Up, big bolt runner, left, piton runner. Continue delicately left and up to poor bolt belay. 8. 18m. Tricky move up right to bolt. Delicately left to bolt. Up overhang to bolt. 9. 12m. Left and up. Bolt. 10. 30m. Down, along and up to a good peg. Hand traverse left, glorious exposure, then up. Continue ieft and up to bolt. One is now on the left buttress with retreat a possible problem. 11. 24m. Easily ieft and up to bolt on ledge. Up crack with more difficulty to a big ledge and bolt. 12. 27m (crux). Right and up. Delicately left, up to peg then easily to bolt. Poor protection. 13. 21m. Right and up onto ledge, peg. Up with more giorious exposure! Bad peg. 14. 24m. Right, then onto easy angled rock. 15. 60m. Easiiy to top. | |||||
| Bryden Allen/John Ewbank May 1964 | |||||
| Trouser Tracks | 21 | 315m | |||
| Some loose rock and poor pro in upper secton. Start at bolt for Elijah. 1. 50m. Up R to Elijah's second belay. 2. 50m. Up L to buttress between two major grooves. Flake, then L groove to niche below protruding block. 3. 15m. Up to ledge. 4. 50m. Crack through orange wall, then continue L through break in overhang. Now R, then up steeply to stance. 5. 50m. R, then back L to vague groove. Groove through steep rock to ledge. 6. 50m. Groove. 7. 50m. Up easily. | |||||
| Keith Bell, John Fantini 4-10-87 | |||||
| Abraham | 20 | 330m | |||
| Start as for Elijah. 1-8. Up, following vague weaknesses, to summit overhangs (possibly as for TT), then traverse R to join Ginsberg. | |||||
| Lucas Trihey, John Smoothy (alt) 87 | |||||
| * | Aladinsane | 19 | 320m | ||
| A really class route. Follows a large corner system up between Eiijah and Ginsberg. START: About 15 metres right of the bolt start of Elijah at a rightward leaning groove. 1. 50m. Follow the series of grooves by zig-zagging until the slab steepens. Up over the bulge then left to a sloping ledge. 2. 50m. Straight up a steep wall. slightly left then up to a large ledge. A deligntful easy angled corner then leads up diagonally right. Follow this to a good tree. 3. 30m. Up the corner for about 5m then follow a traverse line about 15m around an arete, up and across left to belay on a loose looking block. 4. 15m. Straight up over buiges (crux), past the fixed peg to a bolt on a snattered ledge. 5. 50m. Move one metre right to a small corner. Up this for Bm to a roof. Traverse right and slightly down, past a wide crack, thence continue up and right. 6. 25m. Continue up and right, past the bolt on Ginsberg then up into the guily as for Ginsberg. 7-9. 100m. Easily! | |||||
| Kim Carrigan/Nat Nicholas 1974 | |||||
| Aladinsane Direct Finish | 22 | 125m | |||
| Starts out of Aladinsane at large block with poor BB. 1. 45m. Up, then R through bulge, then up L towards yellow-orange rock. Up L through bulges to poor stance. Poor rock and pro. 2. 45m. Wall above, then slightly R through bulges. Traverse L along ledges 8 m below summit roofs and L of prominent prow. 3. 35m. Up wall easily. An earlier Direct Finish was apparently done by persons unknown in late 70's/early 80's. | |||||
| John Fantini, Keith Bell (alt) 5-4-91 | |||||
| Captain Blood | 21 | 350m | |||
| 1-2. As for Aladinsane. 3. Up L-most of three big comers. 4. Rising traverse L over loose-looking 'splatter' of stones on wall beneath overhang. Up to SHB at lip of overhang. 5. Up L for 15 m, then back R. 6. Up steeply. 7. Up. | |||||
| Evan Bieske, Chris Frost 7-87 | |||||
| * | Ginsberg | 19 | 362m | ||
| Another really good and exposed route. Start about 30m right of Aladinsane, 15m right of nose of rib. Some old belay bolts have been replaced 2010. 1. 27m. Up crack then chimney to a small stance in a recess. 2. 36m. Move right from the recess then over a bulge and a wall to reach a ledge. Traverse left to a belay beneath a slanting corner. 3. 36m. Easily left, then follow a rightward slanting corner to reach another recess 4. 21m. Move right and cross various ribs until a big scar is seen. (Don't go right round main rib.) Pleasant climbing straight up leads to a belay next to a 'beer barrel'. ''A truly glorious pitch'' - Noddy. (An alternative pitch, directly from belay on pitch three to groove/roof, has been done at grade 20 by Bruce Cameron and Frank Moon.) 5. 36m. Up and over the beer barrel then climb left to below a very loose steep corner. Up this to an exposed stance and bolt anchor, 6. 6m. Technical climbing leads to a good ledge. 7. 36m. Climb straight up the wall for about 12 metres to a small ledge. Move right then up short corner to roofs (Crux). Then absolutely superb climbing leads one out across the slab rightwards to reach a small roof. Over this then continue straight up wall and corner to next roof. Move left to a good stance on a little tree. 8. 30m. Up slightly left, thence diagonally right to a bolt anchor on a small ledge. 9. 24m. Diagonally right into a gully then up. 10. Up juggy wall to top. | |||||
| Bryden Allen/John Ewbank April 1969 FFA: Keith Lockwood/Peter Morris Nov' 1975 | |||||
| * * | Neruda | 18 | 338m | ||
| Classic - one of the best routes on Bluff Mountain. 1-4. 118m. As for Ginsberg. 5. 25m. From 'beer-barrel-shaped block' step L, then up corner for 11m. Now, up R to rejoin corner below large overhangs. Traverse below small roof to grey wall. 6. 20m. Traverse R to arete, then corner to stance. 7. 32m. Corner for 12m, then R to poor BR. Up to roof, then R to small ledge. 8. 25m. R to comer system, then up to ledge on R. 9. 40m. Corner, then L up headwall. Now traverse 5 m R to small corner. R up this to headwall. 10. 30m. R-trending corners. 11. 48m. Slab up L through headwall, then corner and walls. | |||||
| Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve 10-9-77 | |||||
| Neruda Direct | 19 | 320m | |||
| Start R of original start. Directly up to join Neruda shorlly before massive gully/corner at half-height. Follow Neruda briefly, then climb directly up L of original route. | |||||
| Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter 26-5-82 | |||||
| For Starters | 23 | 320m | |||
| Takes the striking arete R of Ginsberg and follows it all the way. | |||||
| Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead 23-5-82 | |||||
| Gettysberg Address | 21 | 320m | |||
| Probably largely a repeat of FS. Start just R of prominent buttress R of Ginsberg, 1-8. Steep first pitch. Stay on arete all the way, crossing Ginsberg and other routes where they each cross arete. | |||||
| Lucas Trihey, Chris Jackson Easter 88 | |||||
| Baal | 20 | 300m | |||
| Takes a corner, presumably the major one, be-tween Ginsberg and Ulysses. No further details. | |||||
| Kevin Pearl, Fred From c 80 | |||||
| * * | Ulysses | 19 | 310m | ||
| Takes the next corner system right of Ginsberg. A tremendous route. Sustained and steep. Start on R end of bushy ledge below prominent flake-crack, gained by scrambling up bushy slabs R of Ginsberg buttress. 1. 10m. Up R-slanting flakes to ledge with block. 2. 45m. Wall, tending slightly R. Crack and groove through bulge to stance directly above start of climb. 3. 15m. Ramp L to small cave below bulge. 4. 35m. Down L, then up through bulge to ledge. Wall, moving Latoverhangs, to steepgroove. Poor BB. 5. 25m. Groove, then L through steep wall. PB. 6. 30m. Up L for 15m; traverse L to arete. Arete, past tree to stance. 7. 10m. Chimney. 8. 35m. Crack, then up L across wall to arete. Through bulge to chimney. 9. 35m. Crack to stance on arete. Bulges to crack on L. Up. | |||||
| Keith Bell/Ray Lassman, about 1974 | |||||
| Ulysses Direct Start | 21 | 70m | |||
| Starts 15m L of Ulysses at groove. 1. 20m. Groove to slabby area below steepening. 2. 35m. Up, then R round headwall. Up and L to ledge. 3. 15m. Up steeply to ledge, with crux of Ulysses above. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 11-9-83 | |||||
| Ulysses Alternative Finish | 20 | 70m | |||
| Start at PB above fifth pitch of Ulysses. 1. 35m. R, through overhang, then R to groove. 2. 35m. Diagonally R to corner crack (pitch two of Steeplechase). Continue R to final gully on Tantalus. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Chris Blunsden (alt) mid 80s | |||||
| Bonfire of the Vanities | 16 | 190m | |||
| Possibly shares a lot of ground with Tantalus. Start at top R of scrubby, slabby ribs 80m R of corner on R side of Ginsberg buttress, at R-leading corner. 1. 25m. Diagonally R up corner over blocky steps, to ledge with tree. 2. 30m. Traverse 5 m R, then up to SHB. 3. 30m. Up R over blocks to handcrack. Crack, almost to its end. 4. 30m Crack, then R across wall (crux). Up to black chimney-crack. 5. 50m. Up, then R round overhang. 6. 25m. Up L, chimney, scrub. | |||||
| Peter Treby, Andrew Webb 12-10-89 | |||||
| Tantalus | 18 | 230m | |||
| Start near large gum down and R of Ulyssss. 1. Use tree to gain face, then groove past bulge. R, then up to bushy ledge (Ulysses pitch-one belay). 2. 45m. Up as for Ulysses to groove. 3. 50m. Groove, then R at blocky area. Now, up wall to base of chimney. 4-6. Follow chimney to good ledge and belay. Traverse L to bushy corner, up this. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Chris Blunsdsn mid 80's | |||||
| Tantalus Direct Finish | 17 | ||||
| Starts from ledge at top of black chimney. Follow large groove above belay for two pitches. Further details lost. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Chris Blunsden mid 80s | |||||
| Steeplechase | 20 | 90m | |||
| Steep, scary traverse on goodrock. Start at ledge 15m from base of Tantalus chimney. 1. 45m. Chimney to steepening and R-leading ledge. Follow ledge to large boulder, then up to ledge above boulder. Traverse round arete to steepwall, then diagonally L to comer crack. 2. 45m. Crack to big ledge. Easily up. | |||||
| Keith Bell, John Fantini (alt) 64-91 | |||||
| Tantarus | 21 | 225m | |||
| Follow track past Ginsberg, drop to lower level and R-leading ledge on R side of waterstreak R of Tantalus. 1. 10m. Cross slabs to belay in bushes just past water-streak. 2. 35m. Up to bulge, then diagonally R and up. Continue until main slab is visible. Up L to tree. 3. 30m. Up R to groove, then groove to just short of water-streak. Up R to poor belay. 4. 35m. Up, then L. Steeply up to break. Follow break L, then flake. Up to next break, then up to groove. Groove to BB. 5. 35m. Groove, over boulder, then R. Up, then diagonally L under bulge. Crack, then L to waterstreak, up this then R. 6. 35m. R, then groove past loose boulders to small ledge. 7. 30m. Up, then diagonally R through bulge to cracks. Cracks, through bulge, then further cracks.Traverse L to belay. 8. 15m. Crack, bulge, then up. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Greg Mortimer (alt) 15-11-81 | |||||
| * | Icarus | 19 | 291m | ||
| Start 50m R of Ulysses, below prominent groove leading to overhanging wall. 1. 45m. Leftward sloping ramp to small stance below obvious slab with tree. 2. 30m. Up slab past tree and into superb corner. Up this to small stance. 3. 36m. Traverse 12m ieft across slab to gully. Up and rightwards out of guily. Move left for 6m then back right and up to spike at base of obvious groove. 4. 30m. Up corner to small roof then left for 6m, pull over buige and move back right to groove to below where the crack peters out. 5. 30m. Up corner to point where crack closes then traverse left for 6m into shallow corner. Pull over bulge above then upwards and left to bolt. 6. 12m. Traverse right to pedestal and tree. 7. 36m (crux). Diagonally leftward to hand traverse line. Traverse left for 3m then up steep shallow corner (peg under bulge). Over blocks to rest below tree. Fight past tree and up onto big blocks. Further left (peg) to bolt. 8. 33m. Up black wall above moving right to nose. Step left and up wail above. 9. 39m (cruxy!). Up to corner directly above. Up this then out left over crange steps, rightwards to smail ramp and hand traverse into corner. Up this to peg on large ledge - easy scrambling remains. | |||||
| Keith Bell/Greg Mortimer Dec' 1972 | |||||
| Ultra-violent | 23 | 35m | |||
| Steep and sustained link-up pitch between Icarus and Falling Feathers. 1-2. As for Icarus. 3. 35m. Traverse R from Icarus corner to weakness. Up and slightly R to base of overhanging groove. Groove, then L at top. Up, then R to crack in slab. Crack and wall to base of Icarus buttress and FF. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 20-11-83 | |||||
| Falling Feathers | 19 | 280m | |||
| Start at small buttress at R sids of slabs R of lcarus buttress. 1. 45m. Buttress, then L across slab to stance. 2. 35m. Follow slab L to crack. Crack to belay. 3. 40m. Continue L until halted, then up R through bulges. Up L to SHB on good nuts. 4. 40m. R to groove, then L up groove to easy ground and top of Icarus buttress. 5. 40m. Wall, then R across bulge to main wall. Wall, then L to stance. 6. 35m. Groove to overhang, then L (poor rock) to tree at base of wide crack. 7. 45m. Crack, then grooves to easier ground. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Ray Lassman 23-1-82 | |||||
| Childhood's End | 21 | 260m | |||
| 1-2. Up slab as for FF, but belay in prominent crack. 3. Crack to steepening, then R and up steeply (poor rock) to slabby ledge. 4. Up R to ledge. 5. R up wall to base of groove. Groove to ledge. 6. Groove to roof, then down R along traverse-line. Swing up R to front of buttress. Wall to base of groove (exposed). 7. Groove. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Chris Blunsden 10-82 | |||||
| Daedalus | 19M0 | 260m | |||
| Start below slabs at R end of cliff. 1. 25m. Slab to ledge. 2. 30m. Slab to corner below bulge. Swing L to arete, then arete to bulge. R through bulge (BR), then slab to stance below steepening. 3. 30m. Up L to crack. Past chockstone, then up L at top of crack. L to belay. 4. 35m. Up, then up L to belay. 5. 20m. Up R to end of bulge, then L to belay. 6. 10m. Wall. 7. 25m. R to corner, Corner, then R at top. Up R to belay. 8. 40m. Wall past black rock, then steeply to roof. L and down to arete. Arete, then L to comer. 9. 40m. Corner , Greg Morllmer, Keith Bell (alt) 73 or 74. F FA (19 M1 - sky hookon pitch two) Keith Bell, Chris Blunsden early 80s | |||||
| Keith Bell/Grey Mortimer 1973ish (19M1) FFA Keith Bell, Chris Blunsden early 80's | |||||
| Meschach | 18 | 255m | |||
| Start at R-slanting crack at extreme R of main cliff. 1. 35m. Crack to stance near tree. 2. 30m. Groove, then R along ledge to tree. 3. 20m. Up R to groove, then groove to small ledge below steepening. 4. 10m. R, through bulge, then L to groove. Up a few m, then L to stance. 5. 25m. Groove past bulge and vines to break. Belay on ledge to R. 6. 15m. Wall past BR, then up L. 7. 90m. Follow vague buttress. | |||||
| Keith Bell, Chris Blunsden 9-81 | |||||
| Tickle My Fancy | 18 | 30m | |||
| At the far right-hand end of the mountain is a small and somewhat separate bluff with a clean coloured left-arching roof. Up wall (crux) to join crack and protection. It all falls into place but watch the loose blocks on exit. | |||||
| Joe Friend, solo, Sept' 1976 | |||||