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IntroductionAn old quarry at the end of Blues Point Reserve in McMahon's Point. Route descriptions from Brendan Allan Flanagan. |
AccessTo get to the crag drive to the southern end of Blues Point Rd in McMahon's Point and park as for Blues Point Reserve. Walk past the playground and the toilet block then continue around the point. The main face is sitting beneath the cave. |
Slap Those Who Stare | V1 | ||||
First wall you see as you round Blues Point. Slopey arête starting on right side of wall. Lose fame by standing on the rock at the start. Move left and up to top out. Disinclined to highball? Get down to the right before the crumbly looking roof for a V0 | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Red Cheeked | V1 | ||||
Sit start in scoop to make the most of the solid holds. Mantel up to finish same as “Slap Those…”. Dodge the highball and get down to the right for a V0. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
ELAP | V4 | ||||
Super Classic Problem. Helps to do yoga before (especially the Extended Lateral Angle Posture) Sit start at “Red Cheeked…” and move left to little side pulling crimper. Finish with both hands on large ledge in Salute to the Sun Posture. Repeat. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Dump Divers Dyno | V2 | ||||
As the local disenfranchised types like using this Dyno hole as a bin, it might need some cleaning. Boost straight up to jugging ledge. Be cautioned, the bin has teeth of the spidery kind. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Dislocation Station | |||||
A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of “Dump Divers” and “ELAP”. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Dislocate Then Elevate | V4 | ||||
Start same as Dislocation Station - Climb up pocket fill area behind park bench and move left along obvious ledge, slapping and smearing. At large, deep letter box, ascend straight up following drill line near top of the cliff. Big high ball, with little choss once you blow the dust off the holds. One of those climbs worth doing once to really get the heart pumping! | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
* | I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is | V2 | |||
Facing the rock beneath the high cave start at the far right, just left of the giant root system coming down to the ground. From here traverse around, pass the big scoop and over the buldge. You can either finish at the large drill hole or walk around to the Perfect Flake and finish on this. | |||||
Brendon Allan Flanagan 2011 |
P By The Sea | V0 | ||||
Starting at the letter P (graffiti) head up and to the right via the small flake and drill hole tapping out on top. | |||||
Brendon Allan Flanagan 2011 |
Hold On Sailor | V2 | ||||
Start under the bulge between P By The Sea and Letterbox Crack. Only using the holds on that face mantle up and on to the skinny ledge at the top of the bulge. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Letterbox Crack | V0 | ||||
Follow the crack up using the vertical pockets. Finish by tapping out at the top of the line. | |||||
Brendon Allan Flanagan 2011 |
Practice Your Mantle | V2 | ||||
Between LC and the second drill hole, mantle the small overhang. Very balancy. | |||||
Brendon Allan Flanagan 2011 |
Grasping For The Wind | V2 | ||||
Sit star using first vertical crack line just left of the scoop (Practice Your Mantle). Make your way up using the smooth arete to your left. Top out without moving to far left (where the easy holds are). | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
* * | Rock The Boat | V3 | |||
Sit start at second crack just left of the scoop. Dog leg up and left via big horizontal crack. Use angled cracks staying as close to Grasping For The Wind as possible, while not using its arete. Love the side pull and top out with final solid ledge hold. Keep your eyes open for possible dyno and sneaky toe jam! | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Practice Your Mantle Part 2 | V0 | ||||
Starting 1 meter to the left of the third dill hole, place your feet on the massive break and mantle. Excellent mantle practice for the beginner. | |||||
Brendon Allan Flanagan 2011 |
Practice Your Mantle Part 3 | V0- | ||||
Start 1 meter left of PYMP2. The perfect mantle for the beginner who's never done one before. | |||||
Brendon Allan Flanagan 2011 |
Crimp And Save | V3 | ||||
Start just right of Perfect Flake, but no touchy! In fact try and avoid the big horizontal line of holds just about head level. Move straight up via sweet balancing start. Just to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3. Less is Best! | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Perfect Flake | V0 | ||||
The name of the climb says it all. Up the flake via some lay back and foot jamming action. | |||||
Unknown |
Easy Up | V1 | ||||
First Climb on the right as the wall starts to take shape. Slab style, with some deceptive, flakey holds. Move up and to the left to finish along obvious ledge. Good for a warm up or cool down. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Piked From The Start | V1 | ||||
Inspired by a Pike - 'flying through the air with both legs and arms pointed in one direction" Lay back the first move just left of Easy Up and move straight up to end slightly left along sandy ledge. Fun moves. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
* * | Monkey Magic | V2 | |||
Regardless of whether you have been "born from an egg on a mountain top" You'll no doubt enjoy this problem. Start on the face covered in features, which juts out the most. Move straight up the defined holds to the same sandy ledge that Easy Up and Piked From The Start finish on (right above you). For best Kung Fu practice climb back down in reverse. No using magic clouds... | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
* | Crane Style | ||||
Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs. Completed Sept 9 2012 using the bottom hold of Monkey Magic. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
Fingers Full of Steel | V1 | ||||
Start in the Vertical Crack and use it to get up and under the chossy roof. Use the crack all the way for best results. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
High Knee | |||||
Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required! | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |
* * | Bruce Lee | V4 | |||
Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb. | |||||
Ranger Dave, 2012 |