Blackwall Mountain

	10 mins
	Shade all day

Introduction

A grungy but popular crag high up on the south side of Blackwall Mountain, overlooking Ettalong Beach. Mostly carrot bolts amongst the spooge and graffiti. Some fine views all the way to Barrenjoey!

History

Most of the routes at this crag were developed in 1996 in a frenzy by Richard Jeffrey. Several large boulders perched above the crag offer some good bouldering which was popularised by Gary Hamilton who developed most of the problems around 2000 - 2001.

Access

Park at the end of Mullbong Road, Orange Grove, and take the well defined walking track on the left to the summit of Blackwall Mountain. (Ignore the gated fire trail straight ahead.) Locate the concrete summit cairn, then head left (i.e. East) and down a few tiers until it is possible to drop down through a slot to reach the ledge running back under the crag.

Kit Kat Wall

The first wall to the West of the descent gully.

Chocoholic	14	10m
Below corner at right end of Kit Kat Wall. Up corner to ledge of cave, then left up slab to top. 2 BRs to double BB belay.
Anna, Rob Schneider, Jenny McLaren 1996

Break a Piece for Me	18	10m
1.5 left of C. Direct start for C. Straight up past BR then as for C. 3 BR in total to double BB belay.
Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes 1996

*	Wafer Fingers	19	10m
	2.5m left of BAPFM. Up to BR, then veer left to hueco then straight up. 4 BRs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey, Red Rhodes, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

Better Brakes than a Bobcat	21	10m
2m right of BBTAKK. 4 BRs to belay as for BBTAKK.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith, Jenny McLaren 1996

* *	Better Breaks than a Kit Kat	19	10m
	Obvious crack / weakness in centre of wall. 4 BRs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey 1996

Take a Break	21	10m
2m left of BBTAKK. 3 BRs to double BB belay. Take care with the first (high) clip.
Richard Jeffrey 1996

I Love Cats, Not!	22	10m
Just left of TAB. Harder variant start to TAB. Up to BR then left and up as for TAB. 4 BRs to belay as for TAB.
Richard Jeffrey 1996

Put a Hot Wire Through my Head	16	10m
The obvious off width chimney. Up the right side of the chimney. Excellent natural protection.
Ross Linsley 1996

Red Head Wall

The red wall to the left of the obvious chimney.

* *	Suspenders Will Do It, Right Hand Variant	21	10m
	3.5m left of the chimney. Straight up arete to roof then exit left. 4 BRs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey 2001

* *	Suspenders Will Do It	19	10m
	Just left of SWDIRHV. Veer right to underside of roof then exit left. 4 BRs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

*	Just Dye It	21	10m
	2m left of SWDI. Up left side of blunt arete. 5 BRs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey 1996

Rather be Dead than Red	23	10m
3m left of JDI. Straight up and over bulge. 4 BRs to double BB belay.
Richard Jeffrey 1996

Grand Canyon	15	10m
Offwidth crack / corner at left end of Red Head Wall.

Big Day Out	22	10m
2m left of GC. Up center of short wall through roof and short headwall above. Double BB belay. Note: this route is a top rope problem, since the rock quality was not high enough to allow lead bolts to be placed.

Offspring Wall

The slabby wall to the left and just south of Red Head Wall.

* *	Hell No It's Twins	16	10m
	Up slab on left side of arete. 4 BRs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

Shelve It	17	10m
3m left of HNIT. Up slab then run it out through easy ground to the belay. 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

Home Improvements	14	10m
Crack 1.5m left of SI.
Jackie, Grant Severn 1999

Roaches Have Cream Centres	19	10m
4m left of HI. Up through small alcove. A bit dirty but worth a look. 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

Backyard Blitz	14	12m
Up the corner 8m L of RHCC, passing black boy sticking out of cliff.
Gordon Porter, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1999

* *	Rumba	21	12m
	8m left of BB. Bold and a little runout. Start of low block and veer slightly right to finish back on the left side of the prominent overhanging block. Take a range of small to large cams.
	Gordon Porter, Grant Severn, Richard Jeffrey 2001

* *	Techtonic	23	12m
	On the left side of the block at the right end of the cave. Stick clip RB then straight up to break (#0 and #0.5 friends). Up steepening wall (#2 friend in pocket and RB) to top. Double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey 2001

* *	A	22	12m
	Up to break as for T, then left (friends) and up to double BB belay.

* * *	Living Vicariously	26	12m
	10m L of Saggitarius and just before The Box. Hard start up to the roof then up and around the lip onto the arete. Finishes as for The Box. Bolted by Julian Hurrell and Paul Riviere Feb 2016. FA by Julian May 2016.
	Julian Hurrell 2016

*	The Box	23	12m
	Starts 10mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving
	Paul Riviere 2015

* *	Modern Plumbing	26	10m
	At left end of cave. Stick clip fist bolt to protect start, then up to break (#1 and #1.5 friends) then up steepening wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.
	Paul Riviere 2001

* *	Ring Leader	23	10m
	3m left of MP. Easy climbing to first high clip, then veer right and up steepening wall to top. 3 RBs to double BB belay.
	Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn 2002

Red Neck	12	12m
Up easy slab left of RL. Mid sized friends at half height for protection.
Grant Severn, Matthew Kingsman-Smith, Richard Jeffrey

(Drilled Unbolted Project #3)	??	10m
The slab.
6m left of RN.

Grubby Groove	14	6m
The corner crack 2m left of DUP#3.
Gordon Porter, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 2000

(Drilled Unbolted Project #4)	??	6m
1.5m left of GG. Up left side of arete.

(Drilled Unbolted Project #5)	??	8m
6.5m left of DUP#4. Up slab.

B	15	8m
2m left of DUP#5. Up slab and left side of arete. 2 BRs to tree belay.

(Open Project)	??	6m
6m left of B. Left side of blunt arete. Always dirty. 2 RBs to double BB belay.