Berumbuckle Mountain

Introduction

The 1976 guide reads "The last formidable walled peak in the main range, it's yellow and orange rock being the best indicator of overall quality. Its east facing aspect should bring it into vogue as a summertime cliff for a few years to come." Its now 2011 and still no new routes!

Access

Crag is on private property.


Wet Trick 13 140m
A Lakeland style route with some beaut positions. An obvious starter. START:At the very southern end of the crag under an easy sloping set of ramps. 1. 50m. Up ramps to top of a big ledge before the walls steepen. 2. 30m. Down slightly then across (right) to a clean angular crack (crux) which is bushy at base then best jammed. 3. 60m. The first of the upper pitches is tricky. Watch the big loose block at about 15m - take slabs out left. Exit crack is cunning!
Joe Friend, solo. Sept' 76