Berowra

	Crag faces north
	A extensive crag, 20m high, great rock

Introduction

Berowra is an awesome crag, with many high quality routes on fantastic sandstone. Very popular. The cliff faces north with a hint of west and is an excellent winter climbing area; in summer it roasts in the sun, but even on the hottest days climbing is feasible until mid morning. Now even more consumer friendly with the recent addition of new bolts and lower-offs to many of the more popular routes. Note: snakes (usually browns) have been encountered at this crag. Pay extra attention when climbing here, particularly during the hotter months.

Access

Find your way to the end of Wideview Rd, Berowra Heights. It's 2.9km from Berowra Railway Station, bring your pushbike! The cliff parallels the road on the left. From the end of the street, follow the vague walking track north to the top of the cliff, then follow the path right (facing out) until a descent gully is reached. If you don't like the look of the first descent gully, continue on and the next one is easier. Climbs are described left to right. It is also possible to descend at the right hand end of the crag with a bit of scrambling.

Climbs are described left to right (east to west), facing the cliff.

East Buttress

The good looking bulgy orange buttress just left of the eastern descent gully.

A	17	10m
Left of P somewhere. Marked. A poxy boulder problem. No pro?

*	Pimple	19/20	10m
	Between A and IFY. Marked. Good climbing up to and through the roof (1 BR, 1 RB), and easier but still pleasant up the crack in the headwall (natural protection). Tree belay back from the edge.

*	Look Blue Go Purple	18	10m
	Start in scooped alcove right of P. Through gap in the scoop then follow RBs to the apex of the wall. 3 RBs to double RB lower off. Excellent rock.
	Chris Yeomans, Dale Tweedie 2005-05-25

*	It's For You	18	10m
	Good moves up the wall right of P (2 BRs to 2 RB lower off). The climb stays to the right, using the arete. An extra BR is located high up, in the centre of the face (left of the climb) for an alternate finish.
	Mike Law (solo) 1980s

*	Taylor Made	15	6m
	Up and right of IFY. Jugs past 2 FHs. Although Julian reckons it's pretty poxy, everyone else reckons it's a great little warm up!
	Julian Anderson

The descent gully arrives here.

Savage Cabbage	19	8m
5m left of CC, and 30m right of descent gully. Up thin crack then tricky moves left to main crack. Follow this (take care with pro) to new lower off. Often dirty and sometimes inhabited by a (friendly) brown snake.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

Stone Grotties	16	8m
2m right of SC, just left of CC. Up past 3 RBs and good holds. Easy grade and bolts should keep it clean.

The next route is often used as an ascent / descent.

Cenotaph Corner	4	8m
The slabby corner crack right of SG.

B	25+	9m
2m right of CC. Blank wall straight up past two BRs with desperate moves to clip the second BR and move past it, or very easily stepping right.
Mikl Law 1980s

* * *	Ladder of Gloom	19	12m
	A very popular, fun and photogenic route. 10m right of CC. Traverse right to the bottom of the ladder then steeply up. 4 RBs to double RB lower off. Take care getting to the first bolt.
	Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s

*	Ladder of Death	22	10m
	Start directly below the LoG. Clip RB, big steep dyno to jug then short, strenuous arete (RB). Move left to 2nd RB on LoG and up.

* * *	The Mantle Machine	14	12m
	Demoralising for short-arses. Starts 4m right of LoD (just past the low roof with the hole). Move diagonally left mantling overhangs. Take a friend for a horizontal slot, with a BR higher up. Finish just right of LoG.
	Hayden Brotchie, N. Timms 1993-09-12

*	Medium Strip	19	10m
	Start as for TMM. Follow the 4 gold FHs up the rounded arete. Note that this route tops out. Use tree for anchor.
	Julian Anderson 1998

C	8	12m
5m right of MS. Up the low angled slab to the obvious ramp (BR). Has been mistaken as an ascent / descent route!

Cave of Soap

The big rounded cave with the distinctive overhanging corner crack (Soap), 30m or so right of TMM.

Sumo	23	18m
Wall on left side of the Cave of Soap. Stick clip first RB, then traverse left along the lip of the roof past 7 more RBs to a double RB lower off at the end of the roof. Take care with the rock - a lot of it looks pretty friable.
Lloyd Wishart 1997-07-29

* * *	Soap	23	15m
	The overhanging corner crack on the left edge of the cave. Up steep crack past jugs then out the roof crack and up.
	Giles Bradbury 1980s

D (Project)	28?	12m
Heads up Soap for a couple of metres, then breaks out right across the main roof. 5 RBs to chain lower off (above LH).

E (Dingo?)	24	8m
2m right of Soap. Steeply up chips past 3 BRs and RB to double RB lower off.

F (Dingo?)	26	8m
1m right of E. Steeply up chips past 4 RBs to chain lower off as for LH.

*	Luv Handles	21	8m
	2m right of F. Steep moves past 5 RBs to chain lower off. 3rd RB is dodgy.
	Unknown 2001

Timmy Time	22	15m
As for Luv Handles, then step out across the void and continue 7m along the lip of the cave to finish at the lonely chain. Guaranteed to give you a whole body pump.
Tim Mayer 12/10/14

The Blackboard

A stunning, dead vertical black wall that extends right from the Cave of Soap. Tends to seep quite badly after rain. During January 2003, most of the routes on this wall were rebolted by the SRC Rebolting Fund.

* *	3D Wimp Out	21	12m
	The right arete of the Cave of Soap. Undercut start, short arete then wall above. 4 RBs in total to lower off. May be harder since the glued on hold near the top ripped off.
	James Holbrook, Mike Law 1980s

*	Alison	25	12m
	1m right of 3DW. Up to cave, then thin wall above. Star rating dependant on whether route has been recently cleaned. 4 RBs.
	James Holbrook 1980s

*	The Red Menace	24	15m
	Up A to scoop, traverse right to jug on lip of roof, then up crimpy headwall. 5 RBs to lower off.
	Stephen Hawkshaw 2004-03

Gash	16	12m
3m right of A. Unpleasant V chimney, often dirty. Take care with pro.

* * *	Yesterday's Heroes	17	12m
	Very popular. Fantastic rock. 3m right of G, marked. Delicate start, L under overlap, trending R to top. 4 RBs to lower off. Direct through overlap is 18.
	Venus Kondos 1980s

* *	Palm Sunday	21	12m
	1m right of YH. Trend right past 3 spaced RBs on decreasing holds to lower off.
	Craig Martin, Harry Wilson 1980s

Samantha	20	10m
2m right of PS. Thin face past 2 BRs, then cams to lower off (shared with DC).
Scott Butler, James Holbrrok 1980s

Up onto elevated platform.

Dangerous Currents	22	6m
Marked. Straight up past two RBs to lower off. Straying right towards Eccles only scores 19.
Matt Raison, Dan Raison 2004

* *	Eccles	20	7m
	Just right of DC. Up on crimps past 2 RBs to the lower off above DC. Getting harder as holds getting smaller.
	Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

JHTB	20	8m
Right of E. 2RB to loweroffs. Hard start.

*	Bill Collins	24	10m
	Just right of elevated platform - for some reason you won't have trouble locating it. Mantle on jug then thin and sharp face climbing. 3 RBs to lower off. There has been some controversy about the grade of this climb - some people have said it's 25 while others say it's a soft 24.
	Mike Law 1980s

* * *	Sweet Cheeks	26	11m
	Starts 2m R of BC, and finish at anchors of the extended version of GV. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.
	Tim Mayer 9/1/14

*	Gidget / Verdon	22+	15m
	8m right of BC. Ridiculously hard start, then up flake and veer right at 3rd RB to top. 3 RBs in total with no lower off (yet). A variant veers left at the 3rd RB past another 2 RBs to a double RB lower off.
	Mike Law 1980s

* *	Butter Knives	28	12m
	4m right of GV. Sharp and thin past 3 RBs. Originally graded 26, but a sandbag. Recently Rebolted. TM
	Mike Law 1980s

*	Marsala	12	8m
	The corner crack at the right hand end of the Blackboard. Fun but short. Jamming school.

50m right of the Blackboard is a short, steep pocketed wall.

Great Expectations	22	8m
Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish.
Tim Mayer 1-4-16

Toy Story	23	8m
Up the small steep wall following line of Us. Nice toy climb.
Child, 2016

*	Julian's Finest Hour	16	6m
	5m right of G. Up the steep wall on big holds. Might be exciting for budding grade 16 leaders!
	Julian Anderson 1990s - was a scary trad route - now rebolted

* *	Violet Bumble	17	12m
	Left of Grumpy Old Men, up the interesting flake past FHs and then hand-traverse right and up to lower-offs.
	Child & Jones

Grumpy Old Men	23	9m
4 metres left of Scones of Doom. Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. Two rings to lower off. Bouldery.
Gavin Portier 2009

Up the Duff	22	8m
2m left of cave. Unattractive. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.
Paul Duff 1997

Glamorpus Wall

An attractive, bulgy orange wall capped with rooves, 60m right of the Blackboard.

* * *	Scones of Doom	23	12m
	A Sydney classic! Marked. Steeply up past 4 RBs to a double bolt belay just over the roof. There was some tape on one of the bolts ~ it might mean its dodgy and needs replacing, take care.
	Mikl Law 1980s

* *	Omnopox	24	12m
	3m right of SoD. 3 U bolts, left to double U bolt lower off.
	Mikl Law 1980s

* * *	Glamorpus	24	15m
	Start below central hanging arete. Compact wall past 5 RBs, then step left to chain. Original continued out the steep arete. It's worth stick clipping the 2nd bolt as the fall from the 1st bolt is ugly.
	Mikl Law 1980s

Glamour Mum	22	12m
Picking the absolute worst of Glamorpus and Are You My Mother. More mantles than a display home estate. Do the mantle on Glamorpus then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on Are You My Mother.
Anthony Lin 26/07/2009

* *	Are You My Pussy	23	19m
	A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb Are You My Mother to second bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U-bolt, finishing up Glamorpus.
	Barry Jones 2009

* *	Are You My Mother?	25	12m
	4m right of G. Reachy wall, then out roof past hole.
	Scott Butler 1980s

* *	Green Eggs and Ham	23	12m
	2m right of AYMM. Up corner, left at roof, corner. Right and up to anchor as for Zooloft.
	Scott Butler 1980s retro'd 2011

* * *	Zooloft	18	12m
	A new easy classic at Berowra after all these years. Probably done previously on sad dynabolts. Start as for Green Eggs and Ham. A bouldery sandy start rightwards (hard) then up the fun jagged arete and wall above.
	Mikl 2011

Lentil Lollipops	9	12m
Marked. 1m right of Z. Steep start, then up the chimney/corner. An interesting excursion, but take care with pro.
Geoffrey Heath, James Holbrook 1980s

Thank God it's Friday	25	10m
Start as for NIBS, but a more direct finish straight up above third B.
Tim Mayer 5-8-14

*	Nights in Black Satin	25	12m
	3m right of LL. Up short wall clipping two old Bs, then diagonally up steep prow ballooning around on good pockets, to RB. R to finish up Scott's Edge. Please stay off the more direct finish recently bolted, which is marked with a tag as its still a proj
	Tim Mayer, 2007

Bullet Hole Wall

Around right is an amazing pocketed wall with a low roof on the left end, and a prominent flake up and right. Great climbing, very popular. French limestone but without the rude Euros and polished holds!

* *	Scott's Edge	22/23	15m
	The left arete of Bullet Hole Wall. Roof and arete passing 5 RBs to lower off.
	Scott Butler 1980s

* *	Comausminpab	18	12m
	Marked. 2m right of SE. The name is a Navy acronym for "Commander Australian Mine Warfare and Patrol Boat Forces". Roof (RB), then pocketed wall past rebar staple and RBs. RB / U bolt lower off.

*	IGMC	19	12m
	Between C and FSP. Roof (RB), then straight up past 4 RB to double RB lower off.

* *	Fox / Sox / Pox	19	12m
	2m right of C. Steep through roof, then up terrific pocketed wall past 2 rebar staples and 2 RBs to a chain lower off.

*	Natasha	22	12m
	3m right of FSP. Sustained pockets past 4RB to chain lower off. Thin crux past 3rd RB. Stick clip first RB. Maybe a cam near top?

* *	Looks Poxable	21	12m
	Ignore the name, its a great thin wall! 1m right of N. 4 RBs to new double U bolt lower offs.
	Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

*	Mental Fatigue Direct Start	21	12m
	Direct start to Mental Fatigue past 2 RBs.

* * *	Mental Fatigue	18	11m
	The crag classic for the grade, very popular. The prominent flake 2m right of LP. Follow flake up, traverse left a bit, then up the brilliant wall to chain lower off.
	James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

Broken Candy	20	11m
Start as for MF. Up and right past 2RB (1st shared with MF) and U bolt to double RB lower off.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

*	Torque is Cheap	22	10m
	4m right (up slope) from MF. Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well. Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish.
	Gavin Portier 2009

A nice orange wall and corner appears 30m right of the Bullet Hole Wall.

* *	Who Cares	19	12m
	Start As for 24. Clip RB. From scoop after bouldery start head left to arete. Good wires/small cams in deep fingercracks. At the cave, head right. Take 2 long slings for cave and flake. Take care with pro (wires and cams). Traverse to rings on 24 or top out.
	James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

*	24	21	12m
	3m left of the corner. Boulder steep start (stick clip RB), then big crux move past 3rd RB to break. More easily to top. Only worth 20 if you veer left at 3rd RB.
	James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

	Project		15m
	Start as for Positive Ape Factor, then head left onto bolts as PAV veers R. Closed Project - Tim Mayer
	Project Tim Mayer

*	Positive Ape Factor	22	10m
	The obvious orange corner. Easy up the cracks then a huge reach (crux) to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout. 2 good BBs.
	Scott Butler 1980s

*	Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish)	21	10m
	Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake past bolt.
	Giles Bradbury 1980s

K (Ancient open project)	??	10m
2m right of PAF. 2 BRs (1st has ancient tat).

Project 2	??	10m
About 2m right of K. Closed Project - Tim Mayer

* *	Daily Grind	25	10m
	2m right of K. Technical.
	Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s

* *	Kenneth's Climb	14	10m
	A popular route, one of the few easy grade well protected trad leads around. 2m right of DG, below cracks. Protect the start with a high cam in the horizontal, then up pleasant slabby cracks. Weird double bolt belay, backup with trees.
	James Holbrook, Greg Christie 1980s

*	Flake Thing	21	12m
	5m right of KC. Right side of arete past bolts and cams.
	Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

* *	Wall Thing	18	12m
	2m right of FT. Wall past breaks (often sandy) to thin crack. 4 RBs to lower off.
	Rohan Reynolds, Michael ? 1980s

*	Boundary Rider	19	10m
	1m right of WT. Straight up past RB and 3 BRs to new lower off. Straying right near the top only scores a 16.
	Julian Anderson, Jonas Kuginis 1998-07