Barrenjoey
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10 minutes
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Crag faces south and west.
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Good sandstone cragging with seaside views
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Introduction
There are five established climbing areas on the Barrenjoey Peninsula but everyone comes to climb at the main southwestern crag. Its quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade routes. The views over Pittwater and West Head are magic. As well as the climbing, there are the beaches, both on the surf side and the estuary side, and walking trails and BBQ facilities. The Barrenjoey Peninsula experienced a wild fire in October 2013 and all crags were affected.
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Access
Find your way to the Barrenjoey Peninsula by following Barrenjoey Rd right to the end of the world. Turn left into Governor Philip Park and follow the road to the end where there is some expensive parking. (1hr $4, then $2.40 for ever hour thereafter) Drive back out of the park and go block someone's driveway in the nearby suburbs and walk back in. You can also catch the bus, but it takes its time. To reach the main southwest crag, step onto Station Beach (the estuary side of the peninsula, i.e. west) and walk along the beach past the lighthouse walking track turnoff, past a few houses, until the beach ends. Rock hop (or get your feet wet, it depends on the tide) another 100m until you locate a single unsigned walking track that weaves up into the scrub just below the last house. Don't confuse this trail with the signposted private property steps. If all goes well the path should take you through a pocket of rainforest and starts to contour around the peninsula. The crag is just up and right, accessed via a couple of paths leading off the main trail. The crag is obvious when walking along Station Beach, so figure out where you want to go before leaving the beach. Please take care of the place: carry out your own (and other people's) rubbish, stick to the existing tracks and make use of the numerous lower offs and rap points rather than trashing the descent gullies. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here. The entire crag was rebolted by the SRC over the period 2002 to 2006.
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Southwest Main Crag
Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff. If you've followed the track to the cliff you will probably end up around Left Side in front of the obvious line "Crack of Dawn" - see topo.
Right Side
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Evil Spuds
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14
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6m
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The overhang.
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Gollum's Grope
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12
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4m
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The offwidth.
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Pyroclean
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7
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4m
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The chimney.
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Zodiac's Pure Vegetables
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22
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8m
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10m right of H. Up the wall and seam.
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Craig D. Martin 1984-02-09
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The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.
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Haircut
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13
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4m
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The offwidth.
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Solipsism
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13
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4m
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The arete.
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Speleolie
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9
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4m
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The crack.
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Feetus Position
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9
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4m
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The offwidth.
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Exit Tortons
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5
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10m
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3m right of A, below chimney. Climb to ledge, walk left, and then up over block using chipped jugs. Exposed! Used as a descent route in days gone by.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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The Great Roof Left Hand Eliminate
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19
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8m
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Start on the ledge under the obvious big roof above the descent route ET. Up the chossy corner to roof. Hand traverse L to arete, up to DBB anchors.
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FTRA: Mike Garben 2003-03-01
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Long Neck
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20
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7m
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Scramble up then start on block around the arete L of the Great Roof. Up middle of wall to DBB on top of the roof.
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FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-03-01
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Albatross
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14
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12m
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5m right of FF. Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-09
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Frog's Fling
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17
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13m
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1m right of K9. Up to traverse line (good #3 camalot in roof) then head right to arete with difficulty. The infamous "tree runner" is an option. Up hanging slab (some small cams available). The crux is unprotected.
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Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982
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K9
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17
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10m
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2m right of R. Up the flaring finger crack.
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T. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-04
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Ratbite
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11
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10m
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The obvious corner 2m right of WG.
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Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones 1983-07-04
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*
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Wild Gravity
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21
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12m
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2.5m right of TMMDF. Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.
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Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin 1983-09
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Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart
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22
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7m
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1.5m right of PWCB. Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.
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Mike Law, Craig B. Martin 1985-11-19
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* *
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Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket
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16
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18m
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Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block. Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-07
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Right Side Upper
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* *
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Cranky
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20
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7m
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Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB. Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.
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A (Open project)
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25+?
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8m
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The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.
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Left Side
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Millie
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10
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11m
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2m right of J. Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.
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* *
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Jezebel
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9
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11m
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On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.
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Two Steps Forward
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13
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11m
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As for J. Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1982-11
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Carrie Bradshaw
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14
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12m
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2m left of TSF. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (#0.4 and #0.75 / #1 Camalot) in breaks to a double BB belay.
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Niall Doherty 2003-06-08
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Starboard Barnacles
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14
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12m
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Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.
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Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey 1984-06-03
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Elf Town
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14
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12m
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Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay.
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Dave Stuckey, Johan Verhagen 1984-06-03
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*
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Judgement Day
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14
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14m
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2m left of ET. Great gear and moves up the thin crack, then bridge the chimney until it becomes a hand crack up high. Belay as for ET. Big cam useful.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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* * *
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Enterprise
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18
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15m
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2m left of JD. 4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-06
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*
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Enterprise Variant
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17
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15m
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Follow flake on right at top.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin 1983-06
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* * *
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Crack of Dawn
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15
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15m
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The classic line up the middle of the wall. Great climbing past good gear all the way up. Follow the line to the top, but some people wuss by clipping nearby bolts for the final mantle. Double RB belay/rap.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Arachibutyrophobia
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20
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15m
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1m left of CoD. Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.
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Peter Ward 1986-06-08
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* *
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Liquid Insanity
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18
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15m
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1m left of A. Great climbing! Reachy crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (small cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay on double RBs at the left end of the ledge.
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Glenn Robbins
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* *
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Marsupial Smearer
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18
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18m
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1m left of LI. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break (can clip BR on ISHFWILF to the left). Finish directly over block (BR on headwall) to double BB belay. Alternately, step right below the block to belay as for Liquid Insanity.
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Captain Black
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*
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I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For
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21
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18m
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Marked "ISF". 2m left of MS. Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Battle through large bush and continue straight up over the bulge, (2 BRs), staying out of the crack to the right. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.
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I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant
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18
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18m
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As for ISHFWILF, but bail right to the crack of MS to avoid the bulge.
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Domino
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14
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15m
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Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF, past chockstones, getting harder with height. Big pro recommended.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Tropico
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15
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15m
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Marked "AT". 2m left of D. Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).
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*
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Cramp Ons
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18
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16m
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Start below wall, 2m left of T. Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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*
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Wild Ride
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16
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16m
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Marked. 2m left of CO. Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO.
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The next climb starts below the south east face of the large boulder teetering on top of the crag above the Wild Ride area (obvious from beach).
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* *
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Long Flower Noodle
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23
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7m
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Up to thread, traverse a bit R then up. DBB.
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FTRA: Mike Garben, Jo Maude 2003-01-23
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Back to ground level. For all routes from here to HTS descend using the double RB rap anchor above HTS.
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*
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Hang Over
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9
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12m
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Crack 1m left of WR. Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Womb To Tomb
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17
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12m
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1m left of HO below bulge. Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).
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Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11
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Beneath and to the left of the climb marked "CE" (Cosmic Ecology) is an extensive ancient aboriginal midden. Judging by the size (it runs for 5 or more metres down the slope) aborigines were camping here for thousands of years. With fresh water nearby, protection from the winds, hunting and fishing grounds nearby, and good views to the isthmus, it must have been a significant campsite. Please help preserve the midden and don't boulder or trample on it.
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*
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Computer Sox
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14
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7m
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Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.
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Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11
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Cythaul Haul
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10
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12m
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Crack left of CS.
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Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity
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14
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6m
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2m left of CH. Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.
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Martin Jones
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Sacrilege
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12
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4m
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The Offwidth left of HTS.
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The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again
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19
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10m
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Start below arete, 1m left of S. Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.
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Benign
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20
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10m
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4m left of tPBSA. Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.
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Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-08-12
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Benign Variant Finish
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16
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10m
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As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.
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Been There, Done That
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7
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10m
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Chimney left of B.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Pledge a Legend Wall
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* *
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Central Pillar of Mordor
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19
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14m
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Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.
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*
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Orgasmic
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11
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15m
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Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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*
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Sand Syringe
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18
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15m
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3m left of O. Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.
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Craig B. Martin, N. Moran 1984-07-01
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*
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Not Your Average Cab Sav
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19
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15m
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2m left of SS. Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.
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Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22
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* *
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Pledge a Legend
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14
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16m
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1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Borcat Blues
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18
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16m
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2m left of PAL. Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.
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Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-07
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Tangerine Dream
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16
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15m
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2m left of BB. Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Cobwebs
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18
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15m
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2m left of TD. Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD.
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Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos 1986-06-17
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Celluloid Heroes
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10
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10m
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8m left of C. Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Nightingale
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7
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10m
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The chimney left of CH.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Pox Travels Fast
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16
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12m
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Just left of N. Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.
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Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin
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Pinnacle of Peril
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15
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16m
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Arete left of PTF. Straight up exposed and unprotected arete.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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*
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Super Exciting Xylophone
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21
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16m
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2m left of PP. Popular. Thin crux up wall (BR) and through overlap then up airy, easy (grade 15) pinnacle (BR, cams, threads). Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).
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Intoxicating Liquor
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9
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15m
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Left of SEX. Up crack then up chimney above that.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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*
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Little Plaything
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19/20
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15m
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1m left of IL. Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.
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*
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Anti Scuttler
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18
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15m
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Very shallow corner left of LP. A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.
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Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin 1982-09-12
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* *
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Sweet Heart
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22
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12m
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Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB.
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FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003
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Facet
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15
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15m
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Left of AS. Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Crack 'n' Up
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8
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17m
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Offwidth 2m left of F.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.
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* *
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Mescalito
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19
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12m
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2m left of CnU. Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.
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*
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Mode
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16
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14m
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2m left of M. 3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.
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Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville 2003-10
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* *
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Abseil Wall
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16
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14m
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2m left of M at seam. Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Cams and nuts. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.
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Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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*
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Pan Pacific Wall
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16
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14m
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2m left of AW. Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay.
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*
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Long Line of Leanings
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19
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15m
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Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.
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Craig B. Martin, Mike Law 1985-12-08
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Wrong Line of Leanings
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22
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15m
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Start in left side of LLoL cave. Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.
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Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-01-15
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* *
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Pulse of Fools
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25
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12m
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5m left of LLL. Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.
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Mike Law 1985-12-02
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Suer
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10
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6m
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Corner crack left of PoF.
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Krill
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13
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6m
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The offwidth left of S.
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Ikon Direct
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19
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10m
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Middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.
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Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22
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Ikon
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17
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10m
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As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1984-06
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Rays Moppy
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11
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10m
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Marked M, 10m left of I. Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.
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Ray Haak, John Shaw 2005-07-16
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Insomnia Cave Rock
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Observatory
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15
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10m
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5m right of cave. Over bulge to ledge then up crack to double BB.
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Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-07-25
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Leon the Klepto Cat
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19
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12m
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At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece. Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.
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Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-02-16
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*
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Tillies and Triangles
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23
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10m
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4m left of LtKC. Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.
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Craig B. Martin 1984-09-22
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Orbs Dilated Glory
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12
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10m
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3m left of TaT. Straight up wall.
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Craig B. Martin (solo)
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No Sorry it Makes Me Fart
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14
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9m
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2m left of ODG. Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.
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Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05
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Baby Steps
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10
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9m
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As for NSIMMF. On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.
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Niall Doherty (self belayed, badly - does that make it a solo?) 2005-10-16
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More Tea Vicar?
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11
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8m
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Start below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS. Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.
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Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05
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Strangler's Corner
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Home Made Jamb
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10
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7m
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A shame it's so short. Up the lovely layback crack.
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Seller's Pirate
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8
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4m
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The crack.
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Never a Frown
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13
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4m
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The wall.
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Custom House Rocks
Disorder Corners
Lighthouse Track
If you follow the main paved walking track up to the lighthouse, you will pass a cliff to the right which overlooks the path. It was popular in its day but owing to the proximity to a very busy walking track, climbing is discouraged.
North Palm Beach
This is the obvious line of cliffs high up above the beach at the southern end of Palm Beach (the ocean side). It is best accessed by following the paved walking track to the lighthouse, then heading east along the ridge past a graveyard and monuments, until you locate a faint track back south that leads to an informal lookout above the cliff. It is possible to descend to below the cliffs via a series of gullies to the right (if facing out from the lookout). This gully can be identified from below on the beach by locating two huge fallen blocks.
The climbing to the right of the descent gully (when facing the cliff) is fairly ordinary and access is along a hideous unstable ledge, not recommended. It may be possible to rap down to the amphitheatre of Freck's Effort if you can locate it. It's probably easier to explore the climbing left of the descent gully. Unfortunately the route descriptions are currently from left to right, so you'll be going in reverse.
Nobody has climbed here in a long time, and all fixed protection is rotten and worthless.
Climbs are described left to right (facing the cliff) starting from the far left end of the crag.
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Stove Leg Crack
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7
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5m
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Offwidth.
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Concise Crack.
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8
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6m
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Left of TH. Up the slab and corner crack above.
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Thirteen Hex
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17
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10m
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Up steep corner left of WFT to shrub and cam belay.
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Roy Chick, Ian Strut 1984-11-24
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*
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Warp Factor Two
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18
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12m
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Up orange wall left of S to blocks, then crack through overhang.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1982-10-03
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Shrubberies
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17
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12m
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Start below offwidth left of O. Up wall past breaks, walk 5m left to bollard anchor.
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Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-29
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Oggindeli
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15
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6m
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4m left of TP. Up short wall (cam) to BB.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1984-08-01
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Tartan Tomato Plant
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19
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12m
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40m left of OIAL. Crank up past 2 BRs to easier moves and BB belay.
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Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22
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There is a line of new rings here, no details known.
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Once in a Lifetime
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23
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13m
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Finger crack on prominent arete near large boulder. Up crack to recess (cam). Continue up wall (2 BRs) to a bariety of belays. On an early attempt (pre bolts), Craig D. Martin took a 10m ground fall. All bolts worthless and the piton is a museum piece.
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Craig D. Martin 1983-05-14
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SID's Supremacy
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18
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4m
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Second pitch to OIAL, starting beneath overhang.
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Craig D. Martin
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Paw Antics
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19
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10m
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Left of FA. Up wall past break and crack to BB.
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Paul Colyvan, Giles Bradbury 1984-09-22
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Some random rusted carrots around here, not everything might have been successfully climbed.
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Frog's Anus
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14
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10m
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Corner crack opposite large boulder parallel to crack. Rarely dry.
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Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, A Montgomery 1982-10-03
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Zany Wall
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12
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19m
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3m right of FA.
1. 10m (12) Up wall to cave. Pull lip to ledge.
2. 9m (12) Walk 4m right then follow corner and slab to top.
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Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin
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*
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Return of the Pink Sausage
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16
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15m
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3m right of ZW. Sustained moves up corner crack.
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Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin 1983-02-22
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*
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Babe
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18
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15m
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Up corner right of ROTPS to PR on left. Continue straight up wall passing 2 more BRs.
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Mike Meyers, Craig B. Martin 1983-02-22
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The following three boulder problems make good descent routes.
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Windward Sausage
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8
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10m
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About 30m right of B, 6m left of ACB. Arete to slabs.
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Roomba Revisited
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6
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10m
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6m left of ACB. Arete to slabs.
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Roomba Revisited Direct
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14
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10m
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4m left of ACB. Up directy over bulge. Possibly now has retro bolts or is that another route?
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A Clean Break
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16
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8m
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Start below cracks on left wall of SV recess. Up cracks then hard move past manky BR to top. Cam and slung block belay.
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Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1984-05
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The following two routes seem to be misplaced. Original details are shown here.
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Quarto Direct
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15
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18m
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40m right of ZW. Delicately up slab and as for Q.
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Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin 1982-11-03
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Quarto
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10
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20m
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2m right of QD. Up slab to ledge. Left and up short corner.
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Craig B. Martin (solo) 1982-11-02
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* *
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Space Vampires
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18
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12m
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4m right of ACB, below yellow overhangs. Up steep rock (2 manky BRs) to traverse line. Move left (2 manky BRs) to abysmal BB and dodgy micro cam / small wire belay.
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Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin 1984-08-01
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Eulogy
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14
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14m
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5m right of SV, below overhanging corner crack. Intimidating, but not too hard. Up corner, step right to arete and up.
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Craig D. Martin 1984-05
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*
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Same as it Ever Was
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22
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13m
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Orange arete right of E. Rounded cranking up the arete past 2 manky BRs. Manky double BB belay.
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Giles Bradbury, Craig B. Martin 1984-09-22
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*
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Systems of Romance
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22
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13m
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2m right of SAIEW. Hard cranking (manky BR) then delicate moves past 2nd BR. Manky double BB.
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Hot Scott, Mike Meyers 1984
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*
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Joker Hysterical Face
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23
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13m
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10m right of SOR. Hard crank onto wall (manky BR) then thin and desperate up and slightly right (manky BRs) to cam belay.
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Mike Meyers, D. Haines 1984
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The descent gully splits the crag just here.
There are two routes marked PEE and UTB just right of the descent gully, they look short and worthless.
The following two routes are marginally better.
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Roast Possum
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13
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4m
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Short broken crack on right wall of gully.
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Defiant Deflaration
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16
|
10m
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7m right of RP. Up the flake/crack. Either rap off or traverse left to join RP.
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Craig B. Martin 1983
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The following two or three routes all have difficult undercut starts, and have different marked initials to their recorded names. F** knows!?
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Ode to an Orange
|
17
|
13m
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10m right of DD. Hard start then up crack and slab.
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Mike Meyers, D Haines 1983-09-11
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Stick It.
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18
|
13m
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3m right of OTAO. Up crack and wall.
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Mike Meyers, D. Haines 1983
|
There are more lines than documented routes but the climbing is fairly scrappy. There is a tiny hidden memorial plaque around here. It's a sketchy scramble to reach the next climbs, don't bother.
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Same Reality
|
17
|
13m
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1m left of PE. Up wall to overhanging blocks. 4 manky BRs in total, with double BB belay.
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HS
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Follows the obvious stepped flake and then god knows where. Same Reality probably shares ground.
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Unknown
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Plenty Enough
|
24
|
13m
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1m left of FE. Up past 4 BRs.
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Freck's Effort
|
8
|
10m
|
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Chimney.
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|
|
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* *
|
The Holy Hour
|
18
|
15m
|
|
|
Right of FE. Up the prominent fin, passing three manky BRs to blocks (cams) and cam belay.
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|
D. Haines, Mike Meyers 1984
|
|
* *
|
Horse Latitudes
|
20
|
15m
|
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|
3m right of HH. Up to roof (BR) and over into crack (small wire). Head straight up crack / seam (2 BRs) to move left and up to top.
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|
Mike Meyers, Hot Scott 1984
|
The following three routes are located a couple of corners right (east) of HL. There's no walk around access from HL, so to get to them, walk along the top of the cliff and find a plunging arete with a boulder sitting on top. Rap down the corner off a (manky) BB behind the boulder. All climbs start from a stance at the base of the rap.
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*
|
Head Muscle
|
21
|
15m
|
|
|
Traverse left past 2 FHs then up to 3rd FH. Follow seam (2 rusty BRs) then left and up.
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|
|
|
*
|
Mirth Muscle
|
20
|
12m
|
|
|
Traverse left to flake. Up this past 3 weathered BRs then right to BB or up easy slab above.
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|
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Benji the Upholstered Bat
|
19
|
10m
|
|
|
Often seen flying around Sydney gyms! Up just left of the corner, passing 3 rusty BRs. Belay off rap anchor.
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