Bangor

	5 minutes
	Shady most of the day
	A short but extensive playground

Introduction

A very popular crag located high above the Woronora River. Although only quite short, there are many easy to mid grade routes here, and with top ropes so easy to set up, it's a great beginner's area. The crag is also a popular bouldering spot, with particularly good bouldering on the undercut section underneath The Whorl and Dorothy May and also on the Killer's Kidneys wall. The crag tends to be very cold in winter, since it faces pretty much south and catches the wind that comes howling up the Woronora River. Bundy rebolted a whole swag of routes in 2009, hardware donated by the SRC rebolting fund.

History

In the early days, given how short the cliff is, most of the easier routes at Bangor were considered top-rope problems. The ethics of the day considered it poor form to bolt such short problems, so a small group of local climbers pursued the art of top-roping, including off the chockstone wedged halfway along the cliffline. Dave Humphries (Dr. Dave) got the bolts rolling during the early '80s. He experimented with loxons, dynabolts, even early versions of glue capsules but finally reverted to good old bashies, establishing a swathe of the crags classics, including: End of the Decade, Python and his business-generating Sports Injuries Clinic. It's fair to say that Dave very much led the way with a small group of locals, such as Peter Faill, Steve Turcsanyi, Dave Weekes, Peter Farkas, Glenn Short, a young Hayden Wallace and Rupert the original lunch-stealing slobbery dog all chipping in over the years. Fun in the shade and a cold beer on top of the cliff, watching the sunset over the Woronora River became the Bangor way. Attitudes changed a bit and by the end of the 80s all the old top-rope problems, and quite a few new harder ones, had sprouted protection and names. There are a few harder things at Bangor now, but the focus remains on light-hearted, sociable cragging. Bring the esky.

Access

Find Arunta Close in a street directory and get yourself there. Park at the end of the street, being careful not to block any driveways. If there are a few cars already here, please park further up the street and leave plenty of space for the local residents to park. Keep the local residents happy and we can keep the crags open. Wander down the fire trail between house numbers 11 and 12. Veer slightly right and head towards the river. Follow a pad to the main descent gully which involves a little bit of scrambling into a gully and is a wee bit tricky when laden with gear, lunch and your pet pooch. From time to time there is a fixed rope here. There is a second descent gully about 30m west and it also involves some downclimbing. An easy 3rd descent gully is 50m west, directly behind a white 2 story house with blue posts.

Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff.

These cool routes are at the far right side of crag (when facing crag)

	Arete Problem	V8
	A square cut arête 80m right of TW.
	Joe

Egg Rings	18	10m
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Very well protected but has no lower-off.

* *	The Whorl	16	13m
	At the far right hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked. A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double bolt belay.
	Dave Humphries, Peter Faill

*	Dorothy May	16	13m
	Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of TW. Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.
	Dave Humphries, Peter Faill

*	Reno	19	13m
	1 m left of DM. Desperate boulder or jump to rail. Original snappy coach screws were replaced 2016.
	Viona Young

There is a popular well chalked bouldering cave at the base of the crag here.

Lean Too	15	12m
The deep crack 1m left of DM. Looks much harder than 15!

Shire Riot	20	12m
The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.

	Karins Loose Stool	19
	Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.
	Mat Hutchins-Read, 2015

*	The Shire Republic	20	12m
	The line of rings up left of centre. Tricky rounded top out.

* *	A pinch and a punch	22	12m
	left side of wall. funky
	mikl

* *	Hobbit Nose	21	10m
	Nice climbing with a cool finish. Up buttress left of Shire Riot wall, left at 2nd bolt.
	mikl

Drew on Hobbit Nose

	jason's crack project
	project, needs cleaning, left of Shire Riot

*	A slimp and a slump	22	10m
	Two hard sections, wall 3m L of Hobbit Nose, and behind tree about 5m R of base of main descent gully
	Patrick Burr

* *	Kick Start	19	10m
	Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack (you can shove a high cam in to protect start) and nose on right to easy top out and rings (rap to preserve rope)
	mikl

The main descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.

* *	Sandstorm	20	11m
	Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start for then full tick then hard top out to rings well back.
	Jeff Crass

* *	Glitter	21	11m
	Coo trad wall. Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start.
	mikl

*	Bicycle wall	20	11m
	Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.
	mikl

*	Rainman	12	9m
	The low angled face 2m left of the descent gully. Good trad pro if you look. There are TR bolts.

*	NFM	21	8m
	5m left of R, just under arete. Marked. Up to RB then leftwards past two Ubolts to loweroff. Hard first move then easy top.

Killer's Kidneys	21	8m
Marked "KK". 3m left of NFM up to shared lower-off.
H. Wallace 1992

*	Pyromaniac	18	7m
	Starts 3m left of KK.Start left of 1st ring then up reachy wall to lower-off. Direct start is 21.
	Matt Portman, Neill Crabb

The next wall is well featured and very popular.

*	Dynamic Winter	20	10m
	On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. Marked. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. Double BBs.
	H. Wallace 1992

* *	Andrew's Bulge	15	11m
	A Sydney classic! Start marked with painted hand. 1m left of DW. Rebolted 2009. The original bulging Andrew during the first ascent, "Be the rock".
	Andrew (I guess) and Peter Faill

Get Tracked	14	10m
The crack 0.5m left of AB.
G. Quinn (solo) 1985

Side Tracked	10	10m
0.5m left of GT. Seam (small wires) with small thread at top.

*	Pitted Arete	16	10m
	Start as for ST. Up the crack then left up the right side of the rounded arete.
	Steve Turcsanyi 1987

Mars Apple	21	8m
1m left of PA. Marked T2. Desperate start. Rebolted 2009
Steve Turcsanyi 1987

Zulu Trainer	13	10m
1m left of MA. Nice to the ledge then doddle to top. New bolts 2009.
Steve Turcsanyi 1987

Mike's Photogenic Crack	12	10m
Corner crack left of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.
Mike (I guess)

Sports Injury Clinic	21+	10m
1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill

The climbs on the main wall get a bit confused from this point around to Python. My Girl and C are easy to locate (by the nice new bolts), but some of the others, who knows?

Tits and Bits	20	8m
1m left of SIC. 2 FHs.
P. Farkas 1989-07

Christmas Nuts	8	10m
1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.

*	Fixed Steps	19	10m
	The rounded arete 1m left of CN. Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs
	Steve Turcsanyi 1985

The following five climbs are on the huge block in front of the main wall.

*	Midway	13	8m
	The left hand side of the boulder as you face it. Up the juggy wall, hard start to anchors

*	Farway	13	8m
	Thw wall 4m L of Midway, up to anchors shared with Midway

Tilba Tilba	6	8m
On the side of the boulder facing the main wall. Mantle then up. Easy but no pro.

*	Voodoo Traverse	18	15m
	Start as for TT. Traverse right to second corner ( above the finish of Monkey Bars), then up.

*	Death of a Black Boy	22	8m
	On right side of big block above massacred black boy. Start as for Monkey Bars, out right through roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.
	H. Wallace 1992

* *	Another kind of rainbow	24	13m
	Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top.
	mikl

*	Neil's roof	21	10m
	Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct as for Felix (avoiding the major roof flake) then climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing.
	Neil Montieth 2017

* * *	The Three Sides Traverse	V3/4	18m
	On the lefthand end of the downhill face. Traverse right following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave.
	Nick Clow 2003-07

* *	Lucky's Roof	19	5m
	Also known as Monkey Bars. Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to the loweroffs, 19 with cairn start, 21 without (but a few people have damaged tendons on the first move)
	Luke Weatherstone 2002

* *	Felix	22	9m
	Out Lucky's roof to the second bolt then right and around lip and up wall to single Ubolt lower-off at the top
	mikl 2015

Back to the main wall.

* *	Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix	24	10m
	Battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Right of MG and left of the original GGG, at vertical seam. Technical! Finishes on shared lower off with Fixed Steps
	Jason Lammers 2010

*	My Girl	23	10m
	4m R of In Depth. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to giant U
	Trevor Cooper-Williams 1992-01-14

*	D	21	10m
	1m left of C. 2 FHs to 2RB lower off - Good
	Chris Wallace 1992

A Loving Hole	20	10m
Up wall on new RBs. Just right of corner crack. A little contrived but what did you expect?
H. Wallace 1992

In Depth	9	10m
Corner crack 0.25m left of ALH.

* * *	Arachnology for Kids Traverse	V4/5	9m
	Start as for ID. Traverse right to finish at arete of 'Fixed Steps'. Nick says "This boulder problem is a corker. It took quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 trips) from initially conceiving it, dabbling and then working on it to finally finishing off. I was so pleased with the quality of it in the end because the key sequence is both technical and sustained in difficulty."
	Nick Clow 2003-11-24

Python Direct	19+	10m
Just left of ID. 1 BR then runout to top.

*	Python	16	10m
	1m L of PD. 2 FHs up the arete to double bolt belay.

* *	Grandma's wheelchair direct	16	12m
	Righ side of cave about 2m L of python

*	Grandma's Wheelchair	16	10m
	4m left of P, on left hand side of cave. Up
	Dave Humphries

Get Walking	14	9m
Start as for GW but straight up.
Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988

Skulduggery	16	9m
2m left of GW at cave. Up crack then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.

	Flash as a rat	20
	Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. There's an old bolt on it, so the obvious offwidth finish has probably been done
	mikl

*	End of the Decade	20	11m
	Start below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. 2 FHs and optional cam on low angled headwall. Double BBs.
	Dave Humphries

*	End of the Century	22	10m
	A direct version of EOD past RBs to lower off. Good rock.
	Jason Lammers 2009

End of the Line	18	12m
Start as for GC, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to RB and up flake as for EotC. Some trad gear needed.
T. Meredith, D. Burgess 2011

*	Grotto Crack	17	9m
	Corner crack just left of EotD. Pleasant bridging up corner. 2 BRs out right or large cams.

Buzz Boys Beat	19	9m
1m left of GC. Up bulgy blocks, use crack on left at one point, lower off around to left
P. Farkas 1989

	Chicanery Crack	14
	Crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat. Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat

*	Zip	16	8m
	4m left of BBB. Deceptive start, then up easy wall to lower-off
	G. Quinn 1986

Unzip	17	10m
1m left of Z under roof. Boulder problem start under roof then up as for Z.

* * *	Marathon Man	21	12m
	Start up Zip, then left along lip, left under roof and over bulges. Shortest pumpfest in the shire
	Jeff Crass

Billabong	18	5m
5m left of U in middle of wall. Thin wall climbing past 1? BR.
G. Quinn 1986

The second descent gully reaches the base of the cliff here.

Ali	15	5m
The jam crack 2m left of the descent gully.

*	Racy	16	10m
	Around arete 10m L of Ali. Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and up R edge to lower off.
	Vanessa Peterson

*	Facy	21	10m
	Left side of scoop.
	mikl

Slobbery Dog	15	8m
Corner 12m left of Ali. A monument to Rupert, Peter Faill's black dog, who had a penchant for stealing climbers' lunches while they were on belay duty. If you have problems with the decent gullies, Rupert used to be able to run up and down them with ease. Peter Faill and Dave Humphries
Peter Faill and Dave Humphries

* * *	Starfish	24
	Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff.
	mikl 2018

Rockclimber's Waltz	12	7m
Marked. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.

*	Magic Sparkle	10	10m
	The track goes under an overhang, this starts on the boulder. Up and wander up slab to funky final friction finish.
	Lexi Law 2017

* *	Belly Bulge	21	10m
	Start on arete after walking under overhang, shared anchor with The Drum
	mikl

* *	The drum	16	10m
	Up this crack and past drummy hold
	Vanessa Peterson

Head Butte	16	6m
4m left of RW. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.