Alfords Point

	5 minutes
	Morning sun, then shade most of the day
	Short, easy access

Introduction

One of the larger cliffs in the Shire, with good rock quality and a scenic position perched above Great Moon Bay (Georges River). A day underneath the high frequency wires, on a cliff a little larger than the normal Shire stone, with easy access, makes for a good day out. The cliff comes into shade early so its not a bad spot to enjoy a summer's afternoon or a winter's morning.

History

This area was first known as a Scout abseiling hangout. Because of its weird access off the freeway it was ignored for many years by 'real' rockclimbers. In the early 1990's the area was visited by Chris Wallace, Dave Barnes and the growing crowd from the new local gym at the time, The Rocknasium. This is when many of the established routes were done.

Access

The crag is located on the eastern side of Alford's Point Rd, south of the Alford's Point Bridge. The new bridge and road works have changed access. Park in Maxwell Close and walk right (north) along the bike path along Alford's Point Rd for a couple of hundred meters until you see a thin concrete pillar 1m high in the bush with white and blue stickers, and extensive views out east over the river. The crag is below. There is an easy scramble down to the base at the southern end of the cliff (right hand, facing river). Sometimes there is a hermit living in the cave near "Green Frogs and Liver", he is not too scary so say hello! The crag is located within Georges River National Park.

Climbs described left to right (south to north), facing the cliff.

Green Frogs and Liver	18	6m
20m Left of main wall. 2 Ubolts to lower-off.
Shae Constantine 1994

Blackened Slab	16	10m
Random dark bolt about 10m left of main wall. Climb past 3 rings to shared lower-off with Runnel Wall.
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*	Runnel Wall	10	10m
	Start 2m R of Blackened Slab, step up right onto ledge then gain big ledge, left and up nose to shared lower-off. Belay practice setup possible at halfway ledge on 2 Ubolts
	mikl solo 2014

*	Iota	17	6
	start1 M left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny.
	mikl 2015 solo then retrobolted

*	Smidgeon	19	6
	Start as for McGuyver and up, move left to single bolt lower off for Iota
	mikl 2015 solo then retrobolted

MacGyver	16	8m
The climb - that was supposed to be a warm up, but didn't quite work out that way. Quite tricky for the grade and missing a clip could find you on the floor. Start on left side of short orange wall. Traverse right wards along the break then up the big flake. Continue to move right to anchors below big tree.
Bundy and Wade - 2014

Bee's Dick	23	10m
As per MacG, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.
Wade and Bundy - 2014

No Answers	23	6m
Start below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs.
Chris Wallace 1993

	Bundy's after work winter project		8m
	There are no holds so will need to wait to winter to try this one. Start up Suburbanitis to break then move left and up to lower offs.
	Bundy in winter time

* *	Suburbanitis	18	16m
	Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves past three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor. Was 16, but with inflation now 18.
	David Barnes 1993 (retrobolted)

* *	Brown Hornet	19	16m
	Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S. Was 15 until The Alfords Point Regrading Committee fixed that.
	Chris Wallace 1993

* *	Brother Sun	19	17m
	A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Lower-off anchor. Was originally led with one bolt.
	(retrobolted)

* *	SBB Link Up	18	18m
	A link-up chasing good protection and climbing on Suburbanitis, Brown Hornet and Brother Sun. Great climbing with even greater pro. Start at first bolt for S and head up and diagonally right with either cams in pockets or clip bolts. Up flake on BS and to lower-off anchors.
	Probably climbed as a variation in the 90's

* * *	Sister Moon	21	17m
	2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb. Lower-off anchor at top.
	(retrobolted)

* *	Cherry	21	15m
	Burly start 1 m right of SM, with a bit of a move near the top.
	Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, Jan 2013

*	Fabulous Muppet Show	17	5m
	The arete. 5 Ubolts to lower off. Avoid the desperate dyno start by coming in from the right up delicate corner.
	Shae Constantine 1994

*	Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start	23	14m
	Directly below FMS. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS.
	Doug Smith 1998

	Mad Bolter		7m
	Short roof climb through middle of small cave above FMS. 3 new Ubolts to lower off. Belay well, the ground is close. Has this been climbed?

Mrs Doubthold	20	7m
Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.
Jeff Crass 2014

A scramble up is possible here, further right the cliff gets bigger again.

Bumbly's First	14	8m
Corner and arete 4m L of 4 moves 3 bolts
Erwin Gamboa, 2014

*	Stumpy	21	8
	2 cool boulder problems, step left to shared anchor
	mikl 2016

*	4 moves 3 bolts	24	18m
	20m R of main wall is short wall with a crack on the left. Bolted line 3m R of crack. Up to ledge then onwards
	mikl 2014

*	Stretch Target	24	8m
	Start 2m R of 4 Moves 3 Bolts. Levitate up wall.
	mikl 2014

* *	Breaking Good	21	18m
	Trad climbing on Arapiles style breaks. Start in middle of orange wall, 3 finger to thin-hand cams in first break then easily to ledge and up wall behind. Boltholes have been drilled on this in strange places also.
	mikl law, Jeff Crass

* *	It's a wrap	18	15
	3m right of Breaking Good. Start off short person's cheating stone and up
	V Peterson 2016

* *	Gushing Shins	19	15m
	Start at thin seam 4m above the ground marked K (probably an old top-rope route), 6m right of Breaking Good, 40m R of main wall. Up seam and wall.
	Jeff Crass 2014

* *	Gushing Knees	19	15m
	Start 3m right of Gushing Shins, up and follow vague seam to shared lower-off with Gushing Shins
	Jeff Crass 2014

*	Necropolis Kidney	20	15m
	3m right of Gushing Shins. Short slab to shallow seam. Share lower-off with Viva la Papa
	Chris Wallace 1993

* *	Viva La Papa	19	15m
	Tricky slab, then super orange stone to overhang. Loweroff.
	David Barnes 1994 (retrobolted)

*	Lurch	20	15m
	Start 1m R of VLP and up till you can out a foot in Vintage Cuvee for a move
	mikl 2014

* *	Vintage Cuvée	16	15m
	Orange left facing corner some 50m R of the main wall. Easy start, into nice corner. Pop out right and up the nice headwall.

* *	Vintage Direct	24	15m
	Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Arapiles style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and big cams (fist) in the back of the cave before final bulge.
	mikl law 29/05/2014

* *	Sweet Charlotte	25	15m
	2 hard sections up wall 3m R of VC, shares a crimp at the start.
	Dave Barnes 1994

* *	Show Us Your Form	23	15m
	Start at tree 6m R of VC, up and thru roof
	David Barnes 1994

* *	Glamworm Roof	23	15m
	Weird outward facing move through roof, start as for Show Us Your Form for 5m then step right to seam.
	mikl 15-06-2014

	Roof project
	Start 3m R of SUYF

* *	Working from Home	23	15m
	Nice finish to Give Me Souls, from the 3rd bolt on GMS, step left and up, traverse lip and up to same lower-off.
	Bundy 2014

* *	Give Me Souls	23	15m
	Start in left side of big cave, 5m right of tree and SUYF. Up steeply left and on to the head wall.
	David Barnes 1994

* *	Roof Stalker	22	16m
	Hard start then up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RBs in the roof, and then up the headwall.

Ogawayama	23	15m
Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big (hard) move on big holds to easy dirty finish.
Bundy - 2014

Exploding V	23	15m
Not sure how the Shire grid bolting locals missed this, but Wade found himself a sweet line to bolt for his first ever FA. Then next one along in the cave. Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top.
Wade - 2014

* *	Sideline Jack	15	14m
	A long forgotten route now rejuvenated to become A Sydney Bumbly Classic! The line of rings at the right end of the cave, at the left side of some small trees against the wall. Up to cave slot and through steep and incredibly juggy terrain. 6 U-bolts to lower-off.
	David Barnes 1993

*	Japan15	18	12m
	Great latter day addition. Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges. Good double down this way with SJ
	Bundy - 2014

*	Soccer Mum	17	14m
	A steep wall, start 3m R of Sideline jack, at the right side of small trees against the wall. Watch out for Sodomy bush when lowering off.
	Vanessa Peterson 2014